brianmacza
-
Posts
5,378 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
30
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by brianmacza
-
-
I have this problem both Mozilla and MSIE7 - a pain in the ass when you're logged in and select a link only to get the login screen coming up AGAIN.
Have cleared caches, reset cookie settings to default, etc... no improvement.
-
Its all about ratios
eat less, shit more
-
Ok... got a new water pump at last... the difference is not noticeable at first.. you have to look carefully to see which one failed.
old:
new:
Wonder what the hell happened....
-
This morning I went for a brisk ride, and noticed water flooding out the lower right side of the fairing...
Trailered the bike home and diagnosed the problem as a blown water pump seal. Opened the water pump up and found that 4 of the blades on the impellor are GONE. Missing... not there at all.
Anyone ever had a water pump impellor disintegrate like this before?
No, I haven't............................but I'd be more worried where the missing blades went !!!!!!!!!!!
Were the remaining blades rusty or damaged??
They were lying loose in the pump housing... the pump rotates freely, just the seal failed due to chunks of metal scratching against it
(assuming again because there are score marks around the seal area) - if the seal hadn't been damaged I may never have noticed, I guess.
A new waterpump is quoted by the local Honda stealership at US$480 - how close is this to reality in the USA or UK? We get assraped by the manufacturers in South Africa as far as spares costs go. Might consider bringing one in if the costs are gonna be worthwhile.
-
This morning I went for a brisk ride, and noticed water flooding out the lower right side of the fairing...
Trailered the bike home and diagnosed the problem as a blown water pump seal. Opened the water pump up and found that 4 of the blades on the impellor are GONE. Missing... not there at all.
Anyone ever had a water pump impellor disintegrate like this before?
-
My Yuasa battery needed charging at under 2 amps for a whole day before I put it on the bike. If you read the carcass of the battery they mention that the max input charge should be 2A - if you put in 4A or more you risk buckling the plates.
-
Autosol metal polish gets that off fast
-
One thing I was told when I bought my new battery (because I went thru this exact scenario yet my RR and so forth checked out fine) was that the battery is never fully charged when you get it - you need to put it on a low-amp charge cycle for a good few hours to get it maxed up before putting in the bike. I put my new battery on a 2A charge for 6 hours, and it has been great.
My previous battery (when the OE unit died) lasted a princely 3 months.
YMMV
-
Might not be relevant, but I went from a Bridgestone BT020 rear to the Z6. Was instantly more comfortable, turned better to the point where I was touching the hero blobs on my footpegs for the 1st time ever and not feeling unhappy. With the 020 I never came close to that - it didn't feel secure enough. BTW, I ride my XX at probably 5% of its potential...
B
-
I had a similar problkem with the vent hose being pinched. To get home I had to stop every 5 miles or so and open the gas cap to get air in - it made a hiss each time the cap was unsealed.
Something you make sure not to do twice
-
wow... for a moment I wondered if this was a mis-labelled NWS item
-
You are probibly right. I ordered a new chain and sprockets today. 16T in the front this time. So even if my $700 exhaust and $125 jet kit dont make a difference at least the 16T front will make it feel like I'm faster!! Will I feel a difference with new plugs (20,000 on the stock plugs), exhaust, jet kit, and 16T front? i am hoping for a noticable difference in power, now I know the 16T doesnt add power but will all this shit actually make a noticable difference?
You will notice an immediate improvment in acceleration and response... get a speedohealer tho to make your speedo resmble reality (rather than 13% overeading due to the stock 7% error compounded by the 16 tooth front sprocket)
I'm eager to test my new slipons this weekend when my bike gets reassembled - the sound is nice so far, but I dunno if theres gonna be a serious flat spot now or not.
-
What's everyone use..........the cheapy 87 octane, or the higher end 92-94 stuff. I don't know why I'm thinking I read somewhere that we're supposed to use the higher end stuff (thought I saw a tag inside the tank or something??) but now I can't find that, and wonder if I was hallucinating.
Anyways.........been using the 87 octane the last few tanks, and so far, haven't noticed any discernable differences. I know Sam says he uses regular in his 'Busa
In South Africa we only have 93 and 95 octane unleaded (and a 93 octane LRP which I don't use).
93 works just peachy
-
This fuckwit has me worried now... I just bought some locally made copies of the Akra slipons (2006 model exhaust in aluminium because obviously carbon is the same as coal, and that burns y'know)
Is it gonna fit my 1997 headers without my back wheel falling off and fouling my hugger?
please give me the collective wisdom, 'cos I just got intimidated by all the big words and brave noises
give me a BREAK :icon_duh:
-
You are welcome to post up most anything you like here any time you like but don't expect everyone to put you on a pedistal with less than 10 posts to your name.
yeah.. it took me 500 posts to earn even halfway reasonable contempt.
