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matey_peeps

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Posts posted by matey_peeps

    Not the usual tire question

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Those Pirellis stick like fucking GLUE too. I've got no chicken strips on either side of the rear, and am still running 42 PSI in the rear with my fat ass and a shitload of luggage.

    Sounds excellent. Do they make them in 180/55-17?

    Wouldn't that be awesome?

    In a related note, my buddy Jerry has a 170 ME880 on the rear of his FJR and it's wearing like iron if'n that was a route you wanted to pursue.

    Not the usual tire question

    in The Garage

    Posted

    My GS came with Metzeler Tourances, and I dunno how many miles you'd get out of em from personal experience.

    Then I put on Dunlop D607...that was a fucking mistake. Typical Dunlops, cupped to shit and worn the fuck out at 6k. Fuck Dunlop. They make completely shit sportbike tires, I dunno why I thought they'd make decent multisurface tires.

    Currently I'm using Pirelli Scorpion ST, and at 5k on em it looks like there's a teensy weensy flatsopt, about what you'd see on a bird at 2k on a Pilot Road. Most guys I've talked to who use the Tourance and Pirellis usually get 11k+ out of a set, and judging by how mine are wearing, I fully expect to get quite a bit more than 11k.

    Those Pirellis stick like fucking GLUE too. I've got no chicken strips on either side of the rear, and am still running 42 PSI in the rear with my fat ass and a shitload of luggage.

    leaky clutch

    in The Garage

    Posted

    On my TL1000R the slave piston seal was notoriously bad. It leaked down inside the sprocket cover, so any leakage could be misinterpreted as chain lube spooge. In that system, there are only so many places it can leak: master piston seal, banjo fittings, slave piston seal. If nothing's obvious, my money's on the slave piston seal as it's out of sight/out of mind.

    Bitched-up my tail cowl

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I ditched my Sirius radio. As much as I love Stern, and the commercial free music, I was still having reception issues especially in incliment weather, and I could no longer stomach the $240/year for the 2 recievers. So bye bye.

    I had used some silicone to adhere the antenna to the tail cowl. Popped the antenna off and the silicone remained. Tried peeling it of, no go. Tried rubbing the shit out of it to get it to ball up and come off that way, no go. So I carefully took a utility knife blade (minus the knife) and 'shaved' it off. This still left a paper thin layer of silicone. It's not coming off.

    Now, I've posted a bunch of times how I wish my bird was red. I'm thinking winter project. The tail cowl now needs a respray (trust me, I didn't stop with the blade where I left off above.)

    I've got an HVLP spray gun and can tent up my garage as a spray booth. Who here has painted their own plastics/tank?

    All bodywork is in mint condition except for the tail cowl, which is still flat, just ugly. So there should be minimum prep time.

    I'm thinking of using the tail cowl as a guinea pig, and if I get good results I'll do the rest of the plastics/tank.

    Any tips? This will be an over the winter thing so I'm not starting it tomorrow. Just looking for advice...

    Thanks.

    I think gas will take off silicone? I think? You may have to soak a rag in gas and lay it on top of the spot.

    Dual Star Heated Grips question

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Do I need the Heavy Wall Shrink Tubing for the left side grip?

    I understand that the handlebars are steel in the area and Dual Star does not recommend using that tubing on steel bars. However, I've noticed that some members of this group HAVE used that tubing.

    Was that additional step needed in the past before Dual Star added extra wiring to the left side?

    I've never used the heatshrink insulator on all of the ones I've installed. The grips get equally warm; you'll notice the clutch side has more windings than the throttle side. Other than making damn sure everything's clean, no additional steps are necessary. I put 30,000 miles on mine this way with zero failures.

    Tool for checking drive chain tension?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Well, I'm sick of it. :icon_evil:

    To see if a chain needs to be tightened, you follow the instructions in your manual.

    For me, it's "put the bike on the centerstand and see if the freeplay in the chain within X to Y."

    I know that sounds simple, but it's really a guessing game at times. I had to mark a wrench with tape and ink marks so I can eyeball it on the road when I'm on trips.

    Don't they make an easy tool that lets you measure this easily or does everyone have to improvise a way to check this stuff?

    It might be a little issue, but the work to make a minor chain adjustment is a real pain if I'm reading stuff wrong.

    very compact.

    IPB Image

    Heated Gel Grips

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I've decided to install Dual Star Heated Grips.

    How will these work with my Pro Grip Gel Grips?

    I've also heard that Dual Star has now double wired the left side grip to heat correctly with aluminum handlebars. True?

    They will work with gel grips, no problems.

    They are side-specific as the left side acts as a heat sink. They'll have a little sticker on them that tells you which side to put them on. Top bit of kit btw, you won't regret the purchase.

    Steering Dampner

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I've maintained that the XX does not NEED a steering damper. It is a stable chassis that works well, is predictable and steady.

    However, changes to the chassis and suspension can affect that stability negatively, and make the XX prone to headshake. If those changes occur, the addition of a steering damper can be an appropriate response, and a positive modification to the XX.

    What might those changes be? Well, here's a few examples.....

    *Alteration of the steering geometry that quickens the steering...the reason that many sportbikes need dampers right from the factory. That might include things like raising the rear, dropping the front triples, or using different weight springs in the front.

    *Degradation of the chassis components. This is normal wear in many instances, and can include slight loosening of the headstock bearing and both front and rear tire wear.

    *Changes in chassis flex or loading, such as occurs with the addition of popular bolt on baggage frame systems.

    *Changes in chassis loading that occurs with adding a passenger, several cases of beer, or simple accessories that alter the front/rear weight distribution.

    *Changes in dynamic forces acting upon the chassis caused by modification such as installing premium high performance tires, lighter or wider rims, or significant increases in horsepower from the use of big-bore kits, turbocharging, or nitrous injection systems.

    *Global warming and sunspots.

    Hope this helps.

    You forgot to mention fat chicks on the back seat.

    Any1 tried this CCT

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hei...

    My Cam Chain Tensioner has just started to make that rattling sound, and I am about to order a new one. Have any of you tried this one: CCT on EBAY

    Why does it look so different than the one sold at Jaws?

    I appretiate any input on this.

    Thanks

    -Lasse-

    It's a manual cct, and therefore takes feel to install and adjustment periodically. I put one on my dad's bike I restored for lack of a better OE replacement, and it's just one more thing to keep your eye on.

    Tires

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I went 140+ for 15+ miles in Kansas on the non-B tires, with luggage and my fat ass on top.

    I survived. :icon_dance:

    That being said I prefered Pilot Roads.

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