Redbird
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Posts posted by Redbird
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Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part# for the '99 and up air cleaner?
17210-MAT-EO1
That "O" between the E and 1 could be a "D". The fiche is hard to read and I don't want to order the wrong friggen part.
Thanks,
Tim
edit- nevermind, that's it. Found confirmation elsewhere :grin:
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That's OK, we can take our bikes apart without worrying about spraying 80 psi worth of gas all over.
If that's your best argument for carbs over FI, I'll keep my '01, thank you very much :grin: . Besides, since when is spraying 80 psi of gas all over a bad thing? :twisted:
Do chicks still dig scars even when they're 3rd degree burns on your face? :???:
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I blacked all mine out too :grin: .
Had the bike apart for some powdercoating work and I took all the bolts and pushed 'em through a piece of cardboard and spraypainted them.
They're holding up reasonably well, though after about 14,500 miles and several fairing removals they're starting to look a bit rough on closer inspection. Mine's red, BTW- I like the black and red look :grin:
See if I can find a pic.........
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Sorry, can't help with the thead pitch (mine's a 49 state model, or I'd be happy to check for you).
If it were me, I'd just go down to the hardware store and pick up 5 or six bolts the looked close, and go home and try 'em one at a time. Seems easier that dealing with sourcing and shipping an O2 sensor. My local hardware store has a nice selection of metric stuff, a lot of it in stainless. I suppose you might not be so lucky.
Good luck..
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It's just a threaded hole, isn't it? Is just throwing an appropriately sized bolt in there not an option?
And, no, sorry I can't help with an O2 sensor..... :sad:
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No Cody for you, Hugo? Bummer, but it's nice to see someone's still here :grin:
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Cody, and the pre-hoot get together down south. Half of 'em are already on the road, lucky bastards. I've got a feeling it's gonna be a quiet weekend around here :sad:
BTW- strange topic for the garage :???:
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One more thing, it'd be worth checking the throttle cables for excessive free play, a sloppy throttle can make the above mentioned jerkyness even worse.
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Damn, I was hoping you'd figure it out, not that I was any help :sad: .
The whole thing did have me kinda curious, though. Congrats on getting it sorted, either way.
Enjoy your new ride :grin:
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If you've got DSL, I'd highly recommend checking out the "not automatic" thread. For the best way to change plugs, filter and oil, look on the main site, I believe it's all in the FAQ section. Chain slack should be 'bout 1 1/4".
I'll dig out my manual and see if they have a web address or something in the book.
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I had to remove the stock bar weight (the one inside the bar) when I installed my Throttlemeister, no noticable increase in vibes. This bike is so damn smooth I've never given any thought to attemting to dampen any vibes in the bars. Are you having a problem with this, or just bored? :grin:
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So I come back from mowing the lawn and it seems my entertainment has fizzled. Dammit, that had promise.
BTW- Hugo, as a retard, I resent some of your comments and demand an apology.
edit- I may have spoken too soon. That popcorn still around?
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If you're going to keep it, get it patched from the inside. Riding long term on a plugged tire is asking for trouble. Many years ago I had a plug let go when I was cruising along at about 90mph with a buddy on the back (young and stupid, those were the days :twisted: ). Not fun :shock:
This comes up every so often, and there's several opinions. I myself would replace it. It's not that I have money to burn on new rubber, it's just piece of mind on a bike as fast and powerful as the XX. But if you rarely see triple digits, a proper patch, inside the tire would probably be fine.
Just my $.02
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but I don't thrash my bike very hard either.
This from a guy with scuffs on his lowers- yeah, right :poke: :grin:
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There's a theaded rod with a locknut at the bottom of the secondary master cylinder, ajusting the length of the rod should be easily accomplished using that- keep in mind there's a locknut that may be partially hidden by the rubber boot. Sounds like you may need to shorten it, but that's just a guess.
You're going to need to at least partially dismount the SMC to do this, as the "U" shaped mounting bracket (at the bottom) will need to spin.
Lemme know if you'got any more questions on the secondary master cylinder, it's sitting on my desk in front of me, so I've got a pretty good view :grin:
PS- did you check the pivot bearing mounted lower on the fork? Binding down there might cause what you're describing.
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It's not losing the top end that'd bug me, I can count the times I've been over 165 on one...okay, maybe two... hands. Seriously, I don't go that fast that often for it to be a consideration. Stopping every 130-140 miles for gas, that'd get old pretty quick.
Besides, with stock gearing, I've got a chance of topping Jerry out in third gear :grin: :grin: . Gonna have to try that, too Bad jerry's never in this section, he won't even know he's being abused over here..........
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Thanks for the input, guys :grin:
I'm a little short of 15k, gonna go ahead and order a new OEM front with the chain. The rear is showing pretty much no sign of wear, should be good for at least one more chain. I had considered going down a tooth up front, but don't want to give up the milage.
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It's possible newer stock says that, but it'd be news to me. I've just finished off some stuff I had stockpiled from over a year ago, nothing about energy conserving on it. You're talking about Mobil1 15w-50 right?
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Mobil1 15w-50 is not energy conserving. The lighter weights are, and you'd be right to stay away from them, bad for wet clutches.
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Let's see, I need a proper "Dave type" response for this... :idea: ..I've got it-
If it's up your ass it'll spin :grin:
:grin: Where's the "no" vote, anyway?
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I'm going to be doing my chain soon (first time on this bike) - those of you who already have, did you you replace the front sprocket? My rear is good to go, but I can't see the front without taking it apart.
So my question is this- what kind of condition did you guys find the front in when you did the chain, and should I just go ahead and order one when I get the chain?
Thanks
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Cheers to you, Phil! :grin:
Sounds worse than it is. You can do it in a day no problem, assuming you've bought a ready made kit. Well worth the effort.
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That works great until the damper rod starts turning with the bolt, which seems to happen about half the time in my experience (yes, even with the spring in and the fork compressed
). If the damper rod starts spinning, you're gonna need an impact wrench. If you've got one, cool, if you don't, you may not want to start down that road. Just my $.02 :grin: -
Anyone done it?
Yes, several guys here, including myself, have de-linked
How about a How-ToRemove all the bodywork, including the gas tank. Pull out the 15 miles of lines, valves, slave cylinders and such that is the stock system. Install the bracket on the front fork that replaces the slave cylinder, install and bleed the six lines that make up the new system. And replacing the front master cylinder with a larger bore unit is optional, I did it, and I believe everyone here who has de-linked has found this nessecary. Some say it ain't, to each his own.
Is the mod reversible?Theoretically, yes, nothing is damaged removing the stock system, just don't ask me to help you bleed 'em if you decide put it back on.......... :razz:
Air filter part #-
in The Garage
Posted
Duh! :razz:
Been so long since I've been on the main site, it didn't even occur to me.
Thanks-