bhanxx
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Posts posted by bhanxx
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I going thru same scenerio...
After doing some surfing, the NWS is the one i've got picked out...
It has the extender on the front side to protect lower shock...
Many of them don't, and not ez to figure out...
NWS is Brit and haven't found USA dealer yet...
NWS seems to have good reports about it for quality, fit, looks and functionality...
I emailed NWS direct and they no longer ship USA direct...
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http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/photos/disp...10878&pos=-1268
I've mounted fog lights (Eagle Eye 20W) under front fender that can be tilted, ez to replace bulb and relatively stealthy looking. I mounted 'em to be more conspicious to traffic which they do help alot, but don't do much to light up road at night.
I also replaced the front side reflectors w LED reflectors to increase side conspicuity.
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Just ordered from www.whitebuffaloracing.com
DID ZVM 530-112 $96.50
AFAM 7062 17T Steel $24.52
AFAM 10508 45T Steel $38.00
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www.whitebuffaloracing.com
I just ordered 112 DID ZVM, extra master link, Afram steel front and rear sprockets and Motion Pro Breaker/Press/Rivet tool for about $255 which included shipping from them.
Now I just gotta to go do it...
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Thanks, it looked like the access was generous and clean enuf when i did a looksee on XX...
So much for Haynes manual being 100% accurate, remove tupperware and replace gasket removing all 3 bolts my sorry ass...
:allhail: Used guys r da greatest, mucho thanks...
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We are leaving on Friday for MI and will be back on the 4th.
Rick, I ass/u/me that u mean this coming Friday, the 24th, so it won't be in my hands in time since i just ordered everything this morning via ground ups. If it gets too bad, i can just stop riding :shock: for a couple of days. Doing it the 4th or 5th would be great since have both days off.
Mac broke (or did he say wacked) his tool, and i needed to sooner than later...
Pete, thanks for the explanation, that clears things up a lot...
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Can a moderator move this to Garage, i screwed up :roll:
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it was the Haynes manual and the gasket thing look suspicious...
it mentioned (and had pics) of zip ties holding piston though...
mucho thanks...
FORGOT A QUESTION
Do u have to pull the left tupperware panel to change front sprocket/replace chain?
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I'm replacing chain and probably front sprocket, rear looks solid w 20k.
I'm getting ready to order the DID ZVM (which includes rivet link), an extra rivet link , the Motion Pro Breaker/Riveting Tool and AFAM front spocket from www.whitebuffaloracing.com ...
BTW, those guys have competitive prices and give great technical no BS advice. I've ordered from them b4 and they are top notch :thumbsup:
Anyway, when i pull the clutch slave whatever thingy to inspect front sprocket & replace if nessacary, the manual says to replace the gasket.
I've read several of front sprocket threads, but there is no mention of replacing gasket. DO I NEED TO GET THIS ON ORDER FROM HONDA DEALER?
And 4 my fellow MN XX delinquents, I'm ordering the Motion Pro Breaker / Riveting Tool that used guys can use.
And Rick, i will take u up on the offer to show me how to rivet master link u ragin' stallion...
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Chain is toast, 20K, 1 very tight spot and everywhere else loose as a goose (alias Jer & Mac in a Reno hotel room) :roll: ...
My 1st impluse is to buy new oem sprockets and X-ring DID doing it safe and right.
I have HawkeOiler and use it all the time, do I have to get X-ring chain or can i do non-ring chain getting similar mileage while gaining efficiency using non-ring chain?
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Yep, mine is approaching 20k and chain sounds awful w a nasty tight spot, i noticed surging at constant speeds shortly after i started hearing chain racket...
So, r u gonna replace sprockets?
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It's a must with how much you drive and don't
clean your cycle...
:x Hey, i'm insulted, i cleaned and double waxed the f.....g front fender b4 re-installing it this afternoon. I always clean/wax my front fender when i pull it to swap front tires. I'll clean/wax that wench again when i swap out current Road for a Power, say about 8k from now...
And not only that, i clean/waxed my fog lights, forks and front wheel too, so there, nanadanana :nana: ...
And i was on such a roll, I wiped off most of M1 75w-90 HawkeOiler excess from swingarm and ass tupperware too when i adjusted the chain...
