sykotek-xx
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Posts posted by sykotek-xx
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I have a 1 ton central air unit currently, 1500 sq feet. It works OK but struggles on hot days. I might be able to get a 2 ton for dirt cheap, 2002 model used, same brand (york) as I have now. I have a brother in law that could do the remove/replace work. My question is, would I need to replace anything else (blower, etc) to swap out the 1 ton for the 2 ton? Obviously the 'manifold' on top of the furnace where the coil sits would have to be reworked or replaced. Anything else??
Thanks!
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"Life Begins at 7000RPM..."
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I've got 7000 on my conti sport front / road rear, no signs of anything abnormal, other than a lot of tread left for 7000 miles of use....
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Any guesses as to what used to be connected and may not be connected now that would have caused a mileage change this drastic?
You disconnected the battery and it reset your trip meter.
+1
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Biggest issue about the bike is the bunch of bozos you're going to meet here.
And don't take any $40 bills from Joe, they look real but they're not.
EDIT - FUCK I just realized I missed my 1000th post! Damnit!
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C-Clamp is quick and easy. Worked fine when I did my own tires for the first time last summer.
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I've read that you can raise the handlebars a little by loosening the clamps that go around the fork tubes. Can someone explain to a newbie how to do this, and how far up can I go and still be safe? Also, there is a clip at the top of the fork tubes. What is this for, and can I raise the bars up past this point? Thanks for the help
You can raise them up about 1/2 inch or so by loosening them, sliding themup and tightening them down. I did this for about 8000 miles. Never had a problem with it, but I put it back to stock out of paranoia. When you raise them, you are:
1) cutting in half the total clamping area holding them on.
2) rendering the stock anti-rotation tab useless since you're raising it over it's slot.
In my opinion it's dangerous, one hard braking session or something and one of them slips forward, you'll have a hard time maintaining control. For the amount of lift you get doing it, it's not worth the risk.
My $0.02.
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If I have my bright on (so both bulbs are on) sometimes my low beam will flicker violently unless the bike is running.
Check the conenctions between the bulb and the ballast/ignitor to make sure it's not loose. Also check your batt voltage when running, should be over 13.5volts.
That flashing is very bad for the bulb as far as bulb life goes, every ignition (flash) shortens the life of the bulb. I usually do the 'hold the start button and turn the key' trick to keep mine from flickering.
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Mine was noisy when I hit about 9000 miles. I removed it and retensioned the spring. I'm now at over 13000 with no noise.
EDIT - here's the link - http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...1&hl=spring
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Yes it was the 1100's, I had one. ZZR-1100 or ZX-1100 depending on what side of the atlantic you are on.
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Welcome to the club.
I think it sounds great, I have not gotten anywhere near tired of it yet. Not too loud, not too quiet. Sounds perfect to me and the price was right.
I do agree it sounded like crap with smaller holes drilled, like a muffler with a leak. Once the holes got into the 1/2" to 9/16" range the 'leaking muffler' sound went completely away. Just have to be brave enough to keep using larger bits until you get what you are looking for. I started off with the large (1.25") hole through the center pipe so I don't know what it would sound like with just the ends drilled. Either way I'm happy with the way it sounds now. Always liked the looks of the stock stainelss duals and I'm glad I get to keep them.
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I have the road attack on the rear and sport attack on the front. Love them, huge inprovement over the stock dunlops. So far so good on the treadwear.
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Hooray! I'm reposting it. Thanks for the heads up. I'm retarded.
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My buddy has a PS3, 20GB unit. I listed it on ebay for him. Here's the link. If anyone has an offer they want to make, email me at sch1234@gmail.com pr PM me here and I'll forward it over to him for consideration. He is not technologically inclined so I put it up on Ebay for him. He is honestly hoping for over $2K but you never know. Please don't shoot the messenger here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=330051529594
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How much of a project was that tail section? That shit is hot.
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One time I fucked up and bought energy conserving synthetic, for the second oil change on my 3000-mile old 750 Katana. Clutch was toasted almost instantly, and changing the oil back to non EC didn't help.
Good luck, though!
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Thanks.
I don't lug it, even puttering around I keep it above 3000 whenever I can and usually at 4000. More so than ever now that I drilled the pipes.
The pinging is light. I read other threads that say the owners manual states some pinging is normal. I'm going to try 93 octane next fillup, but other than that I'm not going to sweat it. Just runs so good I hate to hear the sound.
