beondwacko

Expensive Huh ? Thanks for the teaser of the 10 mile write up. Keep bumping the thread along though please. THat's probably going to be my next choice of tire by the end of winter this year.

Here's something that wasn't mentioned about the cylinder heads that I'm suprised about. If you sent the heads out to be cleaned and milled, if the shop mill's the head more than 0.010 , verify from the shop that the intake manifold being used won't have to be reangled as well. At 0.010 on an SBC, you won't have to worry about push rod issues. It's too little of a distance change. I realize that this is a learning experience for the kid and it's great that he learns hands on. I'd also look into finding a set of used heads ( or and entire engine ) from a pull your own part kind of auto recycler. The Vortek 350's had GREAT factory cast iron heads. You can find them in vans and p/u trucks from 90'-99' ( and posssible other years as well ). I always disliked 305's. Especially back in the day when the cams would go to shit or when they used a 58cc chambered cylinder head with 1.72"/1.50" valves. Those engines were almost as useless as 307's.

The PCIII USB should work on a 99'(I think) because the PCIII doesn't connect at the ECU, it connects at the injectors and the TPS.

No such power loss on my 01' I'm happy to report.

That sucks !!! Not even broken in yet and the tire gets sliced by debris. How did the PR work on it ?

3600 miles and already a "non - stock" rear tire huh? And the boys complain about the XX's eating rear tires.

The only thing I can even begin to think here is that you may have possible picked up some bad fuel, and it beat the crap out of the seals on 3 injectors. There's really no way that the volume of fuel you speak of could have even gotten into the airbox from how it looks. Even though the fuel rail,regulator and fuel hose can only hold so much fuel, I guess it was enough to soak/hydo-lock the motor? That doesn't make sense either. :icon_think:

Yes.

Hell, I'd be happy as a clam just for some polished Ti mid pipes for my Two Bro's slip on's that would make them High mounts. They don't even need to be polished, but most anything would be better than the rotating mid pipes that Two Brothers utilizes. As for your idea on the ceramic coating on various sections ( internally) of the system, I have no advise for you on that matter. I have no idea where advantages could be found if you were to only coat the mid pipe for instance versus the entire system. That's a long trial and error experiment. Too bad you are not in S. Florida and in need of a test mule bike. I seem to ride so infrequently now and days.

I've got all the tools , and the beer, but not the motovation. I need to do this as my 01' hasn't been touched. I could use a new set of springs as well. That damm front end is mushy as all hell, but I have been drag racing the bike mostly with the front end strapped anyway. It still needs to be "freshened up".

WHat oil had you been using previously? Also, did you burp the cooling system fully? I also recently changed out my coolant and changed the oil ( to another brand that I don't normally use) and my bike also runs hotter since. Not like your hot , but 3-5 degrees warmer. I have a feeling that my situation is oil related. I just got a bunch of info on AMSOIL and I'm curious to try it.

Preload and rebound compression are the only adjustments available to the rear shock on the XX as far as I know of. Yes, a stiffer rear suspension would make for and easier time on getting the front end in the air, but I'm no wheelie guy. I preferr brutal holeshots myself at the drag strip.

Ya' see Ed, I have all these friends that call me all the time to go out riding and because of that I end up mostly just going to the track by myself. Shit, even the wife doesn't want to go out on the bike much anymore. I guess I must have a body odor problem or something. But hi-Jack off now , what CX said is prob' true in your case as well. The XX ( although suited well for many ) may not be what you are looking for. Yes it can handle some Hooligan crap, but it's no lightweight. It's heft along with the fact that it's designed with technology that's 10+ years old may disappoint you if maximum HP is what you are mainly looking for. Still it's much better than lets say a ZZR, but it's no ZX-10 for sure. That bike may fit your riding style better.

You are correct about the Busa' being a lot punchier, but a bit of a gearing change on the XX makes a big difference. You say you want a bike to pull some nice wheelies. Well, to start off, how much do you weigh? Me at about 205 ( with my bike's suspension up to stock height ) can power wheelie in second gear with a health tug on the bars @7,500 rpm no problem. But I can tell you this for sure,,,,,, if you get a decently maintained XX, you'll find that you'll be fixing a whole lot less than your canatuna an less than a Busa' as well. For instance, I've got somewhere around 180 launches on the drag strip on my bike and the clutch is perfect with 20K total miles. How many bikes can you say that about?

I had been wondering for awhile what the XX looks like at "Max-Slam". Now I know. I hope there wasn't too much damage to the factory inner fender.

+1

I just love when these kinds of posts come along......... :icon_doh:

I also had a brief problem with this happening and the cause was odd. There is a "cutoff" for the headlight in the start button circuit. Next time you go to start the bike, let the start button SNAP back. After I excersized the button a few times,,,,, there was never a problem after that. BTW , I excersized the start button with the key in the OFF position.

Speaking from just a sound viewpoint, the Two Bro's Ti C5 cans are nice. They offer a very good compromise between volume and tone while being fairly light weight as well. They do not drone at cruise speeds, have a noticeable rumble at idle, and what suprised me the most about them is that at higher RPM's, they are not too loud at all. On a negative note, they could have been designed a little better as per the mid pipes and mounting set up. They sometimes want to rotate slightly but never to the point to where they would suffer from an exhaust leak. If I were in your position, I'd keep an eye open for a good condition USED pair in the $300-400 range, but I would not pay new prices for them.

Are you sure its just second gear? As a test, maybe you could try first gear at 10 grand for a couple of minutes and see if you get the same jerking sensation. :icon_lmao: :icon_funnysign: :icon_lmao:

Isn't the stock gearing a 17/45 combo???

It almost looks like he's trying to overcome a stock maping with additional fuel pressure. At least from this side of the grandstands it looks like that.

The gauge cluster is mounted with rubber vibration isolators. The only way to get to them is to remove the upper fairing to get behind the gauge cluster. A little movement is normal though. If you are getting an amount that is excessive , get the front wheel balanced first. My $.02

I just found out the deal with the Mondo expensive ceramic bearings last night from a top end street bike racer. Apparently these bearings roll with much less resistance than a metallic OEM style bearing. The top speed guys claim that they will give them 3-5 MPH depending on the vehicle on top end.

First off, check the bottoms of all the water hoses and clamp areas. Then look for any staining on the radiator and on the bottom of the water pump. One you have determined that you have no leaks at those points, ( also check the overflow bottle for any signs of leaks ) it would be time to pressurize the cooling system. I don't know how you would go about this on the XX, but in a car, there are companies that make a pump to attach to the radiator to pressurize the system. Anyway, a few psi ( check the rad cap rating for a guide of how many PSI ) should simulate operating pressure. Also, check the oil for contamination.