OZDave
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Posts posted by OZDave
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I too went the Gold Valve route and am very pleased with the results.
+1
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Correction factor = 72
Table 13
Setting 3
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I know I'm late, but it's the pink one.
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I mic'd all of my shims, and they were all within 0.0003 of where they should be... (I had borrowed the company's 5 decimal place micrometer to adjust valves on something else, and I happened to have it at home when I got laid off... Whoops...
)Mike
Severance pay! :icon_shhh:
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That's certainly what I'd do in your position. Other may disagree.
I agree 100%. If it is in spec, leave it until next time. Moving it to the centre of spec is a waste of time.
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Does it remove the clunk from first to second changes? I assume it would have no difference from neutral to first at the lights.
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I also had a instant blowout last year on my rear PR. 1 inch gash cut through the tread at 60+ mph. I heard the pow through ear plugs and full face, but had to stop to be sure the tire was flat. On a straight road, the tire was very well behaved with no air. This alone is a great reason for me to buy one again.
:icon_shocked: That is a very reassuring story. I run PR2s. I hope they are capable of the same performance if that ever happens to me. I think I would shit myself if I stopped and saw something like that.
On a slightly related topic, has anyone else noticed the Pilot Powers bleed air. I had to top them up constantly. Friends noticed it too after I mentioned it. (Once a week, not dangerous or anything). I only had one set but I really liked them. I check the PR2s often but they rarely need more air.
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I'd agree with all those sentiments. I'm not changing over to them yet. if ever.
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I also have never worn a tyre to the indicators. I don't believe that is worth the money savings.
Yeah but once down to the wear bars and beyond its like a slick and much more grip in the dry
Good point! :icon_think:
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Well said Helvet, and I respect your opinion and agree with the comments about inferior tyres. But... I have found the Shinkos Ultra sticky(003) front and Raven(009) rear to be very good tyres for the Bird. They stick better in the wet than Powers and are stable. They are very cheap here because of a dealer selling them almost at cost. I think the price is a major factor in peoples opinion against them. I have heard some whispers and rumors (unsubstituted) that the 005s had some some structural problems at one stage.
However I changed to Pilot Road 2s because of the handling of the Shinkos. They steering is very slow (but also very stable) and I prefer a quicker steering bike. I am very happy with the PR2s and will stay with them but it is not a grip or safety decision.
I have tried:
Bridgestone BT57s (Disliked, but way better than Dunlop 205s)
Bridgestone 014s (Reasonable)
Dunlop 220s (Disliked)
Pilot powers (Loved but concerned that they were a little light for the Bird)
Shinkos (as commented on above)
Pilot Road 2s (Loved)
Never tried Metzlers on my bike. I also have never worn a tyre to the indicators. I don't believe that is worth the money savings. I have test ridden lots of friends bikes with various tyres also but with different suspension and ride heights etc, its difficult to get an accurate impression on other tyres.
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key
in The Garage
Ha!See that rest of the world? Y'all thought you were hot shit having the 'bird until 2007!!!
We can get as many keys as we want and cheap too :icon_nana:
Anyhow, I wonder if you could install a U.S. spec ECU and ignition switch to save money?
Bastard!
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key
in The Garage
Does your Suzuki track bike have a security system built into the key?
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key
in The Garage
The ECU's are plug and play....and expensive. The four keys maximum for the ECU is also correct so you should have 2 left if you can find the information somehow. I believe the blanks are matched to the bike with a gizmo rather than ordered as a working set but I'm not sure of this. If it is the former you should be OK, if you can find a dealer with the machine.
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Nah! They're crap. I've never used one but a voice in my head assures me that the ZVM2 is better, so it must be true.
Who would that be.... The Wizard ???
Could be? :icon_think: They're are a lot of them in there. :icon_shifty:
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EK ZZZ
:icon_goodsign: :icon_thumbsup: The ZZZ is the best chain I've had on my XX.
Third that.
Nah! They're crap. I've never used one but a voice in my head assures me that the ZVM2 is better, so it must be true.
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Here is the 58, not home to shoot the 63. Now for complete disclosure, I dont run a blackbird sproket, but a custom 530 Krause Racing for a Honda 400ex bolt pattern. All my stuff is billet and over the counter but the sproket and hubs.
Impressing vehicle and a good picture
Pipes look a little restrictive though. Ever think of using something more open?
