brianmacza
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Posts posted by brianmacza
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Leaving a diesel engine to idle while warming up in the cab is all very well, but ;leaving it to idle while you jack off in the office for 20 minutes is a big no-no - that leads to diesel contamination of the engine oil because it sticks to the cylinder walls and passes the rings.
I have seen almost new Volvo and Cummins truck engines that needed a complete strip/rebuild because of this.
Gas engines run hotter usually, so bore washing isn't as much of an issue.
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I've been thinking about building a car but now I'm leaning towards a kit car. I like this one the best. If not this one, then something similar.
The car w/engine will be around 1200 lbs.
Looks a lot like the Ariel Atom - if you have build plans for this I'd be keen to take a look.
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however, you could have bought one for a LOT less than the prices you were quotedGreeting from South Africa,
+1 From what I've seen posted by others including brianmacza, getting anything in SA is a lottery and costs a fortune
You have NO idea... an OE headlamp for the XX for example is close to US$900 here... a set of complete mirrors (left and right with brackets and mirror and housing, rubbers and so forth) is about US$750 - the CARBON FIBRE units from Japan are pretty much half that. And look prettier. And get here quicker.
Honda South Africa sucks donkey cock in my opinion... the title of "stealer" is well earned.
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My '97 has a disturbing set of symptoms. Riding through heavy traffic naturally pushes the temp up, and the radiator fan comes on almost fulltime for about 20 minutes or more on most days riding home from work. I don't yet have a voltmeter connected to see what the voltage is doing, but the total voltage goes down to a point where the revcounter and speedo stop working.
I have tested the stator and the R1 RR and both appear to be within limits. The battery is pretty new (~ 6 months old) and seems to hold a chare ok. With the engine running, the voltage across the terminals at ~4000RPM goes up to 13.6V and stabilises - with main and highbeam on, and the fan overridden to make it run at the same time, voltage drops only very slightly.
So... the stator impedences are within limits between the 3 poles. The voltage AC put out between poles is about 58V AC (across all 3 tested every which way). The R1 RR seems to be fine. The battery seems OK.
Could it be a crap earth? Could the high temps be causing the stator or RR to fail intermittently? The bike never gets to cooking - no boiling over. I KNOW its how 'cos the guage says so and my legs get cooked.
Heat I can handle... a crap charging system scares me.
HEEEEEeeeeeelllllp!
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I'm not so sure about the "un-sprung weight" advantage. Remember that the inside tubes are usually made of steel and the outside are usually made of aluminum. :icon_think:
Dunno... I replaced my fork seals about 3 weeks ago and without checking, I think the aluminium parts were heavier. Might be wrong, but they are fairly heavily engineered chunks of ally.
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Because I'm lazy, I'll just ask. What's the drive system in these cars that allows placing a sprocket drive lump such as an XX or Busa engine into them without major reconstruction?
Z-Cars in the UK has an intermediate box that drives the sideshafts from a 'busa chain-drive output sprocket. It also uses a starter motor to provide electric reverse. The 'busa motor is a better choice maybe than the XX due to the stronger stator/RR combo to drive the lights/stereo/aux toys.
Makes a Smart pretty quick.
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Getting back to the topic at hand, the standard seat is still pretty good. I rode a friends BMW 800 dual sport and that thing has the most uncomfortable seat I have ever experienced - 30km had me standing on the pegs at freeway speeds because my ass was so sore. Like sitting on barbed wire wrapped around a dildo.
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On the aftermarket plastics I normally hear 50/50 on their fit and finish.. most problems being fitment, holes not lined up and paint not all that great.
I have aftermarket plastic on my XX and the fit wasn';t as bad as the fact that the panels are not smooth - they surface was rippled when I got them to the point where I had to use bondo/filler and loads of sanding to get a reasonable profile. In retrospect, original or damaged/repaired would have been a smarter move (this is valid advice from a certified CRASHER) as the time spent will never be recovered and the fucking bondo chips like shit - I have to repaint sometime soon as the vibration of riding has cracked a couple sections of bondo where it was kinda thick.
At least now my XX can go from a dark metallic grey Back To Black.
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wrong
in The Garage
move it to the pub and mark it NWS
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I'd be more inclined to look at plugs - my '97 went through something fairly similar and it was the plugs fouling (the iridium plugs had done 60k miles before they caved) - my bike has done just under 150,000km
Must say that performance came back with the new plugs - I hadn't noticed a degradation of performance, but the change was immediately noticeable.
