Pete in PA
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Posts posted by Pete in PA
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yes I did the light did not come on,
I have not found a TL. Ron
Then leave it disconnected and ride!
Just listen for pinging.
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For starters.. you want higher lobe center numbers for higher peak HP.
I did it to my V65 Sabre and didn't really notice an improvement. I was looking for more mid range power, I backed my lobe center #'s down to 104 degrees. I believe the factory #'s were at 106 degrees.
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Did you try what I said?
I wasn't just talking out my arse.
Did you try just disconecting the KS and see if the FI light stays off?
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Hook up a timing light then while engine is running tap on sensor with a screwdriver handle and see if timing retards at various RPM.
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All BB's have a oil pressure light. Turn on the ignition with the engine not running and your red oil pressure light will be on.
The FJR has a oil level light that comes on for 1-2 seconds when the ignition is turned on to assure that the bulb works.
I prefer the level light as it warns you of a low level way before the oil pump sucks air.
I have a Vmax that flashes the low level light at you under hard acceleration as the oil moves to the back of the pan. Fortunatly, thats were the oil pump pickup is located. The level sensor is located in the front of the pan.
So both the V Max and FJR have an oil level light only? :icon_nono:
As I said, if there is a problem with your oil pump or it's drive, plugged oil filter, whatever, you won't know you have a problem till the engine starts knocking from lack of oil pressure.
All the oil in the pan at the correct level does no good unless it is pumped at 50 PSI to all the bearings etc.
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Yes it should have a tube on it but the tube goes between #2 and #3 carb. It allows air to flow back and forth so the carb. vacuum pistons can move.
You need to get that hose on and get some piece of foam to replace it. I don't think you need the official Honda foam but cut a piece of the same thickness and consistency to fit.
Is the bike running good? If not there may be some debris up in the top of the carbs in the vacuum chamber.
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Huh?
What were we talking about?
Ohhh...... yeah.
Does the FJR have just an oil level light?
I always hated the fact that my XR650L's had no oil press. or oil level light.
Just recently worked on my wife's car and noticed the oil press. light never came on. I asked her how long it's been gone. "I don't know".
Wound up just being the wire connector on the sending unit.
I like both an oil level light and an oil pressure light. If you have just a level light you know you can be full of oil and still have no pressure.
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Any of you guys ever tried Shinko's on the XX :icon_think:
I put a rear Shinko 009 Raven on last fall and it was OK, cornered and stuck fine. I have a Pirelli Strada on the front.
Now at 2200 miles it's down to 3/32 in. in the middle and handles terrible. It's starting to slide in moderate corners and it's hard to lean the bike over.
I've got a set of Powers to go on next. I won't be buying a Shinko again.
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That is a wear bar in the third pic isn't it?
You got your wear out of it, time for another. :icon_thumbsup:
I wish I could find that site back but it explains all bike tire wear patterns.
Found it:
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http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...361&hl=jets
I agree, round.
slow is series 21
main is small round.
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I currently have a Shinko rear with a Pirelli Strada front. mounted.
Next rear will be a Michelin Road with another (free) Strada front.
I've run more mismatches than matched sets of tires through the years. Tires just cost too much and don't last long enough to pitch a good tire.
Does that answer your question?
Only problem I see is you will have a stickier tire on the rear then the front. If you're not a serious corner carver not a problem.
How much tread left in that Avon 46? I'll pay shipping and dispose of it for you.
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I bought my 98 in July of 99 with 3800 miles on it. I doubt the previous owner was at the petcock and I doubt it was touched since it left the factory brand new.
Mine was also torn and ripped, I found it a month or two later when it just wouldn't run right. I think the factory installed them pinched and they rip. I'm surprised it took this long for your problem to surface though.
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Tires
in The Garage
Nice write up Geoff, Looking at the pics both tires are very triangulated.
One I use up my current stock of tires in the basement it's going to be a hard decision what to try next with all the new tires out this year.
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It's funny Factory doesn't make one for the FI Birds already, considering there are far more FI Birds on the road than carbed.
I'm very happy with my advancer on my carb XX. Gives more mid range power and I'm still using regular gas.
