redxxrdr
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Posts posted by redxxrdr
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I changed the CCT on my 01 last week. 25K miles. Didn't hear the marble in can noise, but it smelled rich at idle and the exhaust was leaving a dark area at the end of the cans.
After the change, I noticed that the engine was now electric smooth above 7k, gas mileage did go back up to 220 miles/tank and the dark exhaust has not come back in 600 miles.
My origional was a double green dot. I plan to order a new (just in case) when John gets his stock in.
Very easy to change, and the price is right.
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CCT
in The Garage
Thanks John,
With no other birds to compare to, I was guessing if I really needed it.
I bought one through the stealer a few years ago, for a just in case.
Other threads have indicated that even without noise, it might eliminate hesitation, rich type conditions, and cokeing of the exhaust. Mine does seem silky smooth during accelleration, and mileage did go up.
Seems I lost some weight today, am not impotent, and maybe have found the cure to male pattern balding.
Fantastic what a new CCT can do for you.
Do you keep green dots in stock?
Got to get my just in case stock back up.
Craig
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CCT
in The Garage
25k and doing service after a long road trip.
Thought I may as well change out the CCT. The one I removed had the double green dot.
I have a 02/01 Redbird. When did the factory start putting the new CCT on?
Just wondering, Now it is time to ride.
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I'm just TRYING
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+1 on the centering effects of chain lube and dirt. :icon_clap:
I only hope that free floating sprocket is centered when the automatic locking materials are deposited.
Honda thinks of everything.
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Backfires can come from air leaking into the exhaust. Loose joint at a slip on, or a cracked or loose manifold could cause it. Nice, hot, unburned gas, just looking for some oxygen.
If it runs good, I would check for leaks first. 2500 miles should be enough for you to pull the plugs and see if one cylinder is running rich.
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Guys I have managed to get a hold of a R/R but its different? I think its from a 2001 Model (mine is 2000).
The connectors are the same , can anyone confirm if it is compatable?
Gonna try it anyway
Ill let you know
i'll stick my neck out here and say the only thing that could cause your problem is a failing rectifier/regulator resulting in high voltage, i would get this replaced as soon as possble otherwise you may find yourself replacing more expencive items than bulbs.
the voltage between each of the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator should be around 50vAC, the bird has a 3 phase stator and would be difficult to get more power from it, same with the battery so the one thing in your charging circuit the controls voltage is the RR
I agree,
Some of the members have added a voltmeter to the panel.
I don't know that it would pick up AC volts, but since you have had two failures, it might be worth installing.
Try Service Honda or Ron Ayers for the clocks. I assume you mean the complete lcd panel.
Those two sources have decent pricing, for new parts.
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I have never tried the Avon's.
I can tell you I put my last set of Dunlops on ............................ The time before my Pilot Roads.
I never cupped a rear, but Dunlop fronts cupped within 1000 miles.
Do you do much two up? Burnouts? real agressive roads?
I have wondered if my early tire wear was due to alignment issues. With the laser setup, I am fairly sure that both tires are parallel with each other and the frame.
Just thoughts.
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I have seen post that warm to hot water can be used to remove the glue on the taillight. It might work on the headlight too.
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Articflipper,
If I remember my threads, you have already done the 6mm, and lots of work on the forks. Didn't you say you were also on the light side, compared to most of us 200 lb+ riders?
I am no speed demon, but riding a XX then a 600 cc bike has shown me that small and light is fast.
You may have already seen the Empire video. Watch how those 650 motards close the gap so quick.
I know there will be one in my future.
Thanks for the videos, but get on the right side of the road.
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cleggben,
I think what you want is pinned here.
Have you used the electrical troubleshooting guide posted here?
I haven't needed it yet, but it makes lots of sense.
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All other electricals failed concerns me. Typically to blow the lights, you would need high current or voltage.
Lamps are resistors, so they would limit the current draw, except when the voltage became too high.
I would not replace any parts until I followed the charging troubleshooting guide in the Garage.
I suspect your R/R has failed.
My old eyes didn't see a seperate fuse for the clock, but I will look again after a cup of coffee.
Put a meter on the battery and see what your charging output is. If higher than 15vdc, shut the bird off and repair before you do more damage.
Good luck,
And post results.
Craig
Edit,
fuse A 20 Amp Headlight
fuse B 10 amp neutral,oil,tacho,speed+temp.position.meter light,tail.
fuse C 10 amp turn signal,front. rear brake , horn
fuse D 10 amp starter, engine stop sensor
fuse E 10 amp fan motor
fues F 10 amp clock.
