SR71BLACKBIRDXX

I dont know...it seems to me that you would want constant tension on the camchain with no way to develop slack. I think the only way to improve on the OEM CCT would be to have a stonger spring on the inside. Im no engineer, but the way Honda designed that part, its NOT supposed to back off. If an X-11 CCT is really better...Id like to know the difference. I doubt there is any at all..(except that its black) As far as tension on the cam chain shoe..(the long rubber piece that the CCT rests on)..ive never seen one wear out. Im sure it will wear faster, but I dont think its an issue. It might go 100000 miles instead of 150000...who cares.

Your correct. When I bought the bike it was noisy so I replaced it. Replaced again about 7000 miles later and the last time maybe a month or so ago. All have been the double green dot. I have no idea what the "pre X-11" one is. Again..im not worried about it failing, but Id like to get to the bottom of it... Im not sure I agree with that. If it was designed to back off, why make the guts of it the way they do. A simple spring loaded device would probably work. And why does it back off, then go back in after that harmonic range of rpm?? Try it someday. It only moves in that rev range, then never moves all the way up to 11000 rpm. Chop the throttle and nothing happens either..until the needle swings back through 4500 rpm

Maybe, but you dont want to bind the screw itself. It may not retract, but it may not extend either. It just bugs me. im sure it will never fail..but its the point of it I guess

Thats definately the culprit. Now with about 1000 miles since Ive done this, I can hear the noise stating to return. I figured it would. Doing what you describe will not really help much, and now I know why... Yesterday I stuck a screwdriver in the end of the CCT with the bike running and revved it through the 4000 rpm range. Guess what..ITS ACTUALLY UNSCREWING ITSELF!!!! I couldnt believe it. The harmonics in that rev range are actually turning the screw back and retracting the lifter part. I didnt think it was possible but that is whats happening. I got a long metric bolt and screwed it in until it was lightly touching the screw and guess what?? No more noise. So more spring tension could be enough to overcome the harmonics, but I dont want to fuck with it again. im thinking a small set screw in the body of the CCT to just lightly touch the screw and then replace the original bolt and washer on the end might cure it??? It will allow the lifter to extend still, but not retract any. Should have kept the VFR...then again..Who gives a fuck Im serious....how much you want for it??

Have done a few hundred miles since..and still very quiet... We'll see... :icon_think:

The problem with your statement is that its not the CCT getting noisy, its the cam chain itself developing slack and causing the rattle. It can cause loss of power due to incorrect cam timing, premature wear and eventually failure. Alot of people mistake the PAIR valve for the noise and especially in the morning at startup. I blocked mine off and its much quieter during cold starts. CC noise is a much different sound and it seems to make the most noise @ 4000 rpm. Did 100 miles with no noise, but it will most likely return someday...either that or the CCT will fail because I modified it

Well..I got about 1000 miles on my 3rd CCT in 10000 miles and the cam chain is noisy as a fuck. So here it is.... Really a simple device. You have the body of it, a slinky-type spring, the actual lifter itself and the threaded piece it screws into. If youve taken an old one out and stuck a small screwdriver in the ass end of the CCT, youll notice that as you turn the threaded part, it will retract the lifter and as you let the screwdriver go, the lifter extends. Its physically impossible to push the lifter back in after it has extended..(unless you do the screwdriver trick). This is why I cant understand why the fuck the cam chain gets so noisy. Anyway..... I took it apart and wound the spring up tighter then installed the lifter...in other words I gave it more tension. installed it and guess what...no more noise and much, much smoother. Im taking a long ride now...Ill post up later on

Just go with OEM... I woulnt complain about 48000 miles. Yours went 4 times longer than most... Just around $100 balloons at Ronayers. I wouldnt degrade my XX with anything Yamaha.

I never break the law...thank you... Thanks Dale...Its a real weird feeling. I was hoping that it will go away once the tires are broken in a little. Other than that, they feel good and about 1000 times better than the stockers.

The first thing that struck me when I got the tire was the tread pattern. Although it looks kinda cool, my worries came true this weekend... Corners and speeds below 15 mph..(like coming to a stop) the bike seems to wallow signifigantly more than before. Kinda like a 80's jap cruiser. Very funny feeling. Has anyone else noticed this with this tire?? This is the last time I listen to you bastidges about anything.... Metzeler from now on...

:oops: Well Ill take the 50% and be happy..

Heavier oil will amplify the clunk..heres why... (I think) Theoretically the mainshaft should stop spinning when you pull in the clutch. In reality it doesnt. The weight of the gears, clutch and oil cause drag on it and keeps it spinning. Thicker oil will cause these parts to stay spinning faster and for longer so a subsequent shifts makes engaging gears harder. Its the same reason most bikes clunk going into first from a stop. You pull in the clutch but the mainshaft still spins slightly, but the countershaft is not. Or something like that

Which screen most closely resembles the stock one??? Id like to get a smoked or dark one, but it seems that most of the ones are much taller. Anything about as tall or maybe a tad shorter than stock??? oh yeah...'02

Have a line on a set. Do you have to buy the guts on the inside of the bars too?? Or will the BB's fit in there??

Can someone look it up for me...dial up here... Ive done it before but I cant remember the order. Ive got a power bleeder, but I do remember it being a pain in the dick

I remember doing this on my '99 and there was a particular order you had to do it. Two bleeders per caliper if I remember correctly. Thanks

I did the same thing...The right size screwdriver will do the trick. That little key they send you wont turn shit without twisting in half. Trust me...get a small screwdriver...it will turn back

:pointup: :pointup: :pointup: Ive been using this stuff for a while..(not for lubrication purposes)...and I love it. Smells good too.

Should have bought it from Barnett. Cheaper and better. Were the metal plates just glazed or were they blue in color??? If they were, you should have replaced them too. They are cheap and if they are not flat, your gonna get some chatter and your fiber plates will wear way quicker. Clutch slippage creates heat and thus warps the metal plates. I replaced the clutch on my VFR @ 25000 mi. It was slipping only a little bit and the plates were warped. You did replace the side cover gasket too... right???

Replaced it and guess what....no more noise. The one I took out appeared fine. Still had a good .500 more throw on it. I dont get it. My new one did have 2 green dots on it instead of 1. I read something about this somewhere but I cant remember what it was.

I seriously doubt that cam chains stretch that much in 40k. The CCT has about 1 inch of travel. When I pull mine out, I will measure how much more throw it has. My bike has 12k on it now, and had 2k on it the first time it started making noise. Theres no way the CCT is even near the end of its travel. Revlimitbounce is correct. The VFR had gear driven cams from its debut in 1986 to the 4th generation...(1998-2001). Only the 5th gen. have chain driven cams.

Bike started making that god-awful noise again @ 4000 RPM. Why after 10000 miles and all of a sudden??? The first time I replaced it, was at 2000 miles. The noise disappeared. Now its back. Gonna try it one more time...... :banghead: :banghead:

I agree.....010's cupped very badly @ 2000 miles. Enough so I had to replace them. Running 020's now for 2500 and still look pretty good. I still think Metzeler MEZ4's are the way to go.

I really hope that your kidding bro... Compressed air will ruin a K&N in no time, and using fuel to clean them is just about as good for it as tits on a bull.