sykotek-xx
-
Posts
1,262 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by sykotek-xx
-
-
I started to do the same thing on 1 of the 6 holes on each muffler, but the "ffftt" sound that you are talking about made me think that it was a muffler with a hole in it - imagine. So, I plugged the hole. Maybe the trick is to drill all of the holes like you did and allow all of the air to escape through the 1/2 holes?
The more I opened it up, the less apparrent the 'ffftt' noise was. It's gone now. My CCT and clutch rattling is louder.
Will this cause any damage internally to the engine? Thanks.
Shouldn't. ymmv.
-
wierdo metallic
I'm offended.
-
Sound Clip:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve.humins...t_3feetback.mp3
So per the other thread I had punched about a 1.25" hole through the two baffles (solid and perf'd) accessible thru the exit opening of the stock pipes. Made some difference, but hardly anything noticable.
I decided that stock pipes are cheap enough to replace if I totally fuck them up, so I broke out the drill. A 3/8" bit fit cleanly in the six holes around the end of the stock pipe. I drilled. All twelve holes.
Started it up, and damn. Much better. Smoooooth tone. Not obnixous, but definitely much louder than before.
There was, however, the slight "hiss hiss hiss" or "ffft ffft ffft" sound of the air becoming turbulent thru the new holes.
So I grabbed the drill again. This time I angled the bit as far to either side of each hole I had already drilled as I could, and basically elongated all twelve holes into ovals comprised of three holes each. Didn't touch the outer shell, so visibly it's still only six holes per side. Following me?
Again, big improvement. Not much more volume, but it put a big dent in the noise I mentioned above.
Still knowing I could do better, I upped the drill from 3/8 to 1/2". This required enlarging the factory holes on the outer shell of the pipe. I drilled through all twelve holes, outer shell then thru the baffle.
Now we're talking. The additional area gave the gas enough room to escape without building so much pressure (and making the ffft ffft ffft noise).
Still looks stock, my holes are just bigger than yours now.
Sounds fucking awesome. I find it hard to shift out of 4th gear now because I am listening to the exhaust note.
To sum up, if you're looking for some sound, don't be afriad to drill.
-
IMO a battery tender is for extended storage periods. A bike sitting for 1 week....it won't help.
In the winter though....it has always helped me with cold starts.
It's not necessary, but having it on the intelligent charger (not just a trickle or constant 1 amp) will only help the battery.
My HID's will go "strobe effect" for a second on startup if I don't leave the bike on the charger, even for as short as a week or 10 days. On the tender, they always stay on with out the flicker. So it does make a measurable difference.
Should put less wear on your stator/regulator if the battery is always at 100%. Not much but some.
-
I drilled.
I used a hole saw with an extension bar and cut a hole about the diameter of the pipe.
The sound was mellow but louder - throaty but not loud.
I then drilled 6 holes each side through the existing "holes" at the back of the stock cans.
The sound was much improved but not excessively loud. You can feel a pulse at each hole.
The exhust note sounds like you are doing alot more RPM than actual. Like a V12?
Under engine brake, there is a great burble that I love going through town or just to amuse myself.
Did you get funny hising or 'tick'tick' from the six holes at the rear?
-
I pulled all the plugs out adn found #1 and #4 fouled and gas soaked. I think there is still gas in those two cylinders because of how wet the two plugs were. #2 and #3 were fine,(I'm gonna change them anyway), Looks like #1 and #4 injectors got stuck open. I'm gonna send all injectors out to be sonic cleaned and flow tested. Any easy way to get that gas out of those two cylinders? I don't really want to leave it in there if it is alot then foul up the new plugs. Suggestions????
Thanx,
Vic
I could be wrong but I think one ign coil runs cyl 1 & 4 and the other does 2 & 3. It is more likely that the coil went bad, therefore not igniting the gas in those 2 cyls, than both injectors getting stuck open simultaneously.
-
I just did mine. I used this:
http://www.bondo.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=318
Stripped the entire wheels, will repaint the centers.
Front wheel. sprayed it, started wrinkling in 60 seconds. I gave it about 5 or 10 minutes then hit it with the pressure washer, came 100% clean, with a bright shine on the machined lip of the wheels. Spokes and center of the wheel are the textured aluminum and a darker grey but still immaculate.
Rear wheel, sprayed it, same wrinkling, hit it with the pressure washer and it left a bunch of paint/powdercoat behind, especially in the textured area. Even on the lip, there was about 10% left behind.
