brianmacza
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Posts posted by brianmacza
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I've still got the 0.90 NM Wilbers springs, they were in the bike for +- 5 days.
Lemme know if you want them.
The static front is 22mm and the loaded is 32mm
The measurement was done according to this article http://www.cbrworld.net/fireblade/suspensi...ds_by_andy_.htm
how much?
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what did you do with the other springs? Take em back? or do you need someone to take them off your hands?
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Arctic - does the bike FEEL better with the new tyres?
Reason for the question is that I changed from Bridgestone BT010/BT020 combo to a Metzler Z6/Z6 matched set, and with no other changes besides chain lube manage to scrape both pegs - where with the Bridgestones I only *occasionally* touched the toe of my boot down. (I am a self-confessed woosie allergic to road-rash and hospitals)
The Metzlers are far more confidence inspiring... could this be part of your problem? The bike just FEELS better thru corners?
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I had the exact symptoms on my '97 - was the kill switch.
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I have had unending shit with my battery (6 month old Yuasa (sp?)) losing charge...
I tested the alternator output and the regulator function and everything was within the spec described in the manual.
Discovered that the battery had an intermittent break between 2 cells - no chance of taking either a full charge OR maintaining the charge it had.
Result? My local Kawasaki dealership swapped it out under warranty (altho no real warranty exists for shit like this in the circumstances) - top marks to DNA Kawasaki and my new mate Bruce.
My charge system is back to 100% function and I don't have to push start the bird in the mornings anymore.
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just don't get your thumb in the way 8)
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You can use a device called a hall-effect generator (alias a pulse sender)
If you have access to a breakers yard with vauxhall or opel cars, the 1990 to 1996 astra uses a hall effect generator to send a signal to the in-car computer to calculate fuel economy.
Take the device and wire it to the line to your cluster and whack a drill onto it... tadaaaaa....
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unleaded always burns black anyway - no deposits on the pipe to show white/grey
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I have an Oxford magnetic expandable tank bag - has a fanny pack and shoulder straps in various pouches. Have been up to 270Kph (after putting my speedohealer on) and it didn't shift at all. It has a map pocket on top, pockets on both sides and at the back.
Will try put a pic up as soon as I have one.
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It took me 15 minutes including hoisting the tank off....
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WHat size back tire did you put on? Have you put a shim on your rear suspension?
It almost sounds like the back has been raised too far and the steering head angle is making it too twitchy - this could come from having a 190 on the back and a 6mm shim....
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K&N sucks
Well... I'll disagree with you on that one...
K&N's are great for freeing up some extra ponies, but...
they have to be cleaned regularly, and installed properly (on a Carbed bike).
How often is "regularly"? I put a K&N in about 6000 miles ago - the freeways in my area are very dusty (just come out of winter and the rains haven't hit properly yet - Southern Hemisphere) and I have noticed a performance falloff kinda sorta - could be I'm just used to the bike now after 8 months. Worth a wash and reoil??
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My kit had preformed H7 bulb bases for the HID bulbs - fits snugly enuff.
The only thing I have noticed is that when my low beam is aimed so that oncoming cars aren't blinded and whinging, the high beam points slightly lower than it should. High beam lights up an area about 300 yards ahead of me where the H7 bulb setup had it running straight down the road to what would have been infinity.
Still makes an awesome difference tho.
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I read this thread and went straight out and checked my oil levels... 9500km since the last filter/oil change and the oil still looks gold - its a full synth Castrol (dunno the version but it was DAMN expensive) and it is still at or slightly above the full level.
Has anyone got wisdom as to how long it takes to cloud oil on an XX? My old CB900FB gives me gungy black stuff in about 3000km from a change...
:dunce:
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Tx guys... time to get my hands dirty.
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I have a '97 with stock pipes and a K&N airfilter.
Replaced the 17 tooth front sprocket with a 16-toother, and arranged a speedohealer. That made an awesome difference in terms of acceleration and the ability to play with traffic, but putting an exhaust analyser on it (I rebuild old Mini's and thus need some strange tools) it appears that at idle and up to about 4000rpm it runs a bit lean.
Is raising the needles a reasonable way to resolve this? Should I invest in a jet kit? I don't want to lose the stock exhausts (being quiet is GOOD) so the flow needs of an aftermarket pipe isn't there.
c'mon guys... gimme a sanity check
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They have a nifty tool on their website to create the dip-swich changes based on original % difference, and then changes to sprockets front or rear.
Was a 1st time bullseye - at 160Km/h on GPS I'm dead on.
You get to redline a WHOLE lot quicker than ur used to tho
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Best XX upgrades money can buy:
forgot to add a 16 tooth front sprocket and a speedohealer - both new additions to my Bird.
Makes my very average wheelie ability shine bigtime - and the new R1 and Gixxer1K have a horrible time trying to out-accelerate me now where they used to leave me for dust. So I sacrifice top-end I don't use... what a whoopeee effect at lower speeds tho'
:twisted: :twisted:
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Brian ,, the seafoam is that good ?
can't speak for seafoam specifically as we don't have it in South Africa. I use a product manufactured locally called Wynns Spitfire which is an all-purpose fuel system cleaner.
When throttle response gets bad and the bike doesn't quite feel itself I put a bottle thru the tank with a full load of fuel, and in no time fuel consumption improves and she's flying again.
ZAR10 (about US$1,50) makes a huge difference.
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http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...opic.php?t=1246
DON'T go here... it is NOT the man**l, ir will NOT be of any use...
8)
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Best XX upgrades money can buy:
6mm shim on rear shock - 50 cents
Front spring upgrade/fork oil change - $110.00
Brakes - what you have is probably fine, just replace the fluid - you'll notice a difference.
Plugs - 12k is a good time to change them. Go with the iridium, there is no performance gain, they just last longer.
+1
a vital thing to remember is run seafoam or a similar fuel system cleaner fairly regularly - produces amazing results for almost no munni at all.
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I have used a chain grunge brush and Honda Brite. I have also used ( belive it or not ) Formula 409 Orange. The 409 works almost as well as the Honda Brite. I then wipe it down with a clean dry rag and re-wax it. I should ( and will next time... good advice ) use an air gun to blow out the
remaining water. I clean the chain about every 1500 miles, and wax it every other tankfull of gas.
you guys stress too much... just take the fucking thing off and put it along with the sprockets in the dishwasher...
did MAJIC stuff for my old BMC Mini brake hubs, CV joints and slave cylinders
the wife had a bit to say about it tho
:roll: :roll: :roll:
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The only time I ever locked up the back was in the office garage downstairs, which also locked the front... damn near saw my ass!!!
So much for trying to slide into a small parking bay :oops:
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I have a similar problem with my '97
If I drive thru traffic and the temp rises enough to turn on the fan I have huge issues starting next morning. If I keep the temps down there is no problem.
All items in the electrical chain have been checked by a mate who does auto-elec work professionally, as well as the local stealer. No fault found.
fairly annoying - it happens at the nastiest times too.. like when you try start the bike in front of a crowd and end up pushing it :?
Front turn signals are very dim - anyone got a solution?
in The Garage
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My front turn signals are quite dim - at night it isn't a problem but during the day you need to look twice to make sure they work. The rear signals are bright enough, but they are liddle aftermarket fake carbon fiber jobbies (were on the XX when I got her) that I'd like to replace at some point anyway.
My worry is that some dumb semi-blind geriatric is gonna take me out in the middle of an intersection.
Any ideas?