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TechnoGecko

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Posts posted by TechnoGecko

  1. I read thru this thread again, and I must agree with Joe.

    I'd put the stock filter back on and see how it does.

    Still there, I'd pull the carbs and clean them out.

    Still there, I'm not sure what I'd do.

    If it's popping out of the carb, then I'd damn sure get that rectified.

    A stock bike shouldn't need pair system disabled, other than to clean up the top end or if the user wants to dynotune with a wideband O2 to see if the bike has lean spots. You may want one, and that's fine, but you shouldn't have a NEED for one.

    I'll still sell you a kit if you want it, but I think there may be some other issue at hand here.

    J.

    Thanks for the great advice. I just went outside to clean the bike up after the trip and I started the engine and warmed it up. Sounds as though there is a "hissing"/"sucking" sound at idle. I know it wasn't there before the trip. The bike ran great after putting in the K&N and changing the plugs in late winter/early spring. Maybe something came loose at the higher speeds/rpms on the way down. I do remember the bike running a little rough a few hours into the trip, and at a lower rpm and I thought it was the heat so I increased the idle. Since I ride with earplugs I never noticed it. I guess I'll tear into it in the next few days and see if a vacuum hose is loose, cracked, etc.

    I'll get back to you with the results. I appreciate the advice.

    Mike

    Vac hose, exahust leak, carb leak, or a PAIR system leak. I dont have a PAIR system on my bike, so I can't say for sure, but if I remember correctly PAIR pulses air to help with emissions and could cause that sound as well.

  2. My question is....its been so hot here, that in the afternoon when I check the tires I have in stock on my porch, they are already sticky.

    Does each day count as a heat cycle?

    You big baby... :icon_biggrin:

    106 here today, waddya got? hu? 80?

    It's so hot here the tires melt to the pavement if I'm not moving, gotta put it on the centerstand everywhere I park! :icon_razz:

  3. There were some internal valving changes at some point ('99, IIRC) but all years should be a direct swap as far as compatibilty is concerned, if that's what you're wondering.

    There ya go!

  4. Here are all of the available Power Commander maps available for the Honda CBR1100XX Blackbird. You can download many of the ones listed below by downloading the master file. If you have a custom map you'd like to add to the collection please send an admin a private message and I'll make sure to add it!

    Dynojet Powercommander has updated their site since this post. The link below will take you to the Powercommander download page where you can select individual maps to download, or download the self extracting zip file containing all the maps (m102-ALL).

    Download Maps

    In addition, here are some maps contributed by forum members.

    Warp11XXmap.zip '03 full Yoshimura RS3, stock air filter, PCIII

    ron_map.zip '99-'01 PCII with Scorpion slip-ons

    XXRiders_03_CBR1100xx_Map.zip '03 PCIII with Two Brothers slip-ons, K&N filter. Map is tuned for economy on the bottom end and power on the top. Between 0-5000 RPM and less than 10% TPS the map works for economy. Anything above 5000RPM or above 10% TPS it map is setup for power.

    The following is information from the Powercommander website and may not reflect the current state of availability of the respective maps.

    Power Commander 2 Maps (1999-2002)

    M102-000 - Zero Map

    M102-001 - Completely stock bike

    M102-002 - Completely stock bike with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel

    M102-003 - Full Micron "race only" exhaust

    M102-004 - Full Micron "race only" exhaust with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel

    M102-005 - Full Akrapovic exhaust and stock air filter

    M102-006 - Full Striker (Hiper Dimension EX) exhaust and stock air filter

    M102-007 - Erion Racing full exhaust and stock air filter

    M102-008 - Erion Racing full exhaust and stock air filter with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel

    M102-009 - Yoshimura RS3 full exhaust and stock or K&N air filter

    M102-010 - Yoshimura RS3 full exhaust and stock or K&N air filter with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel

    European Models Only

    M102-502 - European Model with Bos open slip-ons and stock or K&N air filter

    M102-503 - European Model with Bos open slip-ons and stock or K&N air filter with modified ignition curve. Use 98 octane or higher fuel

    M102-504 - European Model with Akrapovic full exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter

    M102-505 - European Model with Sidekick open slip-ons & Db killers with stock or aftermarket air filter

    Power Commander 3 Maps (2002-2003)

    M113-000 - Zero Map

    M113-001 - Completely stock bike

    M113-002 - Erion Racing slip-ons and stock or aftermarket air filter

    M113-003 - Two Brothers Racing full exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter

    M113-004 - Erion Racing full exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter

    M113-005 - Two Brothers Racing slip-ons and stock or aftermarket air filter

    M113-006 - Micron slip-ons and stock or aftermarket air filter

    European Models Only

    M113-501 - European model, completely stock bike with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-502 - European model, Laser "Hot Cam" slip-ons, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-503 - European model, Laser "Deep Tone" oval slip-ons, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-504 - European model, BOS ECE slip-ons, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-505 - European "German" model, BOS ECE slip-ons (without catalysts), stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-506 - European "German" model, stock exhaust (with catalytic converters), stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-507 - European model, Two Brothers slip-ons, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-508 - European model, Quill T3 Power Flow slip-ons, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-509 - European model, Akrapovic full exhaust, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-510 - European model, Leo Vince open slip-ons, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    M113-511 - European model, Yoshimura RS3 full exhaust, stock or aftermarket air filter with Dynojet O2 sensor eliminator kit

    * Also, Skull has pointed out that the California models are the same as the European models.

