K9XX

After riding a Bird with and without linked brakes, I'll take the linked. This is a personal preference only, but I enjoy the linked brakes. I don't race, and only have the Bird as a street bike, so I don't have to switch back and forth like others that do not like the linked setup. I've ridden a Bird with the wave discs, same diameter, and the linked setup was still funtional. It stopped better, not $500 better like it cost, but it looked really cool. And that's half the battle, right

Yes, they all fit the same. The Euro Birds have an extra light on the bottom that the state side ones do not, however. Other than that, they are the same.

Actually my neighbor has a video phone. He took about a 5 second clip of me revving it up in the garage. He said he would email it to me, then I'll post it just for you Chris :wink:

I tired it, didn't get to far :???: I made it about 3 blocks, and turned around. The noise at 6K + RPM is stupid loud. I like loud things, but this was embarassing :oops: Oh well, had fun anyway, now I can say I did it. Got up into 3rd gear, when I let off, there were a couple loud backfires, enough to spook me into turning for home. I rode just after dusk tonight, my neighbor was out when I came rolling in the drive. He said when I let off the gas as I pulled into the garage, he saw fire in each pipe :shock: Okay, enough of that, Migs are back on :grin: :grin: Now everything is so quiet :grin:

So I took the Migs off to mount the new undertail. The midpipes are fairly long, since they are high mounts. The end stops right at the passenger footpegs. I fired it up *just to hear it* and damn I love it!!!!! It sounds like some sort of race engine or something. I only ran it for 10 seconds or so then shut down. I'm thinking the Migs really don't do much more than lower the decibels a bit, I can't see how they would offer any backpressure. Is it bad to say, go for a quick ride like this?? I know there is a guy, I think in Chicago that runs straight exhaust from the headers. I want to go for a ride like this, but don't want to fry a valve or something. Not worried about Johnny Law either, I live on the outskirts of the country, so I'll go terrorize the cattle :grin: :grin: Anybody??? Thanks.

I am running Mobil 1 15/50 also. I noticed the jug says to change the oil every 3-5K miles. Kinda a big range, but I guess it should be more like 8-10K miles The suspense kills me too, I routinely change with around 2K miles, it just makes me feel better :roll: Thanks for sharing your findings!

Found this one on CD. You can print up the page you need for whatever project you are on if you don't have a greasy laptop :grin: $1.99 plus $2 shipping aint bad http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...7944854584&rd=1

These two here: Just hang the caliper up with some tie-wire or bungie or something. If you let it just hang there, you could damage the line and cause it to leak. Pads come right out, then use a C-clamp to push the piston back in nice and slow. Install new pads, and you're done! I'd recommend getting the rotors turned, especially with visible damage like that.

I say do it Mac. I bought upper end real wood flooring and there is no difference between mine and a neighbor who installed the cheap stuff. Warranty coverage is a selling point, but just like cars....they will find a way to blame it on you when it cracks, warps, etc... I would go for the $ savings. If I had done that, I would have had enough money for another bike :cry:

Could you tell the difference over the stock setting? The roll-on had a bit more snap on both settings. I think if I had access to the good octane stuff, I would have seen more with the 4 degree, but I had visions of pitting my pistons and took it off.

I originally went with the 4 degree advance, then went to a 2 degree on my 97. I noticed a knock in the higher altitudes riding up to Lake Tahoe with the 4 degree, even with 91 octane. Switched to the 3 degree and no more knocking. It was only really noticable under hard acceleration, and only for a second or two, but it was enough to spook me, so I switched back.

You can always use duct tape to make it work

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...4507129342&rd=1 Mostly word of mouth, not a lot of bird owners go too terribly bling crazy unless they do it themselves or ship their stuff off to have done. Welcome, and the caps lock is on the far left, usually just above the left shift key :wink:

:shock: :shock: WoW!! I've never heard of this trouble. Perhaps the last owner used thread lock to hold the carbs in the boots I remember mine coming out nice and easy, like too easy. Did you try putting a torch to the carb bowls yet Sorry bro, I would be the guy scratching his head while I watched you jerk on them if I was there.