Redbird
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Posts posted by Redbird
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The rear is hydrualically linked to the front, so you have to bleed the line that connects them.
Bleeding the brakes is covered by about six pages in the service manual, but basically what you need to do is bleed between the rear master and the front calipers, center bleed nipple, right one first. Give that a shot :grin: .
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it was not a corbin, the rear section (seat cowl) was open underneath.
Are you saying this is why you think it wasn't a Corbin? The Corbins are open underneath.
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Try these:
Oil Flame War #1
Oil Flame War #2
Holy shit, I had no idea the old EZboard was still up. Just spent twenty or so minutes taking a stroll down memory lane.
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You could email them to me, if you'd be so kind
. If anybody else is interested, say so, and I'll post them- assuming Colin would be willing to shoot them to me in an email.
sneroofing@warpnet.net
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Colin, do you have any pics of the machined caliper pieces? This wasn't available when I de-linked, and I'm considering upgrading from those little hoses
Did you have a problem with the screws pissing a little brake fluid?Yes, I did. I had to tighten them way more than you should have to to get them to stop weeping fluid. 6000 mile later and all is well, though
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The 5/8" front master is a foriegn market part (non-U.S.), a couple of members here helped me source one from Japan, sorry but I've lost track of the part#. I think Seb sells 'em for around $160 USD, if I remember correctly, and he can probably help with a part# if you can source it elsewhere.
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Don, this is the same kit I have, it's gonna run you around $360-$370, I think.
Pace, how does your front lever feel? I rode mine for around 1500 miles with the stock master, but couldn't get used to the extra travel, so ended up going with a 5/8 bore master cylinder, which improved things greatly.
I had a chance recently to ride an XX that was still linked, and it served to remind me that I made the right choice de-linking.
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Leverskinz? Had a set on my last bike that looked just like that.
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I use Meguire's three step shit once or twice a year (clean/polish/wax), Plexus in between. I know everybody here loves the Honda shit, but I've tried it, and prefer the Plexus. Less residue, wipes off and polishes up easier.
You can prolly guess what color my bike is :razz:
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My neighbor has an 01 XX ( I think? Titanium?)
Mine's an '01, Jerry. Titanium would be '00. It'd look good on you
C'mon, you know you want to :grin:
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Geez, Jer, you coulda just asked me :???: . I've got a TBR catalog around here somewhere. Call me.......
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Wouldn't ajust anything, no, but it'd snug things up to make sure your axle won't move at all. You obviously can't torque them before the axle's tightened, you'd just move them and throw the chain out of whack. So you get them where you want them, tighten the axle, then tighten the ajusters. That's how I do mine, anyway
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Just an FYI, I talked to Mac this weekend and he's got a set of ME Z4s that are about toast (well, the back anyway) at 3K. Of course, he rides like a bat out of hell, and used 'em for his Cody trip. Riding styles vary greatly, and your milage may vary.............
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Is it just me or does the chain losen up rather quickly if the axle is only tourqed to 69?
I've never had a problem. Are you tightening up the 8mm ajusters after you're done torqing the axle? I seem to recall someone having a problem like you're decribing and that being the culprit....it's been awhile, though, and I might be wrong :???:
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If the front tire is off, you're half done. Just unbolt all the caliper mounts and LBS crap from the sliders (don't leave the calipers hanging by the lines, string 'em up). Then remove that useless little clip at the top of the forks, then the bars, loosen two pinchbolts on each fork and slide them down. Done
Installation is pretty straightforward as well, but I'm short on time at the moment. Go ahead and jump in, it's an easy job..... :grin:
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Get 'em powdercoated, that's what I did to mine. It's pretty inexpensive, and looks good. I don't have any closeups, or I'd post them for you.
Just keep in mind the clutch cover is two pieces. You'll need to take it apart, remove the rubber piece between them and coat them seperately, and make sure they don't coat the threads for the oil cap and dipstick.
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I've checked mine with a GPS unit, as have several others here. Mine's off 6-7% at 100mph, and it gets worse as you go faster. Fastest I've had mine was 177 indicated (it had more, I didn't), which was 163 corrected according to the GPS.
All the magazines that tested this shit out of this bike never saw the happy side of 180. With a full system and some tuning, maybe pull the mirrors off, you might get close to 190, but 200? Not a chance.
Sorry....... :sad:
On another note, no stock bike made 2000 or later is going to do more than 186mph (300kph, it's a Euro thing). They're all resticted now, the speed wars are over.
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The funny thing is he thought his radar was broken!
It was. This bike won't break 200 without serious modification. And for anyone who's gonna post how close they've been to 200, remember the speedo is way off at those speeds.
I'm still undecided on the look of the bike. I'm all for a little customization, but not sure all the pieces fit on this one. Gonna go back a few times and see if it grows on me.........
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Where are you from?
It's finally happening, the mighty Northman is being forgotten :sad: . You really should check in more, Chris
.My axle is hollow, '01 U.S. model.
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What did you do to your pipes?
Sent 'em to Jet-Hot for ceramic coating. I got a bug up my ass and decided to black everything out (it's winter thing, some of you understand). They (Jet-Hot) seemed to be the best option. 14k and a year and a half later, they're holding up great. Cost around $140, with a good chunk of that being shipping.
And Darryl, who asked you, anyway? :poke: :grin:
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Installed right, the LP looks pretty sweet, IMO. Trick is bending those metal tabs in the right place to hold it nice and tight. Keep at it, I'm sure you'll like the results-
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Can anybody post the schematic for '99 and up XXs here? I've got a manual here, but am trying to work on something with a guy about 100 miles away. He's on dialup or I'd just have him go to "NOT automatic" and get it there.....anyway, any help would be appreciated
Thanks,
Tim
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I had a similar problem when the bike was close to new, a little WD-40 in the lock mechanism cleared it up.
I remember someone suggesting dry graphite lube (apparently available at a locksmith shop) after I had my problem. Makes more sense, wouldn't attract crap like WD-40, though I've had no further problems.
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According to the manual the service limit is .502 inches.
Need Help Bleeding Brakes- PLEASE
in The Garage
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That confused me a bit, as there's four you'll need to hit when bleeding the back, two on the rear caliper, and one each on the front. Sorry I wasn't more help :sad: