Redbird
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Posts posted by Redbird
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Good choice, but don't expect much longevity out of them.
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Pr3 are plenty sticky depending on what you are looking for out of them. Your average mix of riding they will serve you well.
I wouldn't do a track day on them though.
Depends on what you expect out of a track day!
I would much rather spend a day on the track on Pilot Road III's than not get on the track at all!
There are a few of us that have ridden JenningsGP track on PR3's - ride the Bird to the track, tape up lights, do over 150 miles on the track, remove tape, ride the Bird home all on Pilot Road III's.
Not competitive with the dedicated track bikes but still brings a smile from ear to ear at the end of the day. There has only been one "off" while riding a Bird at JenningsGP but was missing a foot! That is another whole story!
Jennings is a bit of a special case when it comes to tracks- the grip there is insane and it's not all torn to shit by cars. Not that you couldn't do a trackday elsewhere on PR3's, but you'd probably find yourself dialing it back a notch or two.
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I think it was Anna who said that a Ducati clutch sounded like two skeletons fornicating in a rubush bin
Chas,
Your shop has to pull the clutch slave cylinder to get to the front sprocket. A good shop would have cleaned the clutch rod while there.
I remove my wind screen when changing brake and clutch fluids . It makes it easier to get to everything.
And a tool suggestion. Find a JiS Japan Industry standard ( I think) Philips screwdriver. Mine were made by Vessel, ordered online. Two Philips , two straight, about $18.00 a few years back. The correct screwdriver will really help remove tight screws without stripping.
Right now it sounds like my brain cells bouncing around wondering how the fuck I've been wrenching so long without knowing about JIS screws. I've beat my self up wondering why a screwdriver doesn't fit right a bunch of times and have even ground the tips of drivers down to get a better fit which helps some. As soon as I googled it I realized that I never questioned the identifying dot on Jap screws nor made the connection between the dot and slipping screwdrivers. The dot tells you it's a JIS screw and not a phillips. I'll be shopping this morning!
+1, how the hell did I never come across this tidbit before? Thanks for the tip, no pun intended.
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The Maverick 88 can't use Mossberg forends and the safeties are located in different places, so the kits are probably a no go for Mavericks.
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That is all kinds of badass right there.
Too bad I have a Maverick 88...
I have the same gun. I've shot it maybe 50 times total, not really a shotgun guy. That didn't stop me from pricing 870's when I saw this, though.
I have issues.
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Will you ship to Canada?
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Someone is having fun with the tags, I see.
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Damn, that's tempting, but I should probably get the one in my garage running before I buy another.
I'm sure you'll get your quick sale at that price.
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Remember, we are in For Sale page, not the Pub.
This. I know Zero is the sometimes collective chew toy of the forum, but there's actual rules in the FS section. He's cut his price in half and offered the proceeds to the Human Fund and you guys are still shitting all over him.
Mike, let me know if you want me to clean this thread up.
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I'd offer him $1K less than what he's asking...
And he'll sell it to someone else. I seriously can't understand how you've ever managed to buy a used vehicle with your "standards".
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My aftermarket - not sure, but it seems to be really rock hard.
I've been on the Hurricane all week. It's set way softer and there is section about two miles long with frost heaved on the way to work. The Hurricane goes over that five times better.
The bird is like an F250 with nothing loading the springs.
Most of the time its not a deal, but that one stretch of road is horrible.
What brand aftermarket and what adjustments do you have?
Regardless of the answers to that, first step is check you sag, as spring preload is going to be adjustable on any aftermarket shock and too much preload will cause a harsh ride. You're a big fucker, right? That means you may also be undersprung, which could cause similar issues.
First step is still check your sag.
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Rich, I have the kid's retired phones- one Bionic and one Motorola Droid Razr, I think? They're slow as hell and a little glitchy but functioned when retired a month or two ago. Both would be a huge step down from the S4, but either is yours for the asking.
If you want me to ship one there may be a small delay, as the kids are in FL and I'll have to contact them to make sure they don't have anything important still on them before I wiped and shipped.
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Bare rifles, used, are listed at around $900 on gunbroker. Not a lot of action/bids, but they all seem to be at that price point or above.
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Just did some digging around, and I was wrong, that rifle is worth more than I thought. That's still an expensive scope, but it appears the rifle is easily worth more.
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Well, that scope is worth as much or more than the rifle and the bipod is another $100+, retail. Don't know that market that well, but I'd start somewhere up around a grand with the glass. It'd still be a hell of a deal at $800, IMO. At $600 if I were in CT I would have bought it already and the last thing I need is another gun.
You'd probably be better off separating the scope and gun.
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That's a screaming deal with that scope and bipod. I'm not even in the market and I'm wishing I were closer.
Let me know if you'd be willing to sell that bipod separately and what model it is if you are.
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The European market XX's had slightly different switch clusters. They include an on/off switch for the headlight on the right cluster, popular with guys running HID's. The left has a flash to pass button, IIRC.
Keep in mind this doesn't mean I'm not a fag.
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Joe is correct, as usual. It's a bit of a project, Phillip.
Let me know if that housing is going to end up for sale, LOL..
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Before you start buying parts hook up voltmeter to the running bike ( to the battery ) and check out what is actually going on in the electric department.
That's going to be difficult at this point.
Then, dead, no nothing. Dashboard out, nothing reacting when key is turned.
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Check the fuses, don't forget the one that's sorta hidden on the left side of the battery- removing the rear cowl makes access much easier on that one.
If you popped a fuse, it's time to start looking for a short.
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I took my brake lever off, put it halfway inside the hole of my receiver hitch, and bent it with a large pipe.
I suppose you could get real fancy-pants and take it to a welder or machine shop to have it done all precise and shit, too.
Hold up a second there, you lowered your pegs?
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Will the bolt not turn at all, or is is spinning with no effect? If the later, what Joe said above. I've done a few sets of XX forks and about half the time the damper assembly will decide to spin with the bolt. A bit of pressure on the assembly and the impact wrench have always done the trick. You'll probably have to rig up a long enough 3/8" drive 6mm allen tool. I sacrificed a 6mm socket and allen wrench for this specific purpose years ago.
If the bolt is simply stuck, I'd try a breaker bar or something I have a little more control over before going to the impact wrench. You're still probably going to need to source or make a tool long enough to reach through that hole.
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Does it fit-up to this?:
http://www.giviusa.com/my-motorcycle/honda/cbr1100xx-97-03/y158-wingrack-fitting-kit-detail
Yes. That case will mount right up on any Monokey compatible rack.
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This is how I do mine:
Sometimes I think you knock that thing over every once in a while just for the photo op.
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Experiment in tire mounting
in The Garage
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14" steel car rim bolted to a sturdy bench with a split piece of garden hose to cover the lip, a bead breaker of unknown manufacture (purcahsed from the Aerostitch catalog many moons ago), tire irons and a Marc Parnes balancer here. I've changed a balanced a lot of tires with that setup. I went through the purpose made rim protectors pretty quickly and started just using plastic water bottles folded in half. Works great and you just toss them in the recycling bin when they're toast.