HamrTym
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Posts posted by HamrTym
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Since I can't buy it (next vehicle will be replacing my Subaru), at the least I can bump it. :icon_thumbsup:
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Friendly bump to page 1.
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We also made the mirror that has the backup camera display built into it. I only ever saw this on a comercial once, but it's really cool. When the car goes into reverse a display turns on that is behind the mirror and displays through the reflective surface. When it's not on you can't tell that it's there. These mirrors have a special (thinner) silvering on them that a display can make it through. This type of silvering takes a zillion-dollar machine to apply properly using technology you've never heard of in a machine that looks like it belongs in NASA. Anybody ever heard of sputter-coating? Unfortunately, this is not a retro-fit you can do to a regular mirror.
A friend of mine has a newer Honda Odessy minivan. It's a second from the top-of-the-line model. Its has its rear view camera display built into the rear view mirror. Put it into reverse, and the left hand 1/3 side of the mirror lights up with the display. Once off, as stated before, you cannot tell its there. Cool stuff. Possibly order the rear view from a Honda dealer, if need be.
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Don't forget that Jennings has a forum also. Narrows done your search area to maybe something closer. Not sure how far you want to travel to check out a bike. I've been doing used car/bike research (read: shopping) lately and hate when I find what could be the perfect deal, only to find the object is in Washington St.
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I just replaced my front pads last night and today riding to work I noticed a high-pitched "buzzing" sound from the front tire (sort of like cicada flies in the trees when its hot - for those in the south who know what I mean) - in any case - the sound rises with the speed of the bike and does not go away when the brake is applied at speed... it disappears as I slow down - any guesses?
I was wondering the same thing about brake quiet when I stumbled upon this thread - any help is always appreciated....
thanks
No worries about the hi jack.
Make sure that the pads are correctly installed at the top of the caliper, you know where the tab on the pad slides into a notch on the caliper. The pads will go in incorrectley and bolt in, if requiring a little assistance. Ask me how I know. Might not be your problem, just a thought.
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Unfortunatley, I don't have a cluster for you, but an FYI. You might be able to purchase just the back of the gauge cluster from Honda. At least that is how my '02 is built. Despite different guage setup, I'm pretty sure it is built the same. My guauges are in three pieces; the front cover that you look at and through, the guts of the guages themselves, and the back plate (white plastic) that holds the guages together and mounts them to the front subframe. When I surfed the ashphault the first time, I also broke every tab that was attached to the subframe. Gauges looked and worked fine, just the tabs were broken. Try Service Honda or Ron Ayers Honda. They have online parts fische and exploded views of the bike and can get the part numbers to order. It maybe a lot easier to source that plastic than trying to find an entire gauge cluster. Also, obviously, you can get the front subframe also. Good Luck.
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Stan, if you build them, we will cum! Oh, and I would glad buy some made in Texas!
+1
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Last night I pulled the old pads and see where there is nothing applied to the backing plate. Just clean and install the pads. Thanks everyone for their time.
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Ok, maybe I'm just a simpleton?
Do these just glue/double sided tape to the cover? Great way to cover up my not so great looking generator cover.
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Quick question for ya'll,
When replacing the front pads, do you use any kind of brake quiet applicant to the pad backing plates. Or do you just put the pads in the calipers just as they are, straight out of the plastic wrapper? Thanks.
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Buy a bike cover you cheap prick!
Tried that. Then, when i uncovered the bike, I was greeted with 3 black widow spiders and their family of egg sacks up in the fairings and gauges. That would have been nice to have while riding.
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Unfortunately due to my living situation, my XX has to sit outside. It hasn't been ridden since RacerXX last, well whenever that was. Went to go move it. Bike rolled out just fine. Until I went to squeeze the front brake lever. Lever was frozen, or so it felt. Finally it moved on the third hard squeeze.
Now the front wheel is practically locked up and the brake lever will not return on its own to the full foward position. There is some serious binding of the brake pads and rotor.
Upon a quick intial inspection, there is some corrosion between the brake pad backing plate and the guide pins that they ride on.
Has anyone had the pads seize onto the guide pins? Or am I totally fucked and the caliper pistons are corroded and hosed. I really don't want to have to rebuild the calipers and BLEED the oh so simple brake system on this bike. I'll probably take it to stealership for that headache.
