[Melted wires]

Is there anything you can do about wires melting at the connection...ie RR and Start solenoid? I went into the wrap and the wires are fine, its just where they connect at the RR and the solenoid

[voltage RR woes]

Yes it is on the left just ahead of the vent hole, which is dumb to me, why now put it behind the vent hole!!Probably the best place to relocate it would be the nose just before the oil cooler...as for the mosfet kit for 200 bucks I just cant do that anytime soon. If I knew a late model mosfet unit that would wire up like the early R1 units worked on the carb birds I would do that conversion...and yes I know the money spent on failed RR's I could do the retro kit...but again 200 dollars at one time is tough for me to do...

[voltage RR woes]

no I dont think I missed it but as I mentioned the '99 one was only one of several used.. if thats what you are referring to? I guess I may have not been too clear but that particular one was swapped out in '08, all of the rest were for '97...I am currently running on an OEM '97 I picked up used on ebay last year. My point was that no matter what stator or RR I used in the various different configurations I still end up with either a dear RR or a fried one.

 

So I gather that the flywheel doesn't cause issues?

 

 

Many have told me about the mosfet RR...I presume they are pretty standard nowadays? are there any that can be wired into an XX?

[voltage RR woes]

well as I mentioned I have used everything from low end stuff to high end stuff and everything in between over the years. its gotten to the point that when I am talking to my dad and mention battery issues he correctly assumes the RR! lol

 

It is a pain not knowing why this one particular bike goes through so many charging issues tho...

[voltage RR woes]

I have had my '97 XX since 2003 and I know that the regulator is the weak link in the 'bird's design. I typically go through 1 per year on average. I have used stock Honda old and new design, R1 regulator, cheap ebay ones and electrosport.
I have swapped out OEM stator with a new '99 one, a cheap ebay one and also an electrosport over the years but am still plagued by RR failures. anyone have any ideas why I might be so unlucky? could the flywheel cause any electrical anomolies?

[Right Hand Switch]

Anyone have a right hand control switch?

[Brakes]

22 hours ago, poida said:

Did you do a full flush of the system or just try bleeding it.reason i ask is the brake fluid in it may be contaminated. 

 

I didnt do a flush just bleeding...I did order a rebuild kit

 

 

Thanks Everyone

[Brakes]

31 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:

Is it possible that it had air stuck in the system somewhere from before and it moved?

 

 

sure its possible but the fact remains I still cant get any air out of the bleed screws

[Brakes]

ok well lets put it this way, it was MORE spongy after the pad replacement...I think I have ridden this bike enough to know the difference...Thanks

[Brakes]

13 hours ago, John01XX said:

Just a thought to throw into the mix. When you used the screwdriver against the old pads to push the pistons back, did you have the reservoir cap off?

It is a sealed system and when you push the pistons back the reservoir cap must be removed. If the cap is still on when you push the pistons back, you will create a problem. Sometimes the plunger gets turned inside out, but that will affect both front and rear brakes and sometimes it will force a leak.  

 

I did leave the cap on but I dont understand how that can put air in the system

[Brakes]

2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

Air can't enter the system without opening the system so your problem isn't air.  My guess would be the pads aren't seated right or the caliper isn't mounted right.

 

Well I cant say there is no air cuz its been this way for a long time and i am just now getting to it. I just dont understand when I follow the procedure no air comes out of any bleed screws, just liquid. I think some day in the future I will de-link

 

2 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said:

 

I'm not sure what you did here.  Can you describe this in detail?

 

sorry meant the cylinder that actuates when the wheel rotates and the front brakes are applied

[Brakes]

7 hours ago, poida said:

when you say old pads ,are they old ones that have been used or were they old new ones.just wondering if they had the backing plates on them.ive only ever had the rear brake not release fully due to the slider pin sticking.

if it was a front brake i would suggest pulling the front lever in as far as possible and tie it there and leave it overnight..worked on a gs1000 i once owned.not sure how you would do similar on the rear though.

 

Just some old new pads I never used. They did have the backing plates.Its just the damned LBS...I never have problems with bleeding the front

 

5 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

When you changed the pads did you open the bleeder or any other part of the hydraulic system?

 

Nope I just used a screwdriver against the old pads

[TPS]

I referenced the manual and used the schematic. Tests it just like a potetiometer..Thanks a bunch!

[PAIR plate]

Yea come payday...Ive already removed the hoses and sealed them, just want to remove them totally now

[Brakes]

No the level stayed filled.but I kept it full and pumped basically nothing but fluid out of the clear tube...front is perfect though

[Brakes]

both sitting still and moving...I just bled them and i still have to pump to get them firm 

 

I tried per the manual and also XX Brake Bleed

[Brakes]

23 hours ago, Redbird said:

I was assuming a need to get rid of some air. If you're just talking fluid replacement Poida and Krypt have you covered, no pump required.

 

 

I replaced the rear pads and after I pushed the pads back into the caliper I installed them and found the air..takes 3 pushes of the pedal for it to firm up

[XX parts availibility]

Regulator/Rectifier and Cam chain tensionerare the most common failures I have come upon in 13 years of ownership...oh and also TIRES...

[PAIR plate]

I am wondering if any of you have any PAIR blockoff plates laying around?

[Motor issue]

So first off I want to thank all of you for your advise, it helped me get straight. The issue was the carbs...once I started thinking it wasnt just #3 I removed them and soaked them in the gallon bucket of chem tool overnight cuz just the spray carb cleaner just wasnt cutting it. Then pressurized water and finally spray carb cleaner...sync and pilot adjustment and my XX runs like a bat outof hell like she was designed to do!

[Motor issue]

no leaks and sync is right on the money for all carbs...I will be playing with the pilot screww but just wondering which way to go...I decided to go richer from 2 1/2 to 3 turns...we'll see how that goes

[Motor issue]

So I went ahead and swapped out the other 2 carbs and short test run it has mid and hi range power back...now I just have to futz with the idle...After throttle is applied it kinda hangs and then slowly decreases to idle...too lean?

[Motor issue]

2 minutes ago, HANKSXXX said:

Have you checked carb sync?
Only reason  I ask is I you said you changed the #3 carb for another one.

 

Yes carb sync was checked and done if needed after each removal and remount

[Motor issue]

28 minutes ago, JB4XX said:

I had one start missing,  run on 2 or 3 cylinders, then run fine. ...

 

Turned out the plug wires had made contact with radiator fan, spark was occasionally jumping to the radiator.   Tested it by wrapping them up, started and idled fine...changed out plug wires...no problems! 

 

You mentioned earlier you had a set of wires and coil? 

 

11 minutes ago, jon haney said:

Good idea, Josh.

Also, you mentioned you had another set of carbs.  Have tried switching out the slide (with diaphragm) to see if maybe that's the problem?

 

The other set of carbs isnt complete but the 3rd carb was good and I swapped it out and no change...so #3 compression is good,carb is good and coil swap most likely means they are good that leaves plug wires (Plugs are actually new)...could any other carb cause this issue? I only assume its number 3 cylinder issue because of the temperature difference between 1,2,4 and 3...I am considering swapping out 1 and 2 also...number 4 spare I had to drill out pilot screw and now it has brass stuck in the threads...I need to find a tap that fits it to make it useable

[Motor issue]

1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

Did you guys do the tests?

 

 

yes I did and all 4 are within %10 percent of each other...I am at a total loss