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OZDave

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Posts posted by OZDave

  1. Yep, my 04 does it too. And a mates as well now that I think of it. I think it's an FI thing. Maybe the 02 sensor reading is being used to lean the mixture out at those throttle settings. Just guessing here though.

  2. High speed compression is usually just an adjustable spring loaded pressure release bypass valve anyway. They're not precision needle valves like low speed compression systems. They are a nice toy to have, but not essential. The low speed (or only) compression adjuster is the important one. The shim stack is the high speed compression adjustment system anyway. If you get that set right for you, the external high speed adjuster is only a gimmic.

  3. My friend in New South Wales told me that OZ was used as a penal colony early on. He said I probably could not live up to that standard. :icon_rolleyes:

    Have had work related trips scheduled twice, but always got bumped by senior engineers. :icon_sad:

    A real answer to oil for me is Mobil One synthetic, changed every 3000 miles. They have just changed the blend again, so that may change.

    I have never met anyone from down under that did not enjoy life, and drank me under the table. It is a place that I intend to visit before I die.

    I think the best you can do is change with a good quality oil and change often.

    Assuming that is there are not Platapus available today. :icon_twisted:

    1. Nope, no platapus. :icon_frown:

    2. Sydney was used as a penal colony :icon_naughty: . The kicked the bad ones they couldn't handle out...up to Queensland, the sunshine state. Give Sydney a miss and come to Brisbane :icon_angel: . We'll look after you. Seriously, It's a great place.

    3. Senior anything's are bad.

    4. I use Motul 3000 (Mineral) 20/50 but mine is still relatively new, 16,000ks.

    I think the Mobil 1 without the friction modifers is the best choice, especially as the Bird run a little hot. Synthetic handles the heat better.

  4. Dale,

    Your efforts are always appreciated, and we are all thankful for your research and efforts, honest! :icon_clap: :icon_clap: :icon_clap:

    It just that, since this particular "Group Buy" has already been done before, and the details have already been worked out, then I hoped a "repeat opportunity" would not be as onerous.

    Not trying to minimize the efforts involved at all, really. I thought that a placing a few calls, and reposting pretty much the same information, would let us help the great American economy, once again!

    Thank You for your consideration, WC!!! :icon_hail::icon_hail:

    +1

    Damn, guys, I am behind getting the Traxxion and Pro-Oiler GBs rolling as it is now!!! :icon_evil:

    ...and???? Don't worry about the Traxxion GB, the Pro-Oiler is the important one. :icon_biggrin:

    Seriously....any news?

  5. Now I know you're joking. If I asked my wife to "Plait her Puss" I'll be in big trouble. I'm not that stupid :icon_snooty:

    ...and why aren't you allowed to come here? Do you go around trying to :icon_evilgrin: .....no I won't go there!

    You're always welcome as far as I'm concerned, especially if you bring some Skunk or Ferret oil with you.

  6. Bit rare though. I haven't actually seen a wombat in the wild myself. I suppose I could sneak into a zoo and snatch one or something. Just as long as you are sure it will work. I'll get back to you. :icon_eh:

  7. I use unfiltered secretions from skunk glands. In a pinch, I'll squeeze a ferret. Good for about 500km, before I need to find another ferret.

    :icon_clap:

    Fine for you, but we don't have skunks, and ferrets are illegal in Queensland Australia. Any other suggestions? Kangaroos aren’t very oily. Please help. :icon_shifty:

  8. I use 38-40/f and 42/r for touring... and 36/f and 38/r for twisties. (Oz Crow rides faster than I do :icon_frown: hence the lower pressures).

    I believe you need the higher pressures especially for the rear to reduce squaring off. But I have to add, the tyres have kept a very good profile over distance. Not like Dunlops! I wouldn't have any other tyre at the moment.

  9. Why swap the whole forks? Just swap the cartridges over. All the valves, shims etc are all in the cartridges and you get to keep the new shiny outside bits like sliders and legs. And it’s probably easier than swapping the whole fork anyway. They are only held in by an allen headed bolt.

    Or am I missing something? :icon_neutral:

  10. Actually you can lube all you want, the factory grease behind the o-rings is what keeps that wear down on the pin.

    True, but the rollers on the bushes are not protected by o-rings. This is where lubrication is necessary, and of course the rollers/ sprocket interface. Also to a lesser extent the exterior of the o-rings are supposed to benefit from lubrication. Apparently it slows down the degredation of the 0-rings which helps keep the factory grease in. The jury is still out on that one though. :icon_confused:

  11. It's the side plates that stretch.

    Actually the side plates don't stretch. The bush wears most, then the pin. Rollers on bush wear depends on lubrication. It's the oval wear gap between the pin and the bush that makes the chain longer.

    There is a much larger surface area between the rollers and the bush so wear in that area is reduced if kept clean and lubricated. I have seen some rollers that you can grab between your thumb and finger and rattle back and forth, but this will not affect chain 'stretch' much.

  12. For my Aussie brethren, however... the $185 gets it delivered halfway around the world to Austrailia, but they still have their local regulations to deal with... sorry, mates! :icon_sad:

    No problems. We'll deal with it. Thanks again for all the effort.

  13. Just checking the prices :icon_eek: Bloody hell! AU $305 EXCLUDING TAXES. Any news on a group buy WC? :icon_neutral:

    I'll probably still get one though. :icon_frown: But...That dogey looking one with the manual squeese bottle is starting to look good :icon_biggrin:

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