ironmike
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Posts posted by ironmike
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Fuel pressure regulator at just under 5 years (covered under emissions warranty)... that's it...
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...and don't forget that the reflector design is specific for High & Low beam light dispersion...
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Is there a gasket in the valve stem cap? Even if the core leaks a little due to the centrifugal force of the tire in motion, the cap gasket should hold the pressure.
I had a related problem on an '87 Vette... the valve cap had an o-ring seal that was cut (but couldn't be seen)... when the cap was snugged down, the damaged end of the o-ring very slightly compressed the core plunger resulting in a seeping leak that drove me nuts for two days on a road trip. There were no symptoms (no bubbles, etc.) but for finding that the pressure had dropped over the course of a day or so... Take a real good look at that cap... and the core...
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Maybe wasn't a problem with it before you had it try and charge a new battery... May be a problem with it now...
In all seriousness, a motorcycle charging system is not good at, or meant to, charge a battery up when brand new or dead. It is only meant to top it off from starting the motorcycle.
Everything could very well be just fine and still experience what you're seeing...
Mike
+1... It may not be too late... Treat it like a new battery...
- Remove the battery, check electrolyte level, and use a standard charger to give it a prolonged (8+ hour) charge at the recommended rate (printed on the battery top). Reinstall the next day, test & ride...
A trickle charger with a float charge capability is meant to maintain a properly prepared (full initial charge before installation) battery - not for the initial charging cycle... otherwise, a new battery may never charge to its full potential.
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The GL1800 has the same o-ring (damn near identical brakes, too). As I understand it, the o-ring in the end of the pin has several purposes, but primarily to center the pin in the inner caliper housing and to isolate the pin from vibrations generated or manifest from that side of the caliper.
FWIW, I never knew there even was any vibration to speak of, but an engineer explained that there were several types; normal unsprung road undulations, primary and secondary engine vibrations transmitted through the frame/drive train, and brake pad vibrations (both loose and when applied). The last thing he mentioned was that all disc brake calipers have a small, yet inherent, degree of flex when hydraulic pressure is applied. If the pin didn't have the o-ring to compensate, it would have to flex or bow - that could potentially mitigate the effectiveness of the pad/rotor interface, and manifest itself by an audible high frequency sound (brake squeal). Of course, he acknowledged that there can be other causes of squeal as well...
I guess I learned something... I've made sure to reinstall the o-ring. BTW, you can buy assortments of multiple sizes of o-rings at places like Harbor Freight (about ten bucks for several hundred) - that's where I found perfect replacement o-rings.
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You said you used another model battery because that was all the shop had... I think your problem may be relatively simple and lay exposed within that statement.
Did the shop properly charge the battery before installation.. ? Done well, they should have done a slow bench charge at 1.25 - 2.0 amps for about eight+ hours (16 amp/hr battery). If they just added electrolyte, installed it, and sent you on your way - your bike was functioning only on that "fresh" surface charge from the plate/electrolyte reaction, and it couldn't last. If your charging system wasn't spinning consistently at 3.5K+, it wasn't sending an adequate charge to the battery either. Dipping below that rpm further exacerbated the problem by draining off the "surface" charge - soon enough, all sorts of glitches and gremlins rear their annoying little heads and commence to drive you crazy...
Remove the battery; you may be able to save it... Check the electrolyte level (add only distilled water if required). Bench charge the battery using a "smart" charger (that won't over-charge or "cook" the batt) at the recommended amp rate (1.25 -2.0/hr) overnight (minimum of 8 hours). Reinstall in the morning... initially test systems... Ride...
Never overlook the simple stuff...
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Does your 'Bird have the light under the nose cone (below the ram ducts, on the floor of the upper fairing) or the squarish plastic filler piece..? Both have been known to get a little loose as they get older and rattle under the right circumstances... Damn, that sounds a lot like most of us, doesn't it..? Anyway, a dab or two of clear silicone adhesive on the edges usually solves the problem.
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Yeah... It's a dealership, and they squeezed someone out of $4,156 for a salvage titled Bird with broken and rashed plastic... go figure...
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I've got that same multi-function meter - works great, BTW - and I used the clear plastic clamshell packaging and electrical tape to craft a waterproof housing, and then velcroed it to the top pf the dash.
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Where the hell are the rest of the bearing's balls..?
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Use the original plate with the rest of the new pack... even if it's a temp fix while you wait for the right part, it'll probably work and at least you're mobile in the interim...
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Never overlook the simple stuff....
All your tubing, if original, is at least ten years old and has been subjected to countless heat cycles. Rubber deteriorates with time, and heat exacerbates the decline. Weak vacuum tubing can actually collapse under high vacuum pressure, choking off performance in the upper rpm ranges - and this is a real bitch to troubleshoot. I'd simply replace all vacuum/vent lines (one at a time, if you want to find the culprit... or culprits) and test as you go. That also gives you the opportunity to double check that all such lines are correctly connected...
I wouldn't be surprised if a vent line were miss-connected... it's a fairly common goof...
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Is there a special process in rotating those plates. Like removing any pressure off the shock?
