Warp11XX

No locked throttle....too easy

ThrottleMeister...I'll go check....

I replaced the dead original half size OEM battery in January after it seemingly just gave up. Bike is an '03 with 35K miles. I figured it was just it's time and bought the new DieHard without even trying to charge the old one. The bike never sits more than 3 weeks, and I've never needed a trickle charger.

Received, charged, and installed new battery. Turn on switch, fuel pump starts, everything seems normal. Press starter button and crank, and crank, and crank again... :icon_wall: Nuttin even sputters....lights normal, no flashing codes or anything. The stator checks good from static testing. Main fuse(s) good too. It brought me home about 3 miles on a dead (9.8V) battery under it's own power. I turned the switch off and nothing was smoking or hot or anything that I could tell... HELP ! I'm gonna panic soon....

If I do have a bad R/R or stator, would that be a warranty item at 3 years 36K miles on a 4 year extended plan? Or would it be another one of those "normal wear and tear" items?

I've got this setup. Morgan CarbTune Used it for years on several bikes and love it. Can't go wrong.... :icon_thumbsup:

Thanks for the link Redbird. :icon_thumbsup: I'm going to Sears at lunch and get a new battery because I just don't trust the one I have now. I'll go through the charging system tonight and see what turns up. Just as an assumption that I'll find something wrong ...what are the best options on the R/R and stator? Should I go OEM or is the R1 R/R that I've read the threads on really a better value? Is it actually better or is it just cheaper? I've had mixed results using Electrex components in my 900F...their customer service is excellent though. It seems their actual product line needs a little more QC in some cases maybe.

I put a brand new DieHard in about a month ago. Followed the manufacturer directions to install and charge it. Did not actually fire the bike with it until Saturday. Bike started fine several times and all seemed well. I actually had the chance to take it for a short ride (about 5 miles total) this evening and things went to hell quickly. It started and acted fine at first. After a couple miles the new HID's started flashing and acting strange, followed by dash lights, signals, and indicators flashing and dimming. Stopped for fuel and to check condition and bike would not start again. Bump started in parking lot and made it 2 miles home. Checked battery and showed 9.8 volts in the bike. Pulled out read 10.3 volts. Applied charge and battery did not charge at a rate that seemed normal. My automatic tester/charger could not read the charge percentage/voltage consistantly either. Any guesses about what caused this? Bad battery out of the box? Bad charging system did something funky? Birds just eat DieHard batteries for giggles? Is this a sign of doom for the R/R? or stator? I sooooooo HATE charging problems...

Clean as in brand new out of the package and I packed with fresh Slick50 multipurpose grease before installing. I feel a very, very slight "bump" at center position as I swing the bars full lock to lock and back again. I think that I'll loosen the nut off a bit and see what happens. It can't come apart I hope....the top nut captures everything and it is torqued to 76 final I think. What is the chances that I fucked up the new bearing or race by over-tightening?

So I've gotten the All-Balls tapered bearings installed. I'm pretty disappointed...still have the slight notchiness at center steering position. It is just barely perceptable, but it is definitely there. Any ideas as to what is causing it? Too tight/too much torque on the stem nut(s)? It is hard to guesstimate 18 ft/lbs with a drift punch or spanner wrench....

I figured at 90K it was about time to change the plugs in my '02 Sierra . Never even removed a plug wire on this thing before. It is a 5.3 Vortec and has the individual coils mounted on the valve covers. The wires are about 8" or so long and have metal jackets around each plug boot. I cant find any sort of clip or retainer on them. The problem is that these boots won't just pull off with moderate force. It is feeling like I will do damage and most likely destroy several of them at the force level it takes to break them loose from the plugs. Is there a way to get them off without screwing them up?

Purely coincidental.... The jeans suffered catastrophic failure at an XX meat...what would YOU think really caused that?

Exactly what I was looking for.... Thanks! :icon_thumbsup:

Is there a manufacturer that has the full system of braided lines to directly replace ALL of the brake line components on an '03 model Bird while keeping the LBS functional as designed? Any idea of cost? If not off the shelf, is there a manufacturer that would take all the OEM lines as a guide template and fab a set up as replacements for the full system?

Boo Honda quality... 35,000 and the steering stem bearings are notchy. It's always just one more thing that will keep my bike disassembled for another frickin week... I guess the next thing to break will be the toolkit strap. How long does Chaparral actually take to ship on average? Seriously though...the rubber bits on my bike are trash. Even the rubber plug in the top steering stem cap nut is dry rotted. My peg rubbers have been in ragged shape since it was 6 months on the road. Honda also gave me new fork dust seals this week because I bitched enough that they were cracked and dry rotting. And the strangest thing happens about every six to eight thousand miles....my tires cup real bad right before they go slick.

Received mine today. Awesome job Dave! :icon_thumbsup: Thanks!

Well I guess it'll be another fuggin week before I can put my sweetie back together. I pulled the dust cover this morning and inspected the seal. No water has actually entered the top of the slider, so the seal and clip are bright and shiny with no obvious problems. I looked up the dust covers and they only go for a bit under 10 bucks. I'm taking the one in the pics with me to the stealership and try to talk them into ordering under warranty just on principle :icon_snooty: . If they won't do it I'll just get even later since I rep for them as a class sponser for the local MSF program. They probably shouldn't piss me off...pay me now or pay me later their choice.

What are the chances of taking the slider to the dealership and saying WTF? Over. and getting a free set of seals and dust covers out of the deal? I know...I should just flap my arms real hard and try to fly as well.... :icon_duh: idea isn't it?

I looked up the spec in the '99 to '02 manual...143mm or 5.6in. I'm assuming all FI models are the same since mine is '03. Now I'm looking at other problems... This really sucks! :icon_thumbsdown: Boo Honda quality... It's not a rock chip or anything since it is on the rear side of the slider. Bike purchased new in Jan of '05. Not quite 35K miles. I wonder if any water has gotten under and started to fuck with the seal? The other side dust cover is also cracking all around the sealing/sliding lip with little tiny cracks that look like dry rot. My camera isn't good enough to get it though with the light in the garage. I purchased extended warranty that should total coverage for four years. I've never had the bike in a shop except for the front brake recall check. Would dealership/warranty cover something like this? Is it worth the pain in the ass to claim or should I just buy dust seals and hope for the best? I'd hate to put it back together just to ride the damn thing to the shop for them to completely re-do the job...

Which really makes me wonder... Why an oddball capacity like that of .3 ounces? Wouldn't it have been better for engineers, mechanics, and owners to have just rounded it to either 16 or 17 ounces? WTF?

The service manual lists capacity of each fork tube on the XX as 16.3 ounces IIRC. After removing, draining, and reassembling the fork, I'm ready to add oil back to the tube. I can't think of an accurate way to measure precisely 16.3 ounces of fluid. I don't dare just trust that mother Honduh put exactly 16 ounces in the little plastic HP container. Where could I get some type of well marked, known and trusted to be correct, graduated measurement container that would suit this purpose.

Thanks. I'm in...PM on the way.

Three questions: These do work with the stock pegs...correct? Any issues known about using with a full Yosh RS-3 4-2-1 exhaust system? Is the price still $55 shipped to US zip 24134?

Well I balked at the $3.94 a quart for the HP coolant at the stealership at lunch time today. After reading your post Mike, I guess I'll be going back tomorrow to get 4 quarts anyway... I guess $16 or so roughly every 3 years ain't gonna KILL me...lol

Cool! Cam cover going back on this evening. Thanks guys. :icon_thumbsup: