brianmacza
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Posts posted by brianmacza
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I picked up a nail on my rear - Angel ST that had about 500 miles on it. The local stealership put a mushroom plug with about a 2" disk covering the hole inside the tire, and it hasn't leaked at all. Balance is a bit out because the dipshit mechanic didn't line it up properly, but I can live with it for another 5 months.
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I run BT016's on my XX and found that 40psi front and back work great for me.
With the rear being a triple compound I don't have any problems playing in the twisites as the edge of the tires are softer compound and offer lots of grip.
Last set I had on the XX I got 4500 miles out of them, they never skipped or missed a beat.
On my second set and love them. Heat up quick and hold like glue.
previous tires were M3's 3000 miles and done, shitty grip and kicked out not even pushing them. Avon AV45/46 combo 3500 miles.. last combo was an AV49 front with a AV46 rear and roasted the rear within 500 miles. turned a pretty blue/purple color no longer would heat up.
the BT016's were my first bridgestones to ever run on a motorcycle and I love them.
I tried a BT016 on the back of my XX and disliked it bigtime. Granted it was winter, but the tire took forever to heat up and it was as slippery as baby snot until it was warm.
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The particular hose that burst on my bike had a coating on the lower inside of the hose, from 11 years, 60,000 miles of riding. It doesn't leak oil but over the years it had seeped from somewhere making a coating that is of the same consistansty you would find inside the front sprocket cover. Once removed you could see some swelling of the hose where the coating had collected over the years.
The rest of the hoses look OK from the outside, but $211 for 5 hoses and a water pump kit from Ron Ayres, is worth it for the piece of mind.
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I am about to r/r my water pump. Tell me how yours goes. Mine was making a "bearings are about to go out" whirring noise. Will I have to replace pump or can they be rebuilt?
I opened up my fscked waterpumps - as far as I can tell they are not economically repairable. Replace, ride, enjoy.
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My '97 has munched 2 waterpumps - the hoses look new.
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I really wanted to get a Shinko rear, but the local supplier was out and it would have taken 2 days for the next consignment to be unloaded and delivered. I had to settle for a Pirelli Angel ST which is still a very good tyre from what I can tell so far. Have done 3 tanks (about 750 miles) and it sticks well. More confidence inspiring that the crappy Dunlop I had on before.
Please post a report on what you find when you have time - i REALLY want to know
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This is my "can-o-worms here !
I sold the 6mm shim and received the PM asking me my opinion on the rear tire touching after the install.
With 3 sets of Pilot Road II tires, I have never personally had my rear tire touch the ground with the shim
installed on level ground.
The center stand still keeps my rear off the ground and the tire also !!
I told Nick to post the question up here for other opinions as I had never heard of this occuring before.
When I had a 6mm shim in my tire touched the floor on mainstand. I replaced it eventually with a 4mm plate, and the problem went away.
I found that I can get the bike on the mainstand the N1K way though - way easy even with my skinny 200lb arse on it.
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Just a thought - check your RR as well
if the RR has problems it could provide enough power to run most of the systems on the bike, but you're pretty much on a total discharge system. Thats the problem my last RR had - sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. Replaced it and all is happy.
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Ferodo FDB2098ST (sintered) are great. I like them more than the original Nissins/Honda or the replacement Brembo Sinter.
+1
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Just a comment - if you have shimmed your back shock, you need a lot more than the spec slack on the chain. If you set it to the suggested play with a shim installed you WILL get a stretched chain. Don't ask me why I know
Expensive lessons....
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Leaving a diesel engine to idle while warming up in the cab is all very well, but ;leaving it to idle while you jack off in the office for 20 minutes is a big no-no - that leads to diesel contamination of the engine oil because it sticks to the cylinder walls and passes the rings.
I have seen almost new Volvo and Cummins truck engines that needed a complete strip/rebuild because of this.
Gas engines run hotter usually, so bore washing isn't as much of an issue.
So you are saying that you can't idle a diesel for more than 20 minutes? At work, I saw guys idle their truck for 10 hours waiting for their loads. Look at truck stops anywhere when it is cold. Just don't buy it.
Buy it or not, its a given that extended idle at low RPM leads to bore washing, which contaminates the engine sump oil. This in turn leads to accelerated bearing wear and associated damage. When you have seen a big Mercedes or Cummins diesel engine less than a year old throw a rod thru the side of the block due to bore wash associated damage, and insurance refusing to pay due to "abuse", it becomes a VERY expensive overhead.
Of course, if you have experienced differently, wonderful... I was in fleet management for a long time and have the data to prove my statement. no Google involved.
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Leaving a diesel engine to idle while warming up in the cab is all very well, but ;leaving it to idle while you jack off in the office for 20 minutes is a big no-no - that leads to diesel contamination of the engine oil because it sticks to the cylinder walls and passes the rings.
I have seen almost new Volvo and Cummins truck engines that needed a complete strip/rebuild because of this.
Gas engines run hotter usually, so bore washing isn't as much of an issue.
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I've been thinking about building a car but now I'm leaning towards a kit car. I like this one the best. If not this one, then something similar.
