HamrTym

I look at it as I've already got a spare one on hand. Actually, if its noticably noisey at NeXXt, I've get it with me. Just in case.

Purely out of curiosity, just like the title says, when do you all shift when WFO. Not looking to eek out that last 1/10 in the quarter, just some insight. Running a Yoshi full exhaust, stock air filter, but no PCIII, just stock ECU. Since I don't have a dyno sheet to show me where the power peaks then tapers too, hard to tell. I know that on most vehicles, it's pointless to stretch the motor out to redline due to severe taper off in power. Probably not the case of the 'Bird, but I don't know for sure. Like I said, not looking for the exact answer of (geeky voice over) 10,336 rpm in the last 5 gears should result in maximum accelerative motion. Any experience, post up. Enjoy. P.S. Stock gearing also.

Hey all, Odd question that I think I know the answer, just trying to confirm. Did any of the USDM 'Birds come from the factory with the Double Green Dot CCT? Reason? Getting ready to change mine (13,500 miles) out and it already has one on the bike. :icon_think: When I bought the bike from a private owner, it had only 3300 miles on it. Of course, he was the third owner of it, making me the fourth. Guess any one of the previous owners could have changed it out already. Just seems strange that they would have with so little miles on the motor.

Sooo, I guess a PCIII with a full exhaust is worth it, eh? Got the full exhuast, just on stock programming.

Sorry about your luck . Of course, now I'm nervous. Aacck. Thanks for looking though. I've got a little more vibration since the rebuild from the something RPM based. Thought that maybe I had remounted the exhuast incorrectly and caused the vibes. Nope. As far as hangers, refering to hanger on mid-pipe or the foot peg bracket hanger. Don't have any spares but Service Honda has treated me well for factory Honda parts. Good luck.

The midpipe has a tab that is bolted to the foot peg braket,right side driver. Does this tab mount on the inside of the bracket, i.e., closet to the center of the bike? Or does the tab mount on the outside of the bracket, i.e., away from the bike. Just curious. When rebuilding my bike a while back, I wasn't sure since the directions don't say and my pictures taken before the rebuild as a guide don't show well enough the position of the tab. Sucky angle on my part. Thanks for your time..

I take it that c-c means center to center?

Define cheap. I just went to my local Cycle Gear and picked one up. IIRC, it was $102 and change. Didn't shop around. I'm getting the bike ready for NeXXt, and as of lately, during start up, the starter didn't spin as fast as usual. Didn't want to take any chances. The last Yuasa lasted 4 years, so I bought another one. Hope that helps.

Been running M-1's front and rear for about a year (5 month down time due rebuild). Skill level is slowly building up with time. I'd guess I'm better than Novice, but not a pro by any means. Rear M-1 is shot due to flat spotting the center 'cause of Florida. Enough said. Switching to a Z-6 rear. My question is how much traction am I really losing? Never felt like I was near the limits of the Z-1, but then again, how would I know. Any experiences from switch from M1 to Z6, please kind to post up. Or just Z6 rear experiences in general are welcome. From reading, some people love the M-1/Z-6 combo just great. Thanks.

Replacing my 4 year old battery. Picked up a new Yuasa and a Tender Plus to charged it up before install. Question is this: I ride at least once a week, if not more. Every now and then, the bike will stay put for a week or so. Any advantage of putting the Battery Tender on when parked, even though the bike is not really in storage? Longer battery life, easier cold starts, less strain on the charging system, etc. Thanks for your time

When you pulled the plugs to change them out, we're all them the same color/cleanliness. Or were some of them soaked in gas and smelled like a gas can. If plugs were different, that might also tell you which cylinder(s) is not doing its job. Possible from a stuck float(s), as Mr. Wacko mentioned... Good luck my friend..

Not a mechanic, but here's a shot. When running, is it dumping a load of fuel underneath the bike? From a past experience, friends bike went down, and once righted, it was running rough and pouring fuel out one of the overflow tubes from the carbs. Apparently one of the float bowls was stuck open and dumping fuel in. Possibility?

