dehning
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Posts posted by dehning
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OK I think I get the vacuum hoses, I will check for fuel in them.
I'm not so sure of the PC3, seems too sporadic?
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So is that FPR part number 16740-MAT-E22, or number 18 in this diagram:
(Also, could somebody explain the mechanics of how fuel from a fuel pressure regulator ends up in a vent line ? They don't seem like they should be linked ?)
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Just a hunch... Check your vent lines for raw fuel - they should be dry. If not, the FPR diaphragm could be compromised (pin hole will sometimes manifest similar symptoms - at first... unfortunately, it'll only get worse). The good news is that it's an easy fix; just replace the FPR (on the right end of the fuel rail).
Wow, and this would cause this VERY sporadic issue ? With all my playing with these things I don't think I've ever messed with an FPR.
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Lost engine power or all power including electric?
Lights go out or dash blink out?
Know you mention the trip meter not resetting but wondering about lights
Only engine power for 1/2 a second, all other power stayed working fine. Dash didn't change.
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Hi all, I've had my '02 XX for 5 years now, love the thing to death. I have put about 15,000 miles on it, the vast majority of which is commuting. In the last few days something a little troubling started. Last week on the way home it lost engine power for about 1/2 a second, it came right back and was fine the rest of the way home. This morning I was about 10 miles out and it did it again twice, separated by about a minute. Not wanting to risk being stranded, I turned round and went home to swap bikes, it never hesitated once on the way home.
I have racked my brain about what would cause this and I am looking for any ideas, here are some notes/points:
* I have not changed anything whatsoever on the bike in a couple thousand miles now (short of an oil change and chain lube)
* Bike has ~29,000 miles on it.
* It has happened at 95 and 75 degrees fahrenheit (I'm in Texas). No water/rain whatsoever.
* The clock/trip meter doesn't reset when the hesitation happens and there is no misfire.
* I have a Power Commander III-USB with a custom tune for my setup (K&N air filter and full Yoshi 4-1 system)
* I'm still on the original battery that came with the bike which cranks easily and the bike starts easily.
* I never ever push the bike, you could call it "babied", it sleeps inside a garage.
Please give me some ideas, right now I have the following suspicions:
* Bad power line to PC3
* Oxidization inside the plugs of the main harness.
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Damn, if there were even a half reasonable way to get that to Austin, TX then I'd be all over it. My current '99 VFR800 was almost completely under water after hurricane Katrina and now it runs like a champ!
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Here's my 2c: I have Helibars on my VTR1000F and VFR bars on my XX and I think the VFR bars look W-A-Y better.
Keep in mind that you have to use 43mm clipons which means 2nd Gen (2002-) VFR800 only not 1st Gen (98-01). Also see if you can get hold of the right switchgear from any year VFR800, it just works better.
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BTW, I actually decided to get adventurous and have all the lines on my VFR800 custom made in red. The VFR has the same complex setup as the XX. I actually had the lines that run between front and back made in one single peice instead of using that solid line at the frame. Took a while to get the kinks worked out and I eventually went back to stock on 2 of the very short secondary lines but overall it worked quite well. If I recall, the while lot cost me $200 shipped.
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Added one to mine, works great. Sad that Honda with all their expertise can't get this right.
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A stupid question. What is the designation for the flat socket type bulb used in the later XX taillight? I seee the 1156/1157 types all the time, but have never found the numbers for the later style.
My madness to the method is to use one of the pulse generator boxes from this site to pulse the brake light circuit.
A buddy has this type system on his Beemer, and it is really annoying to be behind. Just the type of thing I want with a distracted cage behind me.
Also, has anyone used the socketed LED packs in the taillight. I had always heard that the LED types are more directional and might not show up as well as a regular light from some angles.
I know there are ones available for the XX (& VFR) type sockets from superbrightleds.com.
I ended up actually getting twist type sockets for my XX from Autozone because I bought the wrong LED lamps originally.
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Thanks for the write up.
I would do some quick testing to make sure the fronts aren't going to get super hot. They are on all the time and that might cook them.
3W of energy is alot to dissipate w/o any air flow.
I put about 16 Lumileds up front in each of my turn signals. I used red through an amber lens and people get out of my way at night on the highway.
I'll check. Have not had any problems with my brake lamps plus of course they are not running at full intensity unless you are actually turning.
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Thanks for posting this info.
Several years ago, I also replaced the dim chromed/amber bulbs, but with Osram Sylvania Amber Silverstar bulbs. They are considerably brighter than the chrome bulbs and give an interesting bluish look to the clear park/turn lenses. After thinking about how long they had been in, I recently looked for some backup bulbs, only to discover that Sylvania has discontinued them for some reason.
Because of the bulb orientation in both the front and rear housings, I was wondering if there was an LED replacement "bulb" that would actually work and give off a safe, usable amount of light.
I tell you what, these new ultra-high intensity LEDs like the Luxeon lamps are crazy bright and more importantly (for braking anyway) they illuminate instantly where any incandescent lamp still takes about 200 miliseconds to get to full brightness. That's 22 feet at 75mph more warning for the guy behind you.