Gave it a second shot with the stripper and hit it with a scotchpad sponge and some gloves. This got the rims/dish area 100% clean, but it was nowhere near as shiny as the front wheel. Much greyer, duller aluminum. So my rear wheel was like what blackhawkXX descibed, duller requiring polishing for a shime, where the front was what most of you encountered, shiny as hell right after stripping it.
The two wheels were night and day as far as what they looked like under the paint and how hard the paint was to get off.
Anyway, I have both the wheels polished up to a good shine now, while I wait on my tires. It's nice, becuase instead of rushing it, I've been going out to the garage every night for an hour or so and hitting them with polishing compound, no rush. I'm expecting the tires Friday, so Thursday morning I am going to mask and repaint the center sections, then clear the whole wheel with rattle can clear.
Maybe when I have more $$ over the winter, I'll pull the wheels, restrip/repolish/repaint and have them clear powdercoated.
-
You can coat the inside of the panels with spray on bedliner or undercoating. A little heavier but should last forever.
-
Hey Guys,
I was thinking of streamlining the rear end a little on my '97 Bird and was thinking of replacing the rear turn signal with amber medium sized cat eyes in the rear cowl.
I was looking over my service manual and it does not appear to be hard in removing the cowl, or rear turn signals or accessing wires.
Has anyone done this?
Anything I should know about?
Also, once the rear signals are removed, do you have any suggestions for plugging or filling the holes in the rear fender so it does not look like a prize fighter with a couple of teeth missing? :icon_think:
That's inhumane, and you'll never get them to light up.....
Some of the smaller lights get hard to see up on those vents.
-
My low beam goes into strobe light mode when I start up for a few seconds if the batt is low. If I keep the bike on the tender, it's fine.
-
Here is a pick of my Bird with the old Mototech first version undertail and the Pyramid hugger
John01XX
I wish my bird was red.
Nice bike.
-
Is there someone out thier that can put their bike on a center stand in 1st gear engine off and let me know how much back and forth movement there is buy moving the tire buy hand back and forth :icon_pray: thanks. P.S. with chain adjusted
A lot.
Thanks for your smart answer
Smart, and right.
Wheel turns about 1/8 revolution from one end of tightness to the other.
-
Must be that dude from the killboy pic.
-
WD-40
in The Garage
I use WD to clean the chain first. Bike on center stand in 2nd gear at idle, spray the chain until it drips. Then let it all fling off. A little throttle helps for this.
Then hit it with the chain lube.
Been working for me for 10 years now.
-
OK so just did my first commute (or opened it up) with the modded pipes. There is a significant difference at wide open throttle. It is not loud, it just sounds a lot better.
Also I noticed the cans are a lot cooler now after my 60 mile trip.
Lastly, and this is a reach, but it seems to keep the engine a bit cooler. I didn't get over 185 degrees and most of the trip was fluctuating between 176 and 177 degrees, this is the 'hotter' (and faster) FI bike.
Speaking of fluctuations, an asian man goes to the bank to exchange some yen. The teller takes the transaction.
Next week he goes back and performs the same transaction, but gets back a little less cash. He inquires and is told it's "fluctuations".
Irate, he storms out, and at the door turns back and yells "Fluc you americans too".
Sorry.....
OK so just to clarify, you guys forced something down the center hole of the stock pipes - right down a far as the feed into the baffle, this then means you effectively have a straight through system, is this correct, how much force did you use, I'd be scared of damaging something doing such an irrreversable act ?
Yeah, I first drilled about six or eight 3/8" holes per side, then when I wasn't happy with that I drove the pipe through both baffles. If you shine a flashlight into the oultlet and look now you can see right through both of them.
I used a 4 pound hand sledge to drive the pipe through. Did not take much force at all with the holes drilled first.
Stock pipes are cheap on ebay if you break something...
-
OK so just did my first commute (or opened it up) with the modded pipes. There is a significant difference at wide open throttle. It is not loud, it just sounds a lot better.
Also I noticed the cans are a lot cooler now after my 60 mile trip.
Lastly, and this is a reach, but it seems to keep the engine a bit cooler. I didn't get over 185 degrees and most of the trip was fluctuating between 176 and 177 degrees, this is the 'hotter' (and faster) FI bike.
Speaking of fluctuations, an asian man goes to the bank to exchange some yen. The teller takes the transaction.
