Warp11XX

Hmmmm....didn't know there was such...I'll look at the stealership today when I pick up fork oil and GN-4. Why doesn't the manual just cut the BS and say "USE HONDA COOLANT"?

When I checked at 16K, all intakes were at .006 except for inboard on #4 cylinder...it was .005 then and doesn't seem to have changed. Exhausts were all .009 with the exception of inboard #1, which was .008 at the time and doesn't seem to have changed much. The inboard #4 exhaust was a tight .009 then, and is a tight .008 now. So, wisdom being that in spec is in spec, you think I'd be best off to wait until 50K or so and probably make several adjustments to maximize the efficiency of taking it all apart?

This is my second valve check at roughly 35K. All valves are still in spec, but at the specified tolerance limit ie: all intake valves are .005 in. clearance. The two inboard exhaust valves in numbers 1 and 4 cylinder are .008 in. while all others are .009 in. clearance. My question: Should I make the changes now to bring the intakes back to .006 center clearance, as well as the two exhaust valves that measure .008? Any advantage or disadvantage to doing this now as opposed to at the next check interval when some tolerances may actually exceed the limit?

It doesn't really say anything about what brands to use in the manual. Is there a common list of brands NOT to use? Dexcool? or similar? Is any "green" name brand the best choice in general? I want year round protection without changing mixture or anything seasonally.

You sure about that Matt? I could swear mine was 68 or 69 ft. lbs. by spec in manual....???

Have you looked into any smaller sized directional performance tires that would normally work on a cage? I know a couple of my friends that have triked Wings are running Goodyear Eagle GT's....dunno about the availability in 17 inch size though.

Actually I did...I spent the weekend dryloking my basement and working on my baby girl's Kia. I rode the Wing to work yesterday though (that bike is getting too addictive ). I have WAY too much work to do to even think about having any fun... The Bird needs: Valve check, plugs, coolant flush, fork oil change, brake flush, clutch flush, high beam HID install, oil change, battery install, and a serious detail cleanup. The Wing needs: Oil change, fork oil change, rearend oil change, plugs, and a serious detail cleanup. Also needs a rear tire sometime soon I think. The F bike needs: Starter, all major starter and ground wires fabricated and replaced, and a serious detail cleanup. The Arctic Cat needs: CV boot installed, oil change, seat cover installed. The Rebel needs: Battery and to have the hell run out of it. The Sierra needs: Tranny service, rear end service, complete lube and tighten, oil change, and a complete detail cleanup. The Blazer needs: Tires, oil change, tranny service, front axle seal, probably ball joints, and an alignment. I bought her a full detail cleanup gift card for Christmas...maybe I won't have to clean THIS one...we'll see. Right now I am in the first stages of a basement remodel and finishing project that has the highest of all priorities according to the females in my house. I should have a weekend to just ride somewhere around August if I'm lucky...

We have a winnah.... Just picked one up at Sneers and Rebroke....going to install this evening. No more dead Bird... :icon_thumbsup: Thanks!

Any pros and cons known about these batteries? Is the Deka a better battery? I'd like to purchase something locally today or tomorrow. Other recommendations?

Motorex 622 in the green spray can. Good stuff.... Apply every 300 to 500 miles depending on road conditions and clean your chain with generous amounts of WD-40 every 1200 to 1500 miles. This gives me about 25K to 30K miles out of a good chain with moderately aggressive riding habits.

'90 Virago...replaced stator and R/R with new Yamaha parts. Battery has 12.2 volts in "off" state. Start bike and get 13.9 volts at idle. Raise RPM to steady 3-4000 RPM and voltage drops to steady 13.26 volts...headlight dims slightly at higher RPM but brightens and voltage goes back up to 13.9 when it drops back to idle. I'm not sure how hot the alloy heat sinking case of R/R should get normally. I checked and it was very hot to the touch after 3 or 4 minutes of running. Is this normal operation of the charging system on a Virago? Another question....The rotor in the charging system is a permanent magnet. This should never need replacement as long as no physical damage...correct?

You can't go wrong buying good tools...you'll like it a lot from the first time you use it...worth every penny.

Has Akropovic ever made a dual system for the Blackbird? If not, how much pain in the ass would it be to fit RC51 canisters to a stock '03 header? Any guesses on how it might run? And sound? I would think the flow parameters would be roughly the same for a canister designed for venting 1000cc's...maybe... ya think? Anybody? Bueller?

Does a full Akro system with dual canisters exist? If so, what model? Where can it be purchased?

No...it isn't the same old what is better clip or rivit question... Conversion from OEM 525 to an aftermarket 520 setup on an R6. Unknown chain brand but it is definitely a 520 o-ring. Stamping on the connector link is LM520 and it is/was a clip type link. Standard o-ring links bind and will not free up when installed...pin size is too big. Does anyone know of another 520 link that uses pin sizes other than the "standard" o-ring replacement. I'm guessing that it is less than .002 difference in size but definitely needs to be smaller. Brand and vendor source would be very helpful. Thanks for any info...

