ironmike
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Posts posted by ironmike
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The wrap won't burn at normally expected temps - oil saturation changes that dynamic, as you might expect, but oil leaks are not common on the XX and any should be addressed whenever found. The most often encountered problems with exhaust wraps are their tendency to hold moisture if gotten wet (riding in the rain, etc.); this will promote rust on the thin-walled steel headers.
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Is it hard water (high mineral content, etc.)? If so, an efficient water softener system can add years to the lives of water usage appliances.
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Nice pics, Luiz... That may be one of the best one-owner, low mileage (& apparently factory original) examples of a 2000 Ti 'Bird I've seen.
IMHO, that bike has true collector value. Generally speaking, only pristine examples of the '97 (first model year) and the '99 (first FI model year) are somewhat more desirable - but condition and provenance are everything.
Were someone to acquire it as a rider (as opposed to a collectable), fresh rubber, fluids, and other consumables would, of course, be in order.
Best of Luck with the sale; I'm sure it'll find a happy home.
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Most likely air is trapped somewhere in the lines. The bleeding procedure is admittedly protracted and consequently somewhat frustrating - I always seem to have to do it several times to chase all the fugitive air bubbles out of the system, but it does work. Be patient and keep at it.
FWIW, the XX and the GL (Goldwing) share very similar linked braking systems and the bleeding procedures are the same, but of course there's less tupperware to deal with on thd 'Bird. They still seem to take the same amount of time to get it right.
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I really like your Bird. I have owned 3 all 98's. Although the bike is in excellent condition and has the aftermarket exhaust, Retail bluebook in Excellent condition is only $3555.00. are there additional components that are not listed which increase the value of this beautiful creature to your asking price. Or is it an emotional pricing? I assure you I am not trying to be disrespectful or funny, just wanted to know as I am interested in your dad's bike, but do not want to overpay for it.
http://www.kbb.com/motorcycles/honda/cbr11xx/1999-honda-cbr11xx/suggestedretailvalue/
This is the link I went to in order to get the price. Please let me know if I overlooked something in my pricing.
Regards,
I understand your point of view completely. The Blue Book value is one thing and what this bike is worth to someone who knows and appreciates these bikes is another. I don't know if/when the CBR1100XX will reach "collectible" status with the masses but this is an opportunity for someone to get what is the most disireable XX made (IMO) since it was the last year for black and analog gauges as well as the first year for FI. I'm sure you can buy a '99 with 35k miles that is in "good condition" all day long for $3000. Having said that, I think this is a rare opportunity for someone and the asking price reflects it. I don't see many big-bore bikes out there with so few miles and maintained to this standard. That's just the way I see it. I could be nuts. Wouldn't be the first time.
Among savvy collectors it already is desireable as a "collectible" (disclaimer - factory stock is the preferred condition). If your Dad has to original stock parts to sweeten the deal, the price is more than appropriate. The one (original) owner status and low mileage are significant to collectors. The swingarm & wheels can be re-powdercoated to match the factory matte black, but they're no longer original, and that will detract from the perceived collector value.
Best of Luck!
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The terminology you're using is somewhat confusing...
Try this; go to the shop manual (available on this site; link provided http://www.cbr1100xx.org/files/reference/CBR1100XX_Shop_Manual.pdf ) and review section 5 (all you wanted to know about F.I. on XXs). Find and identify the "valve starter" as depicted in any photograph, schematic, or line drawing and then get back to us. Hopefully, we'll be in a better position to help you out.
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Yeah, any update? Don't leave us hanging...
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A month? Sheesh, that's nothing to worry about... Check your fluids, fire her up, and let her reach normal operating temp (wait til the fan comes on, if you'd like). Shut her down and check for leaks as she cools. I'd bet you find nothing wrong; that should put your mind at ease. You can do this as often as your OCD demands
. If you still want to find something to fuss over, put a (smart) trickle charger on the battery if she's gonna sit idle for more than a coupla weeks. -
So is that FPR part number 16740-MAT-E22, or number 18 in this diagram:
(Also, could somebody explain the mechanics of how fuel from a fuel pressure regulator ends up in a vent line ? They don't seem like they should be linked ?)
Right! Part 18 is the FPR...
There are two lines attached to the FPR. One, on the underside as you view it from the right side if the bike, is a vacuum (vent) tube on the outer cap of the FPR; the other is the (larger diameter) fuel return line that's located past the FPR's rim, aimed aft, and closer to the fuel rail.
That (smaller diameter) vacuum line leads to a series of collateral lines that connect to the throats of the throttle bodies. In my shop manual ('99-2000), it's clearly depicted on page 5-62 (Throttle Body Vacuum Tube Routing). Of course the California bikes have additional vent/vacuum lines that connect to the EVAP purge control valve and the CARB mandated canister.
I'm aware that after '99, there were some small changes - yours is an '02, so the vacuum line routing is a bit different.
Maybe you didn't know we have a shop manual ('99-2002) available on this site... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=32678
It downloads as a PDF file. It's an extensive (146.32Mb) file so be patient. You'll need to see the diagrams on pages 5-72 and 5-73.
