bhanxx
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Posts posted by bhanxx
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Do u have to take the tupperware panels off?
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The easiest way to remove the filter is the wrench that pivots like pliers. Just bring tool up thru bottom of cowl, and look thru opening on side of fairing so you don't even have to get on your back.
http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/...h&Submit=Go
Even though it comes from Harbor Freight, it is one of the better tools in the store.
I like to tighten my filter by hand, then use the wrench to snug it against the block- very easy to break loose when you have the magic tool next oil change. For me, it is hard to get a good grip on the filter to trust hand tight only.
I haven't timed myself doing an oil change, but I think under 10 minutes is doable.
Randy
Yep, same tool I used, got my at Fleet Farm for $.99
in one of their bargin bins...I also give that extra 1/4 turn after making double sure u don't double gasket :icon_doh: ...
I had a radiator cap failure on my cbr1000f and the overflow dumped fluid all over the rear tire, i just saw Elvis though
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Also hosed it down. Man!!! That radiator was loaded with dirt! I guess I know what to douche better next time it's gets a bath. -and the oil cooler.
Get a fender extender if u don't already have one. Protects radiator from getting all dinged up too....
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Man!!! That radiator was loaded with dirt! I guess I know what to douche better next time it's gets a bath. -and the oil cooler.
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Im missing one and have a scuff on another and a mismatched one.
:icon_doh: I thought you were talking about your nails, but then i read the subject and set myself straight...
Strawberry out...
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After installing the Wilbers shock (increased ride hight by 15mm), I found that the turn-in on my beloved Avons was *so* fast, the bike actually felt a little twichy in some situations - high winds seemed to move the bike around a lot more, and high-speed stability didn't seem quite so planted.
So I've gone back to the Pilot Roads since they don't have the narrow, triangular profile the Avons do.
With the Avons, I'd be doing good to see 6500-7000 miles out of the rear.
The Pilot Roads are a bit better for me, though not a whole lot: I average about 7500-8000 miles out of the rear.
Now... if I'm riding in a competitive LD rally, then all bets are off.... this Pilot Road below was brand new at the start of a 48-hour event I did back in 2003:
Dale u chickenshit, u had more than enuf tread to bump yer average at least another +5 mph...
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i drained almost all the suspect gas from the tank.i will let it sit for 3 days then refill it. do i just add the seafoam to the new gas and if so how much? i'm hoping this was what cause the stumbling a few days ago.should i maybe put a gallon of 70% alchol in shake it up then drain that b4 refilling?see bike stumbling 09/25.
Sex on the Beach
Ingredients
2 Oz SeaFoam
3/4 Oz Peach Schnapps
1/2 Fill Cranberry Juice
1/2 Fill Grapefruit Juice
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Have any of you used ONE Battery Tender Jr. over the winter to maintain TWO bike battery’s? If I connect 2 battery’s in parallel and hook the Battery Tender up to one of the battery’s am I asking for problems?
Damn, I typed the answer and had a glitch...here goes again.
I have used mine to charge a car battery that was larger than 2 bike batteries, so size will not be a problem. My only concern would be if 1 battery was bad and 1 good, would the brain of the Jr. freak out.
Battery Tender does make a multi bike charger
I just rotate mine between 2 or 3 batteries, every week or 2 as i think or it.
Two car batteries and the bike .
Herb
Now that’s a good idea. I’m just too dumb to think of something that simple I guess. I was more worried about messing up the battery’s than I was the charger. A messed up charger won’t leave me stranded in BFE.
Now u just have to remember to switch the charger every other week. Life is never ez.... -
'Chances are the jack just broke. What happens is when you unplug/plug something in to the jack is that the pin on it breaks. What happens then is the internal beeper gets turned off because the jack thinks there is something plugged in, but the pin isnt making contact so there is no output from there either. If you're good with a solder iron and order the mini jack chances are you can fix it.