Many, many years ago in a galaxy far, far away, I ran an '82 750 Virago (that I bought new) out of gas one day . An old farmer at a roadside produce stand "helped me out" with a gallon of "gas" he had on the back of his truck. The bike didn't immediately start after pouring the gallon of "gas" into it from the old milk jug. Thinking that I had just vapor locked the system or something and that gas needed to reach the bowls , I drifted down the long hill just past the produce stand. The bike fired about halfway down the hill...seemed to run okay at first but was a little rough. I started up the mountain about a mile past the stand and started noticing a loss of power. About that time I looked in the mirror and it resembled a dense and heavy fog that had completely covered the entire valley I had just passed through. The bike lost so much power that for the last mile or so of climbing the mountain I was running alongside it pushing while slipping the clutch and revving the hell out of it to keep it running at least somewhat. I made it to the top of the mountain and mostly drifted dead down the other side to a gas station about a mile or so away. As soon as I opened the tank and took a sniff I knew it was kerosene. I drained the rest of the gallon out of the tank and refilled with fresh gas. The old Virago fired right up and ran fine after a couple of coughs and sputters. I called an old mechanic friend of mine when I got home and asked him what damage I did. After he stopped laughing he told me that I had just done a really nice job of cleaning the inside of my engine. Live and learn...

Sprockets cupped

Is this an issue only with aftermarket or altered parts? Does OEM link need lube? Where, when, how? No zerk in that area is there?

I don't know if it is so much that they are pussies or if it is simply a matter of driver economics. I was told by an RPS driver several years ago that if they get stuck anywhere that is not related to an accident, the driver has to pay the tow bill out of his own pocket. Pulling out a very stuck 20,000 pound truck isn't cheap in this neck of the woods. I took pity on the one who delivered a bow to me several years ago and got himself in a real pickle in my front yard....we pulled him out with a track loader that belongs to a frind of mine that just so happened to be parked at my house at the time. It was interesting to say the least. I was convinced that the truck was gonna roll over but the driver had balls and dropped the hammer at the right time so that the rear end came around and stopped it from listing over onto it's left side. UPS and FedEx are so frickin lazy around here that they drop off stuff for my address at my parental units house. They claim all their stuff slides to the back of their truck if they have to come up my driveway Waaah! :icon_snooty:

How does something like that work? You remove the engine and send it to them? Do they do full final assembly? What could you save if you sent just the needed parts and finished it yourself? And assuming you wanted to go all the way...what would have to be done to the head? What's a guesstimate on cost there? How streetable is 200 HP+ achieved like this? Would it get all peaky and obstinate as hell like my F bike seemed to do? Or is that just all taken care of in tuning the Power Commander? Any heat problems? I have this thing against turbo's and NOS..... I just won't do it to an engine I like....and I really like the one I have . I just want a little more...200 is a plenty if I can still ride it to work.

That's easy . Start with all of them, and then do two extras just to be sure.... Don't forget the grounds either.

Sounds like you're about to get well aquainted with a few beers and a tube of dielectric silicone grease on a rainy Saturday afternoon... Nooooo....not on that....in the plugs and connectors...

But beware Grasshopper....if you do not care for your chain using the method I have prescribed, your offspring will all be born with two hands and only one sexual organ.... You have been warned young one! If we're counting, it looks like cleanliness is right up there next to godliness and adding some sort of lube tends to make your anal sex chain roll easier.

Want many, many miles out of your chain? Here is the way Grasshopper.... WD-40 is your friend. Buy lots of it. WD-40 is cheap. Chains and sprockets are not. Every 1000 miles use WD-40 to the tune of about 1/2 of the large size cans to completely spray and clean off your chain as you slowly rotate the wheel. Keep spraying until the shit is dripping off the chain at all points. Let is sit and soak for a couple of minutes. Take the garden hose and spray off the chain and wheel and swingarm and everything that is dripping WD-40. Lots of dirt and slime will ROLL off the chain. Now spray off the chain again with WD-40 to drive away the water. Now take the green can of Motorex 622 (Strong) chain lube that you conveniently purchased at the bike shop and lightly coat the chain with it. 622 sprays on very thin and runny but sets up in a few minutes to a nice tacky coating. It is also opaque/white and lets those pretty gold plates on the ZVM chains just sparkle. Repeat the light application of 622 every 300 to 400 miles. Repeat the cleaning process at 1000 mile +/- 100 miles intervals. If you refrain from wheelies and burnouts on a frequent basis, you can expect 30,000+ miles service life from a good quality chain. I have used this method for two decades with great success.

They called at 6:72 and you didn't answer....you now have a phonemail in your inbox there on Altair-6... Check your phonemail....