brianmacza
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Posts posted by brianmacza
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Gracias
Will get him to take a peek later.
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My son Gavin has a 2000 XX that has developed a wierd issue. When cold it won't idle at all. Get some heat into the motor and all is fine though. This morning he had to restart the bike about 4 times before he could get out the driveway, and it takes about 5km for it to build up enough heat to behave. Last night after he got home he had dinner and did some study work, submitted an assignment, and then at about 9PM went into the gayrage and the bike started and idled no problem - its only when it is COLD cold, first thing in the morning.
Has anyone encountered something like this? Fixes? Advice?
The bike has a clean air filter, new plugs, and a recent oil change.
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Might be easiest to leave tgetank off the bike for a day or so resting on a clean sheet of cardboard. If thetank and card was clean to start off it should give a clear indication of where the leak lives. On the bike it's gonnabe way harder to trace.
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that would be the teeny foam doodad on the oil breather into the airbox from the cranbkcase?
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or put an HID kit in and solve the problem properly
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My son Gavin has a full Yoshi 4 into 1 system on his '00 and it sounds like a crappy CBR600
My '97 on the other hand has a crappy no-name set of stainless slipons that sound like sex and crackle on the overrun. Carbie for the WIN
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there IS fuel in the tank?
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Seriously though....I used SOFT tie downs around the LOWER triple tree and a couple hook on the the back passanger pegs.
And here we have Dave's BDSM kit on display
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Thanks guys. I thought they were closer to 150, now I know.
...anybody have one for an early model Hurricane 1000?
spec was 150hp on crank at mean sea level (or the standard barometric pressure used by ISO or CE or whoever defined the standard)
Corrected rear wheel HP is a variable depending on state of health of the bike being tested, barometric pressure, skill and credibility of the dyno operator, and the type of dyno used.
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try it with the fuel filler open - if you have a blocked breather it could be creating a vacuum in the fuel tank which might present like this.
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Which is why the R1 rectifier/regulator is a winner... It was designed for a heavier load and compared to the stock RR on a '97 it rocks
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I had a rad custom built for my '97 that is about 30% more fin area because the core is thicker. The side tanks were hand made and it works a treat.
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wanna do it myself.. few guys on ADVrider has done it and did write ups
had a place an hour or so from me that would do it but cost more than ricks..
but then mentioned if I was willing to learn, they would teach me to do it myself..
need to find out your size wire, get enamel coated magnet wire, then get some special epoxy.. read about it in several write ups..
hold on ...
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100230&highlight=stator+rewind&page=6
Grassy Arse
My spanish isn't that hot but you'll get the message ;o)
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I just looked up a Ricks` unit and it`s $140US. How much could it cost for someone to ship to him? And how much does Honda want for a new OEM?Clarification. How much does Honda in South Africa want for a stator?
OEM stator here in paradise is around $240 and my '97 has had 2 so far. The charging system on my XX has been the only significant flaw on the bike (other than my occasional lapses of visible riding talent) but parts prices here are soooo high.
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Hi guys... has anyone rewound a stator? What gauge wire and type epoxy would be appropriate?
I'm considering doing this myself as my stator is giving full output on 2 lines but the 3rd is low. Honda parts in darkest Africa are stupid expensive....
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How did your other dishes come out?
I tend to do car and bike parts without dishes in the same wash. When I redid the brakes on my old 1275 mini the brake drums came out looking like new, as did the flywheel. My wife was moderately pissed though.
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I have run my K&N thru the dishwasher (after a hand wash) and the dry cycle finished it off just fine. Oil lightly and reinstall.
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Ummm.... I never gave this much thought. My '97 runs at 5700ft and is still on stock jets (DNA filter and aftermarket slipons) and feels stronger than my sons 2000 model XX altho' he has a dirty airfilter that needs replacing - the fact that I have a 16 tooth front sprocket maaaay be a factor here.
Does your XX feel more sluggish? Has your fuel consumption suffered?? At your altitude you have about 16% less oxygen than at mean sea level so that would explain some of it.
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Hi Lyle,
I live in Lonehill, Sandton. Both my son and I have Blackbirds (mine is a '97 with 190k+ km on it now, and my son's is a 2000 model) so if you need that lamp reconnected for a roadworthy inspection or whatever, give me a shout.
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There are plenty of digital dashboards for the kit car market that cater for revs, speedo, water temp, oil pressure, shift lights, indicators etc...
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My '97 is on ~190,000km now and at the last valve check (at 160,000km) everything was still within tolerances.
Sounds a bit like the infamous 5500RPM flat spot to me... I cured it by installing a K&N air filter and a set of slipons but kept the stock jetting. The 16 tooth front sprocket also makes a huge impact, and my '97 romps away from my son's '02 XX quite happily - he has stock airfilter and a Yoshi 4into1 but no power commander yet.
Have you tried running a fuel system cleaner thru the tank yet? I do that pretty much monthly, and it makes a noticeable difference if I skip it for a couple months. Clean jets seem to work better for some crazy reason....
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I have a 16 sprocket and it makes a great mod for almost no cost. I did a 13.1% amendment to the speedo sender with a speedohealer, and that makes my speedo almost 100% accurate.
At 1800m above sea level I still get power wheelies on a good launch, and can get the front up on a slip change to 2nd with no problems. On my one trip to the coast it was quite scary in that the front lifted TOO easily for my taste in 1st, but wheelies in 2nd were a breeze. 17% more power at sea level was a buzz of note :-)
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A replacement one from Honda would be $586.73.
Any leads on where to get a new or "like new" one for a lot less.
Existing one has been patched before and seems to have held fine, but at a sacrifice of cooling effectiveness (had to seal the vents around the leak). I can have it re-tested this winter, but I might just opt to replace it if I can find a excellent condition one for cheap.
When I dropped my '97 XX 4 years ago, the radiator took a direct hit and was almost torn in two. The local Honda stealerships wanted about US$1200 for an OEM item and I wasn't prepared to pay that. I took the bits to a local fab guy who makes race radiators for the trackday market, and he fabbed it from scratch, tanks and all for around US$400. The radiator matrix he used looks about 1 1/2 times thicker than OEM, and the fan has never come on even standing in traffic in mid summer. A fab guy may be an option if you can find one.
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I have a 97 bird with a Delcovic slip on exhaust and a k&n filter. I beginning to notice a surge only at steady throttle at highway speeds. The bike has almost 20k and has the cct replaced and has been cared for. I have also noticed the tach fluctuating when this happens. Anyone ever heard of this or any suggestions?
How much does the tach fluctuate? Noticeable drop on the dial vs the revs you experience?
My '97 hasn't ever surged - when the carbs were dirty it ran like crap, and then the RR and stator crapped out the most niticeable sign was my HIDs and clocks stopped working when the voltage dropped under 9V - it ran fine but was a concern
Is the vent on your tank clear? It could be a fuel starvation symptom if its consistent (unless you can run hard at high revs ok)
Doubt it would be plugs...
'99 XX...how much coolant?
in The Garage
Posted
The process my son and I use to burp our birds is kinda simple but still a PITA.
On sidestand, pour fluid into radiator filler cap (and fill header tank as welll) and then start engine.
Idle to warm keeping an eye on the fluid level in the radiator filler neck, topping as needed
blip the throttle occasionally to move bubbles around
switch off and let the bike cool down - the fluid level drops bigtime. Top up again and idle till warm with throttle blips where desired.
When no more bubbles appear, put cap on and ride.