[Foot Pegs]

+1 on the Buell XB-9 pegs - lowers about an inch, but feels SOOOO much more comfy... Cheap, and they take some grinding to fit, but well worth it...

search for "buell pegs" (leave the quote marks in the search form), you'll find lots more about it..

[Heated jacket, grips, AND aux. lights?????]

If my memory is right you have about 100W of extra power that isn't being used to run the bikes lights and electrical system.

LED lights will give you a bit extra but I'd still say your best bet is to not get the aux lights and save up for HID.

thing is, I bought the Hellas last summer... I could put them on the truck I guess...

Will the HID's light up the ditches better, and provide lots of light when the bike is leaned way over?? Always hated that sudden loss of light when cornering at night....

Thanks!

[Heated jacket, grips, AND aux. lights?????]

I don't NEED to run the Hellas full time, just wanted more visibility to oncoming traffic during the day and better lighting overall at night (especially when leaned over)...

If I switched off the Hellas (@ 100W total) when running the heated stuff, and still swapped to LED tail/turn/brakes, how dangerous would that be?

Guess in this case I'm asking 2 separate questions:

1) Can the bird handle 100W of auxillary lights?

2) Can the bird handle a heated liner (50W?) and grips (32W)?

I'd hate to get stranded on a cross-country ride if I could possibly avoid it... Would love to do the HID swap, but simply can't right now (student)

Thanks!

[Heated jacket, grips, AND aux. lights?????]

I'm looking to add the following mods to the bird (a 2002):

- Hella FF50 (f550??) driving lights, 50 watts each, 100 watts total http://www.rallylights.com/hella/ff050.asp

- Warm-n-Safe heated jacket liner with Heat-troller - variable wattage http://www.warmnsafe.com/

- Dual-star heated grip kit , 32 watts http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit1.htm

Also, I will be replacing the following with LEDs to conserve some electricity:

- rear tail/brake lights

- rear turn sigs

- front marker/turn sigs .

Will I have enough juice to run said farkles at normal RPM, given that the '02 supposedly has a better alternator?? :icon_pray: :icon_pray: :icon_pray:

(I will likely permanently mount a voltmeter to check while riding, just want to know if it's even feasible)...

[Shark Skinz Solo Seat Cowl]

I like it more than the stock XX tail section but it looks like a whole lot of blank real estate back there.

Maybe a small vent or even a decal would break it up a little.

I agree - a 2-tone paint job/long decals/vents would make that look a helluva lot better, IMHO... As is, the stock seat/cowl set-up actually looks better to me...

[Beemer Sportgrips, Dual-Star heaters - which throttle lock??]

Where are you guys getting the BMW grips? I need to do that this winter.

BMW dealer...

DUH :icon_duh:

They were about $20 for the pair.

Hmmm, I'm in a section of PA that's more rural than Towanda People 'round here don't even know that BMW MAKES motorsickles, LOL!

I'll have to find an online source...

[Dale Walkers Hole Shot performance]

Is anybody gonna volunteer?

er, check post 6...

Thanks, I didn't see where he wanted to be contacted, will pm him.

NP - that's one thing I'm not crazy about re: this forum set-up - No automatic way to know if someone replied to a post.. Although the search and archiving are top-notch!!

Why not go to Options ( top right of thread ) and click on track this topic then you receive an email whenever someone posts in this thread - either immediately or delayed :icon_think: or when you post tick the enable email notification of replies in post options

yep, I know - just used to the Delphi Forums where by default you get an email if someone replies "to you" in a thread (or not, if ya want, OR if ANYONE replies to said thread such as in here).. Kind of easier to carry on person-person conversation.. Not a big deal at all - just thinkin' out loud!

[Dale Walkers Hole Shot performance]

Is anybody gonna volunteer?

er, check post 6...

Thanks, I didn't see where he wanted to be contacted, will pm him.

NP - that's one thing I'm not crazy about re: this forum set-up - No automatic way to know if someone replied to a post.. Although the search and archiving are top-notch!!

Hope Dale figures something out - I know the Fizzy guys worship him!!

[Beemer Sportgrips, Dual-Star heaters - which throttle lock??]

