ironmike
-
Posts
1,924 -
Joined
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by ironmike
-
-
Which model; Chief, Scout, 4..? The market's a little soft at this time and restorations aren't bringing those kinds of numbers unless there's something really special about them...
-
I'd suspect a loose connection or a poor ground... it sure sounds like one of those frustrating electrical gremlins that you've gotta hunt for. The clock shouldn't put that much of a drain on the stored charge. Break out the multimeter and start probing each and every circuit - 'sorry, but there's no assured short-cut in this sort of hunt that I'm aware of. FWIW, I'd keep a smart trickle charger on it when it's in storage.
-
We had to replace our roof in San Antonio in '09. After it was installed and new insulation blown in (R-60), a contractor providing a similar radiant barrier (roof/attic application) made an inspection in preparation of an estimate. He was candid and admitted that it wouldn't be cost effective in our case. I appreciated his honesty. The extra insulation and an efficient soffit/ridge vent system made a drastic difference in keeping the house warm/cool.
-
I suspect the battery - especially if it wasn't fully bench charged before it went into the (first) bike...
-
I'd say yes... with the blue you can always get the stud out again without too much trouble. On some engines I've gone right to the red (knowing I'd probably never want to remove them again). On some heads that may have been questionable (porosity, etc.) I've even gone to heli-coils first, and then the appropriate thread locker - never had to do that on an XX.
-
Had the same issue with my XX and my GL1800 (same linked brake system). It can be enormously frustrating, but the actual physics are pretty basic. If the pedal is soft, the problem is, as you suspect, a trace of air in the system. Liquid cannot compress, but air can and will.
The most likely locations are in the vicinity of the left front caliper auxiliary master cylinder - the highest point of the rear system. The only fix that I've found that works is to repeatedly bleed the system following the shop manual instructions religiously (the proper sequence is critical). In my experience, three to five attempts usually usually get's 'er done. Patience is the key.
Sometimes waiting a day between bleeding sessions helps, but that may be more psychologically soothing than mechanically effective.
-
Intermittent poor ground? Loose connector?
-
Off the top of my head, I'm thinking a broken ring & scored cylinder wall... pretty unlikely your electrical problem caused it. But I'm sure you're gonna find out. Good Luck!
-
Frequently asked questions,
Possible solutions are many,
Results may very,
?
EVLXX is giving you an excellent hint - check the integrity of the Fuel Pressure Regulator diaphragm. Anecdotal evidence strongly suggests that ethanol laced fuel has an incremental and cumulatively deleterious effect on the diaphragm - even a mere pinhole will negatively impact fuel mileage. Once compromised the diaphragm will eventually fail. Any trace of raw fuel in any of the the vent lines is a corroborative symptom. The fix is to replace the FPR; easily done since the FPR is at the end of the fuel rail (right side).
-
Not excessive heat - warmth maybe... Odds are the reg/rectifier is toast - more likely than a bad stator (although that can happen). Good advice to search/read related posts - there's not much in this regard that hasn't been discussed in great detail. Be patient and thorough; the charging system on the 'Bird isn't that complicated.
-
Was the bike level (centerstand) or tilted (sidestand)? Pooling residual oil (rings/cylinder wall/valve seals) can impact the readings.
As I recall, the reason a warm engine (normal operating temp) was recommended was so that the oil had been thoroughly cycled, and the heat retained in the rings/cylinder walls assured a good (or at least the best possible) seal. Compression readings would then reflect conditions as close to "running" as possible. Then we'd let the engine cool to the ambient temp and conduct a leak down test (compressed air). Evaluating the results of both tests could give us the best data, a sort of conceptual x-ray - short of a complete tear down and getting busy with the micrometers.
I wouldn't be overly concerned with a cold compression differential of approx 11%... assuming you feel the bike is running okay. You could most likely find that differential significantly diminishing with a warm motor.
-
You might find this link helpful...
-
Read the specs that came with the trickle charger.
Many or most are "smart" chargers that stop sending the full 1.5A/hr (or whatever the unit's inherent charging rate is) when a full charge is reached and reduce it to a minimal "floating charge" of just a few milliamps (thousandths of an amp). These you can safely leave hooked up whenever she's parked.
