ironmike
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Posts posted by ironmike
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I think that's a home-made tool... maybe...
If the tubing is the same size as your vent lines, I'd speculate that a tech made it as a temporary plug when troubleshooting the vent line system. The plug would be installed on any of the male fittings and the corresponding vent line could be connected to a vacuum gauge. Readings would be taken and recorded from each seperate line; significant discrepancies would indicate and identify any compromised/leaking lines.
If it's the size of your fuel line... a temporary plug for tank removal..?
A tech probably lost or forgot it...
:icon_think:
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My walmart charger is rated at 1.5 amps. I left it on until the light went green indicating fully charged at which point it went into maintain mode and even then left it on over night. I am going to check current leakage tmw after work. Could the charging system be putting out enough voltage and not enough current?
Just a hunch at this point... but, can you use a different charger? I'm not sure I'd trust the WM unit entirely. I have at least six batteries on tenders at any given time, and I've learned that they don't all always charge at the advertised rate - there are variables, and it can make a difference. The most frequent issue is slight "under-charging" (below the rated level, and more time required... even a long extension cord can contribute to such a problem) but for some reason, "green" lights notwithstanding, the batteries involved never seem to get fully charged. A session on my automotive charger usually solves the problem. The other issue tends to be slight "over-charging" - either a failure of the "protection/float" circuit, or a damaged cell/plate that won't hold the appropriate charge level to trigger the circuit.
I'd trust a voltmeter reading over a tender's "green" light. Test "at rest" and "under load". If you still have problems, take it back to the store and advise them that it won't hold a charge. They should load test it in your presence, and subsequently replace it.
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You definitely need to fully "bench charge" that battery... it sounds like you haven't done so yet.
If your new WM charger puts out 1.2 amps, and the battery is rated for 10 amp hours, charging for 8 hours & 20 minutes should bring it to full capacity.
The Honda shop manual ('99-2000) calls for charging rates as follows: 0.9 amps for 5~10 hrs (slow charge - preferred), 4.0 amps for 0.5 hour (quick charge).
The OEM battery specs:
Capacity - 12V - 10AH
Current Leakage - 0.2mA max
Voltage (@20*C/68*F) Fully Charged - 13.0~13.2V
Needs Charging - Below 12.3V
Your voltage (engine running) is fine (14.+V), so I don't think you have an alternator or regulator problem.
Personally, I never use a trickle charger/battery tender to initially charge a new battery. I always use a standard sized automotive charger capable of charging at 2.0 amps or slightly less (1.75 amps) for as long as it takes to reach a full charge. A safety circuit prevents over-charging, and an intergral voltmeter permits monitoring during the process. Trickle chargers & tenders are really intended for maintenance of a charged in-service battery.
Any charging (of a new battery) is better than merely filling with electrolite, installing, and hoping the alternator will fully charge the battery while riding - not that anybody would really do this, of course...
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Update
After 24hrs of not touching the bike the voltage droped to 12.6 from 12.9. I have no alarm on the bike or anything. The only think I changed this year was I added a hid system about 6 months ago. Is that normal
What type of charger (& amperage) did you use on your new battery? It doesn't sound like you fully "bench charged" it... What year bike..? Your clock uses a miniscule amount of juice; not enough to drain .3 volts overnight. I doubt the HID conversion has anything to do with the issue - unless there's some sort of short in an "always-live" wire, but I seriously doubt it. I did the HID (Hi/Lo) conversion to my '99 and have had no charging issues. Static voltage stays between 13.3 - 13.9; drops to 12.6 -12.8 when starting, and floats between 13.9 - 14.4 under normal operation. BTW, the HID system is not engaged during starting; it's on a seperate (illuminated) switch. The HID current draw is less than the OEM 55w bulbs (there is a brief surge when ignited). Oh yeah, I do keep it on a Battery Tender almost all the time... I typically get five years out of a battery.
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How's that lamp working with the switch off?
Admittedly a guess... water induced short..?
:icon_think:
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Your Sportster will be just fine as indoor art... in fact, it'll ensure true two-wheled ambience in your living room.
Seriously, if you intend to leave it there for several years... I'd recommend removing the battery, draining all fluids (except brake & fork fluids - although most museums will drain them too), and getting it up off the tires (frame support) - they'll go flat if you don't monitor the air pressure. In time, even in an indoor climate controlled environment, rubber will dry rot.
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Last night after work I stopped by Autozone and they do have Seafoam so I picked one up.
Do I just mix it in my gas tank or do I also need to do the "use vacuum hose to suck it directly into the carb/intake"? I'm not sure I'm confortable with introducing liquid into the combustion chamber...
