Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Redbird

Senior Management
  • Posts

    19,012
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    92

Posts posted by Redbird

  1. Same thing when I replaced mine, it started life about 1/3 of the way into the green. My sprockets are both OEM.

    Bugged me when I installed it, but I got over it. Never occured to me that it'll be a problem later in the chain's life, but I guess I have a similar problem in my future :sad: .

    Now I'm gonna go count my links..........

  2. When you tighten the ajuster nuts, are you turning them out, or in?

    Turning them in will allow a small amout of travel inward (looser chain), Turning them out would only allow the wheel to move back (tighter chain, not likely)

    I always snug them up outward after tightening the axle, never had a problem.

    BTW- check your PM.....

  3. I think Obby would be our resident expert on polishing, though I'm not sure if he did his own work or not. Maybe drop him a PM. Don (Bigboy) also knows a thing or two about it, I believe.

    A good start would be a cloth wheel mounted on a drill and the appropriate polishing compounds, but I'm sure there's more knowledgable guys here who can point you in the right direction soon.......

    PS- sandpaper does work, but that's definitely the labor intensive route

  4. It's www.321ignition.co.uk I think you're talking about. Nice kit, currently installed on my bike.

    The TSR bracket is trick, though, even if a bit spendy. Rear caliper will take two lines right from the master to the two fittings on the caliper. Running the lines should be fairly simple once you've got the bracket.

  5. Hmmm.. I use Maxima chain wax and do not seem to have this problem

    Ditto. You're either over applying the stuff, or not letting it set up- like Rich said.

    I'd start with a plastic putty knife and then go to a strong degreaser, like undiluted Simple Green. I agree with Conq as well, WD-40 does take the stuff off pretty good.

  6. Catch local wildlife, soak them in it and turn them loose. They will spread the oil over a larger area, lessening the enviromental impact. Birds are best, but don't soak their wings or their effectiveness at speading the oil is greatly diminished.

    Think globally..........

  7. At this point, I'd blame it on the low milage on your motor. My milage was shit (always under 30mpg) until 4-5k, at which point it improved to low to mid 30s, average.

    Also keep in mind the low fuel light comes on way early. My '01 typically has at least a gallon and a half left when that thing starts blinking.

  8. Spacers on top of the springs, with a shop magnet or even a coat hanger it's a breeze to pull out the springs once you've pulled the shims.

    Getting the spacer length right is the only slightly hard part, as you have to cut the spacers to length. Post your weight and what springs you're getting and someone can probably get you in the ballpark for spacer length.

  9. If everthing's all firm as far as the lever and pedal, you may have just been getting some air sucked into the hose from around where the clear vacuum line attached to the bleed valve. Were they real fine (small) bubbles?

    I've always found it easier to leave the system full of fluid, attach the vacuum pump and suck out the old stuff while topping off the resevoir with new, never letting any air into the system in the first place. Just keep pulling the old crap out until it runs clear and new. Little late for that tip now, I realize, but maybe next time it'll help.

  10. once i got all the brake fluid out, before i started all this bleeding

    Just so I'm clear on this- did you drain the whole system entirely of brake fluid?

    If you could be a little clearer about "couldn't get the bubbles out". Is there no bubbles leaving the bleeder, or do they just keep coming? How's the pedal feel?

  11. Rich, the front tire needs to rotate to activate the secondary master on the fork, so your stationary test won't tell you much about the front activating the rear.

    Just squeezing the front lever isn't going to send any fluid to the rear, it's more complex than that. Do you have a manual?

  12. Nevermind :roll:

    I went to pull the cap and check it once the bike had cooled down, it was about 1/8 of a turn from completely locked down. Don't know why this hasn't been a problem in the last two or three thousand miles since I last had it off, but it seems to be the logical suspect now.

    Why is it everytime there's a problem with my bike it turns out to be my own fault? Fuckin' Honda.....you'd think it'd give me something to fix every so often without making me look like a jackass :???:

  13. So I mount my new MEZ4 for the trip out east and decide to go scrub it in, don't have much time so I head to the local Cineplex parking lot to do some figure eights and such (it's Illinois, feel my pain).

    A fifteen minute romp around here to warm the tires up, then about twenty minutes of dicking around at the lot at 20-30 mph, first gear, then half a mile home. I park the bike, take of my gear, and then all of the sudden- gurgle, gurgle, hiss- steam comes rolling off the bike and I have about a pint of water on my garage floor.

    I turn the key back on, temp reads 220. Pull the fairing off, it came from the overflow on the resevoir. Start the bike back up, idle it for five or ten minutes- temps hover around 215, won't go any higher once the fan is running, and it won't repeat it's misbehavior. It's about 70 degrees out, but I don't think that's a factor- I've seen 248 on this thing without any boil over.

    So what the hell? Bad radiator cap?

    Figures it's three business day before neXXt- anybody have a spare cap they're not using? Or any other ideas what this might be?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use