How in the name of all things holy did you extract the dampers from the factory 'clip ons'. I've depressed the 'release' tabs and pulled and twisted and cussed and who knows what else. I can't get these things out. I'm not exactly a body builder but WTF... Got up early this morning to install these before I go to work and take a slab trip for a meet this evening. This blows.... Any advice/tips would be gracious of yourself. Thanks in advance from the screaming lunatic in the garage...

Hey ya'll, Looking at doing new pads in the future. If your bike was used roughly 60% commuting in town, and 40% having fun on back roads (two up mostly), what pads would you pack you calipers with. I think the two up riding is taking its toll my current pads (factory stock, to my knowledge). Have no complaints with them. Just checking to see if any better choices out there for the current riding conditions. Occsionaly rain is included, as with living in FL. I realize I need to check the thickness, but how do the front rotors hold up and last. Any incite (sp?) will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hmmm. Did it come from someone in New York. I donated a headlight to Joe up there. Can't remember how damaged the lens was, but three tabs were broken off the back. That'd be cool as hell if my headlight was reincarnated into a new life...

Have you tried putting it in the oven and warming it up first? Some of the Subaru crew that I know like to 'clear' their headlight by removing the yellow reflectors inside to give it a more monochromatic look. They do this by heating them up to about 160-180 degrees, if I remember correctly, them procede to seperate the halves. That glue 'goop' is a pain in the ass, but it keeps the moisture out. I'll ask around and see what temperature they used to be sure. Good Luck.

The following is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt. Don't use the LED's that replace the standard bulb only. Standard bulbs throw out light in pratically all directions, lighting up the entire reflector of the tailight housing. The LED's replacement bulbs are extremely directional, and IMHO, are not very bright in the stock housing. I've seen other bikes where just the bulb was replaced, and there was little difference between running light and braking. And the braking light appeared to be nowhere near as bright as stock running light. Cross eyed yet? Replacing the entire tailight housing with a dedicated (clear alternatives and such) LED array is another story. Some seem to be as bright, if not brighter than stock incandesent bulbs. Again, that is just my observations on LED bulbs.

Like his post says, Beondwacko means well. So don't take it the wrong way. I, along with others, have seen him genorously (sp?) jump in to help two total strangers with bike problems during a group ride. One was a Gixxer that went from track bike to the yellow submarine and back to high and dry in about a 6 hour period. And later, help a lightly downed 'Bird get running again and keep it from pissing all its gas down it's side, instead of into the carbs. Good man. As mentioned earlier, taken the lowers off is easy. It's the reassembly that takes the patience. Sometimes those tabs can change a man's religion. Best wishes to 'ya.

Welcome to the board of (in)sanity. Good group of people here. Nice bike too. I've always wanted that particular Blue..

Thanks for all the responses/advice ya'll. Got some solid ways to clean the bike now. 'Till then. Rob

Yep, mine is Silver too. It works great at hiding dirt and crap. My 'Bird is long overdue for wash. Had it over a year now and never 'washed' it. Hell, I've still got the dirt from out of state in my back wheel from when I went down last October. I think its time...

What was the general turn around time once Traxxion Dynamics got the forks in their hands? Just curious..Thanks. P.S. The forks look L8R,

Yoshimura. Of course I'm biased 'cause I have one. Also has the tab for the rubber center stand stopper. My centerstand is not currently on the bike so I can't confirm if it clears or not. I do not see any reason why the stand will not clear. In reguards to Yoshi, finding one might be the hard part. At least that was the problem here stateside. I just got a new one, supposedly a one-off from Yoshi, USA. That's what I'm told though. Anyhow, have fun. L8R,

I usually use that Pro-Honda spray cleaner and polish. Stuff works great. But now the bike is just plain dirty all over. You know, wheels, forks and such. So, when you wash the 'Bird, do you just say screw it and go to town with the hose and soap. Or do you take any precautions such as avoid this or that, mask off/cover up particular parts. I'm avoiding the high pressure routine and using the 'ole household hose. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks... Rob

Does anybody know the difference between these two and how the compare to each other as far as the rider 'reaching' for them. Had Heli Bars and loved them. Bike went down and damage them. Have the stock clip on's now and they're a bit of a stretch right now, but they will work. Just looking into other options for the future.. Thanks Rob