ironmike
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Posts posted by ironmike
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.. on the Dunlop D208ZR..? It appears I've got one (the rear) for Christmas... maybe the front will appear Christmas morning..
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... is seemingly assumed. For those who'd like a little help, try www.joshmadison.com for the trickest conversion software.. even NASA uses it... and it's FREE..! Use his site's search engine for "convert". :wink:
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.. and the 'Bird share oil filters (as well as the GL1500)... and front/rear brake pads (types of aftermarket pads are quite prolific) as well... :wink:
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.. that you may have to lose the centerstand with some full systems. Some of the guys here who've been down that road will further advise... be patient.
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... look at your emergency engine stop switch (right switch housing). It's amazing how often we tend to overlook the simplest explanations, only to be led back there eventually...
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Not to belabor the obvious... A wrap or two of teflon plumber's tape on the threads of the bolt, with another more generous wrap at the base of the threads at the washer as it sits against the bolt head (holding the bolt vertically, threads up - allowing gravity to do its magic), will assure a leak-proof seal, and preclude any seizing/galling of the steel threads in the aluminum oil pan. You only need torque the bolt to 18-20 ft-lbs. My '99 is going on five years on the original washer with never a leak or seepage. :wink:
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Weld (arc) a bead around 2/3 of the face of the race... when it cools it shrinks, and pops out alot easier. 'Haven't done it on a 'Bird yet, but used to do it a lot on other bikes.. older HDs, for example, use huge neck races (bearing cups) with a slight interference fit - that's the reason the 64 oz sledge hammer became known as the "Harley Persuasion Tool"... :wink:
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.. if you've not stripped any threads... Wrap some teflon tape (the plumber's friend) around the bleeder's threads. Remember, the bleeder is steel threaded into an aluminum caliper, so don't over-torque. It prevents galling and it will help to seal.
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... original battery on my '99. Whenever it's parked in the garage, it's on a "smart" trickle charger. That battery has never let me down, but I know it won't last forever - no matter how well I treat it. So, acquiring a replacement, just to have in stock, seems pragmatic indeed.
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As I understand the 6% concept, that's at the crank... so deduct the average of about 15% drive train loss... For example, an engine producing 150HP at the crank, enhanced a 6% ram air factor (at some obviously high speed, value X), is now producing 159HP. Ok, now deduct the usual 15% drive train loss (159 x .85 = 135.15). So, that engine which was actually producing 127.5 RW/HP (crank HP of 150 less 15%), when enhanced by ram air (at X speed) picks up about 7.5 HP... which is down to about a bit over 4% at the rear wheel...
The math is only approximate (too many other variables come into play), but you get the idea..
'Doesn't sound like much, does it..? But, dependent on a number of variables, not the least of which is the efficiency of design, it can (and most likely will) make a difference.
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A number of variables come into play, but generally speaking it seems a 6% boost (at very high speeeds.. yeah, I know that's subjective) is typical. Some folks in the aviation field can offer more specifics, but that's the general consensus for unassisted (no turbo/supercharger) ram air applications.
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.. at "zero" would generally mean the twin lock-rings (which are torqued against each other to lock) are in the uppermost possible position (top of the the shock) thereby having the least possible pre-load on the spring. To add pre-load one must increase tension on the spring by rotating the lock-rings clockwise (travelling down the shock, shortening the spring).
Dealer set-up procedures vary, notwithstanding factory recommendations. Most shock assemblies arrive set to the softer side of mid-range, and few techs bother to change that - although in finer shops, the techs will actually set sag per the new owner's preference (assuming a well informed and intentioned rider).
By all means, lift the rear off the ground... unloading the bike's weight from the rear suspension.
Lack of a proper tool to loosen the torqued lock-rings from one another may have you reaching for that long shaft flat-head screwdriver and a mallet/hammer... OK, it'll work - but be very careful... that's not what we'd refer to as a precision instrument assembly. Don't forget to "lock" the lock-rings (torque against one another) when you've set your pre-load on the spring. :wink:
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Take a semi-rigid clear plastic tube/straw (they're usually about 10" long). Dip it into the overflow bottle until it touches the bottom. Mark the straw/tube at the same level as the top of the bottle with an indelible pen/marker (or just snug a rubber band around the straw at that same point - without collapsing the straw/tube... duh..). Now the trick - place a finger over the open top of the tube and lift the tube straight up... an amount equal to the depth of the liquid in the overflow bottle should be visibly trapped in the tube shaft (unless you've broken the fingertip seal at the top... trust me, you'll know... then you get to repeat the procedure). Now for the extremely anal-retentive, you can hold the tube alongside the bottle (even with the top & bottom, of course) and see the approximate level in the bottle - you have to remember to add the volume of liquid held captive in the tube in your calculations... oh yeah, replace what you've borrowed... :wink:
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... take a good look at a "naked" 919.
Now, imagine your frame straightened and anodized black...
Your 1137cc motor/trans... 4-2-1 exhaust of your choice...
A 919 tail section (modified as needed to appear stock)..
A flat black paint job on the BB tank... maybe with the 919 logos..?
Inverted forks (929/954) w/tweaked internals.. and a flat black fender..
The 7" headlight treatment and 919 bars...
...Me, street race..? I just couldn't... I'm so slow... well, OK.. just this once... :twisted:
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Do you mean that you removed the mufflers... ah, as opposed to the "pipes"..? That would refer to the headers from the exhaust ports to the silencers/mufflers/cans/etc... would it not..?
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... Section 12, pages 22-23; one may only adjust the backlash on the rear balancer idle gearshaft, the rear balancer shaft, and the front balancer shaft - and that's done "by ear", motor running at normal operating temp. You are trying to distinguish between gear interface "whine and rattle". You may make minute rotational adjustments (only a few degrees) to the shafts to achieve a "happy spot" with neither sound evident.
There does not appear to be any way to otherwise "adjust" the counterbalancers. The preceeding pages of this chapter describe removal and re-installation; and the conterbalancer assemblies are "factory fixed" - the only variation is three different available balance weights which is determined upon final assembly (and blueprinting) of the engine. Maybe that's why these motors are so smooth... despite our inherent weakness to the temptation to "improve" and tinker with perfection.. :wink:
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I went with the marine unit (Garmin 176) for its waterproof housing and large (easy on the eyes) screen, and unlimited memory capacity via plug-in 32/64/128 mb chips. I just slip it into a clear map pocket on my tank bag - works fine.
any suggestion on new tires?
in The Garage
Posted
Well, now Carlos... that's just downright unsettling to hear. Were there any extenuating circumstances involved in these events, or is this tire (Dulop D208ZR) a class-action nightmare just waiting to happen..?