The car w/engine will be around 1200 lbs.
Looks a lot like the Ariel Atom - if you have build plans for this I'd be keen to take a look.
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however, you could have bought one for a LOT less than the prices you were quotedGreeting from South Africa,
+1 From what I've seen posted by others including brianmacza, getting anything in SA is a lottery and costs a fortune
You have NO idea... an OE headlamp for the XX for example is close to US$900 here... a set of complete mirrors (left and right with brackets and mirror and housing, rubbers and so forth) is about US$750 - the CARBON FIBRE units from Japan are pretty much half that. And look prettier. And get here quicker.
Honda South Africa sucks donkey cock in my opinion... the title of "stealer" is well earned.
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My '97 has a disturbing set of symptoms. Riding through heavy traffic naturally pushes the temp up, and the radiator fan comes on almost fulltime for about 20 minutes or more on most days riding home from work. I don't yet have a voltmeter connected to see what the voltage is doing, but the total voltage goes down to a point where the revcounter and speedo stop working.
I have tested the stator and the R1 RR and both appear to be within limits. The battery is pretty new (~ 6 months old) and seems to hold a chare ok. With the engine running, the voltage across the terminals at ~4000RPM goes up to 13.6V and stabilises - with main and highbeam on, and the fan overridden to make it run at the same time, voltage drops only very slightly.
So... the stator impedences are within limits between the 3 poles. The voltage AC put out between poles is about 58V AC (across all 3 tested every which way). The R1 RR seems to be fine. The battery seems OK.
Could it be a crap earth? Could the high temps be causing the stator or RR to fail intermittently? The bike never gets to cooking - no boiling over. I KNOW its how 'cos the guage says so and my legs get cooked.
Heat I can handle... a crap charging system scares me.
HEEEEEeeeeeelllllp!
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I'm not so sure about the "un-sprung weight" advantage. Remember that the inside tubes are usually made of steel and the outside are usually made of aluminum. :icon_think:
Dunno... I replaced my fork seals about 3 weeks ago and without checking, I think the aluminium parts were heavier. Might be wrong, but they are fairly heavily engineered chunks of ally.
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Because I'm lazy, I'll just ask. What's the drive system in these cars that allows placing a sprocket drive lump such as an XX or Busa engine into them without major reconstruction?
Z-Cars in the UK has an intermediate box that drives the sideshafts from a 'busa chain-drive output sprocket. It also uses a starter motor to provide electric reverse. The 'busa motor is a better choice maybe than the XX due to the stronger stator/RR combo to drive the lights/stereo/aux toys.
Makes a Smart pretty quick.
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Getting back to the topic at hand, the standard seat is still pretty good. I rode a friends BMW 800 dual sport and that thing has the most uncomfortable seat I have ever experienced - 30km had me standing on the pegs at freeway speeds because my ass was so sore. Like sitting on barbed wire wrapped around a dildo.
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On the aftermarket plastics I normally hear 50/50 on their fit and finish.. most problems being fitment, holes not lined up and paint not all that great.
I have aftermarket plastic on my XX and the fit wasn';t as bad as the fact that the panels are not smooth - they surface was rippled when I got them to the point where I had to use bondo/filler and loads of sanding to get a reasonable profile. In retrospect, original or damaged/repaired would have been a smarter move (this is valid advice from a certified CRASHER) as the time spent will never be recovered and the fucking bondo chips like shit - I have to repaint sometime soon as the vibration of riding has cracked a couple sections of bondo where it was kinda thick.
At least now my XX can go from a dark metallic grey Back To Black.
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wrong
in The Garage
move it to the pub and mark it NWS
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I'd be more inclined to look at plugs - my '97 went through something fairly similar and it was the plugs fouling (the iridium plugs had done 60k miles before they caved) - my bike has done just under 150,000km
Must say that performance came back with the new plugs - I hadn't noticed a degradation of performance, but the change was immediately noticeable.
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Cool so I guess the valve is rebuild-able?
Yup... mine wasn;t torn so that was easy. Its an off the shelf part from your friendly Honda stealership
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Chain wax is better
and save the grease for the nexxt meat you attend....
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Found a small fuel leak on the bike. It turns out someone worked on it and did not return the spring clamps on the fuel lines going to the tank. When I pulled them off fuel start running out every where. My question is I thought the fuel valve was vacuum operated? Is the valve I have bad if it pours fuel when the bike is not running?
Thanks
Mike
You may have a hole in the diaphram - I started finding my bike occasionally had hydraulic lock - diaphram leaked and filled the cylinders with raw fuel. Ended up with a new diaphram and an oil/filter change just in case.
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Rich has them.
I bought some from him two years ago, but haven't gotten around to installing them.
Can't this be tested by pinching off the pipe from the pair system?
Clutch not fully engaging, hard to shift between 1st and 2nd Gear
in The Garage
Posted
When did you last change oil, and what did you change it to? My gearshift deteriorates over the lifespan of the engine oil - the clunk into 1st gets louder, and as soon as I miss a change its time for replacement oil+filter.