Any ideas or experience would be appreaciated.
Ride safe everyone...
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:icon_needpics:
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Whenever you are free Scott, could you PM me the list also, whatever you were kind enough to send to HanksXX. Realistically, I won't be buying squat due to the holidays. It's just my curiosity more than anything. Doesn't help that KTM are on my short list for a second bike. Thank you for your time.
Rob
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Not sure which exact L.E.D. replacement bulbs you are trying to use, but a word of caution. IMHO, those LED's that are designed to replace factory bulbs suck. Most light fixtures use reflectors that are designed with incandescent bulbs in mind. Incandescent bulbs 'throw' light out in about all directions. That said reflector sends all that light out through ALL of the lens. LED's are very directional. Most light produced comes out in a narrow beam, the simplest way I can explain it. While those LED's can be extremely bright when looked at directly, they suck when offset. When placed in a reflector, the light goes straight out the back. All that lights up is this tiny circle of light about an inch or so in diameter. That big lens is totally wasted. Also, most of those replacement bulbs I've seen don't have much difference between running light and 'brake' light. Hard to tell when you are actually braking, particullarly in direct sun light. The bulbs that I'm referring to are the ones with a single board with LED's facing one direction. As of lately, I have seen some bulbs that have LED's mounted and placed facing multiple directions. Maybe those are much improved. Unfortunately, I have not seen them in use yet in a tailight. Or maybe I have and they suck just as bad. Something to ponder about.
Of course, you can also put them in and have someone sit on the bike and work the brakes on and off while you stand a ways back and observe.
If I had my heart set on LED's, I'd get a replacement fixture that is designed from day one with LED's built in, such as from a company like Clear Alternatives, or such, as John suggested.
Good luck with your endeaver..
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Is this the correct way of burping the system after coolant replacement?
Fill up radiator with coolant of choice until full. Start engine and let idle, without cap off radiator. Allow bike to come up to temp idling. When coolant starts to drop, slowly add coolant to keep level up to filller neck. Once coolant stays nice and pretty much level at the neck, while thermostat is opening and closing during heat cycling. If I missed anything or have any tips to suggest, let me know.
Thanks for your time.
Rob
P.S. While flushing the system, my dumb ass forgot about the 10mm bolt on the fron left of the block to completely drain slipped my mind. But I did flush the system with 3 full gallons of distilled water. Basically I filled, heat cycled, and drain the system 3 times. Then filled and burped the system with water and water wetter. That should have completely flushed out the anti-freeze, correct?
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Thanks Rich.
Out of curiosity, will the over flow catch tank drain also with the rest of the cooling system? Or just disconnect the small hose and use it to drain the coolant catch can? Thank you.
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In the next couple of days, I will be draining and replacing my coolant in prep for a track day, my first. Didn't someone once post a how to as far as the best way to completely drain the cooling system. Unfortunately, my Honda service manual is buried in the depth of a 10 x 20 storage unit. Obviously yanking the lower radiator hose and draining is a start. Any tips or advice would be great. Thanks.
Rob
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Just a friendly bump up to page 1. Best of Luck with the sale, Adam. Knowing Adam, this thing was meticulously maintained.
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My third gear occasionally is crunchy when engaging. When it does crunch, it is usually when I've wound up second gear really high. I'm using Amsoil 10-40W Motorcycle Oil. Hopefully third will not get any worse for wear.
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Thanks for the research and info ya'll..
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I thought that somewhere I read that someone has/had a fuel economy map on their 'Bird. If still out there, what does it involve. With the ability to switch maps and what not, why not have two maps onboard.
Any info would be great. Thanks for your time.
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Count me also, for my '02.
Just let me (us) know when and where to pay up.
Thanks for the effort.
Rob
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So far,
A++
Ordered two items at the same time. Joe R. pants and Oxtar boots. Pants quoted as same day shipping, boots, 1-2 days to ship. Payed for 3 express shipping to make sure I got them in time for a meet. Boots came two days later, and pants the next day. Over the phone, people nice and cordial. Didn't seemed like they were rushing to get me off the phone and cycle to another person.
Cliff Notes: New Enough rocks...
SOLD: 2006 Triumph 675 Track Bike
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Free bump back to the top, since that is all I can offer. Or I'd have this whole setup in my garage. Mega deal to be had!
Good luck Rick