Redbird
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Posts posted by Redbird
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Or sometimes it's bank angle sensor. I think Joe's right in this case.
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Sorry, my bad :sad:
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Easy enough to check- have you measured your sag?
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I'm confused too :???: . Why change the oil weight that much with the stock valving? This is just a spring swap, no valves?
Seems it would be waaay underdamped with 2.5 weight in there
But any suggestion what weight oil to put in them? Do I have to get it from honda?The answer to that question IMO, would be 10w, which is stock. You don't have to buy it from Honda, any 10w fork oil will do.
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Is there a reason why you want to switch to synthetic? Are you going to race the bike?
FIRE IN THE HOLE! :50cal: :flame:
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Can't explain the blown fuse, which probably caused your first incident, but the second overheating- you were probably low on coolant ("large pool of anti-freeze in the street"). The system only holds around a gallon, so boiling off/spilling any signifigant amount is going to be have an big effect on the cooling sytem's effectiveness.
Fill it up again, bleed it properly (per Dave :razz: ), and see how it does.
Bigger problem may be figuring out why your fuse blew in the first place.
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Well...you did ride the short bus in school !
Only reason you know that is because your mom was driving it.
I recommended adding straight to the system because you might not end up using all the coolant you mix it with. More accurate to put the four oz. right in the bike, 'cause you know the total capacity of the cooling system.
But that's just me........ :wink:
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Four ounces take care of the whole system, even if you don't end up adding that much new mix (instructions say 1oz. per quart).
I have no idea how much a capful might be.........
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Caber- you need to put the URL between the "img" thingies, this is it-
http://ca.geocities.com/caberxx2000/aimg_1401.jpg
Good pic, might need resizing, but I wouldn't complain
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You can take "anality" only just so far.
Does that mean that I'm wasting my time torqing my valve caps on?
:razz: :grin: :razz:
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I think a lot of guys don't bother with that. I'm kinda anal, so I did-
You can pull the "key" out of the new one and use it to turn and lock the old one before removal. Keep in mind when you pull the key out of the new CCT, it will release the spring and extend the tensioner, so you'll have to "rewind" it before installation. This adds about three minutes to the whole process.
You can also use the diagram in the manual to fabricate your own key.
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'cause notching the washers is even easier, bonehead.
Moderators- I think his avatar is oversized. Should probably be removed.
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What Chris said, and a zip tip around the fork leg makes this gravy, even solo :cool:
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This requires removing the right fairing, but works really well-
Remove the overflow hose from the nipple by the radiator cap, hold it level with the line on the resevoir tank (this is about even with the forwardmost bolt on the tailpiece). pour in your mix until it come out the hose, then put it back together.
You may even be able to do this withour pulling the fairing. I've never tried, I've seemed to have it off everytime it's come up.
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He's already ordered a Mototek undertail, Mac.
Bastard apparently has more money than god- he's already spent more than me on mods, and he's only had the thing for a month :???:
:grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
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Yeah, you'll be bleeding the center piston more than the line with the center valves, but you've gotta do it. Should only be six, though.
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Which bleeders are used to bleed the brakes when there's only 4 hoses to worry about?
If you're talking about the bleed valves, all of them. Four up front, two in back. A vacuum bleeder makes this about a 15 minute job, if you don't have one, I'd suggest making the $30 investment- well worth the money.
How on earth do I get all (or most) of the old fluid out of those lines before I start removing them?You don't. Just install some small balloons with rubber bands at the end of any open lines, this does a great job of keeping the fluid off of everything while you yank out the lines (this is advice from Seb when I did mine, works good).
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We checked your sag, Jer, yer just fine
.I'm pretty sure your new ones wereslightly longer than stock, because if you recall, we used the stock spacers first just for the hell of it and got lucky with the sag- no ajustments needed.
Quit worrying and go ride.
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ASSHOLE? Big words comming from a computer! Here is another tuff guy!
Just callin' it like I see it, buddy- nothing "tuff" about that.
Besides calling you an asshole, I brought up a few other points. Would you care to address any of those, or are we just going to degenerate into pure name calling here? I also called you a liar, and cited several examples of your work- any answer to that besides "go fuck yourself"?
Tell you what, you post proof positive that you've paid Jim, and I'll type up the most eloquent apology you've ever seen for calling you an asshole. You will, however, still be a liar. There's too much proof of that for me to ever apologize.
Unless you choose to respond in some intelligent manner (unlikely, and perhaps impossible, I'm afraid), I'm done with this thread. You can run up your post count calling me names all you want, I don't have the time for this shit.
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No Jim tell the truth!
So what's the truth? Jim's been around here for awhile, he's got no reason to badmouth you- other than other than the fact you ripped him off for a hugger.
So tell us, what's the truth?
The truth is you're a bullshitting little squid that's been caught in a few lies in you brief time here.
215mph?- understandable mistake if you're too stupid to know how far off your speedo is, especially after re-gearing, but you had to embelish a bit by throwing in a cop with a radar gun. Pure bullshit.
26,000 invested? Give me a fuckin' break, more bullshit.
163HP? Typo my ass, more bullshit.
You're a fucking liar, Pay Jim his money and leave us alone, asshole.
A lot of haters in hereGuess you just bring out the best in people.
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Carlos, it was the longer model, ordered from a salvage yard by part number supplied on the main site. I also know it was the longer model 'cause they sent me the wrong (short) one first.
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Has anybody done the 900 shock on an 01 or later?
I had one bolted into my '01 for about half an hour. It made a funny wooshing noise and I sold it to some Canadian, RaceTech spring and all. Never rode it, but it bolted right in and was the same length as the stocker.
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The resevoir should catch any overflow, shouldn't it? Definitely check out your fan, and make sure the line from the radiator (right by the cap, little tube) to the resevoir (under the seat) is connected and in good shape.
Engine Ice
in The Garage
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The watterwetter route is cheaper, as it's an additive (use a small amount) rather than a replacment for everything in you cooling system. I dropped 5-15 degrees with the watterwetter. The hotter the motor gets the more it seems to help.
Let us know how the engine ice performs, it might be worth the extra $$
Draining the system-
-One drain bolt on the bottom of the waterpump (remove left fairing)
-One drain bolt on the left side front of the cylinder block (fairing's already off, cool
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-Drain the resevoir under the seat/gas tank. Just pull off the small hose mounted by the radiator cap (remove right fairing) and toss it in a bucket.