Sandbag
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Posts posted by Sandbag
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No, unless the front calipers have been monkeyed with, (i.e. in some de-linking procedures, new passages are drilled in the caliper castings between the center piston bores and the outer piston bores), the front master cylinder only operates on the two outer caliper pistons (and the outer bleeder) on each side of the front wheel.
This is pretty late in the game, but exactly what model Blackbird do you have? All my documentation and experience relates to the late model, 1999 and later, LBS setup.
Using a Mityvac usually makes bleeding easier, but are you able to move any fluid using the old classic method of filling the reservoir, pumping the master cylinder lever, holding the lever down, then cracking a bleeder with a line going into a waste fluid container, closing the bleeder, releasing the lever, re-filling the reservoir, pumping the lever again, and repeating the cycle? This works better as a two-man operation. If this works to move fluid from the M/C reservoir to the waste container, then you must have air either in the lines or the piston bores.
If this doesn't work, it sounds like something is still wrong with your master cylinder.
Also, to verify, this is what I am calling the "outer (or misspelling as outter) bleeder":
Mine is an 02 & yes we are talking about the same outer bleeder. I have tried the old school pump & crack but I get very little fluid to flow. I did notice that when I took the MC off, after I put it back together I put my finger over the output & on the first pump there was significant pressure, on the next pump just slight pressure. I'm starting to wonder if there is a tiny tear or defect in one of the seals allowing fluid to slip by.
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Anyone know how that piston on the left side front caliper is bled?
Sandbag, it sounds like you actually lost your front brakes by pushing in the pistons to accomodate the new front pads before doing any bleeding. Did they not pump up any at all after the pad install, or were they just soft? Did you check for fluid loss at the front calipers? If the piston bores were very dirty or corroded, you may be getting air in there as you try to pull fluid with your Mityvac. Do you pull clean fluid from the outter bleeders, or is the fluid foamy with air bubbles?
Can you get any pressure at all from the brake lever? If you pump the brake lever 5-10 times, then while holding it down, crack a bleeder, does fluid come out the bleeder? If fluid comes out very fast, you probably still have an air bubble in the system that you are compressing instead of moving pistons against the pads. The T-blocks and the cross-over line would be the only other place besides the caliper piston bores that might collect air.
If pumping gets you no pressure, there's always the possibility that pushing the caliper pistons in caused trash to be lodged in the master cylinder piston seals, causing you to not be able to get any pressure from the master cylinder itself. That would require taking the master cylinder apart and at least cleaning it all up, possibly requiring a new seal kit.
I haven't had to deal with your situation on a Blackbird, so perhaps someone else who has had similar problems with the front brakes will chime in.
I can pump the lever till I'm blue in the face & I can't get any pressure to account for anything. I took the MC apart & it looks fine I didn't see any trash at all. Reassembled went through the entire front bleeding procedure & still nothing. Assuming that the front lever isn't connected to the rear (fluid wise) there is no reason to bleed the rear, correct?
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I have bleed my ars off & I'm still not getting proper front with the lever. I had cracked the banjo at the MC (under pressure) & both outer bleeders, used the mighty vac & it still is mush. All I did was install new pads & I had to push the pistons back in too allow the new pads to fit. Then when I went to pump up the front before taking the bike off the lift nothing. I pulled out my mighty vac & accidentally ran the MC dry. That certainly shouldn't have damaged anything to cause this. :icon_wall:
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OK so I'm still screwed. Using the rear pedal I have great front breaks, but with the lever I have poor front breaks. After a few hours of reflection I remember that I never saw the front MC fluid drop as I was doing the rear outer (rear) bleeder. It would only pull from the rear MC if I pumped the rear pedal. Why can't I get the line from the front to the rear to bleed properly?
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2 pints of dot 4 later I finally got all the air out of the lines. What a PITA. Thanks to all who gave constructive help.
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Assuming your brakes are still in the original linked configuration, most of the bleeding is done from the rear fluid reservoir. You might take a look at this thread on another Blackbird web site which distills the process somewhat:
Bleeding the Bird on cbrxx.com
I found it necessary to gently pump the brake pedal for the rear caliper center bleeder while pulling a vacuum with the Mityvac.
If you're familiar with the process and it still didn't work, I've got no idea what happened.
That's what I was looking for, I will try it this evening when I get home. Thanks for the info.
