G4XX
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Posts posted by G4XX
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i had problems with the centerstand stop, so i just ignored it and bought one from J. search for centerstand stop in the for sale section.
i also used the stock gaskets, although they were very, very tight.....
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holy hooking batman!
Aluminum rear sprockets on this bike tend to be a
Honestly, I am surprised you got 10k out of it. I have seen pics of some with 5k and teeth missing.
I have a OEM front sprocket with 17k on it and it isn't hooked anything like yours!
Unless you are drag racing, get hardened steel for your rear sprocket...imho. I can't believe that picture of the rear! :icon_shocked:
Fronts should last as long as your chain does (15k +/- 5k).....
of course, i could be full of shit and know nothing!
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Source? Web address?
Molybdenum....anyone know anything about it?
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Thanks, all. worked like a charm!
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i just do mine until it looks to be the same width as the front and rear link surrounding the rivet link. It hasnt failed me in the 3 years i been doing my chain myself
I thought about that. I do have an extra link just in case i dork it up.
I just changed my chain (installed a DID ZVM); the instructions said to
stake/crush/smash/whatever the pin until the diameter of the staked
part was between 0.216 and 0.227 (I believe I'm remembering that
correctly). The packaging for your chain should have similar information.
looking at the box and chain info. it doesn't say. (EK ZVX) your numbers sound right, though.....iirc.....
thanks guys.
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What is the spec on the rivet on the chain? I just moved and i cannot find my book
....got everything ready to go except how much I need to stake these rivets....:icon_pray:
TIA!
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Anyone interested in a pair of 1 year old Hyperpro Full Progressive springs for the Bird let me know and as soon as Honda sends me the new tubes they will be available.
John,
I might be interested in these springs. Does rider weight matter, meaning are there
different versions available? If so, I'd need to find out if yours are right for someone
that weighs in at 150 soaking wet (i.e. me...). I'll PM, too.
Like most everything new it made a very noticable difference when it was installed but since I was replacing the fork tubes and got a deal I couldn't pass up from Jaws when I was staying with him I had to give his setup a try since the Britt's swear by it over there.
I am all of 150 lbs with clothes on myself. Weight is not a factor according to HyperPro on the progressivees but then we are about the same anyway.
John
Just that much too late.....
John, if Keith doesn't hop on this, I will.
PM sent.
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Does anyone know of a company that makes fender eliminators for a 2000 xx?
Moteck is what i have. They can be had on ebay for pretty cheap. they do take a little creative fitment and a hair of good luck with the paint. mine was painted 3 times and it still isn't exactly right, but i got tired of dicking with it.
check here: linky
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Hi there folks.
as anyone done a successful fork swap for the 1100XX? I've got mine all apart for fork Bearing replacement, and thought now would be good time to measure for new forks and triple clamps say from a CBR954 / CBR 1000RR ideally ... anyone help me??
Thanks from Canada[attachmentid=592]
Ping Byrdman....He is doing a Busa front end.
There isn't a direct bolt up, if that is what you are looking for.
Oh, and welcome to the insanity.
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I think olive oil is fine for Ducatis, but I wouldn't run it in my Honda.
Use wok oil.
J.
:icon_lmao: :icon_funnysign:
i think i wet myself a little i was laughing so hard at this.....
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-Metal Halide lamps. $30 for a 175 watter locally.
I don't know how high your garage ceiling is, but these would deliver the most light. They cost a bit to start (electricity wise) but after they are going, they don't cost that much to run. The only downside, other than needing to be higher up for more of a general light, is the start-up time.
My garage has the basic 8' flourescent lighting and works pretty well all things considered.
My buddy works for the local utility and he got one of those 1000w metal halide street lamps.....
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I am interested, but we will have to get 9 others on board!
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It didn't stop people from pulling out in front of me or help them see me. It did draw more attention to cops than someone walking down the street with dick stuck to their forehead...
and that draws a lot of attention! especially around here!
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Harbor Freight tools are ok. it's like comparing craftsman to snap-on...
they aren't great, but they are better than nothing, imho.
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The 97 is the best year as they're already uncorked. for 2k if it's in any kind of decent condition is worth it.
+1
lots of fun. my 97 was an absolute kick in the ass. wish i hadn't got rid of it. drop a tooth in the front for some real easy wheelies....
suzuki de-tuned 98+....said it was too much power or some other bs....
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PM Swampnut. It was his bike.
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I just did 1552 miles from denver to las vegas and back. pretty consistantly, reserve light came on at 190 indicated miles, and would take right about 4.8 gallons if i stopped right away. most i got was 245 from denver to grand junction and it took 5.59 gallons. 2001, k&n, scorpion slip-ons, stock gearing, 200# rider, 70# of gear and saddlebags loaded.
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as far as disassembly, i took off the nose. it made it much easier. i think plasticxxhead put them in without removing the nose, but i don't like hand cramps. ymmv.
Now, if you don't have anyone else going in with you on these, i was thinking of making my high beam HID as well. I am in, but I also know John was interested in going in halves with you as well. He was on it first, so let him have first shot at it.
Hell, i might even just buy another pair and have one for parts if something happens to the other kit. either way, just let me know.
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The difference is literally night and day. On my recent trip to Vegas, my family was in the cage in front of me, and multiple times i was told that my headlight was giving them more visibility.
Trust me, you won't be disappointed in the results.
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ok....here is the back of the headlight with the HID installed. it fit almost like it was designed to be there.
the small black plastic ring had to be filed a little bit to fit, but it wasn't too hard...
I did not modify any of the wiring on the motorcycle. I carry a spare H7 bulb, plug, and retainer ring in case something were to happen to this bulb, i could swap the plug, put in the stock bulb, and not be without a headlight.
here is a pic of the bulb in the housing turned off.
ballast and igniter. ballast is small enough to fit behind the dash on my 2001 and not interfere with anything. it's 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1 (inches) (approx)
this is probably the best picture to show color. note it is blue, and very bright.
other pics in my gallery. i will take some more tonight if i remember and post them tomorrow. I hope this helps those who were asking.
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6k is a good compromise. enough blue to look killer, still MORE than enough light. Keep in mind that most halogen bulbs put off less than 1000 lumens. Watts are only how much power is being drawn (iirc). The kit that you are looking at pulls 35w. So, you get more light and use less power (read: better on the stator and r/r). I have not had any problems at all. no melting, no hot spots, no drivers flashing me. I have the pics that i could find and will upload them shortly.
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I have them somewhere...i will see if i can find them. I think i have a small video clip, too.
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I have the same kit for my bird, 6000k output, i believe. it is well worth the money, and to give you an idea, the low beam is so bright, if you turn on the high beam in a regular halogen, you can't even see it light up anything in front of you. I got mine from xenonking.com and it was $160 for one kit iirc. the 6k is blue without looking ricer. I might have some pics i can dig up...
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mine are mounted right to the back of the gauge cluster. Milehi mounted his with some double sided tape to the ram air tubes....just a thought...
Tired of CCT noise...so...heres what I did
in The Garage
Posted
I have my "new" X11 CCT in the bag still.....i guess i should get around to installing it sometime soon.
Thanks for the pic and info!