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EK ZZZ
:icon_goodsign: :icon_thumbsup: The ZZZ is the best chain I've had on my XX.
Almost as good as the DID ZVM2.
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That has to be the most useful tip with photos I've seen in a long time. I think I'll print that out and carry it in my bike kit. Brilliant! :icon_thumbsup: I had one go in the rain at night. I bought a bulb easily enough but I had to half disassemble the bike just to see what was going on to be able to change it. (dark car park
, still raining) -
Friend had one that collected water in the connector boot behind the front cowl after a serious wash. Just needed to be tilted down. If it was after a wash, I wouldn't give it a second thought.
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Why does it increase HP? Or maybe the question should be.. Why does the PAIR system hurt HP?
Because the PAIR system dilutes the exhaust flow with a COOL charge of fresh air.
This really screws up power for a couple reasons. First the air is heavier than the exhuast gases, so it slows the particle flow down. And sencondly it's cold, which further slows the gases down inside the exhaust system.
So put simply, the cooler and heavier the exhaust gases are, the slower it travels, which equals increased backpressure, which equalls less power.
THIS is the cheapest, easiest method of blocking off the PAIR System, using a 1/2" rubber expansion plug. Courtesy of EVLXX:Hey... there's that picture... I was looking for that one. Another member asked me about that a while ago.. and I couldn't find that picture to show him.
Thanks for posting it.
Also.. I should add, the purpose of just plugging that hole, is to disable the PAIR system for Dyno testing without haveing to spend a bunch of time and money removing the entire system.
...or you could just clip the hose. It's a lot easier. :icon_silenced:
With what ?
What's you smokin ?
With one of these.
What do you think you'd clip a hose with? Maybe you need a smoke?
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THIS is the cheapest, easiest method of blocking off the PAIR System, using a 1/2" rubber expansion plug. Courtesy of EVLXX:
Hey... there's that picture... I was looking for that one. Another member asked me about that a while ago.. and I couldn't find that picture to show him.
Thanks for posting it.
Also.. I should add, the purpose of just plugging that hole, is to disable the PAIR system for Dyno testing without haveing to spend a bunch of time and money removing the entire system.
...or you could just clip the hose. It's a lot easier. :icon_silenced:
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Thanks for the comments Bartonmd,
I replaced the rear sprocket with a JT. I wish I had got a sunstar or an OEM, they just look to be better quality to me. (no evidence, just an opinion) The rear had a little side wear/polishing from the chain running against one side so I replaced it. The teeth didn't look too bad but they did have strange polish pattern in the gully of the teeth but that may have been because of the stretched chain not sitting directly in the bottom of the sprocket. It was in much better condition than the front.
I still haven't had a chance to ride the thing yet. I am hoping for a much quieter ride.
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I would not replace the master link if it still moves as freely as any other link. I would follow it up though and make sure it stays OK. The master link side plate might even locate correctly when you have used the bike some.
That's what I was hoping people would say. Thanks for the reassurance.
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I fitted the new DID ZVM2 chain and new sprockets today with my new Motion Pro Jumbo tool. The press plate did not press both ends on evenly so I did both ends separately a little at a time, taking measurements all the time. Being basically retarded (blinder of a headache) I managed to over press one end too much by about sightly less than a 1/2 millimeter compared to the adjacent plates. I could find no way to pull the plate back out so I peened the rivet, aligned the chain with the motion pro chain aligner, took some drugs and went to bed.
Now I am awake and it bothers me.
The chain link is not tight at all and moves freely. SHOULD I REPLACE IT? I do have a spare, but I don't want to. (too lazy)
Interesting Notes:
The swingarm marks have little relationship with the correctly aligned chain. The Alignment Tool was checked on an accurate straight edge at work. It is accurate. I had to purchase a section of 4mm rod from a hobby shop for $5 because the supplied rod is too short to be usefull.
The chain has been very well maintained for the second half of it's life with a Pro-Oiler, and the first half with regular spray lubricants. (every 1000 ks or so)
The replaced front sprocket has visible wear after only 33,000 kms. The rear had less obvious wear but I would not consider using the 'two chain to one set of sprockets' theory after looking at them.
Any opinions, comments ect, welcomed.
For all you Pro Oiler guys
in The Garage
Posted
For you, anything
.....except sex and cash. 