Hell, before you trade them in let me know - i'll buy them from you for more than $50! Let me know what you decide, I have a good friend looking to pickup an inexpensive 8500 and I don't mind doing the repair, assuming thats whats wrong. I see it happen on laptops alot, so I imagine its the same thing.
Jason, that sounds exactly what the problem was. Audio was working fine just a couple of days ago and I strain the telephone connection when i moved tankbag forward to refuel. It was a short time after that b4 it dawned on me the audio wasn't working (but NOT b4 i was going like a bat outta hell for some distance believing audio was working and i was practicing safe speeding :icon_doh: ). I tried both my hard wire connection (that i use all the time and was strained on) and the smart cord in van (which is virtually brand new), both ending up with identical results
Is it safe to ass/u/me if i've never soldered b4 that i'm not good and would be in over my head?... OH YEAH BABY
I did some quick web research over my lunch hour and the BEL X65 looks pretty interesting, highly rated and great audio features along audio jack for my earplugs and voltmeter. Give me an excuse to electrify my tankbag, a good winter project.
So if u r interested in mine, shoot me a price (i need to reduce the net price of X65 for my spin presentation to el presidente (there always hurdles to leap and flaming hoops to jump thru
)). Its 8500 (bought 1 month b4 X50 flavor announced (good timing on my part, eh? 
)), average condition (will get better description of marks when get home), suction cup mount and smartcord. Will include case and manual if can find the SOBs, uuuummmm , they seem to be MIA (it's gotta be in that house someplace damnit). Can throw in the hard-wire cord too if u want it. -
I would think the factory would gladly fix it for you at reasonable cost. That was always the case when Mike Valentine owned Passport.
Reasonable cost = $80 including shipping and 12 month warranty when i called 800#
$50 trade-in value on new $300 X50 8500
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8500 Audio output just went kaputt :icon_wall: , with or without something plugged into audio jack. I depend audio heaviliy as primary alert thru earplugs and plan to keep doing so.
1. Is there a super double secret 8500 setting that turns off audio i'm unaware of that i accidently tripped?
2. If not 1, can the audio be fixed within a reasonable co$t? DIY? Not worth it?
3. Or did i screw da pooch if want audio on dectector?
4. :icon_doh: Know i shouldn't ask, but went to www.radarbusters.com and saw:
Passport 8500 x50, Beltronics X65 (rated best by above site), Beltronics X55
Idears on product or where to buy much appreciated. Critical that have audio output and built-in voltmeter. I checked Ebay quick and saw some lower prices out there on 8500.
Mucho thanks in advance...
EDITTED: btw, everything else works except audio...
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By far though, I believe that the best of both worlds is the Power front, and Road rear... It seems that most of the quick handling comes from the front tire change, because there was a BIG difference when I changed out the front Road for the front Power, even with an almost-shagged rear road, and it didn't change the handling much when I put on a new Power a couple thousand later, so I'll probably try the diablo stradas next time, but will probably go back to the Power front, and Road rear in the future, unless I find something I like better...
+1, excellent stuff
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Moving to the garage.
Now i know why i couldn't find this one, da ole shell game... -
Xman and me check sag yesterday. Xman is Wilburs rear / Hyperpro front and me is Wilburs front / Wilburs rear (all Wilburs were set as shipped via group buy). They were all showing way too much sag. So we cranked in the proper rear preload (too cheap to buy hydraulic button thingy, damn that spanner handle is sharp edged, but no skinned knuckles, ez once get rag on handle) and shimmed fronts (grubby handful of 35mm od washers from local hardware store).
Oh yeah baby, major improvement and giving up very,very little in soft compliance straight up riding. Handling and feedback during cornering mucho improved. Weight transfer during braking / acceleration considerably reduced. Braking dive was real problem on mine, now what is left none issue, huge improvement. More cornering clearance is another benefit. Should have done this a lot sooner.So, for both me and xman, the Wilburs settings were way too soft for sag as shipped. May be just ours, but worth a quick check. This ain't rocket science and cheap (rear is free).