If the paperwork doesn't reference the above ability, assume you can't leave it hooked up - it could probably cook the battery given enough time and inattention.
-
The solution is fairly simple (assuming all is well with the bottom end); it sounds like you'll need a top end job - pistons/rings, assess and address valves/seats (replace/ resurface as needed), and new gaskets where appropriate. It's not an impossible situation, but you may have to do some parts chasing... Best of luck!
Thanks. Any suggestions on part sources? Or maybe I just sell her and get a stocker, but I would rather not start over.
Yep, answered in your other thread (re:cam/head part numbers)...
-
Here's a link to a parts fiche... (Ron Ayer's site - good resource!)
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module.../Group/CAMSHAFT
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module...p/CYLINDER_HEAD
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module...roup/CRANKSHAFT
Part numbers do not always appear on the specific part; they're usually on its packaging.
-
The solution is fairly simple (assuming all is well with the bottom end); it sounds like you'll need a top end job - pistons/rings, assess and address valves/seats (replace/ resurface as needed), and new gaskets where appropriate. It's not an impossible situation, but you may have to do some parts chasing... Best of luck!
-
Yeah, Royal Purple (full-syn) 10w-40 or 20w-50 dependent upon seasonal weather in the Deep South. I've used it in all my bikes and never had an issue. I generally will use Mobil 1 in my cars (2 G35s, Audi Quattro) and damn near anything in my '84 E250 - it's not too picky. I do 100% of the maintenance.
-
It might be wise to still check your grounds and load test the battery... If it's not electrical - assuming the R/R is OK - I'm leaning more toward a fuel delivery issue. As tomek and Supermarine already mentioned, the FPR seems to be increasingly problematic (likely thanks to alcohol laced fuels), and thus the weak link in the fuel chain. As far as I know, fuel pump failures are exceedingly rare; so I'd start looking for the usual FPR symptomatic tell-tales (ragged running, flooding, periodic loss of spark in one or more cylinders, raw fuel in the vent lines, etc.).
-
I'd be suspicious of that "new" battery... and load test it. Was it fully bench charged prior to installation? The kind of erratic running symptoms you've described can easily be attributed to a battery issue (e.g., adequate surface charge, but insufficient actual capacity). The fact that it's the only thing that's been recently changed merits a close look...
Never overlook the simple or obvious stuff. Most gremlins are usually far more simple than we tend to imagine - don't let the frustration factor fuel conceivable fixes. That can unnecessarily exacerbate any problem.
-
Gotta agree with John... the standard Philips H7 (as stock) is the band-aid - HID is the cure...
-
I've found it to be a significant improvement in comfort - more than I was expecting. The brake & shifter arms' adjustments compensate adequately, depending on your boot size, of course. The only issue I've found is that the sidestand, when in the "UP" position, will contact the (lowered) left footpeg, and is subsequently depressed about 3/16" (.48cm); but nonetheless, it does not activate the sidestand switch.
-
Now I'm even more suspicious of the battery... A new battery (properly bench charged, per instructions/rate found on sticker on battery top, prior to installation) may be your best - and cheapest - bet. At least it'd be one issue you'd know was right if the problem persists; and, it'd be the best baseline for further electrical testing (gremlin hunting).
-
I'd get a bit suspicious of a supposedly fully charged battery that registers (at rest or idle) less than 12.8v without any load... The readings at 2000/5000 suggest to me that the alt and R/R are working as intended. How old is the battery, and was it fully bench charged before installation..?
-
Yeah, location would be a great help...
And I, for one, would definitely like to hear more about your Indians...
Surging
in The Garage
Posted
FWIW... This may seem counter-intuitive, but check the condition/adjustment of the drive chain. A drive chain in deteriorating condition or out of adjustment can manifest symptoms that sometimes mimic the feel of subtle engine surging.
If your tach reading bounces around it's probably a ground issue. However if the tach reading stays relatively steady, that might be a clue that it's not the engine.