I hope by clock, they mean the complete display. 10 amps is a high rating for a lcd display.
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local farm store sells 5 gallon Purple stuff degreaser. 50/50 mix with water. Let is soak a day and wash in the horse blanket washer down at the barn. Or your local laundy mat.
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I like the Honda HP. I find that I can use a terry cloth shop towel, and clean the chain to shiny in about 10 minutes. No solvents. I just spray on new lube while slowly rotating the wheel.
I hate cleaning just before a ride, so I usually wash and dry the bike, wipe off the chain, and relube after my ride.
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Same type thing.
Put the bike on the center stand. Either get someone to sit in the pillion position to lift the front, or if I am desperate, put a jack under the oilpan. I always protect the oil pan with a piece of wood and a shop towel.
Never lift the front any higher than needed, or start compressing the rear suspension when lifting.
For the front, I loosen the axle first, then put the bike on the stand. Remove the fender (4 allens) and at least one caliper. I then pull the wheel and reinstall the caliper. I don't like hanging brake parts on the hoses.
Don't forget to get some blue locktite for when you reinstall the caliper bolts.
If you are doing both wheels at once, you can still use the centerstand, remove the front wheel and lower the bike down onto the front forks on shop towels. I don't like doing this. I have two young helpers in the house, things seem to go wrong when they assist.
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Probably close,
If you use Honda OEM sprockets.
I think I was at $275.00 with sprockets direct from a stealer, and a DID xmv? chain from a local shop.
Many use aftermarket sprockets with good results.
Check Ron Ayres and Service Honda for sprocket prices, White Buffalo Racing has good prices on chains and aftermarket sprockets.
Don't forget the chain stake tool. If you can't borrow, you could pay another $100.00 or so for the tool.
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Yes the Jumbo will push the link without grinding. I have heard some people damaged the push pin doing it.
I keep a dremel and cutoff wheel in my toolbox. Makes the chain removal a quick job. The jumbo stays in with my bike trailer. Plan to keep that push pin fresh, just in case I ever need it on a trip.
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The marks are a reference. Some say they are O.K. most don't really trust them to make the wheel straight.
The older thread tells of the many ways people align the wheels. I do know when it is right, the chain centers itself on my rear sprocket.
Of course by now you are done and riding.
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I went out and looked. Nut on the right for my bike. On the left for my other two.
Don't really think it matters on the rear as long as the spacers are in the correct place. Remember the torque 69 foot lbs. and to turn the adjuster bolts in the tightening direction until snug, AFTER you have torqued the axle.
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I have the jumbo and like it. you do need to file the head of the link to push. Dremels cut the link faster.
My first try with the jumbo caused the link to spread too big and split. Glad I had ordered a spare link.
Take your time and measure often.
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You mentioned the lever.
I bet cleaning the slave rod will fix your problem.
If not, have you removed the lever and lubricated the pivot point? Also on my other bike, I ran 18 years with the origional clutch fluid.
It was getting sticky. The fluid was dirty, and bleeding all the dirty fluid out helped.
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Is M 108 the part number for the filter that fits the bird?
Available at autoparts stores?
Sounds interesting.
Thanks,
Craig
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Spoke with a Yuasa rep at Atlanta IMS.
Sorry I don't have our origional battery number in front of me, but he said instead of 12____- battery there was a 14_ _ _ battery that had the same package size, but more cranking amps.
I have been lucky so far, battery almost 5 years old. I do ride at least 2 hours a week, and have my idle set to 1200 rpm to keep the output higher at idle. The rep said that since these are sealed batterys, they may age on the shelf. He recomended purchasing from a larger dealer, who should have higher turns, and lower shelf life.
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I'm sure most know this. Pump your brakes a few times after you change brakes, or tires. You will have expanded the calipers to get the disk in, and with worn pads, you may need three or four good pumps to get your brakes back.
Not the thing to find out when you really need to stop.
Oil leaking... can someone tell me??
in The Garage
Posted
Look higher on the engine and make sure the oil isn't from there. The stuff will travel a long way. Other members have posted about oil leaks that were finally diagnosed as valve cover leaks. The oil would go down into the sparkplug recess, and out a drain hole onto the engine. Mine had a small leak coming from the top right. I found the cam pulse generator loose. Retorque of the mounting screws seems to have fixed it.
It might be worth doing a torque on all bolts in that area. Use a torque wrench and the proper specs. Many of the values are much less than what you would do "by feel".