Redbird
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Posts posted by Redbird
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34 minutes ago, Toynutt said:
I installed a Hel kit on my '03. If memory serves me right, I am pretty sure it required me to remove all of the hardlines on the bike and replace them with full length runs of hose. It was a bit if a hassle, but relatively doable. A bike lift is very helpful in the install. I think ( not 100% sure ), the Spiegler kit lets you keep the hard lines.
That rings a bell and I think I installed that kit on Peter's (BirdieXX, good dude) bike. Was there some sort of group buy back around then?
I know I did at least one of the rubber line only replacement kits but I can't remember whose bike it was.
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14 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
This is often in my mind, seems many people don't consider it or are just stuck on spewing their ignorance, defending themselves, attacking others, etc. I've gotten shit on other forums for challenging or correcting stupid stuff and it seems that few understand that leaving these poisonous crumbs around for someone to pick up isn't good.
Yeah, it's something I wasn't always conscious of. One of the downfalls of being around here for so long is I've posted some pretty stupid shit in the last 15 years and it's all still here.
And because I was instrumental in derailing this thread, I'll try to help get it back on track.
Slapper, years ago I helped a couple members install the Speigler kit mentioned earlier in this thread on their bikes. It replaces all the rubber lines and leaves the hard lines in place, I think the Hel kit was similar (come to think of it, one of the ones I did might have been Hel). If either kit is still available that would be the way to go if you want to keep the LBS, IMO.
I delinked mine and that might be a better option just for simplicity's sake at this point if you can live without the LBS. All you'll need is three lines and a drill, I think instructions and pics are still up in the useful threads section. If not, let me know and I can steer you in the right direction.
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3 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:
Did you notice any difference with this fluid on your track bike?
I honestly couldn't say, as the fluid swap was in conjunction with an upgrade to monoblock calipers and Vesrah RJL pads. I can say that those brakes were a thing of beauty once I had them set up...one finger stoppies and pretty much zero fade. Radial Brembo master probably helped a little, too.
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3 hours ago, srideaux said:
Forgive me gentleman, I was only sharing my personal experience and preferences with the LBC and synthetic Brake fluid, I am now 14 years into it with no regrets.
I defer to your Expert opinion.
First and foremost, I'll apologize for my tone last night. I was up past my bedtime against my will and reacted poorly to what I felt was a condescending tone to your post telling me to "spend more time on research" and the "everything you read on the internet" comment. I'm supposed to be one of the grownups in the room so I should probably not be so quick to wade into these little purse swinging matches.
Secondly, I've never claimed to be an expert and none of what I've posted has been my opinion. What I've posted are facts and I can post links all day to reputable sources to prove it.
quick google search-
http://www.advancepetro.com/differentbrakefluid.htm
http://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/brake-fluid/can-i-use-dot-5
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid
https://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/professoroverdrive/answer/414
I'm also not some random dude who's good at using google and arguing on the internet. I did my homework on this subject about a decade ago when I briefly considered switching one of my track bikes over to Dot 5. That idea got tossed pretty quick and I ended up going with Motul RFB 660, flushed it twice a year. I think I still have an unopened bottle of that stuff kicking around my garage somewhere, it's probably garbage.
Now, you might be asking yourself why I'm being such an asshole about this. The reason is this is a searchable technical/reference forum and the the preference is to not have bad or questionable advice laying around unchallenged for someone to stumble across weeks, months or years from now. Suggesting someone swap over to Dot 5 (not Dot 5.1, not "synthetic", but silicone based brake fluid, which is what Dot 5 is) without covering the rather large pitfalls is bad advice, and that is my opinion.
I've provided factual basis for that opinion. If your opinion differs, I welcome any debate on the subject. But if your argument is going to be limited to unsupported and smarmy "you're wrong, educate yourself" comments, you won't hear any more from me, I've said my piece.
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1 hour ago, srideaux said:
Redbird....exactly the opposite is true, just because you read it on the internet does not make it so. spend more time on research
LOL.
Either you're a troll, or you've been talking about Dot 5.1 this whole time.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_3
QuoteFluids such as DOT 3 are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere. This degrades the fluid's performance, and if allowed to accumulate over a period of time, can drastically reduce its boiling point.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5
QuoteDOT 5 is a silicone-based brake fluid (contains at least 70% by weight of a diorgano polysiloxane.
Unlike polyethylene glycol based fluids, Dot 5 is hydrophobic. An advantage over other forms of brake fluid is that silicone has a more stable viscosity index over a wider temperature range. Another property is that it does not damage paint.[citation needed]
DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with anti-lock brake systems. DOT 5 brake fluid absorbs a small amount of air requiring care when bleeding the system of air.
Get your shit straight before you talk someone into doing something stupid.
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12 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:
I always thought the water dropped to the lowest point with dot 3 or 4.
Nope, Dot 3/4 both absorb water, google "hygroscopic". Any moisture present will drop the overall boiling point of the fluid, but it will not collect in one place. It will with Dot 5
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+1 to Superhawk,
Dot 5 is a bad idea on any bike that doesn't see regular flush and fills of the system. Good stuff performance-wise, boiling point, etc., but it's inability to absorb water is not a plus on your typical street bike, quite the opposite. Putting any water in the system all in one place, possibly the caliper, is a very bad idea. The only way to avoid this with Dot 5 is a strict regimen of fluid replacement.