Thanks
Mark S.
Yes, the bolts holding the plates must be completely removed... So, the weight of the swingarm/wheel/tire assembly must be borne by blocks of wood, or the equivalent (assuming the frame is supported by the centerstand or a scissors jack) during the procedure.
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I used to test these things for the govt before a contract was awarded... Pretty impressive for a true full sized sedan; they'll do an indicated 130 mph - if you've got the room on a long straight... The 4.6 CV/SOHC is very reliable and the police version is already factory "chipped". Expect 17-20 mpg, somewhat less in an urban environment. Heavier shocks and oversized tires were the trick aftermarket upgrades that really brought the car's handling to life... outstanding brakes... Of course, YMMV...
Edited: fixed typo.
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Gotta agree with the rest of the guys... I've done considerable research on the topic recently. Fairing mounted sliders really aren't sliders at all - they're tip-over insurance. The best true sliders for the XX that I've found, that are currently available, are from Motovation Accessories http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/Scrip...asp?idproduct=8 They're about $80+ (US) with shipping.
I have a set of the fairing mounted "mushrooms" (new) as sold by Jaws, and a set of Motovation sliders (new)... I never got around to installing either, and now I think I've changed my mind.
If you're interested in either, PM me...
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'Gotta agree with the bad fuel pressure regulator diagnosis... When the internal diaphragm is compromised/torn, raw fuel will find its way through your vent/vacuum hoses (trace your hoses and you'll see), and pursuant to the laws of gravity flood any cylinders it can access. Seepage past the rings will then flood to bottom end, thoroughly contaminating your oil... Fresh oil and a new filter are a must.
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I am looking to start reloading my own rifle ammo and was wondering if anyone has any basic reloading gear they want to get rid of for cheap. right now I have nothing so I don't really know what I need other than powder bullets and brass. thanks
You need good information right now more than you need gear... Do some online searching, or better yet - visit your local library and read a few books on the subject before you start buying reloading equipment. This is not an inexpensive pastime and will demand an investment of cash and time. It's far better to be well informed (and consequently safer by an order of magnitude) if you intend to take up this hobby; it requires precision, patience, and a modest proficiency with math... but it can be very rewarding.
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Anybody heard anything good about Royal Purples latest & greatest heat dissapating oil ?
I've been running RP 20/50 for years in my XX and my GL1800 with zero problems and no overheating under any conditions that I've experienced... of course I'm in the Deep Humid South (Louisiana) so the 20/50 weight synthetic is perfect for my applications. The coolant is Honda's 50/50 pre-mix, although at the next servicing I'm going to try the Peak anti-freeze/coolant (silica/phosphate free) in a 50/50 ratio.
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Fuel injected..? If so, check the fuel pressure regulator... Do a search on the topic - it's pretty well covered...
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I've done it on the tail section where soft bags would contact the plastic. It works as protection but it's pretty easy to see if you're close... of course, I did the installation myself, and it's (ahem) far from perfect - the curves can be a bitch... But then, I've only got about $20 tied up in the effort.
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Why would you want to change it? Just join the rest of the world!
...Mainly because in the US performance awards (speeding tickets) are still assessed in MPH... And most states that have annual motorcycle inspection protocols mandate compliance with US/DOT standards (MPH).
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I know this is in a opposite direction, but how is your chain? I had one that was stretched on one half, and sticky links on the other. It made the bike lurch. Came on suddenly because I used the wrong cleaner.
+1 on checking the chain out thoroughly...
You'd be surprised how much a worn or maladjusted chain will lurch at a constant rpm...
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General comment
Often folks will get a new battery that has only a dry charge or a quick blast from a high amp charger to get it going quickly. The XX, along with most other motorcycles, does not have an alternator that can run a tv and a refrigerator like the one in your truck. It can usually maintain a charge, but should always start with a fully bench charged battery. The size of the battery means there is little reserve, and therefore isn't quite as capable of weathering all matter of driving habits and extremes of temperature as the automotive batteries we compare them to. Charging systems on motorcycles don't just have less output than automotive systems...they are much more susceptible to variables.
Excellent advice! I'll just add that it is imperative that a fresh battery receive a full bench charge, at the appropriate charging rate, before it's installed in the bike... otherwise the battery's life is seriously shortened, and it'll never hold a complete charge. There are really no short-cuts in getting the most out of a battery; keep it clean, snug connections, check the electrolyte level (if possible, not applicable for sealed types), and consider the application of a battery tender whenever the vehicle is parked for any length of time. Some folks can boast of five years on a 'Bird's battery.
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You can have your buddy run all the test protocols he wants... but in the end I think he's gonna find that EVLXX nailed it - the fuel pressure regulator... most likely the diaphragm is shot... OEM price is around $50 (US) IIRC.
Help I have injected bird issues
in The Garage
Posted
As I understand it, the knock sensor will pull a few degrees of timing (retard) but has no impact on the fuel delivery. I'd suspect that the integrity of the fuel pressure diaphragm has been compromised. Pull the vent lines and see if you've got any raw fuel in them - that's a sure sign of a bad fuel pressure regulator.