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Posts posted by IcePrick
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Asking price doesn't seem unreasonable to me- hope you find a serious buyer.
One question- on the list of mods, "Factory Pro shift star" caught my attention. Haven't seen this mentioned before as an XX change, always thought GSXR's needed them. Was it really beneficial, would you do it again?
Mmmm, probably not. I had just done it on my F4 trackbike which was getting false nuetrals and it didn't help at all in the end. The Bird shifts better than a stock one, but you'd have to be pretty farkle happy to do it. Install is kind of tricky too.
Someone sent me this:
Am seriously interested in buying this and i will paying you the
asking price so consider me as your favorite buyer as i will like to
have some more pictures if you have them. I would be glad to pay for
it as soon as possible though i will not be available to come for an
inspection due to my flexible schedule. I will be paying you with my
PayPal Account because it's attached to my Bank Account and its safe
and very secure way to make payment online. If my mode of payment is
accepted kindly email me with the information below to proceed with
the payment.
1) What is the condition?
2) Are you the First Owner?
3) Your PayPal Email Address or send me an invoice
4) Your Picked Up Location Address
And if you don't have paypal you can easily setup one visit
www.paypal.com and get back to me with your paypal email address and
the full name you use to register,after the payment has gone through
my pick up agent will contact you and make a pick up arrangement with
you,i wont be able to call you the only means of communication is via
e-mail.
Regards
I didn't know you get scammed through paypal. I also don't see how this guy benefits from this?
They guy will probably paypal it linked to a credit card and then dispute the charge with the credit card company (not PayPal) and say it was unauthorized. I've heard of those disputes going on and taking awhile and the credit card company may be more lenient toward reversal then PayPal.
Those people don't want a bike and try to dispute a charge. They want money. You will never see a person, you will have already been scammed before the "pickup agent" is supposed to show up.
Think about why he wants the full name you registered with PayPal.
If you think there is a shred of legitimacy to the response, tell him to PayPal his "pickup agent" the money and have him put cash in your hand. He won't contact you again.
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Did you have headaches the first couple of weeks? I had to do an isolation diet to see what was messing with my liver enzymes (never did find out) and I was ~900-1200 calories a day on the prescription shakes. Headaches and weakness, they said "oh, yeah, that's normal". Water helped the worst of the hunger pangs. Smelling bread baking was torture.
If you can do that for 17 days in a row, could you do it 3 days and have a regular day of meals, rinse, repeat? Would that keep the weight down without surgery?
Congrats, either way. You really have to learn to think differently about food, and it's tough after being totally in love with it and eating with minimal felt consequence for decades. But it adds up.
Good luck!
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You funny guy.
I would love to have that bike, but six in the garage already draws regularly scheduled dark looks from my wife. I could get rid of one but, &4%((#...
Okay, I'm all right. Just completely lost my senses for a moment.
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OEM Honda Euro switch, right hand side. Headlight on/off for HID or whatever shenanigans.
Plug and play - worked without issue on my '97. Don't know if the slower years are wired differently.
Very good shape, but not showroom new. I can send pics if you need to see it.
I know some people are DIY-ing some nice ones, but if you don't want to mess with wiring, it's waiting for you for $50 plus actual shipping.
PayPal preferred, first PM gets it.
*edit*
Clear LED tail light for '99 and up. Can't tell the brand. Bought it from a member here, never installed it. $30 plus shipping.
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That's the XX I would have wanted if I knew what it needed when I bought mine. So, for someone that's never had an XX, they would look at the price and move on, not knowing that yours is what they will wind up with after six or so years of spending and experimenting to figure it out. For a guy who wrecked his XX, or someone coming back to the fold after a dalliance with a 14, this would be the ticket. Yeah, it's all the money, but it's very nicely done.
I would try Sport-Touring.net and even ADVRider.com, and as stated, be patient. My thought is, you will probably make more and move it more quickly by returning it to near-stock and parting out the high dollar stuff.
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Took it for a test ride tonight. The rear brake is weak, but that could be the used pads that came with the used eBay caliper I bought. No function issues whatsoever, though.