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Need a little help, I put on new front pads today & after I had everything together I went to pump up the brakes & they were mush. So I pulled out the might vac & after about 30 minutes I came to the conclusion that me bleeders were clogged. After removing each one blowing them out with the air hose I was able to bleed the 2 front calipers but the rear will not bleed. The bleeder is not clogged & I even tried without the bleeder in & nothing. I have bleed the brakes before with no problems. Any ideas what may be the issue?
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It was the Lube!
I will not disagree!
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It was the chain!
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Determining the frequency will indicate whether it's the chain, front, or rear sprocket.
If it's one link in the chain the noise - feeling will occur with each full rotation of the chain.
Likewise if it's the front sprocket the frequency will be much higher.
With the bike on the center stand, or with the rear wheel free, and the chain tightened, rotating the rear wheel should give an indication of the source. And check with the cover on and then off as well.
Most probably the chain.
Ditch the teflon spray and get another chain lube.
I did try turning the rear wheel on the center stand & I could not get it to make any unusual noise. Also tried it running on the center stand no unusual noise. It only made the noise under load. It sounded like 1 bad link & a guy following me said he could see the chain "jumping". I just finished putting on the new chain. I have a thunder storm outside so I may have to wait till tomarrow to see if the noise is gone. I did rid ethe lenth of my basement 40' & no noise
. Thanks for the tips guys! -
One other thing to check when you take the old chain off and get ready for the new one. Before you take the front sprocket loose/off, put the bike in neutral and turn the sprocket by hand. Try and see if it feels smooth or if you notice some "notchiness" in it. The reason that I'm saying that is to make sure that you don't have a bad/worn bearing inside the engine/transmission case where the sprocket's coutershaft comes out of the case.
I will check that, The first chain I ordered ended up back ordered. New chain in hand picking up the breaker/press tomarow. I wouldn't think that the bearing would be bad with 16,000 miles but I will check. I HOPE to be heading on a 5,000 mile ride out to CO & back in a week & a half.
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I'm a huge fan of that Teflon spray you get at Lowes. Works very well and quiets the chain down.
To be honest I have 3 bike & have never had any chain issues other then stretching to the point that I replaced it. I bought a can of the dupont teflon spray & have had chain issues on all 3 bikes. 2 frozen links & now this. I'm not going to say that the teflon caused the problem, it's just odd within 1,000 miles of using it all 3 started having issues.
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Ok I'll try to describe this as good as I can. I have a 02 XX with 16,000 on it, 12,000 of those were in the past 11 months. I have used honda chain wax on the chain since I bought the bike last june. The chain appears to have a bad link or somthing of that nature although I can't see, feal or find any problem with the chain. There is a noise coming from the area of the front sproket that sounds like a frozen link. But I don't see a frozen link. It is loud at slower speeds especially under load. I can also feel it in the left foot peg. It has gotten progressivly worse. I have pulled the front sprocket cover & the sprocket looks perfect. No noticable where at all. Both sprockets appear to be tight & have no signs of wear. I have ordered a new chain & sprocket set. But if anyone has any ideas I open for your thoughts.
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The way I do mine is...
For the hand brake (front brakes) front left outer - front right outer
For the pedal brake. Front right center - Front left center - rear center - rear outer
Even after his passing he is still helping. This worked great!
Timmmmaaaaay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad to see ya poppin' in man! Can I break out the infamous potato gun/beard burning incident video now???
Go for it
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The way I do mine is...
For the hand brake (front brakes) front left outer - front right outer
For the pedal brake. Front right center - Front left center - rear center - rear outer
Even after his passing he is still helping. This worked great!
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>>>> DO NOT REPLY TO THIS E-MAIL! YOUR REPLY WILL NOT BE RECEIVED!
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Code Name Quantity Price/Ea. Total
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16011 Symtec Motorcycle Grip Heater Kit with toggle switch 1
TMFH&AHR2-H Throttlemeister - Heavy for Most Honda Sportbikes 1
finish: Standard
440-01 Sunline Grand Touring Grips 1 $
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For what it's worth these people are liars. I call to confirm that all this Stuff was in stock & it would be shipped the same day they confirmed & guess what I get screwed again. So please do not do business with California Sport Touring. I cut off my grips & preped the bars for the throttlemeisers. So no Bird for the weekend!
Brake bleeding
in The Garage
Posted
Fixxed
I took the front wheel back off, pulled the pads, & pumped the MC & the pistons one at a time extended. I then pushed the pistons back in one at a time & set the pads back in. Pumped the MC & I suddenly had full lever :icon_think: . After reassembling the front end I still had full lever. Checked the MC & it was 3/4 low. Filled it back up & I'm back in business. I'm not sure where the bubble was or how it came out but I'm back in business.