:icon_think: Only downside for me being inseam challenged i'm now more challenged
. This could get real interesting when using AirHawke :icon_pray: , stay tuned -
How are things at work?
Screwing da pooch, all i can think about is WiXX and how mature i'm going to act...
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Almost 12000 miles on my rear pilot road and I'ts right at the wear marks. Front is at 10000 miles now and it looks very good. I will keep rear for few hundred miles more until my new pilot road comes in later this week.
Jeez Tom, what r u doing, trailering da wench and counting dose miles as Road mileage? 
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Need some input on a couple of windshields. I have a ZG DB on my 02' now, and with the VFR bars on , the wind hits me in my upper chest. Doing some touring up north in a few weeks, and am considering a taller windscreen. How about some pros/cons for the Givi ST vs. the ZG ST or other brands? Thanks!
Touring LIP possibility, much better than ZG ST, never ridden behind Givi ST...
http://www.laminarlip.com/cbr1100xxtour1.jpg
Damn that's a good lookin' bike
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bump for more info...
Wilburs front springs w 2.5wt and 150mm airspace.
OD 35mm for washers seems solid.
Is there a minimum (or maximum) (or doesn't matter) for ID?
Recommended material? (or what to stay away from)?
Recommended placement?
a) above tube
below tubec) either
d) hookers
Guideline (or ratio) for thickness to decresase sag and firm up front under heavy braking w/o giving up too much compliance (compliance wonderful now but too much dive under very heavy braking (can bottom if going over smaller bumps)). What sounds reasonable for thickness?
Mucho thanks in advance...
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Worked everytime 4 me
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Wait Wait Wait !!!
I did respond to your email and explained that I do not, and never have sold Crash Shrooms.
The only place that I know of that has them is Jaws at jaws-motorcycles.co.uk
John always responds to my mail..
I have bought 3 sets from Jaws over the years, you shouldn't worry about buying from the UK. Jaw's stuff gets here faster than some things I've bought at the same time in California.
I've only bought 2 sets from Jaws
, but Hobi is right, great XXer and stuff is shipped fast... -
Running higher octane than you need could carbon up the top end because its not burning completely. Use the lowest octane you can without detonation/pre-ignition.
That's it, the bad i couldn't remember, mucho thanks...
Still can't remember the source for that info, but i DO remember i took it seriously...
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87 all the time unless 88 is the lowest grade...
I've heard high octance can do more bad than good to the XX, but for the life of me i can't remember
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1. Depress and Hold Starter Button.
2. Turn Ignition Key.
3. Release Starter Button upon Start (normal).
HID won't ignite until after step 3 and thus cutting your HID ignition counts in half.
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Brillo HH pads front & rear...
Dual Star Heated Grips question
in The Garage
Posted
Yes, but if to do over again i would not, i would just do the high/low/off switch and save the $...
I just built a better mousetrap for cold weather riding that's better than heated grips so that in fact u proabably don't even need heated grips. I ride now in cold weather w my normal warm weather gloves no problem.
The heated grips are an extra bonus for that warm bliss. I would use high to get grips to warm up quickly and low to maintain w new setup, otherwise it gets too hot in there.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/RidingAccessories.html (scroll down a bit to Moose Paws)
They install ez on XX, protect hands/lower forearms (and any gaps between gloves / sleeve) and collapse at full turning lock.
The tricky part was keeping the openings really open at speed in case u pull your hands out (ez part) and getting them back in quickly (obvious safety issue). No problem, all u need is:
2 empty 5-quart ice cream pails (i used strawberry swirl on left side, chocolate chip on right side)
4 small zip ties
1 scissors
1 phillips screwdriver
If anybody is interested, i can tell u how i did it. It's really simple and works really great, best by far i've done for cold weather.
p.s. Important safety tips, don't use the wifes good sewing scissors and DON'T eat the rest of her chocolate chip ice cream w/o replacing :icon_doh: , trust me...
B out...