More unnerving, the 929/SP1 combination gave a weird feel on turn-in - it really wanted to turn in after it got off center, very "quick". Uncomfortably so. I don't have the lower fairing on yet, so I don't have a body height measurement. I have the top of the forks flush with the clipons, I thought that would be conservative.
I'm going to try removing the shim over the rear shock to slow the steering down a little.
Any thoughts?
The ZX throttle and switchgear is going to be too much of a hassle. I happened to glance at the SuperHawk as I was thinking, and it looks like that throttle and switchgear will be perfect. $44 later on eBay...
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A mounting ball with the 1/4-20 stud works perfectly. Need a 1/4 drive long extension to reach up through the steering tube to tighten the nut.
I'm hoping to get the throttle issue resolved today, maybe get an afternoon test ride in.
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I saw in your post that the lower stem you used was hitting the oil cooler. I haven't decided which bird to do it on, either the 97 or the 03, but the oil cooler is mounted differently on the 03, so maybe the 929/954 lower would work.
One reason I am thinking of using the 12/14 swingarm is it looks like the easier way to go in that it bolts right in using the xx hardware and 'only' requires a custom dog bone. it will also mean I won't have to machine anything to have rear brakes, and I like the look of the 12/14 swingarm. Having said that I am interested in the mod you did to the rear wheel and how the brake is working now.
Using the 10 wheels is an option butt it wouldn't be to save weight.
At the end of the day I am hoping to have something that looks factory with minimal welding and cutting.
The lower stem is hitting the cooler at almost full lock absent any steering stops. Steering stops will eliminate that, I'm just wondering if the RC stem will allow for a little more steering travel. I don't think it's an issue, really - stops will have to be fabbed either way. With Stan's install complete, it looks as if the stops on the RC have to be removed also so there's no savings/additional utility there. The 929 lower didn't require any shimming of bearings, but I'm not as precise as Stan
. But really, I don't see any interference with the 929 lower and SP1 upper.
The rear brake setup with the ZX10 wheel I have is bolt-on and uses stock Kawasaki shims - no machining. Really, there's nothing to do but bolt stuff up. I still don't have a road test, but it was silly simple.
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Offing all the Tumi stuff - you're not going straight on us, are you?
Get out of my bidding war!!!!!
Relax. Momma told me never to get in between a little tycoon and a metrosexual fashion statement he wants. :icon_snooty:
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Offing all the Tumi stuff - you're not going straight on us, are you?
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Works for me. Not sure if I'll like it, they always scream "gun" when I see people with them.
I'll let you know.
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No, thank YOU!
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Always wanted to try one. Done.
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I can't vouch for the RC51 lower, as I have the 929/954 lower with the RC51 (SP1) upper. Looking at the line diagrams and eBay pictures, I don't see why the SP1 lower wouldn't work. Steering stops will have to be fabbed no matter what. One might be able to use shorter forks with the 929/954 upper as it has a "gull wing" shape. 1000RR forks would be purty...
I used the 14 front brake lines and master. The line from the master might be a bit stretched, but that may be my aftermarket bar configuration. If you go with that, you may have to make accommodations for the throttle and switchgear - I'm dealing with that now. The XX cable exit from the throttle grip housing interferes with the 14's brake lever travel.
I re-used the XX clutch master. The ZX would work, I'm told, but I don't know if there would be fitment issues at the bars if you use something aftermarket. The XX master has marginal interference on the aftermarket bars, but it's going to be fine.
A ZX-10 fender works and looks good with an adapter - if you're interested, I'll dig through receipts and let you know where I got the adapter and what year the 10 fender needs to be. I may have posted it previously...
The ZX-10 front wheel bolts up to the 14 forks with the 14 spacers. I like the looks of the 10 wheels, and they are a little lighter than the 14 wheels. I don't know if they will have issues with the weight of the XX. Someone will let the forum know if I find out the hard way that they don't. Obviously, none of this is an issue if you use the 14 wheels and fender. Just a thought, as the 10 wheels were readily available on eBay.
Using the 10 rear wheel keeps you from having to change the swingarm, shock, dogbone, chain, etc. To work, it needs the 12 sprocket, a specific year 10 caliper/bracket, and some stock Kwak wheel shims. I have not road tested the rear brake mount yet, but it *looks* like it will work without issues. I can get the specifics if you're interested.
