Perky

Just a quick update. After researching all of the different coolant solutions and hashing it out with some engineers, I finally settled on a coolant. I ended up with Preston 50/50 mix. After talking with the cooling specialists at Peterbilt, they convinced me that what is recommended in the manual from Honda is the most appropriate fluid. :icon_duh: It was quite fun going over all of the cooling properties of the different mixtures and coolants. I spent about 2 hours on the phone with the engineers hashing it out with them. We looked at the cooling properties of NPG+, Ethylene Glycol, EngineICE, Propylene Glycol, and several others, and their different mixtures with water. I now know more about coolants than I ever wanted to know. Based on my riding style, and the conditions I ride in, the Ethylene Glycol 50/50 mix was the best choice for me. The 50/50 mix is not right for every condition, but for what I do, this was the right coolant. After changing the coolant, the average temp dropped by about 5 degrees and I haven't had the temp guage get over 220 degrees in traffic. FYI- the best cooling combination, according to the engineers at Peterbilt, is propylene glycol water mixture around 45% propylene glycol and 55% water. This mixture gives the best thermal transfer.

I just picked up a EK chain from parts411. Their prices are great, and shipping is very fast. If you haven't bought a chain yet, check out their prices. Linky

From what I understand, by removing the thermostat, you are allowing a more free flowing system. Since the coolant does not boil over, the engine is immersed in the liquid constantly. If you leave the thermostat in, then you will restrict the flow until the temperature is high enough. Someone correct me if I am wrong. -Steve

Evans NPG+ is a coolant, and is similar to Engine ICE in that they are both relatively non toxic. Evans NPG+ is different because it does not contain any water, where Engine ICE is a pre-mixed coolant/water combination. Evans NPG+ also allows the entire cooling system to run under very little to no pressure. You can find more information here.

Thanks Byrdman. You seem to be the only one who has tried NPG+. I think it is worth it, but I just wanted to hear from someone who has already made the switch. From all the articles, it really does seem to be an improvement over standard coolants. I still have a couple of questions if you don't mind. 1. What did you use to flush the system with? 2. Any special techniques for flushing and refilling? 3. Did you remove the thermostat or plug any lines? 4. How much NPG+ do I need? I was thinking 2 bottles would be enough.

I know this topic has been visited before, NPG/NPG+ Thread but I didn't see very many responses on the subject. Has anyone used NPG+? And what, if any benefits have you seen by switching to a waterless coolant. I know that running pure water with an additive would give the best heat transfer, but does the higher boiling point of Evans NPG+ offset this? Living in Florida, the temps can get quite high, and the humidity is sometimes unbearable. I know the bike will run hotter with NPG+, but will the coolant reduce the problems in the long run because of the lack of water and the low pressure? I'm trying to way the pros and cons to decide if this is worth the cost. I appreciate everyone's input on this. Thanks. -Steve

I am going to wait to change out my front tire, but I think I will go ahead and replace the head bearings with a set of tapered ones. I found this site, and they are charging $34.95 for the tapered bearings. Is this a good price, and how difficult is it to replace them? http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/steering_...ad_bearings.htm -Steve

Well, here is an update after installing the Michelin Pilot Road. The Pilot is absolutely great, but it didn't solve the problem. Actually, it appears it actually made the front end wobble a little worse. I was really hoping swapping the tire would solve the problem. I won't have time before Thanksgiving to swap the Head Bearings, so after I get back from FUXXT, I will replace them and post another update. Thanks for all the advice on this. You guys are great. -Steve

I guess I wasn't logged in when I posted just now. -Steve

I guess I should include some more info. 2003 Stock Blackbird Dunlop front and rear (2nd set) 13,500 miles Never changed fork oil. Stock chain and sprockets.(Chain and sprockets are still in great shape.) On a side note, I am done with the Dunlops. As I said earlier, I am switching the rear to a Michelin Pilot Road this weekend, and as soon as the front wears down, I will switch the front to the Pilot Powers. -Steve

No, just a plain stock setup. Nothing extra.

I have a strange problem. When I let off the throttle, release the handle bars, and I decelerate below 45mph I get a wobble in the front end. I can let go of the bars at 100mph and there isn't any wobble. But as soon as I reach the 45mph mark, the front begins to shimmy like crazy. I can release the handle bars at 45mph and again it is rock solid. No shaking at all. It is only when I decelerate down through the 45mph mark Anyone ever have this phenomenon before? I know the easy answer is to just not let go of the bars. I think it is the Dunlop tires I have on the Bird, but I am not sure. I am switching out the rear to a Michelin Pilot Road this weekend, but my front is still in great shape. I will let everyone know if switching the rear helps out. Alright guys, post up with any suggestions.