sykotek-xx

215 is not out of the ordinary. 235 is up there but depending on conditions it's reasonable. On the topic, anyone notice how damn small the fan is compared to the radiator. You could easily fit another one side by side if you shifted the factory one over. Also the fan shrouding does not completely cover the radiator if I remember right (might not) thus not cooling the entire radiator, so it seems the stock fan is inadequately sized and inefficently mounted.

The increased fuel consumption could very well be the result of inspired driving with the "new" exhaust. There should also be a lot of stuff blowing out of the system after the drilling. That is what I originally thought, I was definitely twisting more and shifting less with the new noise. However I made two tanks worth of really docile runs, and both of them still had me hitting "reserve" (blinking fuel light) at 150-160 instead of the usual 190. Even when I romped on it with the pipes in stock form I never got mileage that bad. Now it is all better. I pulled the pipes and shook most or all of the shit out of them after I drilled them. I was paraniod about some reverse rogue exhaust pulse pulling stainless steel drill shavings into the cylinders. Really. :icon_duh: I know.

Allright, now try this on for size.... I disconnected the battery overnight hoping for a miracle. Reconnected in the morning, filled up the tank and I'm right back at 90 miles to the first 1/8 marker disappearing. Also the black smoke puffs are completely gone when I rev it in neutral. Does the ECM 'learn' or recalibrate itself? Or am I just nuckin futs?

One more small difference was the windscreen was raised slightly in '01 to give a little more wind protection. It has a small "bubble" built into it. Oh BTW, +1 on the candy red being about 15 mph faster. K Think that's what he meant by 'pop up' windshield there.

maybe I need a K&N to open up the 'in' side. I thought I read a K&N made pretty much no difference in air flow on these bikes, is that right?

I didn't think 03 was the only year with the digi dash... could be wrong, would not be the first time.

Getting about 150-160 miles before the reserve light blinks now, was a consisitent 190-195 before I put six 9/16 holes in the rear baffle and a 1.25" hols thru the center of each stock pipe. Sound and look is exaclty what I want so I want to retune and keep running these drilled pipes, but I would like some MPG (and likely performance) back. I do not notice any drop off in power by the way vs. stock ... What are the odds I'll be able to use a predefined slip-on map in the PCIII? How much tweaking will probably be necessary to retune for the drilled stockers? I get puffs of black smoke (rich) if I goose the throttle in neutral, never used to happen, so she's definitely gone rich. Also, why is it that these FI XX's defy all common logic and go rich when the exhaust is opened up, via slip on or other method?

^^^ Funny. Which ones?

Fuel mileage has gone to shit since I started drilling, but I have been shifting a lot less less too. I need to do a controlled mpg test.

It has the same sound as the CF slip-on Microns on Airborne's bird, but not as loud. p.s. - got 1500 miles on those Continental Attack's you see in the pics, LOVE THEM!!!!!!!!!! $227 shipped from tireexpress.com. 1500 miles eh.. thats a pair of tires a weekend steve....???? No, I meant 1500 miles so far. Better get me at least 8K. Here's a sound clip of what the pipes sound like right now. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve.humins...t-3feetback.mp3

Just upped the holes to 9/16". Sounds even better now. I think it's running rich now. Getting small puffs of black smoke if I rev it in neutral. Cans don't seem much if any blacker than normal. Would a PCIII make an improvement at this point?

Yup mine has a double dot from the factory. And don't worry they start to rattle too.

Any way to up the rear preload without the spanner wrenches? Any ideas?

probably most significant is that the FI tanks have the fuel pump in them.

Just did this. Bike is much quieter, if I pull in the clutch, it is silent except the exhaust note. Just another thought, seems like it might work... If you just pull the one bolt that holds on the panel bracket over the CCT, you can get to it pretty good leaving the side cowl on. Take out the factory bolt in the center, and using a thin flathead, just lightly tighten down the tensioner. Perhaps the problem is insufficient spring tension to push the plunger against the cam chain guide, and just setting it down a bit with a screwdriver might quiet it down without actually removing the tensioner. Just light light pressure, not enought to put too much tension on the chain and wear the guide.