And there was a big runny dried up shit on the right side of my tank from when i hit that small chicken trying to keep up w Mac. I plan to clean/double wax the tank sooner than later, well at least the right side, i hear chicken shit eats paint...
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Anyone familar with or have comments on this product?
http://www.traxxion.com/products.shock.sho...hocksocks.shtml
Thanks in advance...
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Waiting for Wilbers springs (and shock) to show up on my front doorstep.
Have '02 w 24K, should i do preventive maintence and replace fork seals when doing job? Just checked and everything clean as as a whistle except some bug internals. Read Dale's advice to clean fork tubes b4 :whackit: it to remove air bubbles. Checked fork tubes close, other than bug guts higher up, no nicks.
Don't fix it unless broke i think? Comments?
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Oh shit, I have to order again...
POS Honda...
Gas, RotellaT 5w-40, PL410, Michelin Roads (again and again and again...), EBC HH, Yoshi, PC3, SpeedShifter, Wilbers, Silkolene Pro RSf 2.5, LaminarLip, HawkeOiler, AirHawk, ProGrip, NEP, Symtec, SignalDynamics, EagleEye, Givi, SW-TECH, SportTec, Shoei, FirstGear, PIAA, Passport 8500, etc.
Does it ever fucking end? :roll:
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87 Octane...
Throw on the Symtec heated grip wraps while u r at it. Those toasty items can be mucho appreciated in IL.
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How many miles on Roads? If reasonably fresh should be no problem.
Heat and bird power/speed with consume any brand of rubber, esp. for the more delinquent types...
Just don't pull a Mac when he tried to match the color of his tread w the tupperware, sheesh :roll: , u only have 9 lives...
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My godkid had new Pilot Powers mounted up by shop on his SV650. The rear was mounted right way, the front the wrong way :roll: .
How serious is this? I think very...
I told him to take back to dealer and have them replace tire and mount it right. He bought the tire off the internet.
Suggestions please...
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Parts
in The Garage
Rich,
If it were me, i would do both. I had a radiator cap fail on my cbr1000f and it dumped coolant all over the rear tire (and that stuff is almost as slick as oil). Luckily i was just pulling into the parking deck at work when it happened. About a minute earlier i was ripping thru the cloverleafs commuting to work, that would have gotten very, very ugly.
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I can't vough 4 this, but a couple of things i have observed (unscientific) between my two '02 birds. 1st one had oem exhaust, no PCIII using std Honda oil filters & Honda dino oil (for most of it's short 32K life). 2nd one has full yoshi, PCIII using PL1610 (3/4" longer than std since fits in full yoshi cavity) & Rotella 5w-40 Syn since i got 'er w 3k. Both had K&N air filters.
The 2nd one definitely runs cooler (approx. 10-12 degrees). My $.021394 theory is the full yoshi exhaust/PCIII is the bigger contributer and the syn oil/bigger filter to a smaller extent (syn oil should be more slippery casing less friction heat build up).
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That is something that has amazed me about the CF cans. The won't burn the crap out of you. They seem to run much cooler.
+1, i have the full yoshi w CF can, way cooler, the oem's run way hotter, don't ask how i know this :roll: ...
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Both ya dumshit dipstick, damn clueless cheezeheads :roll:
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Done :thumbsup:
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Tim,
Thanks for advice bedding in, knew that, but forgot. Will pull a Mac tonight, replace rear pads early tomorrow morning and go fer a couple hundred mile ride, that should shred off what's little remaining on my M1 front. Get my jollys and swap that out w new PR after ride. Alphabet soup in cheezeheadland again, damn i hate this job...
After that, I'm good to go for MegaXX and wood...
B out...
Hazard Lights & Fog lights
in The Garage
Posted
http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/photos/disp...10878&pos=-1268
clicky linky, then double clicky on pic, this will blow it up and u can see the fog lights mounted under fender right next to front rotor.
I used aluminum bar cut/grinded/drilled to form a bracket that uses the lower fender bolt to hold it to bike. The mount slips between fender and fork casting, there is enuf fender flex and bolt length to make it happen no problem...