Oh, and if you do decide to go Dot 5, it is incompatible with Dot 3 (or 4), so you'd need to make sure you got every trace of the old fluid out of the system. Good luck with that.
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Assuming you're talking strength training/weight lifting, the best pre-workout supplement is a decent meal 45 minutes to an hour before you start. Carbs are good thing here, get your blood sugar up.
If you're feeling run down on a regular basis, stimulants are absolutely NOT the answer.
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14 hours ago, DBLXX said:
Far.
What's will all the water spots? A quick rinse with distilled water would have prevented that embarrassing mess.
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Let's see a pic from underneath and see how far your neurosis goes.
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IIRC, the right fork reflector is mounts with the same bolt(s?) that holds that mess of valving/lines on the right fork, so I could see it needing to come off and subsequently being installed wrong.
Left caliper rotating is as designed, as Superhawk said.
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If you're looking to alter damping you're going to have to rebuild the shim stack. This is more advanced level stuff and why after many years of tweaking my own suspension I decided that what the pros charge is usually well worth the money.
That said, if you wanna take a run at it, you're probably going to need different shims, hopefully those are among the parts returned to you. Be aware that building an appropriate shim stack for a given application isn't really a "look up the instructions" type of thing. For an amateur it's going to involve some experimentation and likely pulling and disassembling the forks multiple times. Also, it wouldn't surprise me a bit if disassembling an Ohlins damper cartridge requires special tools.
For reference- http://www.shimrestackor.com/
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I don't know what that is but my kid does and she wants it. You should have my address, let me know if you don't.
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1 hour ago, redxxrdr said:
Also, Todd went a different route and installed a sidecar.
Byrdman's efforts were for Todd and the mods were done to his 900RR. There's video of him riding it in a parking lot around here somewhere. It did work and he was able to start and stop unaided in that controlled environment, but it was too sketchy to be trusted on public roads. But then again, Todd's disability might be more extreme that the original poster's here.
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Send a PM to Byrdman. Not that he's the fabricator you want, but he's the guy here with "landing leg" experience. He set up a 900RR for another board member and I was lucky enough to be there for some of the testing. It worked but I don't believe it ever reached the point it was reliable/user friendly enough for use on the street by an actual disabled person.
Not to discourage you, but the bottom line is designing, building, installing and testing a streetable system from scratch is going to be a pretty advanced engineering and fabrication project. You're going to need either deep pockets, a very handy dude who likes you a lot, or possibly both. Regardless, I wish you the best of the luck with your project.
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18 hours ago, XXitanium said:
Yeah, and I' thinking it would be plenty accurate for making any ne'er-do-well think twice about coming any farther into my domicile. Twenty-five feet-ish...
Even with a 3" barrel this thing is more accurate than most pistols, zero issues there. The match grade bull barrel and an incredible trigger take care of that.
Just buy it so you can quit thinking about it and start shooting it
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13 hours ago, redxxrdr said:
My first thought Is tire or tires.
With 30k miles, you should be on at least your third front and fourth rear.
Have YOU replaced tires since you owned it?
It might help to post make, and date code of the tires.
Next, chain. You are probably 1/2 way through your second chain.
Get close and personal with it. Move each link seperately. Just one binding link will shake the bike like a bad tire.
Try pulling the chain rearward from the rear sprocket. A good chain will show little gap between the chain and sprocket.
Do this, then rotate the tire a little and try again.
Chains stretch in sections. If you find a area that really pulls away from the sprocket, then you probably found the problem.
You could also have loose head bearings, worn wheel bearings, a sticking fork, etc.
But my experience on many bikes lean toward tires and chains.
And if a chain, spend the money on a quality O-X chain. They really are smoother, and last longer.
Nailed it, tires and chain. 95% of the time it's one or the other.
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Just took the neighbor, who's been on the fence for months, shooting today and he took a pass. He was sorely tempted until he shot the TRP. Now he's shopping full size 1911's in .45, can't say I blame him.
So...I need this thing gone. $750 shipped to your FFL.or $700 FTF in IL and it's yours.
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That's exactly what that thing needs, do it.
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On 1/17/2017 at 10:12 AM, Redbird said:
Lunges are already in the rotation.
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I have a pair of Lee Parks. Leather like butter, unbelievably comfortable, fit like, well...you get the idea. Great set of gloves, the only drawback is limited impact protection compared to more modern designs. Mine did mainly touring/casual duty for that reason.
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1 hour ago, Aunt Zero said:
Petcock self-sealing?
I had a jerk mechanic sabotage my petcock to cover for another guy who dumped crap in my tank and claimed I got bad gas. In the time I had to wait for a replacement petcock to arrive, the gravity feed overflowed my carbs and filled the engine pistons...which then drained into the engine block. This did no damage, but I had to completely drain the engine and put in fresh oil after fixing the petcock. The petcock was vacuum driven, so removing a key spring kept it from closing when shut down.
If it's got an FPR it's injected and there's no petcock.
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I have a 2002 undamaged frame with a clear title here if someone is looking to piece something together.
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Yeah, a friend talked me into shipping the bodywork to the recipient of Terry's bike out in WA. He's had it for a few weeks.
Stainless brake lines
in The Garage
Posted
Heh, I wonder how much stuff that's passed through my hands is now sitting in your garage. There's that monoblock/brembo setup mention earlier in the thread (along with the rest of that motorcycle), a good chunk of Hugo's old bike, and I think you ended up with some of the pieces of my '01.