Looking to install beemer sportgrips sometime this winter (stockers feel too small in diameter, plus added comfort might be nice), and the dual-star heaters...

http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit1.htm

2 Questions:

- If anyone is using the Sport Grips, is the dual star set-up potent enough to heat through the extra rubber of the Beemer grips?

- Which throttle lock would work best with this set-up:

Vista Cruise?

or NEP?

Thanks!!

[Dale Walkers Hole Shot performance]

Is anybody gonna volunteer?

er, check post 6...

[Flat black Birds]

Mine is done flat black. It looks awesome IMO.

If you are gonna do it yourself my only advise to you is prep prep prep. The more time you spend prepping the surfaces the less time you'll have to spend painting and the better it'll turn out. I did mine with Krylon Fusion and it looks great for the price I spent.

Hmmm, I have 4 cans of Fusion satin black sittin' in the garage for such a purpose... Any problems with wear, washing, etc? How many coats, and how long have you had it?

FWIW, pursuant to this thread I personally like the matte look a lot more than flat - less "chalky", more even, and has more depth IMHO... Flat black kinda looks a tinge greyish/brownish in bright light, while matte usually remains true black.

But to each their own!!

Needs black rims though!!

[Mileage question]

Just a brief question, I bought my 02 XX with 17K and then got the Honda dealer to do the main service, ie, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter.....

I'm now at 27k, and most likely take it in for another service around 30k.

I change my oil (honda oil) every 1200-1500 miles.....

Now, one of the honda mechanics advised me to sell my XX on before I get to about 35k because at that mileage I am looking at valve work and other things....

This has got me worried, as I DONT want to sell my pride and joy..

I had a GS1000 years ago (and got one now too) that did well over 100K with only a set of piston rings thrown in.

So, what sort of mileage am I looking at for major work on the engine? this engine is very, very quiet and runs perfect.

I've even thought about buying another engine ready to switch out when something happens..

Any advise guys?????? Phil.

cripes - at that oil change interval, you'll go WELL beyond 100K! It's a Honda - and a "Honda among Hondas" at that...

[Clutch question...]

I believe there is another adjustment under the clutch basket cover. I havn't looked myself but that is what I have been told. It should adjust where the clutch takes up. It's late here, I chase it up tomorrow.

Hope you're right... :icon_pray: I always liked a more immediate engagement when releasing the clutch lever and the cable clutches I'm used to are so damn easy to adjust.. Surely there has to be a better way for the hydraulic clutch to be fine-tuned!

But then, a broken clutch cable is the only thing that EVER left me stranded on a Honda.. Wait, it was aftermarket, never mind!

[Clutch question...]

The R1 had a cable clutch which makes adjustment easy if it's needed. Never had to do it, but it would've been easier. The XX is, I gather, a little trickier with the hydraulic clutch.

Here's the problem. The friction zone is way out near the end up the throw for the clutch lever. To the point that the bike starts to move when there's maybe 1/4 inch of lever travel left. Is there any adjustment, and if there is, what do I need to do to adjust it? Is it a lever adjustment or is it the clutch itself?

did some searching myself on this topic, as my bike has the same problem (on cable clutches, I always set them up so the friction zone was pretty immediate when releasing the lever - felt a LOT safer doing small radius turns and such in tighter areas)...

Anyway, seems that, aside from simply adjusting the clutch lever swing itself (which doesn't actually change the point of friction zone engagement), the friction zone engagement point adjusts automatically, and can likely be improved by replacing the fluid..

Anyone have any other tips, please let me know!!

[digital gas gauge...]

seems like my gas gauge is flashing the last bar pretty pessimistically as of late. I don't think I've EVER put more than 5 gallons in when it's flashing (even if it's flashed for 20-30 miles), sometimes less than 4.5 gallons...

My overall gas mileage has not changed from before, but I get the flashing "last bar" closer to 150 miles than 180 or more..

Anyone else ever have this happen?

[Turning 97 Bird into a sit-up tourer?]

re: JCW luggage pics -

Will do - just need to finish up a minor tweak and paint the bracketsthat I mentioned!!

I promise pics directly after!!!