Still looking for a place to mount the horn. Not a problem, there's plenty of room, I just don't feel like tearing the whole thing apart *again* to drill and tap a spot on the lower. I'll have to re-wire the 14 kill/run/start switchgear to plug in to the XX harness, and figure out a way to run the 14 throttle cables to the XX carbs.
Ask away... I'll take pics or measurements if you want/need them.
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Congrats! A shame to see it go, especially so cheap. But it's down the road, and now you have an upgrade fund...
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Messing around with clipon adjustment. The XX euro switch is problematic, with the way the cables exit the housing interfering with the brake lever travel.
I ordered a ZX throttle, cables, and switch on eBay to see if that solves it.
The clipon position I finally got seems perfect - better than VFR bars - and no tank or fairing interference. I thought that was going to be a difficult compromise, but there's actually a lot of area for adjustment that won't interfere with either.
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http://knoxville.craigslist.org/mcy/3139025721.html
Not mine, don't know the guy, but I can take a look if anyone wants...
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Oh, you suck.
That was my dream bike when I was in the service. What a beauty.
If I didn't have 7 bikes in the garage, I would be all over this.
you must keep your bike level on an even number.. now you must either sell one, or buy this one or you will have bad luck in the next 15 minutes after reading this.
Is a sweet bike..
Actually, one of them isn't mine... doing some work on it for a friend. Maybe when it's gone...
I think my wife would notice, though. "How long are you going to be working on that one?" "Oh, it's got a LOT wrong with it... little intermittent things, I need to ride it a lot to diagnose them..."
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Oh, you suck.
That was my dream bike when I was in the service. What a beauty.
If I didn't have 7 bikes in the garage, I would be all over this.
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Kill Switch
That made me think of the other kill switches.
Sidestand switch may have failed, or how about the neutral safety switch, and is there a bank sensor that kills the engine in a tip over?
Not with my bike right now and I can't remember - will it roll over with the sidestand, kill, or neutral safety open? I don't think so... No bank sensor on a '97 so I'm not familiar.
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Pepes towing to the rescue
Bummer. Let's hope for something simple.
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My only concern with them is if they will tighten up enough to stay put. I'm tempted to get them adjusted the way I want them and have them welded into position (on all except the fork tubes, duh).
Mine came with "permanent" threadlocker. If yours didn't, get some red loctite and apply it after you get the bars set where you want them -- at each joint remove one bolt at a time, apply loctite, snug it up, then do the other bolt and torque them down. With permanent threadlocker you don't have to worry about the bolts coming loose. At my old job we once got some bolts with threadlocker pre-applied that was supposed to be the same strength as blue loctite . . . it wasn't. We didn't find out until we tried to remove them after they'd set. The bolts were in threaded inserts in 1/8 aluminum sheet and most of the time either the bolt head would snap off, or the nutserts would spin in place before the threadlocker let go. You can heat up the bolts with a soldering iron to release the loctite if you need to (a trick we didn't find out until far too late).
I'm not so much worried about the bolts staying tight, it's the small amount of clamping/surface area versus the amount of leverage you have on the bars. Even torqued pretty hard, it seems like it could still move. Not wanting to honk on those little threads too much.
If you have put some miles down with no issues, though, I'll trust your results.
Ready for ZXXX
in The Garage
Posted
With a little rewiring, the SuperHawk switchgear and throttle work perfectly and look stock.
I arrived at the same conclusion on the rear brake master. I'll have to look at the options for that, but it is ride-able in the interim. I rode the 990ADV the other day, and after being on the SuperHawk as a commuter and the XX with the incorrect master, the 990 seemed like it had power brakes. I'd love to have that on the XX.
I forgot that when the Ohlins went in the back, it was quite tall enough and didn't need a shim. So I just raised the front, and the steering seems perfect - I could maybe even drop it a bit. I managed to get a good bar position, nice and comfy.
Rides good on the highway - still messing with the suspension. Haven't seen any interference issues with the 190 rear or the brake setup.
Mostly done - looks like I'll be able to ride an XX to an XX meet again!!!