Next week he goes back and performs the same transaction, but gets back a little less cash. He inquires and is told it's "fluctuations".
Irate, he storms out, and at the door turns back and yells "Fluc you americans too".
Sorry.....
-
You guys are all liars. Or easliy amused.
Read this, then went out to the garage. First tried about four or five holes thru both baffles. Didn't hear a difference. So I found a 1" iron pipe in the corner of the garage, and pounded it clear through both baffles in both pipes with a four pound sledge. Started it up expecting loudness, but it barely sounds any different. There is a hint of an exhaust note now, but barely more audible than stock.
Man I really don't want to tell the wife I need $500 for microns.
-
1500 miles on the current (sic) Pilot Power and it's toast. Plenty in the middle but the sides are bald.
You're leaning too much, try to drive straighter.
(Straight is a tough concept for this board all around though....)
-
1.21 Giggawatts.What the hell is a giggawatt???
-
I rode this past winter on this bike more than I have on any other bike, and I've owned a Shadow Tourer and another Shadow 1100, both with huge touring windshields and canvas lowers on the crash bars. The XX has awesome wind protection for a sport bike.
That said, first thing first, get a hooded fleece and put it on under your heavy leather jacket. Put up the hood and put your helmet on over it. This makes a huge difference in keeping you warm, keeps the draft from going up your neck and the fleece will just help you keep warmer overall.
For pants, all I ever needed was a pair of jeans with a heavy pair of (sorry got them for free) Harley Davidson leather full chaps. These things totally block out the wind and I had no discomfort at all riding a any temp this winter. I rode as far down as the low twenties and teens, 60-70 miles at a clip at near midnight.
Last but not least you NEED a decent pair of gloves. A trick I learned (forget where) that helps enormously in the cold is to get a box of latex gloves, and wear them under your riding gloves. Keeps the wind off your skin if it makes it thru the leather, and keeps the heat inside the glove more efficiently. If you're going to go with one electircal accessory, make it heated grips. It's the one part of you that gets blasted by wind with just about no protection on the XX.
The above is what works for me.
-
So I've been thinking. You know those kick ass low center exhausts on the new GSXRs? What if I wanted to put one on the Bird?
Two Bros and Micron are making slip-ons and my question is, if the inlet/outlets match up and I can make everything fit; is there any reason that cannister would F anything up more than any other?
Is there somekind of MAJOR difference between cannister internals that couldn't be sorted out on a PC?
Granted, I haven't gone too far into investigating, so this may be an impossible dream at this point.
Thoughts? Am I making sense here?
Furious
If it will bolt up and the engine displacement is close, it should not give you any major performance headaches.
Be sure to post pics.
-
You can push start a stone dead CARB bike, but if the bike is FI and is totally dead, you won't get it going because you will have no fuel pressure.
not quite correct mate - depends on how much your mates want to help you push or how long the hill is.
The alternator turns with the engine - turn the engine using the back wheel for long enough and you'll prime the pump AND turn it over with enough left to fire the plugs. The pump will run on bugger all volts and only runs for a second or two on my machine. Would take longer with a perfectly dead battery (if such a thing existed in practise) because of the electrical drain on it, but it could be done if you needed it.
This is true.
But it would take a hell of a push like you said.
-
First of all, does anyone have the data on the rear front/front rear brake distribution, can't see it in the manual.
Secondly I was surprised to see that the feed from the front to rear caliper activates 2 pistons and the main rear foot pedal only one, wouldn't this have been better the other way round ? can it be changed
Also can the rear foot pedal be adjusted, I find it a bit high for my footwear
Guessing here....
I think it's set up that way because most riders most of the time use the hand brake only. When the foot brake is used, it is usually in conjunction with the hand brake, not the other way around. So it makes more sense to set it up the way it is. Again, just a guess.
Not sure if the pedal is adjustable but most bikes have a turnbuckle or adjustable link between the pedal and the master cyl. I have never looked.
-
You can push start a stone dead CARB bike, but if the bike is FI and is totally dead, you won't get it going because you will have no fuel pressure.
At the bike-a-thon, I still had power, just not enough to crank over. When I turned the key on I heard the pump prime up, and was able to push it fast enough myself, sitting on the seat, to dump the clutch in 2nd and start it up.
BlackBiatch Exhaust
in The Garage
Posted
General Rule:
4-2-1 makes more power. 4-2-2 looks better (my opinion).