XX4me

The turbo bearings are fine. Doubt very seriously that the thing is all coked up either. Mine did the exact same smoke thing. Stupid retards at hahn try to get oil to flow uphill. At least yours has a different return point with that blue hose. I ran mine to an adaptor that screws into the oil drain hole. I still think the best way to stop that problem is to create a negatve pressure in the crankcase so the oil doesn't get backed up in the turbo. Generally with IC engines there is enough blow by around the rings to create a positive pressure in the crankcase. If you're trying to drain a thick liquid back into that space the pressure will slow your progress leaving more oil in the bearings of the turbo. I made an adaptor that allowed me to run a much larger air filter than the pathetic POS hahn includes. Mine was so undersized when I boosted it would suck all the red oil from the filter. My new one does stick out the side so there goes some of the stealth look but it has zero effect on HP. In your case that small crushed filter isn't causing the oil problem, it isn't helping, but I doubt that is the cause. Even mine with the freer flowing filter still creates some vacuum at the compressor inlet. Your small filter will sap some of the turbos efficiency by creating a greater vacuum between the compressor and the filter. Basically it means you are trying to make power by compressing a vacuum, where it must bring the air up to zero psi then compress it. It's better to start with atmospheric pressure. I'd toss that small filter and get a bigger one or at a minimum straighten it out. Then install a tube and mount the filter on the end. K&N will do custom builds for about the same price as a standard. Now to solve the oil smoke problem, tap into the tube between the compressor and the filter to use the vacuum created at the mouth of the compressor by boosting. Next run a hose from the tap up to the top of the valve cover. There you'll find the PCV hose barb, connect to it. It originally went to the PAIR system and vented the crankcase gases into the exhaust to be burnt. Now you can use it to create negative pressure in the crankcase. Problem solved. I run mine with the oil level at the upper end of the range.

I've already got some. Mine are a little different though because they don't have any heat marks on them. :icon_doh:

What Dave said. I agree here. The engineered stuff is way better. It can be refinished. My jobs are as a Home Inspector and Insurance Claims Adjuster so I look at houses all day everyday. In fact last week I looked at a house that some of the shingles had blown off allowing water in that puddled on the laminate flooring. I had to write up for removal and replacement because it was shot. I can tell you that every house I looked in FL after hurricane Wilma had fucked up laminate flooring. Unless you get the water, or in Daves case dog piss, off immediately it will be ruined. As a Home Inspector I can tell which people can't read directions that state no wet, meaning saturated, mopping because everytime there will be swelling around the seams. If the floor swells and the owner does nothing the areas that are above the surrounding surface are subject to increased wear. This eventually exposes the particle board. It may very well be that Sams has a type that will resist water but I haven't seen it yet.

Don't go with the photo type laminate flooring. It is crap. Basically it is particle board with a vinyl photo glued on top. Their definition- Laminate Flooring Hard surface flooring utilizing a fiberboard core and Melamine wear layer, that is available in blocks, planks, and squares and can be installed as individual units. If you get water on the floor it will cause swelling around the seams. Go with real wood. It will last for generations.

Mine's had a bunch of weird shit done to it but it seems to run OK.

Why would you want to adjust them? Is your engine making a whining sound?

You guys remember Jerry sitting around at NeXXt and randomly getting up starting his bike and holding the throttle wide open with the engine hitting the rev limiter for what seemed like minutes? It had no effect what so ever on his engine. That's what it's there for. In fact I say one must buonce of the limiter at least once a week. Keeps the carbon deposits at a minimum. I'm absolutely serious mrak26.

Turbo bigot

A few individuals at HookersXX had those and seemed to think they were the shit. Maybe I'll try one. I liked the stock '97 windscreen because I get clean unturbulent air. I had a GIVI and liked it OK but the wind hit me right at the base of the helmet if I wasn't tucked which was annoying on long trips.

My guess is that 4/(..a retired Bosch engineer that makes a few by hand for him once in awhile)=$$$$$$ But it might be worth it, I'd be interested to see the results.

Sounds like his was broken in the right way instead of being babied. Not meant as a dig at you, more the nay sayers who believe bikes need to be babied

The point of using a PCIII is to allow fine tuning of the air/fuel ratio so as to maximize power. I've seen a number of different stock XX dyno sheets, some ran rich and some ran lean. Unless you put the bike on a dyno and tune the air/fuel at each specific rpm in relation to throttle position you're wasting you money. If you're the kind that likes to tinker you can buy a wide band O2 sensor with a data logger and do it yourself for about the same money as what some shops charge.

PM Northman. He will most likely be your best source of NA info.

Joe what are you talking about when you say breakaway bolts? I did a write up that is on "the other forum" that shows how to disassmble the ignition lock. There weren't any breakaway bolts at all. Worst part was the lock tite Honda used, everything else was easy.

Hey Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, seems Sprint doesn't have any towers in the west. I'll be home tomorrow and try and call on wednesday. Shovel, I have to disagree on the injectors not being able to handle high pressures. I run mine at 80lbs of fuel pressure for 18lbs of boost. They work fine, with no tuning issues what so ever. EliXXir is right about smoothing or blending the cells of the PC map. They really don't like steep changes. Cool looking dash. Good idea on the steering dampner Interesting intercooler location. Good idea on the fans. I have thought about doing something similar for the intake using aluminium tubing. I replaced the stock banjo bolt out of the tank with an Earls 90 degrees fitting and then drilled out the end of the fuel rail to accept another larger fitting. Seems to work well.

Dis one Earls flapper valve I removed the cap, cut the AN fitting off, drill and tapped for 1/8"NPT.

Looks like you're onto the problem. Good deal. What have you done with regards to your MAP sensor? This last weekend I got rid of the hahn diode and replaced it with a check valve. Works like a charm. Now I have a functional MAP sensor below atmospheric pressure and a check valve to vent boost so that the sensor isn't damaged. Here's a link to Gary Evans site and his discussion about it. MAP Sensor Info I had to install a .025 restrictor after the 5-way splitter in the vacuum line to cut the volume of air. I installed the component in this order; thottle bodies, 5-way splitter, restrictor, check valve, MAP sensor.

How many pounds of boost are you wanting to run? What does the AF meter show? What numbers do you have in the PC cells for each rpm vs. throttle position? Which BEGI regulator? Did you install the restrictor? I would like to know what the fuel pressure is? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What is the pressure at idle, atmospheric pressure, max fuel pressure. What pressure is your water injection system set at? Where does it spray? Where are you located? I don't think plug gap is the problem. Like the busa site suggests mine are set at .022, but that's because our stock coils are weak and it helps prevent the spark from being "blown out" by high boost pressure. What do you mean when you say throttle body breathers? Are you talking about little holes just above the starter valves? I doubt that's the problem, as I understand it the starter valves just allow extra air past the butterflies into the throttle bodies. Anyway when the bike is warmed up they're mostly closed.

I works, I did it yesterday.

When I ran Avons I had the exact same sort of wobble on decel. Didn't matter if the tires were new or old.

Wax expands when heated. The starter valves do not richen the mixture at all, just provide additional air past the throttle blades. AHHH HA! So it does lean out when it's cold. Or......as the additional air slips past the blades the MAP sensor reads that as a decrease in vacuum and sends more fuel into the engine?

I'm working on the Wax Unit and I'm trying to figure out how the Starter Valves richen the mixture when the bike is cold.

Yep I figured it out. It's the starter valves I needed to adjust.

I need to know the number of turns from all the way in for the throttle stop screw on later model XXs. It's the knob on the left side of the bike down near the bend in the knee adjusts idle speed. I'm trying to get mine set and need to know the starting point of the stock bikes.