  5. Special thanks to Warchild for this excellent writeup!

    My Blackbird's engine, at ~60,000 miles, has been sounding like a "bag-o-marbles" for quite some time now. We had a Group Buy for the X-11 Cam Chain Tensioner (a much improved design, we are told) almost two years ago, but I never got around to installing it. Finally did so today, and the engine is silent as a tomb compared to what it was rattling like before!

    This took all of 10 minutes to do, and over half of that was removing/reinstalling the right-side cowling.

    For those that haven't replaced their's yet, here's a brief summary:

    ____________________________________________________

    Here is the X-11 Chain Chain Tension kit, comprise of the CCT itself, and the CCT gasket, which is p/n 14523-MAL-A00 on the left (gasket hidden behind cardboard packaging):

    IPB Image

    The CCT is located on the outboard right-side of the engine, slightly covered by the rear of the upper radiatior hose and coolant return line. It's held in place by two 5mm socket head bolts. Once these two bolts are removed, the old CCT lifts straight out. Here is the resultant opening, with traces of the old green gasket that I need to clean off:

    IPB Image

    Here's is the nice clean, shiny-black X-11 CCT that replaces the oem silver CCT. The X-11 CCT comes "pre-wound", with the windings held in place by a small steel "key" that you can just see inserted at the top of the CCT:

    IPB Image

    The old silver factory CCT had an 8mm bolt installed at the very top of the CCT, though I'm not sure it it had any real function other that to keep dirt/debris away from the opening. The X-11 CCT did not come with this bolt, but just in case it does serve a purpose, I decided to move it over to the X-11 version. Note small steel "key" that I just removed from the new CCT, allowing the Tensioner's "plunger" to descend as designed:

    IPB Image

    Ready to rock! CCT installed, bolts torqued, 8mm end cap in place.

    IPB Image

    HTH......

    • Downvote 1
  6. If it smells like fuel from the tailpipes it is obviously putting fuel in to the cyl's. Sounds to me like you have no spark and you're flooding the engine. Stop looking at all these other things, and see if there is a spark or not.

  7. Ah yes, the highly desired shop and parts manuals for the CBR1100XX Blackbird! Both are fairly big, so please right click on the link and pick 'Save Target As...' or 'Save Link As...' depending on what browser you are using. The parts manual is rather small, however the shop manual is very, very large. If you're on dialup be prepared for a long download, and I'd suggest using a download manager to ensure that you can resume the download in the event that it is interrupted.

    Honda CBR1100XX Service Manual / Shop Manual - 146.32Mb is listed in the following post.

    Honda CBR1100XX Genuine Honda Parts Catalog - 7.445Mb is listed in the following post.

    These two very, very handy documents have been kindly provided to us by Joe! ( rockmeupto125 )

    You'll need the latest version of Adobe Acrobat to view the PDF's, you can grab it from: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/

  8. +1 on zip ties! If you're going far distances a spare R/R is always handy. The bird and VFR use the same R/R, and both died around 25,000ish. Of course, they -always- die in the worst place. The VFR died while up in northern Arizona on a holiday Monday where there was no dealer open anywhere... The bird died oh 60 miles outside of Blythe at 1 o'clock in the morning on a Saturday.

    The way I look at it is the R/R IS going to die, so why not have a spare with you? You're going to use it eventually, so its not wasted funds.

  9. Dunno if a 05 will work or not. For the most part, anything will work as long as it provides more power than the existing one. VFR and Blackbird R/R's are interchangable without any wiring changes - they're 100% identical including the plug, so if you see a VFR (94-97) that will work too..

    Good reading: http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html

    Actually, 90-97 I believe...

    and here is one:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-VFR-7...sspagenameZWDVW

    and

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Black...sspagenameZWDVW

  10. Not that I know much, but from what I'm reading it sounds like you have shorted out the ecu. Can you short the ECU on that year?

    I ride a 2002 model FI XX, so I might be writing the biggest load of BS I don't know.

    If the ECU was shorted or dead the injectors would not fire, hence the bike would not run. The FI light only comes on if the computer tells it to, hence its working ( and the bike runs ). Sounds like a sensor is bad, or you're tripping it with a custom MAP on a PC II

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