redxxrdr
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Posts posted by redxxrdr
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If you use the straight, make sure that your line is submersible.
Been researching to help Bill change the fuel pump on the k1300. All posts discuss fuel submersable line.
My local flaps know about it, but dont have it.
And dont blow into that 180 fuel filter to see if it is clogged.
You will take a bath.
And yes, I am that fucking stupid.😢
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XX?
if so, I would change the filter while there. I the filter has a 180 degree fuel line on one end, then there is a cheap replacement at your flaps. If metal 180, a replacement was $50.00 a couple year back
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My bikes with petcocks always had a mess sock over the inlet pipe to the carb. Almost clogged? Carb fills slowly, then bike runs . But wont continue after bowl runs dry.
You know the drill, pull the line from the petcock, and verify good flow. If slow, remove the petcock, check for clogged screen or petcock.
If all is clean, carb clean time.
Oh yea, dad and i propped a ultralight for hours, only to find that we didnt have enough gas in the tank for the petcock set on full tank.
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Without thinking too much.
Quick google using I phone to get these schematics.
The stator looks to be a 3 phase, like most bikes of today. But, they used each phase/coil separately. maybe to allow operation with a dead battery?
I assume that your goal is to switch to LED lighting. If so, the modern r/r is a full wave bridge. Input to the bridge would be the output of one of the coils. Output of the rectifier would be plus and minus DC.
If the coil, also has a connection to ground, then half the rectifier could be bypassed by a short to ground. Lower output.
since LED are still diodes, I bet that they will work on the AC circuit. Diode being a built in rectifier. But..... you may experience a dimmer output, since you would be using a half wave rectifier instead of a full wave, as is used on newer systems. Also, a/c output on 3 phase systems are around 60 vac. The regulator helps load the output to 12-15 vdc.
First confirm that my search found the schematic correct for you bike. Then confirm what you are trying to do. I often read things wrong.
Myself, i would try the LED lamps on the existing A/C circuit. Turn signals will require a different flasher relay, designed for LED current flow .
Just wondering, do the lights get brighter when you rev the engine? That is how my bikes from the 1960’s worked.
Or I could have completely miss understood. 🤔
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Sorry it took a couple days to pull the battery. The battery spacers wedged between the sides of the battery box and the round spacers at the bottom. It does make for a solid installation. I forget where I bought it.
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Philip
ill look and post tonight
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Can I use Girling Brake Fluid , and hth chlorine instead of Dot 4 and HH pads? 🧐🧐🧐?
For those too young, that combination causes fire, and a release of Chlorine gas.
isnt it time to discuss linked brakes again?
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I have used the EBC hh pads on my xx for over 50k miles. As good or better stopping and wear as the OEM gave. No damage to rotors..
i have EBC ceramics ( green type?) on the SV. They came with a caliper conversion kit. Good performance and wear, but next time, I will use the HH.
Take time to clean the rotor button while you are there
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9 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:
Pretty sure you'll need a special charger to make use of those balance charging connections. But for normal charging none of them need a special charger.
There is no additional port for load balancing , like those that you see on lithium ion model plane batteries. So they must be doing something different. Or a sales gimmick.
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I have a 1amp, no frills , trickle charger for my bike. I HOPE that I ride enough to not need it.
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I looked at many of the suggested battery’s.
I finally chose a scorpion.
Mid range price (for these batteries), equalizer circuits, to balance the cells, and no specific charger required.
But you are correct. When you pick it up, you are sure that you have been ripped off.
So light. And the XX spins real fast.
Time will tell how long it last.
I missed a early retirement package by being 11 days too young. So I guess that I will be testing the shelf life function this year.
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Not to hijack to a oil thread, but what type were you using?
Dino or synthetic?
very clean in there , except for the guide shavings
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Thank you for all the information.
i really appreciate the charging info. Some brands recommend their own special charger. But internal balancing circuits make sense.
I already have a mosfet r/R installed.
But life has limited riding.
The slow discharge rate should help, until I can ride more.
Now I can make a more educated choice.
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Search shows links that are a few years old.
John and Eric touted Scorpion batteries, 500 cca. Others liked Shorai, but those list AH, not CCA.
What have you You been happy with, the last few years?