Have any of you done this "vacuum sucking" step?
Mix it with the fuel. The vacuum trick is for larger motors (cars & trucks) with substantially larger fuel tanks.
The vacuum method on the 'Bird could potentially overload one or more cylinder(s) in an erratic sequence; whereas, the injection system will meter an appropriate amount (mixed with raw fuel) at the appropriate timing... Why take the chance on hydro-locking a cylinder..?
:icon_think:
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I don't think I've heard of one going bad... Have you tried disconnecting the PC2 and seeing if you get the same codes via the stock ECM..?
:icon_think:
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From a professional vehicle tester's perspective... stay within 10-15% of the max psi rating printed on the sidewall, but don't exceed the max psi. For a 44 psi tire try 37.5 as a minimum cold pressure, and adjust upward accordingly to maximize grip, longevity, and ride (in that recommended order). Put it through its paces at different pressures until it meets your performance standards. Different brands, models and compounds will render different results.
The car tire one is likely to buy as a replacement for the OEM tire is probably a better engineered and developed tire than what was "settled on" by the vehicle manufacturer several years ago... That's why it is wise to consult the tire manufacturer for the latest data and recommendation. I would never rely on the vehicle manufacturer's sticker - that data is generally found to be on the "soft" side of a given tire's performance envelope; cushy ride, reduced handling characteristics, and abbreviated longevity... and of course, it's been sanctioned by the corporate legal office to minimize liability...
:icon_think:
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For an interim fix you can wrap the damaged wire in electrical tape and secure it (wire tie) away from the fan. BTW, it's not really "wire", rather it's insulated carbon impregnated cloth. Spark plug "wires" using real metal wires are quite rare these days, typically found on points/condenser ignition systems. Electronic ignitions introduced the "resistor" requirement for plugs and the plug wires. If you can't find an OEM wire, you can get creative... There are some aftermarket plug wire kits (usually automotive applications) that allow you to custom cut the wires to length; you just need to find one with the right length (hemi-style) spark plug boot.
:icon_think:
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With a battery tender, 5 years on the original ('99) battery - and it's still good. I only changed it out because of its age, and now I keep it in the shop for chasing 12v gremlins on other vehicles... it's stays on the tender.
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I agree with Warchild... an in-line switch in the factory lo-beam juice line solves the problem... and I think my bike starts easier - quicker for certain. The switch I used is illuminated (red) when "ON" so "forgetting" is minimized...
Besides, it pays to remember that whatever Dale comes up with usually works as well - and sometimes better - than intended.
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When I turn my HID on it goes bright instantly then dulls for a few secs and gardually get to bright again, is this the way it is supposed to work ?
When new the HID need to go through a burn in phase. If you're charging system is good, you should have no problems after a couple of hours run through them.
+1... Obby has it right...
The "instant bright", slight dimming, and then "steady bright" is normal for HID... just enjoy the greater light and don't sweat it.
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I added HIDs to both Hi & Lo beams ('99). I put an in-line illuminated (red) toggle switch in the Lo beam (factory) wiring and mounted it on the lower dash facia trim, just below the speedo (at about 11 o'clock as you look past the ignition switch). In the "Off" position (dark), the headlight is off (key on). I start the bike in that mode - somewhat surprisingly, staring has become much improved - almost instantly. After I let it warm up a bit, I toggle the switch "ON" (it illuminates) and the HID Lo beam fires up. My voltmeter registers no drop in voltage. I'll not likely forget to activate the Lo beam because the illuminated switch is right in my field of view anytime I glance at the dash. The Hi beam HID activates via the stock switch.
So far - no problems whatsoever...
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You'll need two sockets/wrenches... 27mm for the nut (should be on the right side) and 22mm for the head of the axle (uh... left side). Hold the axle (22mm) still and turn the nut (27mm)... that's it...
Dayumn... 3 answers that fast... not too shabby...
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[Those will always bind because there is no place for the grease to stay. I know because that is what I had until I had the link machined out and the factory bearings pressed in.
Hmm, I'll keep an eye on it... I'll likely re-install the original link. I like it lowered, but I'm not keen on the reduced clearance for the street.
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Hmmm, 'gotta agree with Flitemdic... Got spark? If yes, vacuum lines maybe mis-attached... it's not hard to mix them up.
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I've noticed a light squeaking noise while going slow over bumps or when I bounce the rear of the bike. I'm guessing it's the rear shock linkage since it seems to be quite exposed to the elements. Can the linkage be taken apart and lubed up?