[Turning 97 Bird into a sit-up tourer?]

A) Still looking for a something better than the stock double-bubble myself, will be looking on with interest!

I have the VFR bars, raised up 1/2" on the forks... Never, ever had back/shoulder/neck pain... Will likely drop them down soon since I've gotten quite used to the position (only been on the XX for 6 months, after only cruisers!)

C) JC Whitney sells 40 Liter hard luggage: lockable (mono-key), durable, exact rip-offs of GIVI luggage... $80 a-piece, with brackets. I bought 3, and using a drill, a bench vise and about $10 worth of flat steel, made a semi-permanent rack to mount the hard bag brackets - now I have 120 liters of storage (wonder how much a Wing has???)

I might be in the minority here, but IMHO GIVI stuff is kinda spendy for what ya get. The JCW luggage is a very valid option.

I love the fact that my bike will do 800+ miles a day (my getting tired is the only reason I pull over) like the "touring" bikes, yet run the twisties/stoplight drags/etc. with many sportbikes.

ps - for $25, Buell XB-9 pegs are another lifesaver for long-trippin' on the bird!!

[Mototech Undertail]

[attachmentid=3989][attachmentid=3990]Previously I posted a tire rubbing problem and now Mototeck is telling me they now know there is a problem and are going to make a new mold and send me one of the new virsions at no charge. If anyone out there has purcased the most curent under tail from Mototech, it will rub if you ride two up. Just thought I would put the word out.

I have the Mototeck that has the 2 round tail/brake lights, I'm thinking that it's the prior generation... Regardless, haven't installed it yet so no idea on whether it'll rub...

[One handed seat removal]

Good idea I'll have to do that one to my Blackbird when I get it.

It is the owners manual.

What's that blue thingie in the middle of the seat? The bottom of my stocker didn't have anything like that! :icon_think:

the blue thingie as you call it is the owners manual owners manual.

LOL! They know!!

Great idea, by the way! Now if I can find a way/place to put the seat so the corners of the vinyl don't get tattered after repeatedly leaning the seat on the ground against the bike!..

[Problem with kickstand]

If it's like mine was, it's the little tab on the kickstand hitting your foot, not the main stem of the kickstand itself. Grind/hack/cut/chew it off, re-paint, works fine.

[chain tools - cheap/decent quality??]

I'd planned on replacing the stock front sprocket and the chain at one time, yes... It IS starting to show (well, sound) evidence of a frozen link... FWIW, I just exceeded the "replace chain" mark at last adjustment. Ordering the new stuff tonight!

I will likely arrive at NEXXT Fri night, not sure how late...

[chain tools - cheap/decent quality??]

OK, thanks Joe - that's what I needed to know!

Yes, sliding the axle a bit past the "replace chain" marks will give me proper tension to make it to NEXXT... Sounds like a plan!

[chain tools - cheap/decent quality??]

sorry, $25...

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/item....;WT.MC_ID=80003

Like I said, I just need to press the new chain, would this or a similar tool work fine for that?

I borrowed one of the much more expensive MP breaker/presses before, it was admittedly very heavy-duty -but for $120??!??? I mean, some guys just use plain ol' Vice-Grips for the pressing portion of a chain job, LOL! (not that I believe that's a good idea!)

Anyway, guess I should change the question - would anyone NOT use the chain press I pictured/linked to?

Thanks!!

[chain tools - cheap/decent quality??]

What's a decent-priced, decently-built chain tool? I can cut/hack/torch the old chain off, so I'm only looking for something to press the side plates on when I install the new chain.

The cheapest I've seen is a little Motion Pro press for around $20 that claims it will work on 530 chains, but it looks a little chintzy...

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

[How do I figure what size resistor I need...]

I put some LED blinkers on the rear of my bike. Still have the regular bulbs in the front. Now due to the reducted resistance (I think thats right) my blinkers blink fast. I think I can just solder a resistor inline on the rear blinkers to fix it but I have no idea how to figure what I need. Is there a simple way to do that or should I just go with one of the electronic blinker boxes?

I just left mine alone - the added visual cue is one more advantage against being rear-ended by a cell-phone yakking idiot at a light...