If your vent/vacuum lines are internally dry your FPR is probably fine... if not, that is a problem you can nip in the bud.
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Just a hunch... Check your vent lines for raw fuel - they should be dry. If not, the FPR diaphragm could be compromised (pin hole will sometimes manifest similar symptoms - at first... unfortunately, it'll only get worse). The good news is that it's an easy fix; just replace the FPR (on the right end of the fuel rail).
Wow, and this would cause this VERY sporadic issue ? With all my playing with these things I don't think I've ever messed with an FPR.
It starts out as sporadic... but it can end up with a hydro-locked engine. Fuel leaks through the compromised FPR into the vent lines and then into the cylinders. That alone can hydro-lock a cylinder. Or even worse, it'll find its way past the rings and into the crankcase. It mixes with the oil - leak enough volume and it can hydro-lock the bottom end.
It's one of the few things on a FI XX that may become a problem thanks to ethanol blended gasoline. It appears the FPR's diaphragm may be susceptible to deterioration when subjected to prolonged exposure to ethanol. It's happened to a number of folks on this board.
OTOH, your Power Commander could be wonky... or both... shit happens.
At least check the vent lines, if for no other reason than to eliminate the FPR as the problem.
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Just a hunch... Check your vent lines for raw fuel - they should be dry. If not, the FPR diaphragm could be compromised (pin hole will sometimes manifest similar symptoms - at first... unfortunately, it'll only get worse). The good news is that it's an easy fix; just replace the FPR (on the right end of the fuel rail).
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I'm thinking along different lines here.
A little out of left field but, any chance the motor is hydro locked ?
Also, when you go to crank it, do all electrics go out while trying to crank?
Lastly, is the "clunk" a heavy sounding very metallic dealeo or more of a "click" sound? I'm wondering about the starter relay and then the starter solenoid.
This isn't that far from left field... if the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) has failed (ruptured diaphragm) fuel can flood the cylinders via the vent lines and cause hydrolocking. It's relatively rare, but nonetheless posible. Most folks discover FPR issues early on when individual cyclinders fire erratically or stop firing altogether and the bike runs progressively worse.
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Elliot, you have a pm...
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I'd recommend keeping track of the OEM levers, since they're actually a bit special (a result of Honda engineers tweaking the design to better handle air resistance at high speeds). This is one of those little-known things collectors are aware of and make a point to hunt down if warranted in the course of restoration projects.
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http://www.bikebits.us/store.php?CategoryID=15
in stock
$2.25 + $2.07 1st Class Mail
Thanks, John! I don't know why I didn't think of you first - mea culpa... The order is in (of course I couldn't resist some more goodies)...
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The rubber band that secures the original tool kit on the '99 XX in my collection broke... Typical Honda quality - 14yr old POS
Found an OEM replacement at Ron Ayers for $11.88 + shipping... Has anyone found a better deal?
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CB900F,
You have a PM...
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I pulled the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, turned the key on, and drip .. drip .. drip.
It makes sense that this raw fuel running into my intake would cause these problems. Thanks for the advice.
I have it off and I'm looking for a new one. Suggestions?
U dun have to turn it on,if it drips,then ur FPR is busted.
Do take note while removing the FPR,there's a spacer attached to it.Reuse it with the new FPR.
Once fixed,ride away and blast off,u'll be surprise to see the accumulated fuel in ur endcans.
Do you need to check your oil for gas that has run down into the crankcase?
Yes, fuel leaking past the rings will contaminate the oil.
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Are you looking for collector quality or a rider?
Mileage on an XX isn't really a significant consideration for a rider. The XX is damn near bulletproof - one of the most reliable motorcycles ever produced.
There are some collector quality examples with extremely low mileage, but they're very rare, usually in collections, and don't come on the market very often. As expected, you should anticipate commensurate premium pricing.
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Wonder if Barber Museum in Birmingham, AL would like to have it.
They tend to want things donated... They've been interested in a pair of original '99 Confederate Hellcats (NIB on MSOs) in my modest collection, but they don't want to buy them - they'd prefer them donated... Not gonna happen.
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i use this one of my cars too. works fine, just takes longer.
+1 same here...
Note: if the battery's dead, or its charge level is too low (below 3.0v I think) the trickle charger won't initiate charging current (the status lights won't go on) - an inherent safety feature. You can trick the charger into working if you jump the battery with another 12v source/batt and then disconnect the source. These trickle chargers are slow, about 1 amp/hr, but they do work.
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Out of an abundance of caution, do a search on the fuel pressure regulator...
It can be problematic with adulterated fuel (ethanol, etc). If the diaphragm is compromised it can manifest the symptoms you're experiencing.
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That bike has collector appeal. If he's patient and willing to wait he may well get his price or close to it. It needs to be (and stay) as close to factory original as possible. Any and all original documentation should be saved/maintained. Patience is the key.
Which oil filter for 'bird
in The Garage
Posted
FWIW, the Purolator L14612 is the recommended filter for the very popular (and damn near bulletproof) Nissan VQ35DE (3.5L V6) found in the 350Z, Infiniti G35, etc... so it's pretty easy to find.