beondwacko

Rob , I can't help you with the question on the forks, but as for the RR pass peg bracket, it's aluminum as you know and cast. Pretty soft stuff. The Rear subframe is steel. I would have to think that the bracket is the problem. BTW ,,, how's the arm feeling? Also , Have you taken the bike apart yet? Compile a list of parts you need and let the guy's / girls on the forum do some scouring for you. I can loan you my set of stock pipes untill you get what you want. At least this way, it may let you get back on the road sooner. Let us know what you need, and let me know in a PM if you need to borrow the stock cans. They are in perfect condition. Adam

I don't mind the getting to the redline quicker deal in top gear. I really should slow down a little anyway. The fastest I have had mine up to is an indicated 183MPH, and I ran out of road. It was still pulling though. I ride with a few guys on Sunday mornings who have CBR1000RR's and a couple of new ZX-10's. Not that we "race" around all day , but it would be nice to not get walked on all the time. The final drive ratio stock is 2.647 versus 2.81 when you go to the 16T sprocket. In car terms , this isn't much of a change , but it must be much more noticeable on the bike though. I suppose it would kill about 10-12mph on top end. I just went to the yellow box website also. It looks pretty easy to do.

Yeah , I have the 16t front sprocket on my "to-do" list as well. I'm looking forward to those 2nd gear power wheelies myself. What was involved in integrating the speedo-healer? Any splicing involved or just plug and play with a little programming ?

Brian ; I did a search on the board on Seafoam , and saw testimonials all positive. My bike has had a "lumpy" idle since I got it a year ago. It sounds like it has a big cam in it , and smells a little rich at idle. The only thing it has on it that's not stock is a set of D&D's. There is no hesitation , but a little surging at light throttle in the 2K-2.5K rpm range. I'm sure a Power Commander would solve these issues , but damm , it does sound good at idle ! The lumpiness in quality is more pronounced as the engine is cold, but still there when warm to a lesser degree. I'm going to try this stuff in both my bike and my truck. If it's that good , I might even shower in the stuff !!

Brian ,, the seafoam is that good ? I have no issues with the running of my FI 01'. 11K miles now.

Helvet ; Thanks for the information. Any idea what the $$$ is in USD for the progressive fork springs? Also , what is the currency being used in the Netherlands? Euro's ? Thanks again.

Well guys , I do agree with the big point made here. The front end on these bikes do seem a little bit overly damped on initial compression. If I were to be able to reduce that ( especially durring highway cruising ) some comfort would be gained. I think that only once have I had to get on the brakes hard enough to almost full compress the front end though. How much of a difference would be noticed with just a front end spring change and using a different weight oil ? Also , these cartridges that allow tuning , ,,, what brand are they , are they difficult to install, do the fork caps need replacing after the cartridges are installed , and how do you adjust them? I would definitely go for a slightly softer highway ride, but have a better feeling of control when the riding gets "busier". Thanks again for the insight.

Forgive the ignorance on my behalf first. I have read over and over that the forks / rear shock are a bit on the crappy side in stock configuration with the XX. Maybe I don't ride in a manner that is demanding enough with my bike , but , where ( in feel and perfomance ) are the shortcomings mostly felt? I don't get the chance anymore to put the bike into good turns regularly, and I'm still running the BT56 / 57 combo. The tires are just about done with , and Pilot Road's are going on for a replacement. I have seen guy's going with the CBR900 rear shock refitted with an Eibach spring as a common upgrade. Also front springs with cartridges. I have not had the chance to ride anyone elses bike with suspension mods , so I really don't know first hand how bad what I have and am used to really is. Can someone shed some light on this a little bit please?

Deacon has a good point. You could even prob' find what you need on ebay. I didn't drop my S-10 because of the same reason. If I were to lower it 2'' , that would be that much less suspension travel it would have when loaded. As you know , S-10's are 1/2 ton rated, but let me tell ya' , that 1/2 ton must be a light one. The XX put's the truck down quite a bit.

I have used a chain grunge brush and Honda Brite. I have also used ( belive it or not ) Formula 409 Orange. The 409 works almost as well as the Honda Brite. I then wipe it down with a clean dry rag and re-wax it. I should ( and will next time... good advice ) use an air gun to blow out the remaining water. I clean the chain about every 1500 miles, and wax it every other tankfull of gas.

Pretty damm cool. I also never thought about how much damage a goldwing can do to a Corolla before.

The rear wheel shouldn't be too difficult provided we all kept out centerstands , but what about the front wheel? What is the easiest way to finagle that one? Floor jack + a thin peice of plywood on the oil pan sump ? Does the front fender have to come off ?

It sounds like a bad switch. Anyone with a wiring diagram out the who can help ? I can't swear to it , but , I think I remember ( when I was installing the kill switch lanyard for the track ) that there is more than just 2 wires that are connected to that switch. If it turns out to be the switch , search around on Ebay for another. They are on there fairly often.

My retaining clip soloution pics. End Result .........................................................................................................................................................

I tied both starters to the factory wiring harness under the dash cluster. The ballasts got mounted on either side of the frame under the fairings with doublestick tape and a ( don't cringe ) a self drilling / self tapping screw. I also didn't have to remove the nose of the bike to get to the lamps , but shit , my hands aren't small and I had a hard time reaching for the retaining clips and screw assembly. The first ballast install took me a long time ( I had to figure out where I was going to mount everything ) almost 2.5 hrs. I also never had the bike apart before , so that was a learning experience. The second ballast assembly only took a 1/2 hour because I knew what I was doing. And No. You can't mount either the ballasts or the starters under the seat. The leads are not long enough.

I never had that problem before. The only time I have ever had everything reset itself was when the battery was nearly dead and I started it. Starting with both beams on has never been a problem here.

Thanks Josh. I wanted to do the 16t changeover myself , and wanted a bushinged sprocket like factory. Now I know what to do about it.

Sounds like a battery to me too. When they start to go bad , they can act unpredictable. Holds a charge one day , and not the next. Being that the battery is the cheapest part in the loop , I'd change that out first.

SHeeit I did this to my bike last year ( at a cost of $190.00 from the same vendor ) but now that everyone has my bling thing goin' on , I'm gonna have to get some neon tires or something.

The kit comes with a black plastic lead holder that will fit the standard H-7 application. At least mine did. The factory headlight plug will fit into this piece. If for some reason your bike differs from the norm , take the male spade connectors from the ballast and pleg them into the headlight plug. I know this will fit for a fact. I didn't see that black lead holder untill I had plugged in the first lamp.

Thanks Sky ; I got tired re-typing my post on that.

John01XX ; If the 99-04' units are going to go into a limited production , I would love to get one. My question about it is that I was wondering are those LED units or regular lamp? If it's a "PC board" internally, w/led's ,,, count me IN !!!! If it's a LED replacement lamp,,,,, I'd stick with stock. Please get back to me on this. Thanks. P.S. It's sunday morning right now ,,, and I'll be heading to BeeLine in a little while ,,, what do I have to do to get yer arse out of FT. Lauderdale and come up here for a ride? Or do you have a better place for sunday morning get togethers / rides down there ?

CBRRIDER : That is the biggest load of poop I have heard about this subject. The wire is indulated because it's a HIGH VOLTAGE lamp capsule. It does nothing for UV. Besides , the lamp only fits in one way into the housing, and that's for correct photometrics / lens orientation.

I'm definitely gonna need a suspension "coach" this winter. You guys keep on writing , I'll keep on reading.