Chain is good, clean and oil it all the time, well in the green still (12,000 mi). It's definitely a light ping, I've been wrenching on whatever I owned all my life and know the sound.
I read the other thread about the failing knock sensor, but that one was failing toward the other end of the spectrum than what this would be. His was over sensitive, causing too much signal and too much ignition pull.
Mine, if it's causing pinging, would be sending insufficient signal to trigger the ignition to adjust.
Also I just remembered, my dad had a Dakota that he worked up pretty good, and it always pinged lightly when you got on it. Must be a high performance thing. Yeah that's it.
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damn those are nice pipes. Still available? Price? Loudness? DETAILS!!!!!!
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could be worse, your bed could be plastic like my 2004 silverado stepside. I backed into my gas meter and the entire quarter panel behind the rear wheel shattered like pane glass. I crazy glued that bitch back together.
I guess overall it's a good thing the bed was plastic, being that myhouse is still standing... -
Sorry it's a 2003. It's in my sig line.
No other problems whatsoever. Runs perfect. I read another thread (yes, I did search first...) about the fact that the sticker on the left side of the frame, near your knee while riding, states to use 91 octane minimum, while the manual says 87. This is a big difference around here, since the only three major choices are 87, 89 and 92-93. Guess I should try a couple complete tankfuls of super and just see what happens. I am mainly wondering if maybe the knock sensor is not sensing. No FI light, ever. -
I think the bike is pinging.
I hardly ever ride without a radio, so I never really hear much except the drilled exhaust. I've ridden a coule times lately without the earbuds and I notice that the bike sounds like it's really pinging under load. If I rev it in neutral, hold 3000 or 4000, it sounds fine, but in gear under normal load, any amount of gas starts what sounds like serious pinging.
I switch between 87 and 89 octane depending on the cycle of the zodiac, so my gas 'should' be OK. I ran seafoam through it about 1000 miles ago. Should be out of the tank.
Any thoughts?
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All US spec Birds have 1157 front Signal bulbs, dual filament
The Euro spec Birds have 1156, single filament
Funny many (like me) put a piece of electrical tape over one of the contacts on the bulb to get rid of the running light. I think it makes the Blinking signal more visable. On and off verses On and brighter on.
John,
Honda already thoguht of that. On the US bikes (at least my 2003), when you activate a turn signal, it extinguishes the front running lamp on that side while the blinker is blinking. So it is not on and brighter on, it is always on-off when blinking. Check it out.
All US spec Birds have 1157 front Signal bulbs, dual filament
The Euro spec Birds have 1156, single filament
Funny many (like me) put a piece of electrical tape over one of the contacts on the bulb to get rid of the running light. I think it makes the Blinking signal more visable. On and off verses On and brighter on.
Ok I get it, I remember when I was in Hawaii there where many cars that had their indicators illuminated, so that is a standard thing over there? I always thought it was a personal choice modification. I like it. Thanks for the info lads.
yes, I think that current DOT law states that all new vehicles must have some sort of daytime running lamp. Some use the indicator lamps, some use high beams at 1/2 voltage, some use dedicated lamps.
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The front signals double as front park/running lamps on US models, it's standard. Do the AUS bikes have dual filament front bulbs?
I think this is what you are talking about.... ??
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You do not put a tap in a drill.
You do not put a tap in a drill.
You do not put a tap in a drill.
You need to drill out the hole with the appropriate size bit for the tap, then the tap is run thru by hand with a handle.
I was also about to tell you to make sure you drain the oil if you are going to lay the bike down..... :icon_duh:
Centrail Air question
in Handyman
Posted
Sorry, like I said my brother in law is the HVAC guy.
I meant to say both coils I guess, the outdoor condenser and the indoor evaporator that goes in the ducting. I think the furnace is at least a 18,000 btu (1.5 ton?) it might be 24,000. The AC is definitely only a 1 ton unit.
Not sure if the old coils are sealed but I'm sure I can get it purged if need be.
I can pick up this 2 ton unit, both coils, for $250, so it seems like a good deal, is it? Going to talk to my brother in law to get his ideas when he gest some free time.
Thanks for the thoughts...
Also, I'm running under the assumption that the evap coil needs to match the condenser, am I wrong? Could I just replace the condenser outside and run on my current evaporator?