Pete in PA

Thats a really DARK blue anyone here *cough* with Florida DMV access? run the plate... just a thought # 45683G should be bound to the stated VIN JH2SC35043M600373 Plate is only resting on top of the the mounting bracket, 2 unused bolts in the bracket. What kind of front tire is that!? Looks more like a rear tread style.

I have the VFR bars on my XX and they helped a lot with my comfort and as said they look a lot more like stock bars than the Heli's +2 or more. My bike came with Hellibars when I bought it used in 99. I never liked the looks of them or the bolts to mount them, the allen heads got chewed up real fast from me repositioning them a few times. I got a set of VFR bars off a VFR site for $75 I think a few years back and still love them. Slightly higher and further back than Helli and look WAY better.

I ran one Shiko 009 rear tire it only went 3475 miles till bald. The handling in corners was never right from new, wrong profile. granted I ran it with another brand front but I've never had the handling go this bad with other combos I've run. I wont buy another one. I'm currently in love with pilot powers, they're magical in the corners and still get decent (sport tire) mileage. More on the rear than the Shinko.

For free, who cares? I already was thinking of a 14 front and 21 rear. They are about the cheapest good tire out there.

I need to replace my oil,where did you get the 2.5 wt oil? thats what i started with,with my hyper pro kit.told fork to dealer second time for them to change compairing my work again theres and they put 5wt in i dont like the 5wt and want to get back to the 2.5wt. I ordered the oil from here: http://www.redlineoil.com/ A bit pricey at $28 for 2 bottles delivered but worth it.

Well I changed my fork oil (by pulling the forks) to the Redline 2.5wt and due to a freak 2 days of 65 degrees got to ride! Big improvement! the 7.5wt that came with my Hyperpro setup is too thick. Now the square edged bumps aren't harsh, and the overall ride is still fine. Note this is on a 98, for 99 on they changed the fork valving for less compression damping. I think this could be done even with the stock springs on a 97 or 98 and improve the harsh front end. Stock weight is 10wt.

Jeez! the older I get the higher my "low" temp gets. I don't ride below 40F. Since we had an early ice storm and the roads have been salted the bikes are in the basement till Spring.

Now to clarify, DUH! If you give a bike 20 HP the steering gets quicker! Now removing tounge from cheek, no power gain, just cleans up top end for easier valve cover or spark plug removal. Might lessen backfire out pipes on decell. I'm a cheap bastard but I still bought the plates since they can remain in place to remove the valve cover. Thanks Red J!

If you get a new CCT it comes with the tool. Keep it. I've always locked mine with the tool for clearance checks but has anyone done it without and with and seen a difference in the clearance #'s? Can the CCT actually pull down on the cams and give a tighter number?

Thanks for that site. Going to order Redline Blue and change it this winter.

There are even a couple of 2.5 wt fork oils out there. I'm going to try it this winter. Currently at 7 wt.

ZVM2 here also. Gold for the bling factor.

I use brake cleaner, doesn't eat the grips.

Remove sending unit. Carefully remove the metal box around the unit by bending up the tabs. You'll find a copper wiper arm that tracks across a coil of wire. Usually the wiper tension needs increased on the wire coils. You can also move the arm in relation to the float arm to make the gauge read exactly what you want.

Winter project? It took me about an hour and most of that was removing the left and right fairing. Just got back from work and not only is it quieter it's smoother also. You all need to do this, you might be amazed. If not, then at least you know it's adjusted right.

Thanks for motivating me to do this! Engine is a LOT quieter! It seems like the kind of noise you got used to and don't notice till it's gone. I had to turn 1 adjuster a half turn to get the whine. Makes me wonder if it was ever done right at the factory. Can't see that much adjustment needed for wear. The 2 right side ones were easy, the left one next to the starter was a bitch just to see it with the coolant hoses and wires in the way. I had to prop the tank and with the right length extension and universal break the pinch bolt loose. also don't snap the throttle without first tightening the bolt or it will move and you'll loose your adjustment.

:icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: I'm going to have to do this. I've also been thinking mine is noisy, no vibes, just noisy.

Punch the center through to the same diameter. Don't do the other holes! I'm still enjoying it this way, sounds great and releases more power. With my ignition advancer, warmed up jetting, and bored out mufflers I dynoed this spring at 147 HP. I even punched through my KLX650 the same way and it improved the power. Are all OEM exhausts made this way?

Looks brand new! Love those free bikes! For my buddies 1974 Kawasaki I drained the gas, filled the tank with water and lots of nuts and kept shaking and rinsing. Works fine with a clear in line filter I keep checking periodically. So far no loose rust particles. I never tried any chemical, If you do don't get any on the outside, will eat the paint right off. Buddy cleaned a muzzle loader with CLR once. Took all the bluing right off!

Pull 1 & 3 spark plugs, they're fouled....Somehow.

Nice sommer teeth.

Fixed that for you. So did mine. only replaced the clip 3 times. Never again. Just riveted new chain on the KLX650. IT had a clip type. FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS RIDE WITH CLIPS!

+2. don't change till it starts slipping. I've done some 20 passes at the drag strip, am at 80K miles, still perfect original clutch. Go climb a mountain at full throttle in 3rd gear till red line. If no slipping clutch is fine. If you notice engagement point changes, clean the chain gunk off the rod at the front sprocket and change/bleed your fluid.

I'll second that, I'll never use RK chain on anything. I removed an RK chain at 16k miles that wasn't the factory chain on the KLX. So at 16K miles, this is it's third chain. I riveted a gold DID 520 VM chain on. :icon_thumbsup:

GOD I hate shops! You took it there to change the front tire and they took it upon themselves to lube the steering head bearings? How do you lube the bearings without taking the whole thing apart? ( I have heard of drilling and tapping the gooseneck for a grease zerk fitting but that would take a pound of grease to fill that hollow before that would do any good.) THAT was free, but if you want them to CHANGE out the bearings that'll be $600+ please. Why is it getting worse instead of better finding good shops?