ironmike
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Posts posted by ironmike
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I'm always tempted to suspect the PC... But the logical test would be to temporarily install a known good tach and see if the symptoms persist. Then I'd remove the PC and repeat the test with each tach; if they're both good, I think you can safely assume the PC has issues... BTW, it's extremely rare for the ECM to go bad - considering the replacement cost, that's a good thing.
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Hmmm... I thought they were all the same width... I'm pretty sure the pans are the same.
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Aside from the other advice you're getting (which is pretty good by the way), you may be on to something re: the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)... I understand (from anecdotal sources) that poor fuel quality - especially that with ethanol/methanol/etc... additives - may be the suspected culprit.
The FPR can go bad slowly or all at once - it depends on how severely the internal diaphragm may be compromised. If the membrane merely has pin hole(s) it tends to act up more slowly as pressure rises - and demand (engine load) increases. Symptoms can include throttle lag, sputtering, rough idle, and even sudden recovery under acceleration (like it cleared its throat and woke up!). If the membrane is further deteriorating (and it will...) you can forget the any sudden recovery incidents, and the residual symptoms only get worse - like it's running way too rich. If the membrane is fully torn/compromised, the vent lines flood with raw fuel and eventually flood the combustion chambers; that's why checking for raw fuel in the vent lines is a sure testing protocol. You typically lose cylinders 2 & 3 first - flooded, drowned plugs, cold exhaust headers (2 & 3 - if 1 & 4 are still running - don't try to touch!). In a worst case scenario, you can hydro-lock the engine with raw fuel - it will bypass the rings and contaminate the oil.
The fix is relatively easy. The FPR is on the right end of the fuel rail (Lift the tank and it's right there). Disconnect, unbolt, replace with a new FPR, and ride. It's really that simple. Oh yeah, if you suspect any fuel may have gotten into the oil - I strongly recommend an oil/filter change before you ride.
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Check the simple stuff first.
New battery? Did you bench charge it before installation? If not, remove and do so... (search is your friend) and reinstall.
Locate and examine all ground points; be thorough in assuring good grounds.
Ride & test.
If problem persists, remove PCII from system.
Ride & test.
If problem persists, consider doing the "loom fix"... (search is still your friend).
Ride & test.
If problem persists, check R/R and alt output... (search etc...) if warranted, replace malfunctioning component.
Ride & test.
If problem persists, perform continuity tests on wiring harness - an intermittent short can be a bitch to find, so be patient.
I'm sure there may be other potential issues, but these are the most likely culprits in the order of frequency of occurrence (notwithstanding that any glitch/issue with the XX is statistically pretty rare, despite the increasing age of the model). Other experienced owners may add their own anecdotal suggestions and recommendations as well. Just remember to always consider the simple things first - and the last thing you messed with... Best of Luck!
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Assuming you're talking about an electric rather than a gas powered compressor, you're going to be looking at something at or above 5HP, dual phase, w/60-80 gal tank if you need 17cfm @90psi... and those units are typically professional grade costing a grand+... Hers some links...
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/shopbycfm.php
http://www2.northerntool.com/air-compressor-buyers-guide.htm
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...catalogId=10053
I can understand your disappointment with the Sears offerings - IMHO, they have seriously slipped in quality. I have one of their old ones (1979) made by DeVilbiss for Sears (5HP, 2 cylinder, 230v) in my shop that still runs well, but I'm not impressed with the current models from Sears. From what I've seen lately most of their compressors are apparently manufactured in China, Korea, etc...
I'm thinking about picking up a smaller unit for routine usage, and at the moment the lead contender is from Home Depot...
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh4...catalogId=10053
Best of luck in your quest!
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'Thought I had a pair of mesh Fieldsheers in Black, but I checked and they're size 38... 'Sorry Dave...
Let me know if you do decide to buy new mesh gear - I'm thinking about it, too. My problem is that I really need to have stuff made (I'm hard to fit; short, barrel-chested w/big shoulders - too many years in the gym). I'm currently leaning toward Motoport/cycleport and their kevlar mesh line. I'm asking around, but haven't gotten much feedback yet...
Oops - 'just saw that you pulled the trigger on some overpants... 'Hope they work out for you.
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Obviously, this must be a cult bike with a passionate following...
...heh-heh... :icon_eyebrows:
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Hmmm, proceed with caution...
Can't really tell from the pic quality, but is that a Texas registration plate?
And where is the required inspection sticker that's usually affixed to a plate just below the tag?
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I too have a 2001 and am interested. Can you send a list (and prices)..?
PM me or e-mail...
ironmikezero@att.net
Thanks, Scott...
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I have a '99 in my collection with similarly low mileage - and no issues. I wouldn't hesitate to pick up such a pristine example as this... in fact I'd be sorely tempted if circumstances were otherwise.
I was toying with the idea of getting another XX for the other home in San Antonio, but it seems the fates doth conspire - too slim of coin and too fat of geography - that'd be a 1600 mile round trip I just can't make happen right now...
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Been having problems with my water softener lately. It began when I had the well pump replaced, they bypassed the softener when they fired everything back up and never turned it back "on". I didn't realize this until later, after I had played with all the knobs and buttons trying to get it to do something, anything.
So, it now works fine and will rinse/regenerate manually no problem. But whatever settings those dials are supposed to be on are completely hosed by me dicking around with them. Any advice? House is ~3,200 s/f, 2.5 bath, family of four, if any of that matters.