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About 2 years ago I read a write-up on how to fit a 2000-2001 CBR929 rear shock into my VFR800, so I picked one up that looked brand new off eBay for $20, created a spacer from the building supply section of Home Depot and installed it.
The difference was actually pretty significant.
So since the Gen 1 VFR800 and XX are so similar, I wonder if the same shock would fit there too. I will admit that the R1 shock looks cooler
The one I got looked exactly like this:
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Needed a new chain and sprokets for my project SuperHawk but trying to do this one on the cheap so I found:
a new 525 "open box" VFR750 sprocket on ebay for $12
a new 525 CB600F rear sprocket for $20
an almost new 525 Ducati 1098 DID OEM chain that was cut off for an upgrade for $9
a DID 525 master link for $5
$46
My XX has a better budget !
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I have used the Luxeon 3W lamps from Superbrightleds for the brake lights in my XX for some time now. They are absolutely dazzeling and leave no doubt in anybody's mind about when I'm slowing down BUT they are fairly pricey.
I have clear lenses for both front and back blinkers so I first tried the chromed out incandescent lamps but they let through so little light that they are almost dangerous, so I cheaped out a little and got some of the 68 LED SMD towers off ebay a while back. They look cool and work a little better than the chromed incandescents but are still not bright enough for my liking. I noticed recently that superbrightleds.com have a new kind of 3W lamp that's fairly cheap ~$13/lamp and has a 320 degree light diffuser so I ordered a set to try.
These are the old SMD towers and the new 3W lamps:
They may be 3W units, but they are not quite as bright as the Luxeon based lamps, but still significantly better than the 68 LED SMD towers.
I tried to get some photos of the two but of course the camera is trying to compensate:
Here are the fronts, the one on the left is the new type, the right is the old type:
The rear old type:
and new type:
they have a neat heat sync design so they even look cool when they are off:
All in all, I'd say that these are the best value for money LED lamps I have seen. (The luxeon 3W units are still slightly brighter though)
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I actually built one of these a couple of years ago to match my silver '02, as with everything Tamiya they are very well made kits.
I just fear that you may be a little high on price as you can pick some of them up off eBay for a little less.
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Don't forget, you want the bars from the 2002- VFR800, the '98-'01 are the wrong fork size.
It also helps to change the right XX switchgear to the VFRs as well because the throttle cable routing is better suited to the higher bars.
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Just FYI, I have not had to replace the Regulator on my Blackbird yet, but the one on my VFR800 started failing a while back so I eventually made the switch to an R1 regulator. I was actually able to get the R1 regulator under my fairings without cutting any of the cooling fins. It has worked flawlessly every since:
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It will connect like every other gear indicator.
Assuming it doesn't come with a male/female harness connector, you will need to splice into:
1. Ground
2. Tach pulse
3. Speedo pulse
4. Neutral light
5. Switched power
They are all in the bundle that plugs into the gauges.
I fitted one intended for a CBR959 onto my VFR800 a few months back.
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Try this search in case you want to broaden your serch.
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When somebody sends you payment via PayPal, they can check the 'personal' tab and PayPal won't take that percentage (unless you have a business registered at PayPal using that email address)
I use this all the time.
Just FYI
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I have Ravens on my Busa, and recently put Ravens on my 'bird and I'm so sold that I'm finishing out my trio by putting Ravens on my VFR800, just got the delivery confirmation
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Just rode up to the Eustis, FL area and rode in and around the Ocala National Forest. The Ravens were great. Absolutely no problems and I was going pretty good to stay up with my nephew on his 1,500+cc 'Busa. He even blew a high speed sweeper on his Pilots and did some offroading while I just railed around it.
I have nothing to report about the Ravens' wet grip or longevity. I suppose I can always slow down a bit in the rain if they suck. Somehow, I don't think they will.
I did notice the front tire wandered over the grating of a small bridge we crossed. Nothing horrible, but I knew it would behave that way since it has a sipe that runs right down the center of the tire.
Right now, I can't think of any reason why I wouldn't buy a second set.
Before I bought mine, I researched them online. Every wet weather performance reviews said they were better than average.
The few times I have ridden mine in the wet, I have to agree.
I remember thinking a few months back that I can't believe that these tires are not spinning when I tried putting down some extra power or braking hard on the Hayabusa in the wet.
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I'm considering getting a set of shinkos so I'm following this thread.
Why did you guys chose the 009's over the 005's or 003's?
Did shinko take over another tire manufacturer?
I personally went with the 009's because they are a sport touring compound as against a pure sport compound. They still have all the grip I need for every day riding but they are apparently good for at least 9000 miles.
Shinko bought molds and compound technology from the old Yokohama motorcycle tire company.
Sporadic hesitation, need ideas.
in The Garage
Posted
I will check PC3 (It's a lot longer than 3 minutes to get to that plug though)
I was riding smooth and flat so I don't think it's the angle sensor, I've had one of those go out and the problems are much more noticeable, not 3 misses in 20+ miles.
Like I said in the original post, this is drought stricken Texas, bike hasn't seen water for months.