Para45, Yes, I think the road camber had something to do with it, but I also think the axle misalignment compounded the problem. I have owned six bikes over the last 10 years and I've never had a tire do that before. Joe, that tire in the pic was the one that went 8500 with the misaligned axle. The new conti is now wearing dead center. (edit - just noticed you said front tire, I still have it, I will check it when I get outside later.) The right side adjuster was 1/8" (actually closer to 3/16") ahead of the left side adjuster if I remember right (think I do). Made sense to me, that this would cause the bike to naturally pull right, causing me to constantly and subconciously correct to the left. Don't get me wrong, I was happy with 8640 miles out of the stock tire, but I wasn not expecting that lopsided wear pattern, which was not evident to the eye until the tire started to lose it's grooves. Depending on how crooked it is.... If the wheel is off center, it will cause the bike to turn. To maintain a straight line, you will have to constantly fight that turn with opposite lean. Might be too little to notice. My last tire's wear band was a little shifted to the left. Never thought anytihng of it until it started to bald like this at 8500 miles: New continental started doing the same thing (highway wear band shifted about 3/8" to the left.) I also noticed, that more often that not I found that I felt the bike had the slightest left lean in the straights. I checked alignment by using an accurate ruler to measure the distance from the end of the swingarm to the end of the adjuster, they were off by about 1/8". I lined them up and the wear bar is now perfectly on center and the bike feels like it's finally standing straight. Do you think that the camber of the road could have anything to do with the wear being of to the left, because as you guys ride on the right hand side of the road and the kerbside lane in particular usually slopes to the kerb would that not mean in an exaggerated sense there would be more tyre contact on the left of centre :icon_think: The reason I mention this is that over the years with a 78 and 79 F100 I have always found that they track very slightly to the left - only really noticable with no hands on the wheel :icon_nono: ( As we drive on the LHS of the road in AUS ) . After going to numerous wheel alignment places most said the same thing that as they were designed to drive on the RHS and roads cambered down to the right and track straight ahead, and there being no king pin or camber adjustment on them that it was something I just had to live with ( or do as I do and drive in the RH lane on multi lane roads

Depending on how crooked it is.... If the wheel is off center, it will cause the bike to turn. To maintain a straight line, you will have to constantly fight that turn with opposite lean. Might be too little to notice. My last tire's wear band was a little shifted to the left. Never thought anytihng of it until it started to bald like this at 8500 miles: New continental started doing the same thing (highway wear band shifted about 3/8" to the left.) I also noticed, that more often that not I found that I felt the bike had the slightest left lean in the straights. I checked alignment by using an accurate ruler to measure the distance from the end of the swingarm to the end of the adjuster, they were off by about 1/8". I lined them up and the wear bar is now perfectly on center and the bike feels like it's finally standing straight.

Watch your diet and maybe try Bean-o.

Yeah, I have pounded the brakes on mine under 'test conditions' to see what they would do at 100%. If I mash the rear as hard as I can, the bike just slows down. If I grab the front as hard as I can, the bike just slows down. If I apply both, the bike just slows down really fast. The only reason I would delink would be for simplicity of service/bleeding. Much more complicated. If you want to feel all six front pistons, use the foot pedal and apply the centers. It's easy.

It has the same sound as the CF slip-on Microns on Airborne's bird, but not as loud. I'll try to get a sound clip up by the weekend. It has the same sound as the CF slip-on Microns on Airborne's bird, but not as loud. I'll try to get a sound clip up by the weekend. p.s. - got 1500 miles on those Continental Attack's you see in the pics, LOVE THEM!!!!!!!!!! $227 shipped from tireexpress.com.

I've got 9,800 on mine and I'm starting to hear the marbles in a coffee can on the first cold startup of the day now and then. Started at about 8,500 miles. As far as I know, the CCT and chain never actually fail, just get noisy. It's an easy fix. People hear "Cam chain" and get all nervous, when in reality the tensioner is an external part and a 15 minute job including removing plastic for access. How did that long ride go?

Note to self: Never ever ever use Nik's method again. Josh, that sux, hope you get it back together right. I would just follow the service manual, read through the entire procedure at least once and understand it before picking up tools. And yeah, pictures and baggies. And Labels.

Chain is cupped.

no, but the gas won't come out cooled like before, and the overall temperature of the exhausted gas will slightly increase. anyway, it wont damage your engine, that's the job of the unpleased neighbours to do... Right. The cans should be a bit cooler, and theoretically the engine and header should cool off a bit with the reduced backpressure. Still topped 205 (degrees, not MPH) on the 70 degree morning commute home this fine day.