No paperwork, manual, owner's guide..?
Then, I suspect you're gonna need some guidance from the unit's manufacturer or local authorized dealer. There are a number of variables involved (incoming pressure, line size, unit capacity, flow rate, etc.) that you can pretty well estimate, but knowing the exact values is a better way to go. You can probably have the local guy (authorized dealer/installer) talk you through a baseline setting over a phone... I'd sure try that first... Best of luck!
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Couldn't resist, Todd... It gets so boring at those ad hoc Bindenburg meetings...
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The kicker..? All the federal energy incentives don't apply because it's a second (vacation) home...
Thank you very much, Mr. President...
You obviously don't need a tax break because you have too much money already to be able to afford a second home. And the money you have you must have gotten by oppressing the poor and minorities.
...Of course, from my years at Exxon... now where did I leave that Madoff secret signet ring..?
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I was in the same boat, thinking I had to replace a few poorly functioning windows... Cost was going to be considerable for replacements (custom builds, as the OEM windows were now obsolete). The more I looked into it, the more I realized all the windows in the house were no longer up to snuff... and it's big house with 31 windows.
There's really very few options, so I'm biting the bullet - all new vinyl double hung, argon filled, low-E glass, energy star rated, lifetime warranty, etc... about $16K installed.
The kicker..? All the federal energy incentives don't apply because it's a second (vacation) home...
Thank you very much, Mr. President...
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Had the same problem (lower element inoperative)... Turned out to be the first hint of a trace leak that shorted out the lower element housing (or whatever the proper nomenclature is) that I didn't address in a timely fashion - bad mistake... subsequent flood... Fix was a new water heater. I wish I had acted sooner - less grief and expense.
"Water always wins." - Doctor Who
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Will the 190 make that much of a difference??200 will hit the chain. A 190 will will fit, but will also make it handle like crap.
Redbird offers sage advice; listen to him.
It'll make a difference for certain, but the degree to which it'll be noticed will be relatively proportionate to the sensitivity, situational awareness, and skill level of the rider. Those who know their bikes intimately will readily perceive the subtle degradation of precision in handling characteristics.
Sometimes other folks don't really care; they just like the looks of a fatter tire. It's the old form vs function debate... of course, YMMV...
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+1 on a grounding issue...
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alright I can't let this go, they are not, they have different part numbers and wiring looms, and pc's and programs for the pc's.
Yeah, I know... I'm just passing on some anecdotal experience... YMMV...
BTW, I kept my original ECU on my '99 after we found an internally corroded wire in the harness near the aft ground.
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FYI... a Honda tech advised that the ECUs on US models from '99 through '03 are actually interchangeable... He then placed an '03 on my '99 XX to help chase an electrical gremlin (both ECUs were fine, BTW).
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Sounds like a serious short... terminals/cables/connections are a good place to start... are the fuses okay..?
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Old gas..?
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It's gotta be something relatively simple... Assuming you have a shop manual...
Have you (or anyone) messed with the ignition timing..? Stock advance setting..? Dial it in to factory specs before you go on any gremlin hunts...
Assuming you've run the other suggested tests, it sounds like the intermediate range on your carburetor(s) is way off... What do your plugs look like - dark/sooty (rich), or too clean/glazed (lean)...? And most importantly, do they all look the same..?
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A vacuum leak is the only thing I could figure...but the cap thing is something else...umm gonna have to get a key made!!
- You don't have the key..? Sounds like something you're gonna have to do anyway...
By venting do you mean a clog in a vent tube? I do need to install vent lines because while I have been trying to figure this out I have left them off completely.
- A clog or a bent vent tube... and if your lines aren't installed, check them for clear air flow and reinstall... What you're looking for is a vacuum developing in the fuel tank - that'll be the result of poor/ineffective venting.
as for the diaphragm, the old one was intact but I replaced it anyway. It appears that it may be leaking from the filter/O-ring. Thats all I can see from the fiche.
- I'd double check the petcock reassembly, and then replace the filter/O-ring...
I have some replacement intake boots I am going to try as well.
- Try the WD-40 trick first...
Remember this - trouble shooting your engine is a lot like making a medical diagnosis; and the same cautionary rule should apply... FIRST, DO NO HARM... Analyze the symptoms, isolate the probable cause, and treat ONE THING AT A TIME... in your quest for a cure. Lastly, take notes; what you did, what worked and what didn't... And a word of advice - Save your notes - history has a most annoying way of repeating itself.
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An idle that erratic can be a classic case of an intake leak... try spraying some WD-40 around the base of each carb at an idle - if you get a surge in rpm you've found an air leak. Once fixed, check again - you may have more than a single leak.
Another thought - Does the idle smooth out if you open the fuel cap..? If so, there's likely a vacuum forming in the tank due to a venting issue (that might account for falling off power in the mid range as well).
I'd still be suspicious about the integrity of the petcock... the diaphragm doesn't like exposure to any alcohol mixed fuel...
Seat Latch broke? Help...
in The Garage
Posted
Just a hunch... Try spraying a liberal amount of WD40 in the lock - it'll hopefully flush any debris or gunk out (wipe any drips - especially off the tire). When you try to rotate the key, push down on the rear of the seat (right above the u-bracket where it's caught by the latch).