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rideonXX

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Posts posted by rideonXX

  1. my advice would be to stay away from the gauge type as you need to calibrate each gauge to have any idea if they are even close------and for you want something a whole lot more than 'close'. I have used the mercury tube type for years with very good results.

    There was a post on here a few months ago as I recall, where someone mentioned a setup out of england that looked really sweet. I had thought about ordering some because the setup was smaller than mine. Might be worth checking out. You should only need to make the investment one time---so make it a good one.

    Happy trails kel

  2. '97 with 50,196 miles on it----CCT & Regulator/Rectifier at about 36K which was about 3 years ago. Also a wire on the starter switch that cuts out the headlights when cranking, broke. The vacuum line to the petcock went out about the same time----when it was about 8 years old. Runs real good now. Happy trails kel

  3. RXX----I don't know what year your XX is----BUT-----on my '97 if you turn it off with the kill switch all the lights stay ON until you actually turn the key off. With the stock battery it doesn't take it long to run down enough that it won't start. Something to keep in mind.

    Just fortunate you were where you could get a new battery and not stuck at on some hot ass desert.

    Hope you have a wonderful rest of a trip and many happy trails kel

  4. Another thing that you could check that I had problem with-------a fellow helped tighten the clamps on the intake hoses and the pressure was enough to distort the carbs just enough that the sliders couldn't slide correctly. As I was trouble shooting I took it apart noticing how tight the 2 that he did were----redid them and all was well. Those on the intake side do not need to be tight.

    Wishing you the best---happy trails kel

  5. I use some that look just like the 'classic' linked above----but they are cream colored and I get them in a package of a few sets at the drug store. I cut them in half and they are more than adequate and don't stick out so don't get pulled out when I put the helmet on or take it off. What is amazing to me is how much more pleasant the ride is without that ear damaging wind noise. Ride a half day or so with them in and then, when you take a break--leave them out when you again. You'll wonder how the hell you ever put up with all the noise----and how much your hearing has been compromised.

    Happy trails kel

  6. You may want to check/change your vacuum hoses---especially the one that runs to the petcock. On my 97 I had a hell of time trying to solve a problem that was very much like yours. When jumped with a bigger battery, it would crank faster and create enough vacuum to open the valve.

    Honda uses an odd size port and off the shelf hoses will work---for awhile. I finally got sick of the bullshit and ordered the Honda hose----all has been well since.

    Best of luck and happy trails---kel

  7. Good discussion here regarding sealing the bead when installing tyres.

    I have stopped off in Thailand on my way home to buy a pair of 2CT 's. Once home i took my bikedown to a local car tire shop , I took the front wheel off , let them take off the old tyre , caught them putting the tire on the wrong way , all was good until i watched them "pop" the tire .,,, I stopped them and checked the gauge ,,,, 100psi ,,, god knows what they would have taken it to if I hadn't stopped them !!!

    Now , am i being pedantic for wanting to pick up a breaker bar and smash these guys over the head with it !!

    I dragged the boss out of the office (he speaks english) and tore him a new waste orifice.

    Brand new tyre that i had to get from another country ,, carried all the way home and then this.

    I dont know what pressure there supposed to have maximum , however everything else i deal with in life doesnt have that much tolerance ,, therefore the new tyre is back off the bike and the old one put back on until i can stop off and get another one.

    My fault really

    Why would you not use the new tire if was not visually cracked? Though 100psi would be way to high to operate with, it shouldn't damage the tire just quickly inflating it and then releasing the pressure as you did. The problem is when riding we hit things like potholes, railroad tracks and other things that REALLY stress the tire----but just pumping it up is an even pressure increase and since it didn't pop or cause any visible cracks (they will look like cuts usually in the root corners of the tread) you should be good.

    You might send an email to the tire manufacturer for an opinion---though I realize they have a vested interest.

    Personally, I would run it as I feel a tire inflated to 42psi hitting a quick surface change at 70mph (like the railroad crossing I mentioned) is a lot, lot more stress on a tire that evenly applied over inflation that is relieved before it ever touches the ground.

    Wishing you many happy trails kel

  8. I put a O21 Front on my ST1300 and at 2900 miles I'm on the wears bars on both sides. Pressures always up, mostly twisties but signs of heavy scuffing. Needless to say, I will be writing Bridgestone. Previous front was Z6---it went 6203--which I thought was bad---so changed the O21.

    Previous to that I had put an O21 on the rear of a Triumph Speed Triple I have and really like it and is wearing well. So, I would agree that they are not the answer for the front of a heavy bike---at least not ST heavy.

    Happy trails kel

  9. The ports are not on the carbs----they are below them. Just follow the vacuum tube that runs from the petcock on your tank to it's source and that is one of them----the rest are on the same horizontal level with little hex head bolts in them.

    Frustration and anger seems to cause a sort of 'blindness'---so just stay cool---follow the vacuum hose and you will be there.

    Happy trails kel

  10. Only one of the ports has a nipple on it---under the #1 Carb (counting from the left). It should be the line that is running to your fuel petcock. The remaining 3 ports have the short bolts or screws in them under each carb. When putting in your adapters, use very little pressure as you don't want to break one off.

    Make very small adjusts working to the ideal----otherwise it's easy to get things all fucked up. Take your time----make little adjustments at a time-----and if you have a fan of some sort to put in the front of the radiator it will help keep it from getting too hot.

    By the way---there are at least two hoses that are vents and not hooked to anything on the bottom---that is the way it should be.

    As for the little crack-----get a very small drill and drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading. That or take the tailpiece off and repair it.

    Good luck-------happy trails kel

  11. How many amps were you charging it at? I've been told that higher amps on a bench charger will warp the plates---shorten the battery life dramatically. I think the instructions call for a normal charge of 1.2 amps for 5--10hrs or a quick charge of 5 amp for 1/2 hr.

    Sometimes the battery is just no good---but a check with the diagnostic sheet he linked to is worth the effort.

    Happy trails kel

  12. 48,000+ on my 97---bearings are still excellent-----unless you are suspecting bearings are the cause of some problem---just check them closely for smooth rolling when you change tires---if they roll smooth, your good to go---happy trails kel

  13. Nice write up Hobicus. The part about bouncing the front forks before you tighten the one pinch bolt isn't silly, it's critical! What is does is align the fork lowers on the tubes. Just a tiny bit out of causes bunches of stichen that makes the fork sluggish at best. I have someone help me so that I get full compression of the forks every time the folk leg/axle pinch bolts are loosened.

    A great DVD explaning suspension and the stichen issue is Suspension for Mortals from Traxxion Dynamics.

    Thanks for taking the time to do the great write up. Happy trails kel

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