-
Lend me your nipples of knowledge...
Went for a ride tonight and noticed that there is a lot of weird behavior especially around mid-range rpm's. Its odd because I can't notice it at all when in first gear throughout the rpm range (seems normal) but when I get into higher gears, especially 3+ you can just feel the bike kind of wobbling forward and backward slightly from power transfer to the rear wheel kind of "thumping" instead of being nice and smooth, if you know what I mean. Also if I am in 2nd gear and especially in higher gears there is horrible hesitation if I try to roll-on from around 4-5.5 krpm. If I keep on the throttle it becomes unnoticable after I get into the 7k+ range.
My first thought is that a plug or plugs are misfiring, but does anyone think the problem could be more involved, such as with the carbs/jets?
:icon_think:
Run some carb cleaner thru the task (you guys use seafoam, I use Wynns Spitfire)
Works a charm.
How old are your plugs? Have you used a crap grade of gas?
-
Consider this... land speed record attempts have exceeded 200Mph with lesser equipment (less power and poorer airodynamics) for yonks...
the advantage they have is a MEAN run up and a loooooong flat salt pan to get to the desired speed. So basically, a mean mutha long road with maybe a slight decline slope would be able to see 200Mph with the right gearing. It might help if you have Anson running in front to catch his slipstream tho
-
Quite good and informative reading --> README <---
-
Mate, The shipping to SA is expensive but not that bad,
to ship a 20 lb parcel by air mail, delivery 4 -10 days is $91.15
40 lb $164.95
by surface post 4-6 weeks 40lb $74.85
20 lb $48.50.
US POST rates.
FYI.
Just remember that my exchange rate is US$1X6.55
In my mickey-mouse currency that is quite a lot
-
Did you know theres actually a few black uppers on ebay right now? They will probably settle for around $250 give or take. Someone also posted one at a buy it now for $150 but I got that one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-Upper-F...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBR-1100-XX...1QQcmdZViewItem
Shipping to the dark continent is seriously expensive. I'm gonna get the upper and left panel plastic welded and resprayed, along with the mirror shells and front fender.
-
brianmacza,
I've seen a lot of your posts around where you've referred to ridiculously high prices for new parts. Are you able to receive this sort of thing in the mail? I would guess shipping to be high but not so high as to make shipping items in useless. Or will people just not ship you anything because Africa isn't thought to be the most reliable place for consumers? If you need any assistance getting parts let me know if you see anything and I'd be happy to mail it to you personally if you'll pay the costs. I'm sure we could get a headlight for well under $900
-Chris
I managed to get a 2nd hand headlamp for US$300 from a breaker... the fairing bracket they offered me looked like a pretzel (US$90) - I applied judicious force with the assistance of a rubber mallet to my bent one and got it pretty much straight. Will only be able to tell when I get the fairing upper on it tho.
Tx for the offer, tho... muchas appreciated.
-
I have a 97 XX and it has 45,000 miles on it. I just picked it up and I was changing the Chain found the front sprocket loose, as in it moves right to left, rocking, as if it is floating on the output shaft, the nut and washer was there and tight on the output shaft. It is an OEM sprocket and quite possible the original one from the factory.
There did not appear to be any undo wear on the output shaft.
Has any one run across this before???
This is not normal is it???
All the other bikes I have messed with, the front sprocket did not "float"....
Surprising... mine is held quite tight by gobs of chainlube gunk
normal
-
What will I lose if I drop 1 teeth in front to go to a 16?
Will I lose top end, how much and then also what will the fuel economy be like?
I'm currently battling to hit the redline in 6th gear, so if I drop down to a 16 I think I would be able to bounce if off the revlimiter. Shouldn't lose too much topend, or am I wrong here?
Arctic, there was very little difference in economy between a 17-tooth front and a 16-tooth. Biggest difference is power wheelies at 7k revs being easy (and I'm a little bigger 'n you) and lofting the front in 2nd for giggles is doable.
I went down to Arniston with the bike and stripies out of bends in 2nd and 3rd are easy... at sea level she's an animal
but up here at 2000m she's merely great. -
I'm running Z6 front and rear... lots more grip and far better overall feel tham the BT020 rear / BT010 front combo I had before.
97 bird won't start
in The Garage
Posted
I had similar issues with my '97 - starter would turn the motor but she wouldn't fire at all... turned out to be a failed killswitch.