No I'm not selling it
No my tires aren't cupped
Yes, you can remove the link arm. The factory link has needle bearings that can benefit from periodic lube.
I have lowered mine with a Pro-Tek link which has bronze (I think, maybe brass, but I doubt it...) bushings which would also benefit from periodic lubing.
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I was just checking through the forum for a thread on which tires I should be looking for my '03 bird and I found one. But, unfortunately that thread has a dead link. So...which tires should i get? I'm looking for a good comprimise b/t mileage and traction through some twisties?
Any suggestions?
Mike
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Thank very mucho Javier!!, tomo nota (I see you said). Que me vas a contar a mi de los putos seguros in Spain!!!
Where can I get the CBR1100XX 20003 Parts Manual???
I'm a lot of interesting!!!
Thank you
You can find one on-line...
At the site below, just pull down the menu for the specific part schematic...
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_deta...=2003&fveh=3035
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+1 on the Pro-Tek. You'll need model LL-10 (Blackbird application). I got mine from Louie (Part Monster)... uh, back when he was hanging out here... cost me about $100.
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Don't forget to use a flat washer of sufficient width between the top of the spring(s) and your new PVC spacer(s), otherwise the spring end/edge will gouge the plastic...
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I acquired a bike lift (table version, 1,000# capacity) from Direct Lift through Derek Weaver & Co., 2950 S.E. Loop 820, Ft. Worth, TX 76140. www.derekweaver.com/html/bikers_garage.htm or www.directlift.com (866)347-5438.
Similar in design to the familiar "Handy" style table lift, but the table top (93"x24") is diamond plate steel painted gloss black; air activated (90-100psi) hydraulic ram lift, w/scissors style legs (black), and five locking positions at various heights up to 33". Standard Pro-Cycle model includes front wheel/tire vise w/rubber pads, tire stop, 2 tie-down eye-bolts, and 20" access ramp (detachable). Available Options - a "drop-tail" model, two 12"x93" side panel extensions and associated hardware (making the table top 48"x93", suitable for ATVs), and a hand dolly to move the assembled lift around the garage. The XLT model includes includes the side panel extensions and dolly.
The basic model cost me (retail) $595 + 150/shipping (delivered to a residence); reasonably prompt delivery without issues. Warranty is for one year to the original purchaser. Pricing and shipping are always subject to change, so call or check the website.
It comes 90% assembled, but you have to hook up the air line from the ram to the pedal control, and bolt up the vise, tire stop, and tie-down eye-bolts. Hardware is a mix of metric and SAE bolts, washers, & nuts. It is heavy, about 400#, so it's really a two-man job to assemble (you start with the table inverted and then flip it over... trust me - have help). Additional lube at stress points is recommended. It took my wife and I less than an hour to fully assemble and begin testing. It's shipped shrink-wrapped on a pallet, secured with steel bands.
Testing included multiple lifts of four bikes of increasing weights:
'99 Confederate Hellcat @ 495# (dry)
'99 Honda Blackbird @ 560# (wet)
'74 Harley-Davidson FLH @ 775# (wet)
'01 Honda GoldWing (GL1800) @ 910# (wet)
We experienced no issues in testing the lift. All bikes were lifted from the fully lowered point (7.25") to the highest lock point (33").
The gloss black paint is fairly thick, but will chip - powder coating would likely hold up better.
Overall, I find the Pro-Cycle lift to be well made and fairly durable, at least sufficient for the small shop or home garage. I've heard it's built in China, but I found no markings to confirm/deny - some hardware is metric. Not that it matters all that much these days, but I'm more than satisfied. YMMV...
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Yes, I had an accident with my love, with my CBRXX and this is some pics of the result:
I'm fine, don't worry.
And now.....What fuck can I do???
First of all, remember that everything can be fixed or replaced. So, if you're fine - you shouldn't worry either.
Remove all the visibly damaged plastic to look beneath it and assess further damage. Pay attention to the structural components (frame, forks, trees, sub-frame, swingarm, etc.). Inspect the engine (case, head, etc.) and transmision. Check the attendant systems and their components (Fuel; EFI/carbs, tank, pump/petcock, etc... Cooling; radiator, hoses, etc... Oil cooler, Wiring harness, etc...).
Make a list of what you need to repair or replace, and post it on this site... You may be surprised at how helpful this crew can be...
BTW, exactly how did this happen..?
:icon_think:
18T front
in The Garage
Posted
This is beginning to sound like a very pragmatic mod... Does the increase of one tooth on the front sprocket have any impact on the required chain length/link count..?
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