TechnoGecko
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Posts posted by TechnoGecko
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I.would.really.suggest.getting.a.real.keyboard
.. but seriously, I don't have any of that 'dem der new faggled fuel injection things on 'muh motorcycle, so I dun know what to tell ya.
Any FI guys wanna chime in? ( Im bored, can you tell? )
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I'd just do yourself and replace the following things to make your bird happy.
#1 - CCT, it'll quiet the rattle and give you some piece of mind
#2 - Thermostat - cheap and again, good piece of mind incase yours is on the fritz
#3 - Change coolant, might as well while you're replacing the thermo
.. the rattle you hear without the clutch pulled in is the clutch rattle, its normal on the birds. After I got mine I thought something was wrong with it as well, but I quickly learned it was normal.
Also, you might want to give Joe (rockmeupto125) a PM about any remaining X11 CCTs. I can't remember if he got rid of all the ones he ordered or not.
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Whoa, any chance you can downsize that gigantic picture in your signature? Thanks
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Most locksmiths can make a key from the gastank lock or the seat latch. Its usually pretty pricy to have that done. Lost my car keys in the salt river once a few years ago and had to have that done. Locksmith opened the car, then removed the glovebox and took the lock from there to make a key. If I do remember it was something like $150 to have it done. But it was that or start walking home! :shock:
.. but usually if you just take your VIN and proof of ownership ( ie title + drivers license ) down to your dealer they will make you a new key right there. I've had that done with several cars - I'd imagine its the same for the bikes.
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I'll +3 on the chain. I had a stuck link on my chain the other weekend and it felt like I was riding with a 5lb weight stuck to one side of the wheel. The sound it made, and the vibration you could feel was terrible. A good 20 minutes of chain scrubbing and lube later she was good as new. However I am due for a new chain...
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Ok since no one is going to say it I will...
"YOU SHUT THE FUCK UP... AND LET FLORDIASILVERBIRD PATCH YOUR TIRE"
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I was on the 101 in stop and go traffic yesterday and the bird got hotter than it ever has. Ive got a 98 so no exact temp readout for me, but it was damm close to the top H. It usually only goes to about half. Although I was crawling along the 101 at about 5mph for ~20 minutes. The second I got on to the 51 onramp I punched it and got her up to 6th gear and it only took 30-45 seconds for the temp to come flying back down. I cant imagine riding the bird whenn its 110+ outside, I bet she'd just blow up.
The big things to check in the cooling system are:
1. Bad radiator cap not keeping the system under pressure and therefore making the boiling point of water less than it should.
2. Bad thermostat not opening all the way and therefore not allowing adequate flow of water to and from the radiator through the engine block.
3. Bad water pump not moving enough water or some type of obstruction in the hoses.
Thermostat and radiator cap are probally your two most likely culpruits and theyre both cheap to change. I'd start there.
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Ya for the kind of money these guys dished out on the Spiegler stuff I would have expected them to all have a very easy and well documented install process but it appears Spiegler has not put far near enough time in this kit for the CBR1100XX as it has some very seriously problems.
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Year bike, mileage? Has it been sitting? Some more info will make it easier to help diagnose.
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Dimmer switch? I take it this is a UK bike?
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Seems like the Spiegler kit has quite a few issues to be resolved. You wonder if they even installed it on a blackbird to see if it ever worked. Good luck!
.. I know I'd be pissed if I had dished out the kinda money you guys did for this kit and ran in to all these problems.
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You can use tweezers, or if you are into guns, go to a range and find a spent case for a .17 Hornady rimfire. cut it with a dremel in the neck area shorter so the diameter fits the D and shape it in a D shape and you've got a tool.
:chaingun: :??sign: How do you know that?
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Ya I increaed it. I kept having to delete PM's because I was at 100% and a few of them I'd like to keep, so I said screw it - its not like we are going to run out of space so I knocked it up to 500.
So PM til your heart is content :D/
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*nod* I hear the clunk but it never bothers me. Sometimes its there, sometimes it isnt. Sometimes its louder than others, sometimes its barely audible. So, no you arent alone. I noticed that my clunk seemed to be less likely when I switched to the Syn blend in the bird.
20/50 is a tad thicker, so when the bike is cold or just warming up you may notice that more often than you would when the bike warms up and the oil has thinned out.
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Disconnect and reconnect the OBC to reset it. You can also check to make sure that you have a solid connection to ground, sometimes a faulty ground will yield a FI light or a "glowing" FI light.
Mine isn't FI'd so I'm not quite sure what more to say. I'm sure someone else will have some suggestions.
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So why did you have to do this with your clutch?
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Very interesting and detailed writeup, but I think the few bucks it would cost to get it done somewhere would be worth my time.
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If anything you'll see an increase due to the nature of them being less restrictive. However how much you'll see I really don't know. Will it be noticeable? Sure, but will it be tremendous? No.
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Er, sorry. I read that as radiator cap not thermo. Whoops! :oops:
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Bad thermo would cause air to get in to the system and therefore lower the boiling temperature of the water. This would result in overheating for sure, but you can usually notice if there is air in the system because after you turn the bike off you'd hear a bubbling noise like boiling water.
.. of course the radiator cap is a cheap part and never hurts to replace if you're really concerned about it.
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I was very suprised at how much of a difference going to a synthetic blend made a difference. The bike had regular 'ol oil ( motorcycle oil obviously ) in it when I first got it. After rididng it for mabye 1,000 miles we switched over to a synthetic blend (50/50) though I cant remember what kind it is at the moment.
NOTE: I -COULD- go to the garage right now and check but I'm feeling like a lazy ass, so if you really want to know then ask and ill go check!
.. but the 50/50 blend made a noticeable difference in shifts, very smooth and less clunky. Its amaizng how much a change on oil can make. As others have said, the idea is if you're going to go Synthetic switch over as soon as possible.
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If the oil light didn't come on then I don't think you're in too deep of trouble. If you were riding it with the oil light on then that might be another story. Of course its not the greatest thing that you drove it w/ low oil but as Joe said, the engine is a freakin tank. If you did anything too terrible I imagine that it wouldnt even start or barely idle. If its idling ok but then when you try and go you have issues I'm going to guess its some PGM-FI issue either be a bad battery, ground connection, harness, or computer.
.. there are lots of good threads on this, but if its going to the dealer have them figure it out. After all, thats what you pay them for! Don't fret, I'm sure your baby will be back on the road in no time!
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A bird that won't do over 95mph!!?? It's a good think we only drive +5 over the speed limit, or I'd say you have some real problems... :twisted:
... I never understood what the hell that meant until I met Carlos and he explained it to me. Quite funny once you hear the whole story, I should look up the thread sometime - unless someone has it bookmarked!
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Fuel Pump Fuse Blowing
in The Garage
Posted
Eithe the pump itself is shorting out or the harness somewhere along the way is. I'd put my money on the harness, not the pump itself.