On the FI Birds, with the knock sensor I would think you'd have to run premium or even add a booster just to keep the computer from retarding the ignition and defeating the purpose. Probably why they don't make one in the first place.
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I had some interference with the side stand. I solved it by gluing a thin strip
of nylon to the sidestand where it hits the stop. Only needed about 1/16" to
move the end of the sidestand enough to no longer hit the bracket.
+1. I used Gorilla Glue to glue a small piece of plastic at the same place.
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Now you've got me paranoid. I'm at 76K miles is my top end on its way out?
What caused the erosion? Got any pics of the valves and seats?
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I've still got a Pirelli Strada front, and Michelin Pilot Road rear to mount. After that the sky's the limit.
Bridgestone, Michelin, and Avon all have new ST tires out this year. Yummy!
From a $$$ standpoint I wish tires didn't wear out so fast, but I love trying new tires!
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Still fighting the urge, just get through today and group buy will be over and my bank account will be safe again.
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Cylinder head packing??? :icon_think:
Never seen those words in a Honda service manual.Intake: .005 to .007
Exhaust: .008 to .010
If they are in that range they're in spec. If your exhaust measures .007 or less it's time for a shim swap. As Joe said if an exhaust measures .011 I'd leave it alone. slightly loose is way better than tight.
I've kept a record of my clearances and I had one come in loose and I left it alone and the next time it was back in spec.
a set of 3 in. feeler gauges is fine. as thin as they are they are very flexible.
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So which slipons do you have Mike?
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Edit: I liked the sound of the punched stockers, but there was a noticable improvement in power when I went to slip-ons... I already had a jet kit in with the punched stockers, and the K&N filter, because it did need one... When I changed pipes, that was the only thing I changed at that time.
Mike
MUST FIGHT URGE TO GET SLIPONS!
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Back in the air-cooled bike days, they always jetted the inside cylinders a bit richer than the outside ones as it helped the inside ones run a touch cooler.
Exactly. Since the XX is liquid cooled though the question still stands. :icon_think:
To clarify the MAINS are 140 for # 1 and 4
142 for #2 and 3
I've got 142's across the board with drilled exhaust pipes, If you have a system or slipons you might go to 145's or more.
So how are your drilled pipes working out, did they give you a deeper note without being too loud, also did you need to change the jets to get it running right - is that why 142 across the board
I just remember seeing the original thread and was thinking of doing this mod myself as I don't want to spend big $$$ on a new system but would like a slightly better note without it being too loud :icon_think:It worked perfect for me, I've got a same diameter hole as the end pipe through the baffle. The sound is just that, deeper, but still quieter than any aftermarket pipes I've heard. Same for me it's all about the $$$.
I'm an example of how NOT to do things. I make too many changes at once then make it work right.
At the end of last year I went to an 18 tooth front, drilled my pipes, 4 degree ignition advancer, played with my jetting MORE. ETC.
So to answer I don't know if just drilling the pipes will cause you to need to rejet.
On the siamese cylinder configuration, that could be it but still I think the whole cylinder block stays at the same temperature. Just my opinion.
On the drilled pipes I wonder how or if it changes how the exhaust flows. The exit hole is still the same diameter, all I did was allow the gas to flow through faster. Most (all?) aftermarket pipes are a straight through design with larger diameter exit holes than the stock pipes.
Here's the post that got me to drill my pipes.
http://www.bikersoracle.com/jaws/exhaust.htm
BTW: if you would plug into me and download like the Matrix you would crash from all the useless shit stuck in my head!
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Back in the air-cooled bike days, they always jetted the inside cylinders a bit richer than the outside ones as it helped the inside ones run a touch cooler.
Exactly. Since the XX is liquid cooled though the question still stands. :icon_think:
To clarify the MAINS are 140 for # 1 and 4
142 for #2 and 3
I've got 142's across the board with drilled exhaust pipes, If you have a system or slipons you might go to 145's or more.
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Herd of reindeer might remove the salt but might leave you a present or two.
:icon_lmao:
Space heater then water.
3rd gear problem
in The Garage
Posted
You're the first I've heard.
What oil are you using?