Im leaning toward the largest power , with the same package size as OEM. Or is that overkill?
Thanks
Craig
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9 hours ago, John01XX said:
I use to carry some very cool looking aluminum shrooms that were milled to the same shape and design of the dimpled fairing bolts.
Sold out many years ago and never had any more made up due to lack of demand.Sorry that they are dirty John.
No time to clean after the storms.
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20 minutes ago, HANKSXXX said:
Checking alignment of the wheels shows up frame problems, fork problems, all kinds of stuff .
Checking that the chain is aligned on the sprockets or that the swing arm pivot is parallel with the rear axle doesn't address these important points.This....
I hope to build another wheel to wheel tool in the future.
Improvements will be thinner plexi to allow the beam to be more visible on the front target.
And longer targets, laterally. I was always having to space the front wheel target when I changed bikes with different size rear tires.
And it did show clip on , and fork alignment issues on that old sv that I have.
The great thing is that lasers have gotten much cheaper in the past 15 years.
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On 11/13/2018 at 9:58 PM, superhawk996 said:
Never seen anything like it, pretty cool. First thing I'd do is find a straight edge
I'd trust your home made thing more, and I'll take it off your hands if you buy the Monkey.
My son damaged my laser level when he was little, and later the target assembly.
The target was the tough build. I used the body of a cheap level, and two pieces of plexi to build the target. Scribed both targets with a set of calipers to have marks in the same place at both ends.
The laser level was mounted against the rear tire, pointing forward.
The rear wheel was adjusted until the beam hit the same point on BOTH targets. The front wheel has to be turned left and right as well to get the alignment complete.
But there was only one position that would hit both targets.
I copied the idea from Geoff from New Zealand.
Sadly, his post were lost in a early Forum crash / upgrade.
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Has anyone used this one.
It shoots down the chain.
The one i built years ago shot the laser from the rear wheel to targets mounted to the front wheel. Very accurate due to the distance involved.
But this Laser monkey looks easier to use.
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My shaft drive Magma has duel swingarm and can be aligned slightly.
Im not sure about a wing.
I have seen lots of improvement aligning chain drive bikes, both in tire wear and handling.
I think it is Speedygeezer who was selling a gauge style alignment tool. It worked good until i got bi-focals.
I cant get the string method to work on the XX with the wide lower covers.
And years ago, Graham , developed a laser based alignment tool. Targets on the front wheel, a laser on the rear. It worked really good.
Unfortunately, i broke the target end, and have been too lazy to build another.
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Many places will rebuild it.
If you bought it used, give the rebuilder your weight and riding style.
Most can tune with spring and valves to fit your needs
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The good news is you seem to have it down to electrical.
Battery could have been damaged, or just bad.
easiest would be to pull it, and have your local FLAPS check it.
Or disconnect you negative pole on the battery, and charge overnight. It should charge to 13.5 vdc or so.
Disconnect your charger and let the battery sit for a couple hours. It should stay around 12.5 vdc. If it drops below 12 vdc, bad battery.
if the battery holds up, connect it to the bike again, and monitor the voltage. It shouldn’t drop. If it does, I would go back to what you did last. r/R? Disconnect the plug and see it the battery stops dropping, r/R. If not, the troubleshooting continues.
Do you have any electrical farkles? If so, I would disconnect them one at a time until the voltage stops dropping
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57 minutes ago, SR71BLACKBIRDXX said:
I never liked the brush. Worked ok, but the bristles would fling shit everywhere. Spent half the day cleaning the swingarm, rim, and garage floor. Now, I alternating between a kerosene rag and a clean one to get the desired cleanliness. Still using the Honda chain lube in the blue can. Stuff works great
Same experience. But just use a clean shop towel, just after my ride. When the chain is warm. 500 mile intervals, sooner if the ride was in rain.
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The OEM. Is YUASA. It’s a sealed agm style battery. Mine lasted 7+ years. My second, over 5. Would have lasted longer, but I clooked it with a high current charger.
The problem with replacement YUASA is that they are made and sealed in Japan.
You could get one that has been aging on a shelf, if your vendor has slow inventory turns
Metal Rescue or Evapo-Rust?
in The Garage
Posted
I found a photo that I took of a bent steel filter in pump, and a $8.00 generic filter.