redxxrdr
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Posts posted by redxxrdr
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NOT A OIL THREAD
Does the clunk stay constant with rpm?
Does it stay constant with the gear you are in.
Put it on the center stand and watch the chain.
A stiff link made mine clunk. The clunk was constant to the speed I was going, not the gear.
Watching the chain, I could see it jump when the bad link jumped across the front sproket.
It was quiet on the stand, but there under load.
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Interesting Read.
I can't believe that a Honda CBR engine would run 200K
The one thing I have noticed about synthetics was a lack of sludge when I rebuilt my old Aircooled VW engines. Dino oil always had deposits. Mobile 1 did not.
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I haven't had the problem yet, but I have read that a failing battery will cause this type of problem.
Poor connections will cause voltage drops, however the clock should not draw much current on it's own.
If you are concerned about the charging system try this procedure from the Important threads section of the garage.
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When you figure the Automatic double dot last 15-25k and John has a great deal on them, why put in a manual that you will have to check as the chain wears.
I haven't taken a automatic apart, but it seems to have a spring that rotates a screw down to hold the tension. My old one didn't move at all when I thought I could just push the piston up.
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I think it was 254 that my temp gauge started flashing. Stop and Stop traffic at Daytona last year. Yes I did shut it down. 176 is where my thermostat regulates in cold weather.
Airflow is key. Ride behind cages, or even a group of bikes in hot weather, and the bike heats up fast.
Get in open air with the rpm up around 4k and the waterpump and radiator seem happy.
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Glad to hear that you are back on the road.
Just came in from a ride with my 10 year old son.
Good times on the XX.
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01 with 25K purchased August of 01.
Hate to jinx it, but it started fine tonight.
YUASA battery Rep. told me that the XX batteries are sealed, and that you should purchase one from someone who sell a lot of them. Sealed battery could mean lots of time on the shelf, since they were sealed in Japan.
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Snap-on makes a nice inch/lb Nm with 3/8 inch drive. I would check with one of the mobile automotive tool companys, Snap-on, Mac, etc.
+1 on the snap or break style. Reading a scale when torquing a large value is impossible.
Buy a couple of good wrenches in different scales, and work in the middle of the range.
Keep them in a good toolbox and don't drop them. They will last a lifetime.
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That side car is not mine. I had just seen it on Darryls site, and figured it was a good fat tire example. I am pretty sure someone on this board knows this owner. Maybe we will get lucky.
I know they can be had for almost anything. I got a good deal on my bike trailer because the previous owner was adding a car to his eyebusa and needed more trailer room.
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+1 on not going to a large rear tire. My understanding is that your handling will be shot. Ride the bird for a while first. It's not a 600, but then it's not a wing either. I had my tank up yesterday cleaning the air filter. The wires to the sensor are small gauge. One may be broken.
Welcome to the board. The people are great, and not afraid to tell you what they think.
How about a slightly larger front wheel?
Craig
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You may also be a victim of the last oil change. If someone before you over torqued it, you found it.
I have always felt that the threads on the plug helped retain the oil, not just the head on the washer. If so, Helicoils may not be the best choice. Most Helicoils have open threads.
There are many case-saver inserts out there which will work.
You might check at a local small airport for a A&P mechanic. Aircraft engines get failures like this often, and due to the expense involved, most A&P have the tools to fix it.
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I only have 25K miles on my bike. OEM DID chain failed as you describe at 18K.
The problem is, I think I created the failure. At 16K I cleaned the chain with a household grease away product. Just a few miles later, I had sticking links. The chain was still in the green for length. The same product had also gotten on the stator cover, and left streak marks.
I suspect that I removed all the old lub, and did not get a good coating when I reapplied. Then the links rusted between the plates.
Only 7k on the new DID XVM, but after 500 miles, it has not needed adjustment. New sprokets at the same time.
I now clean the Honda Lube HP off with a shop towel after a long ride, or every 500 miles.
I will leave solvents for cleaning my shop rags.
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Sorry Steve,
Not the man on this one. I need to do that to.
Torturedsoul?
Not a Microsoft employee are you?
I remember a easter egg, I think in Excel that had the hall of torturedsouls.
Craig
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Thanks for the post and Welcome.
Many times I can't place my hand on the part the manual describes.
Great pictures.
Craig
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I looked at my 01 after seeing this. I have a blank plate below the nose, and it appears another inside the lamp assembly. I could come in through the rear, where the lamps are.
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I change them when I remember. Had Steeler do it once, when my back was out. No leaks, and no washer either.
Get a handful next time you are at a steeler, and keep them with your filter wrench.
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Mine are good.
4 on the clutch, 2 on the brake. I set them the same and did a quick measure. They seem fine. But then mine are the fast RED ones.
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I started with D205, then went to D208. Finally woke up and tried something different.
Pilot roads front and rear and am very happy. They wear much better, and turn in is faster.
Do a search on tires, you will get many opinions. But I think you will find that most agree to lose the Dunlops. Also check out SW moto in the vendor section. They have been great for every tire I ordered.
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I haven't been to PR in years. I miss traveling.
Welcome.
48 is not really old, but neither is 64. I am actually only 47, but the Fart portion probably fits.
You will love the bird, and this site. Congrats on the birthday.
Craig
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Are covers cut, or do they mount elsewhere?
I see so many sliders that only attach to the plastic, don't see how they are really going to help.
Will you post pictures of your install? I need to get a set just to help on my carport drops.
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Wasn't a eye burner for me.
I am almost blind in the morning. Especially before the coffee has sunk in.
I just figured it was written for the old farts.
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Now we are back to the origional thread, and Tom has asked the question I have.
How is the ride at the higher speeds. I have only seen 172 indicated (155?). I know things are busy even at those modest speeds.
Salt flat bikes seem to lose traction as they go faster. This makes going faster, and straight a problem.
How about my beloved Bird. Does it continue to hunker down, and get smoother?
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If I install two sets on my 01 will I go 400 mph?
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Chain rivet D.I.D
in The Garage
Posted
Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel is best for removing links. I have done it by fileing the rivet flush with a link, and driving the rivet out with a hammer and punch. If you try that, always support the back of the chain with a large socket. Drive side of socket next to the side plate to support as much of the plate as possible.
I have seen people use a tubing flaring tool to flare the rivet. They placed a piece of steel behind the chain, in place of the tubing holder. It has also been done using a small ball peen hammer. Ball side of the hammer against the rivet. Then hit that hammer with a second to flare the rivet. You must support the back side of the link to prevent damage.
Those ideas said, You spent alot of money on that chain. If it fails, you will spend much, much more.
Buy, borrow, or rent a proper tool. Mine cost me $140.00 when I bought it. I will use it 8-10 times in it's lifetime. And yes, $140.00 is a lot to me. But, it will let me change the chain when I need to, and I will know it is right.
I would have a second master link, in case you ruin the first. ( I did even with the proper tool).
Good luck,
Craig