brianmacza
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Posts posted by brianmacza
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I threw my bike down the road last week, and have been hunting for decent pricing on bits and pieces... The Wareagle bodykit is apparently 'patterned off original components' and at a price of US$699 for a full set - upper, 2 side panels, front fender and tailpiece - seems too good to be true. The local Honda stealer wants almost US$3k for the same combo.
Sooooo.... before I screw things up even more, is it worth it?
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My '97 had overheating issues a year ago - replaced the water pump and all was well. I found that the impeller on the water pump was so corroded that a couple of blades had vanished and the ones that were still there pumped poorly anyway.
How often did you change the coolant (if you had the bike for some years) and if so, what brand did you use?
I got the bike in Feb 2005 - it had plain water in it. I refilled with 100% Castrol brand antifreeze (which was the best available at the time). The water that came out WHEN I flushed and refilled was absolutely clear. Never did find the bits that broke off...
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Last time I replaced with OEM pads I measured the thickness - rear pads are slightly thicker than front.
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We have a couple members who have transplanted wierd shit to the front of their bikes...
Busa and ZX14 in fact... Both were awesome mods (too much bike-downtime for mw to think of it seriously tho)
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My '97 had overheating issues a year ago - replaced the water pump and all was well. I found that the impeller on the water pump was so corroded that a couple of blades had vanished and the ones that were still there pumped poorly anyway.
B
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The most comfortable all-round set I have had so far is the Metzeler Z6 combo. Right now I'm running Pirelli Diablo Corsas (I get them for almost nothing as practice track tyres - 10 laps and they're mine)
The Diablos don't last particularly well, and they are crap on cold wet roads, but with a bit of warmth in them they are quite nice. Best so far has been 16000km on the Z6 - the Diablos give me 6000km on the rear and about 9000km to the front - only severe cupping makes me change the fronts as there is still plenty wear on them.
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just had my front bearings go funny at 80,000 km. completely fscked.
The local Honda agent wanted almost US$25 for what the local bearing guy charges US#3.00
Both parts are from the same supplier - NSK Japan.
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I had a similar problem with my '97 a couple months ago. Found that while the diaghram wasn't torn or otherwise damaged, there was enough of a sediment buildup from the crap grade of fuel we have here to cause a slow leak into the cylinders.
Cleaned it up and it hasn't happened since.
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Means the diaphram on your fuel tap is probably poked.
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I had similar issues with my '97 - starter would turn the motor but she wouldn't fire at all... turned out to be a failed killswitch.
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I have this problem both Mozilla and MSIE7 - a pain in the ass when you're logged in and select a link only to get the login screen coming up AGAIN.
Have cleared caches, reset cookie settings to default, etc... no improvement.
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Its all about ratios
eat less, shit more
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Ok... got a new water pump at last... the difference is not noticeable at first.. you have to look carefully to see which one failed.
old:
new:
Wonder what the hell happened....
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This morning I went for a brisk ride, and noticed water flooding out the lower right side of the fairing...
Trailered the bike home and diagnosed the problem as a blown water pump seal. Opened the water pump up and found that 4 of the blades on the impellor are GONE. Missing... not there at all.
Anyone ever had a water pump impellor disintegrate like this before?
No, I haven't............................but I'd be more worried where the missing blades went !!!!!!!!!!!
Were the remaining blades rusty or damaged??
They were lying loose in the pump housing... the pump rotates freely, just the seal failed due to chunks of metal scratching against it
(assuming again because there are score marks around the seal area) - if the seal hadn't been damaged I may never have noticed, I guess.
A new waterpump is quoted by the local Honda stealership at US$480 - how close is this to reality in the USA or UK? We get assraped by the manufacturers in South Africa as far as spares costs go. Might consider bringing one in if the costs are gonna be worthwhile.
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This morning I went for a brisk ride, and noticed water flooding out the lower right side of the fairing...
Trailered the bike home and diagnosed the problem as a blown water pump seal. Opened the water pump up and found that 4 of the blades on the impellor are GONE. Missing... not there at all.
Anyone ever had a water pump impellor disintegrate like this before?
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My Yuasa battery needed charging at under 2 amps for a whole day before I put it on the bike. If you read the carcass of the battery they mention that the max input charge should be 2A - if you put in 4A or more you risk buckling the plates.
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Autosol metal polish gets that off fast
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One thing I was told when I bought my new battery (because I went thru this exact scenario yet my RR and so forth checked out fine) was that the battery is never fully charged when you get it - you need to put it on a low-amp charge cycle for a good few hours to get it maxed up before putting in the bike. I put my new battery on a 2A charge for 6 hours, and it has been great.
My previous battery (when the OE unit died) lasted a princely 3 months.
YMMV
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Might not be relevant, but I went from a Bridgestone BT020 rear to the Z6. Was instantly more comfortable, turned better to the point where I was touching the hero blobs on my footpegs for the 1st time ever and not feeling unhappy. With the 020 I never came close to that - it didn't feel secure enough. BTW, I ride my XX at probably 5% of its potential...
B
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I had a similar problkem with the vent hose being pinched. To get home I had to stop every 5 miles or so and open the gas cap to get air in - it made a hiss each time the cap was unsealed.
Something you make sure not to do twice
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wow... for a moment I wondered if this was a mis-labelled NWS item
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You are probibly right. I ordered a new chain and sprockets today. 16T in the front this time. So even if my $700 exhaust and $125 jet kit dont make a difference at least the 16T front will make it feel like I'm faster!! Will I feel a difference with new plugs (20,000 on the stock plugs), exhaust, jet kit, and 16T front? i am hoping for a noticable difference in power, now I know the 16T doesnt add power but will all this shit actually make a noticable difference?
You will notice an immediate improvment in acceleration and response... get a speedohealer tho to make your speedo resmble reality (rather than 13% overeading due to the stock 7% error compounded by the 16 tooth front sprocket)
I'm eager to test my new slipons this weekend when my bike gets reassembled - the sound is nice so far, but I dunno if theres gonna be a serious flat spot now or not.
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What's everyone use..........the cheapy 87 octane, or the higher end 92-94 stuff. I don't know why I'm thinking I read somewhere that we're supposed to use the higher end stuff (thought I saw a tag inside the tank or something??) but now I can't find that, and wonder if I was hallucinating.
Anyways.........been using the 87 octane the last few tanks, and so far, haven't noticed any discernable differences. I know Sam says he uses regular in his 'Busa
In South Africa we only have 93 and 95 octane unleaded (and a 93 octane LRP which I don't use).
93 works just peachy
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This fuckwit has me worried now... I just bought some locally made copies of the Akra slipons (2006 model exhaust in aluminium because obviously carbon is the same as coal, and that burns y'know)
Is it gonna fit my 1997 headers without my back wheel falling off and fouling my hugger?
please give me the collective wisdom, 'cos I just got intimidated by all the big words and brave noises
give me a BREAK :icon_duh:
Has anyone used Wareagle Racing body panels before?
in The Garage
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War-eagle racing linky to XX kit