redxxrdr
-
Posts
4,398 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by redxxrdr
-
-
1 hour ago, RXX said:
How did you lower your bike? I am interested.
Philip
I haven't done it, but I did read a lot when I first got my bike.
The front could be done by shortening the spacer in the fork tube. Easy to do, but shortens the suspension travel. Or drop the forks in the triples. Sort of looks funny, but it keeps the compression / rebound pretty much stock. It also gives you a higher, mount relative to the tripple, for the clipon. No vfr clipon needed.
This does change rake. Not always a good thing.
The rear just requires a lowering link.
EBay today shows many for the XX in the $150.00 range. Some use a threaded rod with lock nuts to set variable height.
The issues that I see are getting to low and dragging fairings.
And rake. OEM is 25 degrees.
I don't have a perfectly level place to put the bike and measure rake.
I would pick the most level place that I had, Mark it so that I could put the bike in the same place every time, and subtract 25 degrees from the rake you measure now.
Lower and measure the rake on the forks, keeping the normalized rake close to the OEM 25 degrees.
We don't want tank slap.
I should have a inclinometer accurate to minutes, if you want to try it.
-
I remember the curtains opening with Ian Anderson wearing a pink tutu.
His wife in a French maid out fit, and feather duster, spent a long time dusting his balls.
Venue was the sport, I mean snortatorium.
Late 1970's , lots of great bands touring.
-
1
-
-
Here is a link from Mikes build.
-
Another question. Did you replace the pump with a aftermarket one? Or a full assembly.
If aftermarket, did you follow the instructions for wiring the pump.
I added a picture from a ebay pump only. Don't know the value of it.
-
I will look at a spare tomorrow.
Another, got me was the kill switch. It interrupts fuel pump power. I think that the 1st gear / kick stand interrupts the starter.
Did you only replace the pump? Or the filter too? My original intermittent was a clogged filter.
The 01used the filter with a 180 degree outlet. Others used a straight in straight out filter with a rubber 180 installed on it.
I think that there is a connector at the tank base that powers the pump, and must be connected to operate.
Edit,
I found my spare and attached photos.
Was the original pump working at all when you started this project? Do you have a volt meter or trouble shooting light?
Do you still have your old pump? Some jumper wires.
Supply some additional symptoms and Oscar or I should be able to help you through.
-
I changed the filter on my 01 by removing the tank.
I had a like failure after assembly.
I found that I has attached the fuel line banjo 180 degrees off.
Looked good, sounded good, and would start with the tank propped up.
But with the line 180 out, it would kink and shut off fuel flow with the tank down.
-
Can't say for sure.
But I did find this sizing list recently.
https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/fork-tube-diameters-list.20950/
Search for Stan and Mikes ZXXX build threads. Not 1000 rr, but neat builds with great ideas.
An extended sizing list.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/114934265/Fork-diameter-cross-referece
-
Something I still need to do.
Would you add the model / year of VTR clipons to this post for us old forgetful farts?
-
3 hours ago, SwampNut said:
Buy good fuses.
And make sure that they are DC, not AC fuses. There is a difference.
Is there any way to reposition the charger so that it gets airflow? And is not in a flammable bag?
-
Not exactly the same color, or paint quality. But that blue / teal color gets lots of complements.
Beautiful job you did there.
See Rich, it's no longer yellow.
-
Bump
Still looking for one.
-
Mine is clunky when cold. A warm up before riding really helps.
Blackhawkxx asks a valid question.
My 87 Magna, with hydraulic clutch started to do the same thing. Warranty could never find anything except to bleed the clutch.
I finally replaced the slave cylinder, that had a small leak, and all was Honda smooth.
-
2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:
Since no one else asked, why would temps go up with oil that supposedly has less friction? The same weight of oil?
I have no and answer.
I went from my first oil (dino) after break in to the same weight in Mobile 1.
Outside temps in the 60's.
Indicated water temps went from 176 to 178 degrees and stayed.
It has never dropped back to 176, and has always stayed at 178 with proper cool air cooling.
I have rotated through Mobil 1, hotel t6, and royal purple with no change.
The issue should be thermostat related, but I didn't change coolant for thousands of miles .
Strange. But I don't worry about 2 degrees , compared to my perceived quality of synthetic oil.
-
It's important to remember that the thermostats job is not to limit the max heat of the. Coolant.
It's job is to get the coolant to the correct operating temperature as fast as possible.
Correct temperature reduces wear, increases fuel economy, reduces emmision, etc.