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Cool so I guess the valve is rebuild-able?
Yup... mine wasn;t torn so that was easy. Its an off the shelf part from your friendly Honda stealership
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Chain wax is better
and save the grease for the nexxt meat you attend....
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Found a small fuel leak on the bike. It turns out someone worked on it and did not return the spring clamps on the fuel lines going to the tank. When I pulled them off fuel start running out every where. My question is I thought the fuel valve was vacuum operated? Is the valve I have bad if it pours fuel when the bike is not running?
Thanks
Mike
You may have a hole in the diaphram - I started finding my bike occasionally had hydraulic lock - diaphram leaked and filled the cylinders with raw fuel. Ended up with a new diaphram and an oil/filter change just in case.
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Rich has them.
I bought some from him two years ago, but haven't gotten around to installing them.
Can't this be tested by pinching off the pipe from the pair system?
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Or you could find a pulse generator, wick the output to about 150 and leave the setup running overnight. All it needs to output is a nice clean square wave.
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Hi Woody - welcome to the forum
From what I can pick up, ALL years have a crap RR.
I replaced my RR 3 times over 6 years, replaced the stator once, and probably 4 batteries. Yesterday I cracked and replaced the stator and battery with upgraded units, and put a 2001 Yamaha R1 RR on.
The most immediate difference after riding for 20 minutes is the RR was only warm. My previous RRs have always been blistering hot by comparison.
As mods go, the R1 RR, HID headlamp upgrade, and a 6mm shim on the rear shock mount are pretty much essential.
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I have used the Osram Night Buster series (when the ballasts on my HID cooked when my stator and RR crapped) and it gives good light.
My biggest problem is that the XX was designed to be worked on by teeeeny little Japanese guys - my hands are too big to fit in between the fairing stay and the headlamp, and I ALWAYS lose skin somewhere or other.
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trust me I have walked in your shoes!
did they also have a flat spot?
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I have a carbed bird and just changed out the OEM filter with a K&N and noticed I have more torque but there's definitely a very pronounced flat spot around 5500. I'm curious if the increased airflow on the carbed models require a re-jet.
Do you still have your stock pipes on? The move to slipons cured my flat spot. Made it noisy as hell tho...
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Is your bike injected or carb?
My '97 LOST the 5500RPM flat spot when I put the K&N and slipons on it - even with stock pipes the flat spot was noticeably better.
You say that its more prominent at a steady throttle - is the engine hunting up and down on a fixed throttle? Surging?
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Is this Dave's next SV farkel?
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My speedo is bouncing up and down fluctuating about 5-10 mph. I don't think I have an electrical issue, it's been doing it for sometime and my tach doesn't do it. Is there something loose or does something need replacing? Thank you.
Are you using a speedohealer? It sounds like the pulse signal is being affected by something - either crap wiring or something in the signal path.
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I know I know, it's been asked many times but seems easier to ask again rather than sorting through the endless posts...I'm having my carbs cleaned and jetted and is wondering what most carbie riders that have done this have found to be the best setup for power and performance...this is going from stock, running a stock air filter with Two Bros slip ons...any info is appreciated...thanks and cheers.
My '97 has K&N filter and slipons on stock headers. No jetting changes. I found the 5500RPM flat spot vanished almost completely without any further fiddling - pulls like a train. No visible change in fuel consumption, no faster on top end, just SOUNDS fast
I have considered a jet change, but the returmn in power versus the inevitable cost increase in terms of fuel consumption makes no real sense to me. I dropped 1 tooth up front and popped on a speedohealer though - that does have a real impact in your riding experience and fuel consumption is not noticeably affected in my daily drive. I use my bike as a commute vehicle, and still get 320km to 350k on a tank (20 liters on average per refill) with the setup as described above.
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Maybe link to the full "project 1200" blog would be a good start - Byrdman is gonna get serious wood lookin' at that...
Engine warm up ?
in The Garage
Posted
Buy it or not, its a given that extended idle at low RPM leads to bore washing, which contaminates the engine sump oil. This in turn leads to accelerated bearing wear and associated damage. When you have seen a big Mercedes or Cummins diesel engine less than a year old throw a rod thru the side of the block due to bore wash associated damage, and insurance refusing to pay due to "abuse", it becomes a VERY expensive overhead.
Of course, if you have experienced differently, wonderful... I was in fleet management for a long time and have the data to prove my statement. no Google involved.