XX4me

It's just seeing ambient air temp as opposed to the radient engine heat it got in the Hahn specied position it had been relocated to. If MiDNiTXX confirms this with his bike it will be just one more fucking thing for me to rant about when talking about hahahahn kits. WTF, why would I want the ECU to lean out the mixture on a turbo bike?

Well I moved the IAT back into the tail section and went for 4 tuning cruises. I had to remove fuel from most of the cells. It was running around 12:1 at 10000 RPM, now after moving the IAT it was 10.5:1-11:1. It was bogging out the motor at WOT starting at 9500 RPM I know? WTF? Your guess is as good as mine. That was the only variable I know of.

Now I'm making some assumptions because I don't really know the details. If the sensor circuit has a fail safe mode I would think it probably removes timing if the sensor isn't responding. So if I disconnect it I'll lose 2.5 degrees timing.

It appears that the sensor sees a normal frequency and an abnormal frequency. Also has a fail safe mode. Hmmm?

Interesting, Thanks Dean. The Hahn kit has the IAT sensor mounted on the fuel rail which when I thought about it would see ambient temperature of the engine compartment rather than outside air. Dave and I talked about this at MegaXX and I was planning on moving it to sample true ambient air temp today. I'm wondering how it will affect my A/F. Will "seeing" cooler air mean it will richen it up? I hadn't thought about frequency differences between the stock motor and mine. Since I'm pulling out some timing with the PCII at higher RPMs I'll disconnect the knock sensor and see what happens. I only run 93 octane so I doubt I need to worry much about "knocks" off boost. So it grounds when activated then disconnecting it should work to take it off line without affecting anything.

Meaning it only comes into play on cold starts and cold days and affects nothing other than fuel?

It's a MAP sensor.

I believe they stand for Manifold Absolute Pressure Intake Air Temperature I'm curious how they affect the ECM under different conditions.

That was eliXXers take on it. He said I might be blowing out the spark. He also thought that the richer mixture might be cooling the EGT and hindering the turbo due to their use of exhaust gas heat and speed. I leaned it up ever so slightly before I headed for eureka and it seemed to work OK so I'll probably leave it there until I dyno again. I'd sure like to flatten out the line so I'm going to decrease plug gap from .025 to .020 and see what happens.

First Dyno Sheet by The Motorhead Second Dyno Sheet This shows the first unadjusted run (blue) and the final run (red). He rolled off the throttle too soon on the first one so the max HP is lower. Something strange happened as we richened the mixture up at high RPMs the HP and torque got wavy. It did it consistantly I compared all 15 maps to be sure. The dips occured in exactly the same spots and got progressively more pronounced as we added fuel moving the mixture closer to 12:1. The drops in HP at 8500 corresponds to a lag/dip in boost pressure that can be felt while riding. It builds up to 10psi and then stalls and drops a little before moving back to 10 then creeping up to 13 psi@10750. I have the liquid to air intercooler, 4 degrees timing retard@10k, 9:1 comp, 93 octane gas. Wasn't spraying water here at all.

He said his was stock other than a K&N filter.

Here are the two I've recieved so far. Thanks KCbird and daveszx302 As you can see there is some discrepency in the air fuel ratio between the two. Neat how the HP and torque curves are so similar though.

You probably won't need a new barrel unless something broke off. Once you get it apart you'll see how it works, it isn't rocket science.

UP SIMBA!

Has anyone dyno'd their stock XX on an air fuel monitoring dyno. If so can you post it or email the sheet to me and I'll post it. I'm looking for the stock air fuel ratio numbers for the different RPMs.

Bought my Vanson jacket from them. :grin:

Little bit of a deceleration wobble here to with the Avons. Don't notice any acceleration problems. Bike has 2000 miles so I doubt the bearings have anything to do with it.

I know the feeling. When mine was being done it seemed to drag on forever. Either waiting on parts or waiting on getting the parts installed. Even after I had mine back home seemed like I was still waiting. Even today I just ordered, and so again I wait, some parts to allow the oil in the turbo to drain better. At least I can go ride while I wait.

Yea but look at his A/F ratio at that point. If it was closer to 12.5:1 I bet he'd have hit 200 easy. Hey, by the way when are you going to post a dyno sheet? :poke:

I think the difference between mine and yours is due to the lower compression, slightly larger bore and the intercooler. The lower compression and larger bore giving it a little higher volume and the intercooler increasing the air density. If I get another chance at the Dyno with heavier springs and more boost I'll post the sheet :grin:

Here's a link for stainless tubing. They are spendy but will probably have anything you need http://www.burnsstainless.com

:wink:

Nope not race fuel, 93 octane pump gas. He let off the throttle at 10000 so the engine is decelerating above that. Thats also why the HP drops off there to. On the last run the A/F is right at 12:1 at 10000 (bottom line)

:grin:

Very civilized. Just pulls real hard when you get on it.