But during the summer heat, the engine is at temperature quickly, and rising higher, if the cooling system can't keep up.
Where the thermostat helps is when the outside temperatures are are low. The thermostat bypasses the radiator, allowing the engine to warm quicker.
-
My bike operates at 176 to 180 degrees . it has since new.
Temps went up about 2 degrees when I switched from dino oil to synthetic. But still below 180, on days that are cool enough for the thermostat to regulate. If air temp is too high for the cooling system, then you will be running hotter, thermostat or no.
Coolant change with Honda coolant won't hurt, and may help. Stay away from DEX.
Evans waterless will prevent over boiling, but heat has to leave the bike, no matter what coolant.
Many, many years ago , there was a post showing a waterpump that had been destroyed by silicate based coolant. Phillip?
I have had car flow rates tested at a shop years ago. It was done with a in line flow meter.
I don't know if there is a flow meter for bikes.
-
I would say it was the car Philip. 😀
But my first was a 550 R. Couldn't pick up a girl.
Got wrecked. Pulled out 56 willys pickup. Couldn't beat them off with a stick. Redneck country.
Damn nice brother you have there.
Where's a picture of the pickup?
😀
-
5 minutes ago, XXitanium said:
Thanks for the Gimme.
The kid needs the car back to go to back to school.
I have been living that dream too.
Kirsten has a 1993 Lebaron, needs all front end replaced. Chris just returned from afganistan. He has never owned a car. Both are looking.
I get up some morning with only a bike to ride.
I have spent many a long night rebuilding a childs, or my own car to get to school.
I even put a ring gear on backwards once. Old VW and porsche would let you do that.
Drove a 356 to school for a week with one forward gear.
-
1
-
-
If avaiable, try a couple of tanks of non ethanol gas and check mileage.
My 01. Gets much better mileage (2-3 mpg) on good old gas.
As posted by others, my vacuum lines were cracking, and caused some problems too.
-
1
-
-
The finish, and visible metallurgy is much better than normal Harbor Freight, painted or chromed. Plus the socket style holder, even in plastic, holds much better than the stamped metal Craftsman holders. I usually lose my speciality tools before needing them again..
In my internet searching, I also found a set that looked like it was rifled on the inside. A Wal-Mart product, for $13.00.
But checkout on my phone defeated me.
The great news is that I got this done, and I have another tool for my box.😀
-
55 minutes ago, XXitanium said:
I was miserably defeated on a VW Jetta yesterday.
VW. Your first problem.
Took it down and dropped it off at my usual garage in defeat.
A good mechanic knows when to punt.
I currently have a 1961 beetle convertible and a 1965 type 2 truck.
Neither drivable at this time. Retirement projects. The old ones require some special tools. But the modern water Cooled VW have parts that seem to be designed to fail.
My initial post was to get knowledge of alternate processes to remove the screw. We have a great knowledge base here.
In the day, I have carried a VW engine in to a machinist to get a broken exhaust stud removed.
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, Furbird said:
Yes
Mangled the head a bit, but it worked well.
I have replacement bolts from eBay.
-
Harbor freight nut removal tool.
Worked good.
Almost made the bolt head into a reverse torx. But it workrd
-
1
-
-
Acetone and ATF is a good penetrator. I use it on old VW and far all tractors all the time.
These bolts have heads that are smaller than the bolts themselves.
I didn't use high heat, or any until they started to strip.
This poor little bike has spent the last four yeArs stored in the Georgia rain and humidity.
She has some young bucks chasing her. If I don't resolve it soon. They can have st it.
-
20 minutes ago, XXBirdSlapper said:
How did you apply heat??
Small butane torch. Splayed on head, then 15 minutes or so on threaded section of caliper.
I know heat on head won't transfer well.
Threaded area on caliper is deep, and hard to get to.
My princess torch is too big.
I ordered 4 used bolts from eBay.
At least one of them shows the same distress. So it must be a standard for ninja.
The good news is that I can drill the bolt if necessary.
The bad news is that it has to be done with a hand drill. Easy to screw up.
Nikki just split from boyfriend, so I have become Inportant again. 😗.
Chain was banjo spring tight. Brakes worn and had the replacement problem.
She washed it while at my house. Now it shuts down. Aftermarket fuel cap, guess I'll be pulling tank.
Etc etc etc.
Project Blackbird
in The Garage
Posted
What tool did you use to pull / seat the wheel bearings? Hammer and drift, motion pro bearing tool? Or something else.
There is one issue with this build. It is so nice that it will be a shame to ride it. But it HAS to be ridden.
Thanks for posting.